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THE COMPLETE 

CKET-GUIDE 



TO 



EUROPE 



BY 

EDMUND C. STEDMAN 

EDITED BY 

THOMAS L. STEDMAN 



NEW YORK 

[LLIAM R. JENKINS CO. 
Sixth Ave. at 48th St. 

LONDON 

BAILLIEPtE, TIXDALL & COX 

8 Henpietta Street, Stkand 

1913 






Copyright, 1868, 1899, 1905, by William R. Jenkins 

Copyriglit, 1907, 1908, 1910, 1913 
by William R. Jenkins Company 

AU rights reserved 



PRINTED BY THE 

i Press of William R. Jenkins Co. 
^, ^ New York 

©CI.A350i41 

K^ / 



NOTE BY THE EDITORS 



'" ^IS book has been for many years before 

the public, and has been thoroughly tested 

.. increasing use among travellers through the 

-^rtions of Europe generally covered in a single 

~^ ar. It resulted from observation of the trials 
^^adergone by those equipped with the larger 
and more cumbrous handbool^s. The Pocket 
Guide was devised by Edmund Clarence Sted- 
man because he learned by personal experience 
^hat such a work was sorely needed, and no 
one else undertook this practical service, j^^e 
ends desired were : 1. Fuller and better . .r^^ged 
details of all points of interest, fai'^^ i^otels, 
currency, etc., than are given in man^* ^^g, of 
greater proportions. 2. Legible type , ^qq^ 
maps. 3. A real pocket guide, so comp:?^ j^g to 
be carried in a man's coat or hip-pocket, oi ^i^ a 
woman's shopping-bag or muff. 

The work has been carefully revised from 
year to year, and with the present revision has 
been entirely reset from new type, and new 
maps and other improvements have been added : 
the volume, however, has been rigidly kept 
within its original size. It is believed that 
the Pocket Guide is as near what it clai^^^^^^ 
be as editorial diligence can make it, a^;^ ^1^^^ 

" it now, more than ever, will add to ^|jg comfort 
of travellers from our own and o^^'^^j. Engli<?h 
speaking countries. 'jhe Editoe? ' 







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ABBREVIAIIONS. 



M. . . Mile, or miles, 
ft. ... Feet 

in Inches. 

sq. . . , . Square. 

N North, 

S. .... South. 

E East. 

W. . . . . West. 

P. Right (handX 

L Left (hand). 

rly. . . . Railway. 
Stat. . . . Station, 
eh. ... Church, 
hr. . . . . Hour, 
min.. . . Minutes. 

£ Pounds sterling. 

3. .... Shilling, or shillings 
k. . . . Krone. 



d. .... Peuhy, or penra 
fr. .... Franc, or francs. 
c . . . Cents, centimes, orcej» 
tesimi. 

fl Florin or florins. 

mk.,mks. Mark, marks, 
pf. «... Ffennige. 
kr. ... Kreutzers. 

L Lira, or lira 

r. Reales. 

Sun. . . . Sunday. 
Mon. . . Monday. 
Tues. . Tuesday. 
Wed. . . Wednesday. 
Thura. . Thursday. 
Fri. . Friday. 
Sat . . Saturday. 



The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections 
ire printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, 
of less importance, have titles in italics. 

In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous* 
events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directlv 
after, in parentheses. 

Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as 
unchallengeable facts (e. g., the presei-vation of the heads of St 
Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in 
"hese papes without comment. 



CONTEXTS. 

Pag 

Table of Moneys i 

Abbreviations iv 

A Chapter on Travel vii 

Arrangements for the Journey vii 

Steamships— The Ocean Journey ix 

Money, etc xv 

Railway Travel xvii 

Hotel Expenses, etc xxi 

Golfing — Cycling xxv 

Automobile Regulations xxvii 

Customs Regulations xxxii 

Ireland , 1 

Killarney — The Lakes 6 

Dublin 16 

Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 26 

North Wales 29 

England (Chester) 36 

Liverpool 40 

English Lake District 44 

Scotland (The Land of Burns) ". 59 

The Scottish Highlands 73 

Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 85 

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford 91 

England (Newcastle, Durham York) 103 

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 113 

Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 123 

London 141 

Excursions in Southern England 167 

Routes to the Continent 176 

Northern France 179 

Paris m 

Routes from Paris to Switzerland 2?v. 



CONTENTS. 

Page 

Belgium 225 

Brussels and Environs 229 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 232 

Holland 239 

Germany and Austria 245 

Up the Rhine by Steamer 250 

Berlin 274 

Dresden and Prague 278 

Vienna 283 

Southeastern Europe 291 

Munich and the Tyrol 298 

Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 315 

Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 323 

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva 331 

Chamounix and Mont B.lanc 337 

St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 339 

Italy (Routes into Italy) 343 

The North-Italian Cities 348 

Florence 378 

Rome 390 

Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 425 

Sicily ^ 440 

Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) 454 

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 458 

A Round Trip in Spain 463 

Portugal 495 

A Tour in the North 503 

Norway and Sweden 508 

Russia 521 

Alphabetical Table of Health Resorts 531 

Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U. S 541 

Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 546 

Travellers' Telegraphic Code 565 

Index 573 



THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROUE. 



A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

COURTEOUS READER,— When jon have laid 
aside your prejudices, donned your gar- 
ments of travel, and set your foot upon the gang- 
plank of the steamer bound for Europe, it will 
not be our fault if you discover that you have 
forgotten something. If you have bought this 
our little book, and read this preliminary chap- 
ter, you will depart for foreign lands with all 
5"our preparations properly made. You can, with 
a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this 
book before you, and by its aid plan a journey 
which, including the ocean voyages out and back, 
shall not take up more than four full months, 
and can be made with ease and enjoyment. 



AfTanffements for the Journey. 

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach 
Europe by the first of May. With a view to 
this, secure your steamship ticket very early in 
the year, and if your allowance for the trip is 
limited buy a return ticket. By so doing yo 
may save yourself some anxiety as the end' 
your journey approaches. When you ha\e 



viii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

decided on the date of your departure and the 
probable length of your absence from home, step 
into a prominent banker's in the city in which 
you reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and 
secure a Letter of Credit for a sum which you 
deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you 
are at home again. Allow a margin for con- 
tingencies. On the Letter of Credit are the 
addresses of perhaps two hundred of the lead- 
ing banking houses of Europe, and you have only 
to call on any one of these for such sums as you 
wish in the currency of the country where you 
may happen to be. The Travellers' Checks also 
afford an excellent means of carrying readily 
available funds abroad. They are accepted by 
most of the hotels and shops as freely as the 
money of the country, and are therefore found 
very useful by the tourist who may want small ; 
sums outside of banlving hours, or who may not find i 
it convenient to interrupt his sight-seeing by a call ] 
at the banker's. Buy at a broker's or at a . 
tourist agency a few dollars' worth of small i 
change of the country where you will land, for ] 
use in paying porters' fees, cab hire, etc. 

Take a Passport. Circumstances may occur in :| 
which it will be positively necessary for you to 
have one. Address a letter to the "State De- < 
partment, Passport Bureau, Washington," ask- 
ing for the printed form necessary for applica- 
tion for the document. When you get this form, 
fill it out, swear to its contents before a notary. ■ 
and send it back to the State Department, in- 
closing the government tax of $1. In due time i 
"^u will get your passport. A tourist agency will ■ 
'Vide the passport for you, if you prefer, 
ing you the trouble and charging you $3, in- 



ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY, ix 

elusive of the government tax, for its trouble. 
One is sufficient for man and wife, or man and 
family wliere there are no grown up sons or 
daughters. If a passjwrt serves for more per- 
sons than its holder, he should ask to have a 
note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- 
nied by . Passports are absolutely neces- 
sary if any one is suddenly called on to prove 
his or her identity. They are useful in securing 
admission to public buildings, private art gal- 
leries, etc. Sometimes the regulations exacting 
them are revived for a few days between two coun- 
tries, because of a diplomatic tension or im- 
broglio, and the person who has none will find 
his journey interrupted, and will suffer loss of 
money, tihie, and temper. In some European 
countries, such as Russia, they are demanded of 
all travellers, and in such cases the vise of the 
consul of the country in the port of departure is 
also required. 



Steamships. — The Ocean Journey. 

A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a 
common undertaking that most travellers make 
as brief preparation for it as if they were going 
by train from New York to Chicago. 

The choice of steamships is very large. Try to 
secure your berths some weeks in advance of 
sailing; a deposit of $2.5 is in most cases suffi- 
cient, and this you are supposed to forfeit if you 
fail to take the ship, although you may generally 
postpone your departure by giving prompt notice of 
your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special 
rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usuajiy 



xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

New York to Piraeus (Athens) 80 00 65 00 

Hamburg-American Line 

New York to Naples^ « 90 GO 65 00 

Lloyd Italiano 

New York to Naples^ ^ 65 00 

Lloyd Sabaudo 

New York to Naples'^ 70 00 

Navigazione Generale Italiana 

New York to Naples^ « 80 00 65 00 

Philadelphia to Naples^ ' 60 00 

North German Lloyd 

New York to Naples' « 90 00 65 00 

White Star Line 

New York to Naples^" 115 00 65 00 

Boston to Naples^' 85 50 

1 Calling at Cherbourg. 
3 Calling at Queenstown. 

3 Calling at Fishguard. 

4 Calling at Southampton. 

5 Calling at Plymouth and Boulogne-sur-Mer. 

6 Calling at Plymouth and Chei-bourg. 

7 Calling at Dover. 

8 Calling at Rotterdam. 

9 Calling at Christiansand and Christiania. 

10 Sailing from Portland, Me., in the winter. 

11 Calling at the Azores, Algiers, Patras, Palermo and • 

Almeria. 

12 Calling at Cadiz. 

13 Calling at Madeii-a, Gibraltar, Algiers, Monaco, Genoa, 

Alexandria. Fiume and Palermo. 

14 Calling at Genoa_and Marseilles. 

15 Calling at Providence, R.I., the Azores and Lisbon. 

16 Calling at Madeira, Gibraltar, Genoa and Palermo. 

17 Calling at Genoa. 

"8 Calling at Genoa and Palermo. 

Calling at Gibraltar, Algiers, Palermo and Genoa. 
Ti?illing at Madeira, Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa and 
Alexandria. 
Uing at the Azores, Gibraltar, Algiers and Genoa. 



BAGGAGE. xlii 

The question of Baggage for a European tour 
is very important. Our advice is to take with 
you in any case one large, stoutly built Ameri- 
can trunk, plainly marked with your name, place 
Of abode, and the initial letter of your surname 
in large size ; this is for convenience in locating 
your trunks at the customs on arrival in New 
York or other American ports. Into this trunk 
put everything that you are certain not to re- 
quire on the ocean voyage. Then pack articles 
needed for the voyage either in a roomy .valise 
or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built 
so that they will go under a berth. Take with 
you plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule 
in travelling on the Continent always to have 
overcoats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find 
them as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as 
in Scotland and North Germany. When you 
reach Liverpool, if you intend to return by that 
port, you can leave your steamer trunk stored at 
a hotel or steamship office, if you think you will 
not require it. Then have your large trunk sent 
from pomt to point where you may need it, but 
travel on all short excursions, trips of two or 
three days, etc., unencumbered by anything that 
you cannot carry in your hands. Even if a valise 
is rather voluminous, you can take it into rail- 
way carriages with you all over the Continent, 
and you will not have to pay express for it; in 
most European countries the baggage allowance is 
very small and the rates for overweight are high. 
A good portion of the equipment of a masculine 
traveller may be purchased after his arrival in 
Europe. He had better bring his American shoes 
and overcoat, but hats, linen, etc., can be bought 
to advantage in Great Britain or France. Trav- 



xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

elliiig suits for j^'eiitlemen should be modest in 
color ; black clothes are handy \A^hen one arrives 
at a fashionable watering-place or a large town, 
and evening dress is highly necessary in London 
in the season, and in long stops in other cities it 
is of course frequently required. We shall not 
venture to offer the ladies advice about what to 
wear, further than to repeat our injunction con- 
cerning plenty of wraps, and to hint that thin 
shoes should not be worn in travel. A water- 
proof .coat is extremely useful. An umbrella, 
stout enough to serve the purpose of a cane, 
should be taken. Woolen socks and thick-soled 
shoes are the things for travel. Travelling suits 
for men cost in Great Britain or France about 
one-third as much as in America. They are not 
made so well, nor of such good material as our 
own, but they are very serviceable. 

On the Steamship Voyage keep in the open air 
as much as possible. If jon suffer continuously 
from sea-sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and 
in one of the adjustable steamer chairs, to be 
rented on board, remain in recumbent posture, 
well wrapped up, but do not pass a moment of 
daylight down stairs, except when at meals or in 
very rough weather. The deck steward will 
even bring you your meals, if necessary. If the 
ship pitches violently, lie with your head toward 
the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain 
so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense 
application to books or cards. Just live, eat, and 
sleep, and when you reach land you will be amazed 
to observe how you have rested. Avoid late suppers 
Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you are 
approaching land the question of stewards' fees 
will come up. We should say give the steward 



MONEY. xr 

who waits on you at the table 10s. ; your berth- 
room steward, the same, and the deck steward 
about 5s. ; the "boots" and bath-man must be 
remembered if you have been served by them. 
But if you cannot afford so much, give less ; the 
servants expect something, but they seldom 
grumble at the amount. 

Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You 
go off in a tug, w^hich transports you up the bay 
from Roches Point (see Ireland)." Customs 
formalities same as on 

Landmg at Liverpool. — We strongly advise 
tourists to leave the steamers at Queenstow^n, if 
the steamer reaches there, and go through Ire- 
land first. Some of the Cunard steamships 
stop also at Fishguard. Most of the steamers 
now land their passengers for England at 
Plymouth or Southampton, Passengers for 
Liverpool forraerly left the steamers in tugs, and 
came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, where 
there is a custom-house, and where they were 
usually kept waiting about an hour. Now ships 
usually go into dock before discharging passen- 
gers. The custom-house officers search for cigars 
and spirits only ; if you have neither, you will 
soon have jouv "luggage" on a cab or dray, and 
be on your way to the North Western or Midland 
Railway stations, or to your hotel. 

Money — A Word of Explanation. 

In Great Britain the money is pounds, shill- 
ings, and pence (£ s. d,). In France, Belgium, 
Switzerland, Italy, and Spain there is a decimal 
currency. In the first three countries the reck- 
oning is in francs and centimes; in Italy it is in 



xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

lire and centesimi; in Spain, pesetas and cc>2f/- 
mos. But gold' coins of any of the five above- 
named countries circulate freely in all of them. 
The French twenty-franc piece and the English 
sovereign are current money anywhere in the 
Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in 
guilders and cents. There are 100 cents in a 
guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. In Ger- 
many reckoning is in marks and pfennige. The 
mark is about 24 cents gold, and there are 100 
pfennige in it. When you give one pfennig to a 
beggar, he never troubles you again. In 'Austria 
one had formerly to reckon in gulden and kreut- 
zers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our money, 
and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In that coun- 
try there is now a new system in which the unit 
is a crotcn, which is equivalent to a fraction 
over 20 cents of our money, divided into 100 
helle?- — practically the same as the French franc 
and centime. In Portugal the money is counted 
in reis, of which it takes ten to make one cent. 
In Russia ruMes and kopeks are the money. The 
gold coins most in use on the lines of travel 
which you are likely to take are sovereigns and 
half-sovereigns (English) (the guinea (21s.) no 
longer exists, although it is still used in reckon- 
ing), twenty, ten, and five franc pieces; twenty- 
mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden, Norway 
and Denmark the krone ($0,268) is the basis of 
reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or 
Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will 
lose very heavily on it. English, French, and 
German bank notes are as good as gold. The 
French have notes of fifty, one hundred, five 
hundred, and one thousand francs, and. these 
are extremely convenient to carry on the Conti- 



RAILWAYS. XYii 

ment, but they are not current in other countries. 
(See Comparative Tadle of Moneys following 
title-page. ) 

Raihvay Travel. — You will find first, second, 
and tJwd class everywhere, save upon some of 
the English railways which have no second class. 
Express trains on the Continent have no third 
class ; but in Great Britain nearly all trains have 
it. First class is best for long journeys ; second 
good enough for short ones ; and third worth 
taking now and then, particularly in England 
and Germany, for the purpose of studying the 
native people. Second class in Germany and 
Austria is almost as comfortable as first class 
in England and France. On a long journey from 
France into Germany, you may frequently take 
"a mixed" ticket with advantage, /. e. first in 
France and second in Germany. A man trav- 
elling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue 
may take third class through from London to 
Glasgow or Edinburgh, or from London to Liv- 
erpool, saving just half the sum he would ex- 
pend in first class. In England and Great Brit- 
ain, generally, people speak of "taking" a ticket 
and "booking" a place. The "booking-ofiice" is 
where the tickets are sold. The conductor i& 
called the "guard." This phraseology appears 
to have been left over from the old coaching 
days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" 
carefully. Get a label pasted on any piece that 
you propose to leave in the "luggage van," and 
when you reach your desfination, be on hand to 
claim your things. Small bags, wraps, etc., can 
always be left in a "cloak room" at any railway 
station for hours or days. Employees are civil 
and obliging, but all expect small compensation. 



xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

Do not make the mistake, either in Great Brit- 
ain or on the Continent, of giving large gratui- 
ties. In the British Islands smoking-carriages 
are provided on every train ; in France and some 
other Latin countries smoking is permissible, by 
ffeneral consent, in any carriages except those 
reserved for ladies only ; in Italy, only in smok- 
ing compartments ; in the Germanic lands smok- 
ing is wellnigh universal, although every train 
has its Damen-coupe, and its compartments fi'ir 
isHclitraucher. The coupes, or end compartments 
with windows in front — another survival of 
diligence and coach customs, may be hired at 
reasonable charges above the first class fares, 
and should generally be engaged beforehand at 
the station. In France and Middle Europe gen- 
erally the tariff is about 16 francs per seat per 
thousand kilometres. A party of four, going 
through from Paris to Cologne, or coming from 
Nice to Paris, will find a coup^ worth taking. Do 
not trust too implicitly to information furnished 
by railroad and steamship officials, for it may 
be misleading. Among R. R. guide books. "Brad- 
shaw." price (>d., is the most compact for Great 
Britain; the Chaix "Guide des Chemins de Fer 
de TEurope"' will do for the Continent. It con- 
tains all that may be found in the local guides 
published in Germany, Switzerland, etc., costs 
only 40 cents, and is corrected several times 
yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, 
from which you can gain very clear ideas of the 
location of the lines along which you travel. On 
excursions, remember that return tickets can 
generally be had at a discount from the regular 
fares. Return tickets are usually available only 
on the day on which they are sold, and by the 



RAILWAYS. xix 

first train of the next. Saturday tickets, how- 
ever, generally extend until the first Monday 
train. On the Continent the terms for returns 
are much more liberal than in Great Britain. 
"Circular tickets'" are issued in nearly all coun- 
tries, and ample information concerning them 
is given at railway stations, hotels, banks, and in 
the newspapers. There is usually a saving 
(there is certainly great convenience) in buying 
these circular tickets, especially to those who, for 
example, wish to go from Paris to Switzerland, 
and after visiting that country to return directly 
to France. There is a great variety of excursion 
tickets and hotel-couiwn arrangements, by which 
inexperienced travellers, or those who do not 
care to explore their own routes may be aided in 
travelling, passing all over the Continent and the 
Levant under efficient chaperonage. There are 
sleeping-cars on many English and Continental 
lines. Between Paris and Vienna, Paris and 
Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and 
often Rome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, 
etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The 
Russian cars are larger and more elegant than 
the other Continental ones ; and in Russia and 
Switzerland a modified American railway-car- 
riage, in which, however, class distinctions are 
kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage car- 
ried free in France. Spain, and Sweden is 60 
pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hungary, 
Holland and Russia, .55 pounds ; in Great Brit- 
ain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany, 
Belgium, Italy, and Switzerland, there is no fi-ee 
I'.aggage. but the rates are not extravagant. In 
some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have 
been great complaints that baggage has been 



XX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

plundered in transit by baggage-masters and 
trainmen ; hence the necessity for first-rate locks 
already mentioned. Parcels, and baggage when 
forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. 
Indeed, the railway companies generally insist 
on this, and refuse articles which appear to be 
insecurely fastened. In all Continental coun- 
tries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is 
given you, and the number on it corresponds to 
that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if 
there is no excess of weight, you must have a re- 
ceipt. In some cases, in going from an im- 
portant city in one country to an important city 
in another, your baggage can be "registered 
through," and examined when it reaches its 
destination ; in others, although registered 
through, it must be examined at the frontier. 
The examination is a pure formality almost 
everywhere. In vexatious cases nothing is 
gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees 
to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet 
with prompt return in civility and privilege. At 
all German and Swiss railway depots, apply to 
the portier for information. In Italy the rail- 
way facchini are paid according to tariff — i 
soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, 
and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In 
Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 
soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scot- 
land, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not 
always very good; in other countries they are 
excellent. On long journeys carry your own 
basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where 
fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open 
air markets for a song, but in hotels are held 
very dear. In Italy and Russia a window on 



HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi 

the windward side of a railway carriage can- 
not be kept open if any person in the compart- 
ment objects. 

Hotel Expenses 

must naturally vary much according to taste 
and income of the traveller. Our lists of hotels 
are carefully selected, and we believe that the 
houses recommended will be found satisfactory. 
Great Britain is an expensive country by com- 
parison with Switzerland or Italy ; in Germany 
cities are expensive, small towns and country 
cheap. The American will notice with some sur- 
prise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no 
longer much if any cheaper than in America. 
To live even carefully at a first-class hotel in any 
part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or 
four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as 
follows: Breakfast, from two and six (two shil- 
lings and sixpence) to three and six ; lunch, 
about same price; dinner, without wine, five 
shillings ; room, from four and six to eight and 
six, and one and six for attendance. Wines are 
as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United 
States. There are, how^ever, good hotels, where 
you may live at about ten shillings daily ; and 
private boarding-houses in the large cities where 
it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — 
rarely under ten. A person very economically 
inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, 
but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you 
may calculate that if you reach a hotel at night- 
fall, dine or sup and' sleep, and take early break- 
fast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. 
For a stay of some days you may manage not to 



xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

spend more than from ten to fourteen francs 
daily. In large capitals, simply take room at 
your hotel, and your first meal there. The 
others can be had to suit your purse and con- 
venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzer- 
land, and some parts of Italy, the tables dlidte 
are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want 
a cheap room in a hotel, say so ; there is no 
surprise at economy in Europe. Travellers 
should carry their own soap and toilet paj^er, 
though in most hotels of the first class, and even 
second, these are now usually furnished. Wash- 
ing can usually be done within 24 hours in all 
countries. When you buy a parcel and order it 
sent to your room, give the number of the cham- 
ber as well as your name. Fee the portier 
at Continental hotels; he will be useful. Give 
one of your dining-room waiters something, 
but give to only one. Never mind the head 
waiter's sardonic frown. In France you will 
save money by taking your meals at the hours 
when the natives take theirs ; out of hours 
you pay special prices. By asking for ice- 
water, you can now get it almost every- 
where. In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, 
and dilute them with water, except at evening. 
The vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in 
all countries. Examine your bills, and don't 
allow overcharges. The omnibus from the 
station is generally charged in your bill. The 
baggage porter expects small fee when you go 
away. Insist on having your bill when you ask 
for it. You will find English spoken in almost 
all hotels. You can always post letters and gen- 
erally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in 
some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap 



CAUTIONS. xxiii 

in nearly all European countries. Before leaving 
America tell your friends to write to you, care 
of your bankers in London or Paris ; if you keep 
your bankers advised of your address you will 
never miss a mail. Register your name at the 
London and Paris offices of your banker's ; and 
you may thus find friends or acquaintances who 
happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris, you 
will find the larger bankers well provided with 
post-ofiices, reading-rooms, and information about 
travel. If you need a courier (but you really do 
not), ask your banker or landlord for the. 
address of one. Couriers are expensive lux- 
uries. 

We think all necessary information about cabs 
will be found in the text of the volume. Dili- 
gences are to be avoided as much as possible. In 
some places they are, however, indispensable. 
On steamboats on lakes and streams you may 
usually take free about twice as much baggage 
as by rail. Always make your bargains before- 
hand for private carriages. 

A few cautions as to small matters may not be 
out of place. Should you go shopping on the 
Continent, especially in France, Belgium, Swit- 
zerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from 
your inspection of an article in the windows 
whether you want it or not. The window is 
really the shop; everything is plainly marked, 
and if you go in and come out again without 
buying, the shopkeeper often considers that you 
have made him waste his time, and may not con- 
ceal his disappointment from you. Should you 
take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect 
the inventory made of them befort you move in. 
Do not violate any regulations, municipal or gen- 



xxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

eral, however trivial and useless they may seem, 
for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats 
at the theatres at least 24 hours before you in- 
tend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. 
After climbing a Swiss mountain pass, be care- 
ful not to take cold ; imprudence m the moun- 
tains often ruins a whole summer. Wraps must 
be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, 
especially in Italy, even in summer. In passing 
from sunshine to shade, gather your garments 
about you, and avoid chills. If you go to a poste 
rest ante (general aelivery post-office), present 
"^your name plainly written or printed on a card. 
In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way 
districts, do not lose your temper if the local 
officials are a little curious about your move- 
ments. In case of sudden illness in France, 
Italy, or Switzerland, call an American or Eng- 
lish physician, if you can find one. Failing that, 
a local physician who has had practice among 
foreigners is better than one who has not. 

Language is not so great a barrier to communi- 
cation as is imagined. If you get into a corner 
of Europe where no tongue that you can speak 
is understood, use English just as if the people 
knew what it meant, and make signs. You will 
get on famously. The little list of phrases at 
the end of this volume may be found an aid to 
those who have some familiarity with those lan- 
guages most spoken in Europe. On general prin- 
ciples, however, it is better to use what little 
you know of a foreign language than to seek in- 
terpreters. You will be presumed to know more 
than you express, and you will make better bar- 
gains. 

Go to the United States' Consul for information 



GOLFING.— CYCLING. xxv 

when you are really in doubt and need advice; 
but do not trespass on his time unnecessarily, 
for if he has an important office and attends to 
it, he has little time for strangers who come 
without a business reason for their call. 

Golfing. 

The opportunities for golf on the Continent 
have greatly increased during the past few years, 
many of the hotels in the resorts largely pa- 
tronized by English and Americans having had 
links laid out. Golf clubs having more or less 
desirable courses have been established in the 
following places, among others : — Belgium — Ant- 
werp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France 
— Aix-les-Bains, Arcachon, Argeles, Beaulieu- 
sur-Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, 
Dieppe, Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, 
Paris, Pau, St. Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite 
(Pornichet Station) ; Germany — Baden-Baden, 
Berlin, Bremen, Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; 
Gibraltar; Holland — Arnheim. Doom, Haarlem, 
Hague, Hilversum, Leenwarden ; Italy — Como, 
Florence, Rome, San Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, 
Varese ; Portugal — Oporto ; Russia — Moscow, St. 
Petersburg ; Su'eden — Gothenburg ; Switzerland 
— Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden. 

Cycling. 

The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the 
Continent are those due to the customs regula- 
tions in the different countries. At nearly every 
frontier the tourist is obliged to pay the regular 



xxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

duty imposed upon wheels imported for sale, but 
on leaving the country this duty is refunded. 
The following is the deposit required in each 
country, the amount in each case being reduced 
to its American equivalent : Austria, $10 ; the 
tourist must swear to a declaration that he in- 
tends to remain only temporarily in the coun- 
try, and that his wheel is not for sale ; on leav- 
ing the country the deposit will be refunded ; 
Belgium, 12 per cent, ad valorem ; if intending to 
leave the country by rail, the tourist must write 
in advance to the custom-house official at the 
frontier, enclosing receipt and stating on what 
train he will pass through ; the money will then 
be refunded when the frontier is reached. Den- 
iiiark, 10 per cent, ad valorem ; special permit 
must be obtained if tourist intends to leave 
through another custom house ; a lead seal must 
be attached to the wheel as a receipt. England. 
free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead seal 
is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the 
tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, 
free for tourists; in this country bicycles will 
not be taken on the express trains. Holland, free 
for tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per 
pound. Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem ; a seal 
required as in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and 
permit required as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per 
pound; and in addition the tourist must obtain 
a special pass good for six months, for which 20 
cents is charged ; the frontier officials are some- 
times exacting, and it may be wise to secure the 
services of a custom-house broker. Sweden and 
Norivag, 25 to 30 kr. respectively ; if the 
tourist intends to enter the country through any 
but the principal custom houses he must obtain 



AUTOMOBILING. xxvii 

a permit from the Director General of Customs, 
and he must leave the country by the same route 
that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if 
he remains over sixty days ; Sivitzerland, 6c. 
per lb. 

Any American wheelman intending to tour on 
the Continent, if he is not already a member of 
the L. A. W., should join that organization, as 
it gives him many privileges. The governments 
of Italy, Belgium, and Switzerland now permit 
touring members of the L. A. W. to pass their 
respective frontiers without making a deposit. 
There is also an alliance between the League and 
the Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain, 
whereby a member of one may be admitted to 
temporary membership in the other without 
extra fee. The Touring Club de France may also 
be joined by League members at slight expense, 
and with membership in those tw^o clubs one 
obtains road books free, reduction in rates at 
hotels, and many other advantages. 

The wheel should be provided with a brake, 
a bell or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed 
for the steamship very strongly and not merely 
crated ; a bicycle trunk, though expensive, is ad- 
visable. There is a charge for freight on most 
lines. If the tourist has the precaution to take 
a second chain and extra nuts, together with a 
serviceable repair kit, he may be spared much 
vexation and loss of time and money. 

Automobile Regulations. 

The steamship companies insist that automo- 
biles be crated before being accepted for trans- 
portation to or from Europe. The expense of 



xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

this is about $100, but the box can be stored 
with the steamship company or the forwarding 
company and used for the return voyage. The 
channel steamers between Great Britain and the 
Continent have every facility for carrying un- 
crated cars without risk. The motoring tourist 
should always have with him a passport, an offi- 
cial certificate of his ability as a driver, and a 
maker's certificate giving date of sale, value, 
weight, type of car, capacity, etc. It will be to 
his advantage in many ways to become a mem- 
ber of the Touring Club of France. This club, 
the American Automobile Association, and the 
Automobile Club of America issue a sort of pass- 
port, called a "triptyque ;'' this in general ad- 
mits the bearer to a country without paying dut:*^ 
on his car, the triptyque being a certificate that 
the duty will be paid if the traveller remains in 
the country beyond the designated time. Much 
trouble will be avoided by Americans if they 
will take their local permits and licenses with 
certified attestations from the consular author- 
ities of the particular countries they intend to 
tour. The owner should also carry a number 
of small photographs of himself and his chauf- 
feur, as they are often required to be attached 
for purposes of identification to the permits in 
the various countries. The following is a synopsis 
of the custom house rules and police regulations 
in the most frequented countries of Europe : 

France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs 
for each 100 kilogrammes, if the car weighs 
more than 125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 
francs if it weighs less than this. The amount 
must be deposited on entering the country, and 



AUTOMOBILING. xxix 

will be refunded when leaving the country 
(within six months) on presentation of the de- 
posit receipt at the frontier. The speed limit is 
thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the coun- 
try, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages; 
in narrow roads or streets the car must not ex- 
ceed the speed of a man walking. These rules 
are not strictly enforced if the car seems to be 
under complete control. At night a white and a 
green light must be displayed in front. 

Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is 
seldom demanded if the driver has a passport 
and can prove that the car has been in his pos- 
session a reasonable time. The amount paid will 
be refunded when the car leaves the country. 
The regulations vary in different towns and parts 
of the empire; in many places certain streets 
are forbidden to automobiles, and in one little 
principality at least the entrance of motor cars 
into the capital is not allowed when the ruler 
is "in residence." 

Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, 
repayable on leaving the country : it is seldom 
exacted unless the car is manifestly new. The 
speed limit is 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) 
in the country, 8 kilometres (5 miles) in villages, 
over bridges, down hill, at night, and in foggy 
weather. A permit must be obtained from the 
Secretary of Public Works and must be counter- 
signed at the custom house ; blank permits may 
be had from the Netherlands Automobile Club, 
The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden (50 cts.). 
Every car must carry two lights and a horn or 
bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet. 

Belgium. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, 
repayable at the frontier when leaving the coun- 



XXX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

try, is required. Lamps and horns are required, 
cars must proceed slowly in towns and when 
crossing bridges, and in all cases must be under 
control and must not exceed a reasonable speed. 

Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty 
on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are 
required and a reasonable speed must not be 
exceeded. To avoid accidents the driver must 
observe tne rule of the road and pass to the left 
instead of the right. 

Switzerland, — The duty is 20 francs per 100 
kilogrammes, repayable when leaving the coun- 
try. Each car must carry a white and a green 
light in front and a red" light behind, a good 
horn, and two brakes, each one capable of stop- 
ping the car w^ithin two metres (33 feet) on a 
decline or when running at full legal speed. The 
speed must not exceed 30 kilometres (about 19 
miles) in the country, 10 kilometres (61 miles) 
in cities and towns or on mountain roads, and 
6 kilometres (3f miles) on bridges, in narrow 
streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. 
The car must stop when meeting a horse that 
appears frightened or when a government stage- 
coach is met. There are a number of other regu- 
lations, some of them vexatious and unreason- 
able. Indeed, automobiles are unpopular in 
Switzerland, and in case of accident, no matter 
where the blame lies, the motor driver is usually 
held accountable. A permit is necessary unless 
the owner has one from his own government and 
that government is one which reciprocates in this 
respect with Switzerland. 

Austria.— The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) 
for the car and 18 kr. ($3.50) for every 100 kilo- 
grammes (220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This 



AUTOMOBILIXG. xxxi 

sum is refunded when the owner leaves Austrian 
territory. 

Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) 
for a car weighing up to 50O kilos (1.200 lbs.) 
to 600 lire ($115.80) for one weighing over 1,000 
kilos (2.400 lbs.) The amount will be refunded 
on leaving the country within six months. The 
driver must obtain a permit within ifive days, 
either on the basis of reciprocity, if that exists 
with the country granting his original license, 
or after proving to the authorities by actual test 
that he is a competent driver. 

Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red 
tape to unravel in order to drive a motor car into 
Russia. A special permit must be obtained from 
the Secretary of Finance, and one who gets the 
permit within a week of his application is to be 
congratulated. The application for the permit, 
which must be made on stamped paper (SO 
kopeks, about 40 cents), must state how long 
the driver expects to be in Russia, at what town 
the car will enter, and from what town it will 
leave the country. The duty paid will be re- 
funded some time or other, but usually not until 
some weeks after the car has left the country. 

Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving 
the country. The speed laws are not irksome. 

Denmark. — No duty is required if the owner 
makes declaration that he is touring and intends 
to make only a temporary stay in the country. 

Reimportation into the United States. — The 
regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department 
provide that the owner of an automobile of for- 
eign manufacture on which duties have been 
paid may, after its identification and the issue 
of a certificate by customs officers on his appli- 



xxxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

cation, take it abroad for touring purposes, with 
the right of free entry on its return with him 
or within thirty days after him, provided that 
no repairs, improvements, or additions were made 
to the automobile, except absolutely necessary 
repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of the 
original appraised value. Cars of American 
manufacture will be admitted on their return 
free of duty, provided that they shall not have 
been advanced in value or improved in condition, 
and that all repairs made thereto were absolutely 
necessary and did not cost more than 10 per 
cent, of the original price of the car; and pro- 
vided further that it shall be shown that the 
accessories are those taken abroad under the cer- 
tificate. 

Customs Regulations. 

All persons on their arrival in the United 
States are required to make a declaration of 
dutiable articles obtained by them abroad. The 
declaration will be verified on the pier by careful 
examination of the contents of the packages. 

The senior member of a family may include 
all the members thereof in his or her declara- 
tion. State the exact number of pieces of bag- 
gage in which your effects are contained. Give 
the cost of foreign value of each dutiable article. 
As far as practicable, keep your original re- 
ceipted bills for all purchases of any importance 
during your stay abroad. 

When packing your baggage for your return 
trip it would be well to prepare a list of articles 
so purchased, with the prices paid for each. If 
these articles are so placed in your trunks that 
you can easily find and exhibit them for ap- 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxxiii 

praisement, much time and inconvenience will 
be saved. 

Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars 
or three hundred crgarettes for his own use. All 
cigars and cigarettes in excess of this number 
and less than three thousand are liable to 
seizure, but in meritorious cases may be released 
by the payment of a fine equal to the .duty and 
the internal revenue tax. 

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market 
values at the time of exportation with due 
allowance for wear or depreciation. A failure 
to declare dutiable articles in your possession 
will render the same liable to seizure and con- 
fiscation and you to criminal prosecution. 

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the 
values placed upon dutiable articles, they have 
the privilege to demand a reexamination, but 
application therefor should be immediately made 
to the deputy collector at the pier. If, for any 
reason, this is impracticable, the packages con- 
taining the articles should be left in customs 
custody and application for reappraisement made 
to the collector at the custom house in writing 
within two days after the original appraisement. 
No request for reappraisement can be enter- 
tained after the articles have been removed from 
customs custody. 

Baggage intended for delivery at another port 
may be forwarded thereto upon application, 
without the assessment of duty at the port of 
arrival. Any baggage or personal effects in 
transit through the United States to any foreign 
country may on application be forwarded to the 
port of departure. The officer taking your dec- 
laration will advise you on this point. Repre- 



xxxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

sentatives of various railroads and express com- 
panies will be found on the pier and will take 
charge of your baggage and forward it to des- 
tination if desired. 

Government officers are forbidden by law to 
accept anything but currency in payment of du- 
ties, but if requested will retain baggage on the 
pier for .twenty-four hours to enable the owner 
to secure the currency. 

It is unlawful for customs officers to receive 
any "tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a 
violation of law. 

Passengers are requested promptly to report 
to the Secretary of the Treasury, the collector 
at the custom house or the deputy collector 
at the pier any discourtesy or incivility on the 
part of customs officers. 

A resident of the United States returning 
thereto is entitled to bring with him, free of 
dut>', personal effects taken abroad by him as 
baggage, provided they have not been remodelled 
or improved abroad so as to increase their value, 
and, in addition thereto, personal property pur- 
chased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a total 
value not exceeding $100. The exempt articles 
(if under $100 in value) include clothing, toilet 
articles, personal adornments, jewelry, &c., 
cameras, canes, fishing tackle, glasses (field, 
opera, marine), golf sticks, guns, musical instru- 
ments, parasols, photographs, smoker's articles, 
steamer rugs and shawls, toys, trunks, valises. &c. 

(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision 
as a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are 
instructed to inquire into the bona fides of the 
journey and the actual ownership of the goods. 
Either the presence of an unusual amount of any 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxxv 

class of highly dutiable merchandise or frequent 
and hasty journeys is sufficient to raise the pre- 
sumption of bad faith. Such cases will be sub- 
ject to most careful scrutiny and prosecution.) 

All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt 
from duty or otherwise, should be declared, and 
the allowance of $100 for articles obtained abroad 
will be made by the deputy collector upon the 
pier. 

Non-residents of the United States are entitled 
to bring with them as baggage free of duty all 
wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, 
toilet articles and similar personal effects in 
actual use and necessary and appropriate for the 
wear and use of such persons and their present 
comfort and convenience, not intended for other 
persons or for sale. 

Non-residents for the purpose of customs ad- 
ministration are divided into three classes : 

First — Actual residents of other countries. 

Second — Persons who have been abroad for the 
purpose of study, restoration of health, or for 
other specific objects, and have had a fixed for- 
eign abode for one year or more. 

Third — Persons who have been abroad for two 
years or more for any purpose whatever, and 
who have had during that time a fixed place of 
abode for one year or more. 

Household effects of persons or families from 
foreign countries will be admitted free of duty 
if actually used abroad by them not less than 
one year, and not intended for any other person 
or for sale. 

The law expressly forbids the importation into 
the United States of garments made in whole 
or in part of the skins of prohibited fur seals, 



xxxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

and unless the owner is able to establish by com- 
petent evidence and to the satisfaction of the 
Collector either that the garments were pur- 
chased prior to December 29, 1897, or that the 
animals from which the skins were taken were 
captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, 
entry will not be allowed. 

Residents' who desire to take sealskin gar- 
ments abroad may have the same registered 
with the Collector. 




Map of 
GREAT BRITAIN 

IRELAND 







THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE 



IRELAND. 

THE majority of American visitors to Europe 
go first to Great Britain, leaving a tour 
through the picturesque and interesting island 
of Ireland among the possibilities of the last 
days of their pilgrimage. Our own impression 
is that those who go abroad as early as May or 
June would do better to land at Queenstown, if 
their ships stop there, and make a brief trip 
through the Emerald Isle, and quitting it either 
via Belfast for Glasgow, or via Dublin and 
Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holy- 
head in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead to 
Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the 
English Lake District, or to London, as best 
suits their humor. Thousands of persons return 
to the United States without having set foot in 
Ireland. They intended to go there ; but after 
their long season of travel on the Continent they 
get back to London somewhat wearied, as well 
as economically inclined, and the result is that 
they hasten to take ship for home, seeing naught 
of Ireland but the bold lines of its coast and the 
round towers which cap its highest cliffs ; and 
on most of the steamer routes not even that. 



2 IRELAND. Queenstown. 

Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our 
object is to show the tourist how he may spend 
those days to advantage in that country. Many 
of the steamships of the Cunard and White Star 
lines call at Queenstown, coming from and going 
to New York, Boston, and other iwrts. Tugboats 
speedily convey passengers with their baggage 
from Roches Point, where the steamers stop, up 
to the town proi>er ; and the noble port with its 
green water, the verdant hills crowned with 
handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- 
tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of 
which white villas peep, form a picture doubly 
pleasing to the eye of the visitor, after he has 
for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and 
the ship that brought him over. 

Queenstown (Queen's Hotel; Royal; Beach) 
is on Great Island, which lies in the magnifi- 
cent bay or arm of the sea into which the river 
Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly 
called the "Cove of Cork," and received its pres- 
ent name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. 
It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to 
the shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine 
Protestant church, and about 8,000 inhabitants. 
Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the ex- 
treme mildness of its climate. Rev. Charles 
Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the burial 
of Sir John Moore, died here in 1823, and is 
buried on the island. The immense harbor of 
Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the com- 
bined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 
square M. in area, is well defended by forts on 
either sice the channel of entrance. On f^piJc 
Island is Fort Westmoreland, commanding en 
trance to harbor. Hawl'boicline Island contains 



IRELAND. CoEK. 3 

ordnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island 
is a powder magazine, with huge chambers 
quarried out of the solid rocli. It was into Corli 
Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Dralie re- 
treated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pur- 
suing him. He succeeded in hiding his ships 
so effectually at a spot known to this day as 
Drake's Pool, that the superstitious Spaniards 
attributed the disappearance to magic. 

There are three routes from Queenstown to 
Cork: by rail all the way (Is. 2d., or 6d.) ; by 
steamer to Passage and thence by rail (fares 
same as above) ; or by steamer up the river di- 
rect to Patrick's Bridge. "It would be difficult," 
wrote Sir John Forbes, "to overpraise the beauty 
of the river from Cork to Queenstown, or the 
magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it 
terminates, more especially when these are seen 
under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant 
sky." At Monkstoicn, at a point where the river • 
Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in 
ruins. 

Cork (Imjjerial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Met- 
ropoZe, temperance), the "capital of the South," 
has a population of 100,000. It is situated on 
both banks of the river Lee, which is crossed 
by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork 
signifies "a swamp," and well describes the loca- 
tion of the towm. The Grand Parade, the South 
Mall, Great George's-St., Mardyke, and St. Pat- 
rick's-St., on which stands a statue of Father 
Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen's 
College, a handsome quadrangular structure in 
Tudor-Gothic style, is situated on a small hill 
near the S. fork of the stream. St. Ann's Ch. 
is the most interesting edifice in Cork. It con- 



4 IRELAND. Cork. — Blarney Castle. 

tains the "bells of Shandon," of which Father 
Prout sang so melodiously. This church was built 
in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of 
which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, 
is 120 feet high, and constructed of hewn stone 
from a Franciscan abbey where James II. had 
once heard mass, and from the ruins of a castle 
which had been the official residence of the lords- 
president of Munster. The Ch. of the Holy 
Trinity, founded by Father Mathew, who began 
his career as an aix)stle of temperance in Cork, 
is worthy a visit ; and so is the modern Prot- 
estant Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. This saint 
founded a monastery on the site of a heathen 
temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading 
Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town 
with walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken 
away at the close of the 15th century, because 
it had received Perkin Warbeck, the impostor 
king, with royal honors. The charter was re- 
stored in 1609. Cromwell's cruelties in Cork, 
in the War of the Protectorate, are still related 
by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder 
of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism 
in Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching 
of one Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to 
Henry II. in the 12th century by Dermot 
M'Carthy, Prince of Desmond; but the English 
invaders were harassed for centuries by petty 
Irish chieftains, and the sentiment of inde- 
pendent Irish nationality seems even nowadays 
conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The 
lovelj' Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on 
the way to Blarney Castle. 

Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by 
rail in 16 minutes. But the best plan is to take 



IRELAND. Blarney Stone. 5 

a jaunting-car (about 3s. there and back) by 
the road on the N. bank of the river. The dis- 
tance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy built the mas- 
sive donjon tower. 120 feet high, and the lower 
portion, in the 15th century : and the famous 
Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription, Cor- 
mach MacCarthy fortis mi fieri fecit A. D. 1446, 
now illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a 
projecting buttress at the top of the castle, at 
the N. angle, several feet below the level of the 
wall, so that the person who wished to kiss it 
had to hold on to the bars, and project his body 
forward in most risky fashion. Another stone, 
marked "1703," stands within the tower in a 
place where it is quite accessible to kisses. "The 
Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist 
of Ireland, "had long been a byword among the 
Irish : it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the 
glib tongues of the natives of this locality were 
supposed to be not the ordinary gift of Nature. 
But it had not reached its full zenith of talis- 
manic power until 1799, when Milliken wrote 
his well-known song of 'The Groves of Blar- 
ney.' A curious tradition attributes to the stone 
the power of endowing whoever kisses it with 
the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so 
perceptible in the language of the Cork people, 
and which is usually termed Blarney.''' There is 
an old story about Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet 
of water, I M. from the castle. It is said that 
the Earl of Clancarty, who forfeited the prop- 
erty at the Revolution, sank all his family plate 
in a certain part of this lake; that three of the 
M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place where 
the treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, 
communicates it to another of the family, and 



6 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney. 

thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be 
made public until a M'Carthy is again Lord of 
Blarney. 

Other Excursions from Cork. — To RostcUan 
Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer 
to Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an 
ancient sword said to have belonged to Brian 
Boroihme, the ancestor of the O'Briens. At 
Cloyne there is a 14th century cathedral and a 
noted "round tower." — To Youghal and the 
Blackivater. This excursion may be made in a 
single day by taking an early train from Cork 
to Youghal (28 M.), whence a steamer up the 
beautiful Black water River to Cappoquin, above 
which point the stream is not navigable. At 
Youghal (Green Park: Devonshire Aj'jus) is the 
"Warden's House," the residence of Sir Walter 
Raleigh in 1588-89. It was there that he enter- 
tained Spenser when the poet was preparing his 
"Faerie Queene" for publication. It was also in 
Youghal that the first potato was planted in 
Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the trav- 
eller may take the mail (jaunting-car) to 
Lismore, one of the most ancient towns in Ire- 
land, twice daily (Sundays excepted). Castle 
of the Duke of Devonshire, on the site of the old 
University ; visitors admitted. From Lismore 
the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; 
from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min. : and from 
Mallow he may return to Cork, reaching there 
in the evening, or may go to Killarney. 

Killarney, The Lakes, and Lake Region. 

The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney 
by rail, via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 
68f M. (lis. 6d., 8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the 



IRELAND. Lakes of Killakney. 7 

shortest, but the least interesting route. For 
those pressed for time, it is the best. By leav- 
ing Cork late in the afternoon one may reach 
Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, 
starting early on the following morning, may 
visit the most attractive points in the region, 
getting back to Mallow Junction in time to take 
a night train for Dublin. But those who are 
making a more leisurely tour will find them- 
selves well repaid for taking either of the two 
routes via Glengariff. One of these leads from 
Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, 
and thence by coach to Glengariff. {Roche's 
Hotel; Eccles'), thence to Kenmare {Lansdowne 
Arms), and so on through a barren and wild, 
but picturesque country, across the mountains, 
and down to Killarney. The most extensive view 
of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, and rich 
with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from 
Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. 
The beautiful grounds around Glengariff Cattle 
are worth a visit. From Glengariff the journey 
may be extended to Bantry Bay either by land 
or water. The latter way is preferable, affording 
an excellent view of the bold coast scenery. But 
we would recommend none of these excursions 
to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely 
favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish 
wet day by the sea. The route from Cork to 
Macroom by rail, 24 M., and thence by jaunting- 
car to Glengariff, Kenmare, and Killarney, is 
highly spoken of by travellers who have taken 
it. Both these above-mentioned ways require 
two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will take 
another half-day. In summer a coach runs from 
Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass 



8 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney. 

through the most interesting places. (Fare by 
this coach, 19s.) Macroom is the place where 
the Irish Bards held their meetings, and a fine 
ivy-mantled castle may be seen there. In the 
vicinity of Kenmare there are many lovely 
views; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by 
some considered the most beautiful on the Irish 
coast. 

Killarney {Royal Victoria Hotel; Great South- 
em Railway; Lake; Muckross), population 
5,000, lies about 1^ miles from the N. E. margin 
of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. It pos- 
sesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a 
nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls 
are educated. The hotels generally command 
very good views of the lake and the mountains. 
The town is renowned for its beggars ; and for 
the artifice of the peasantry in extorting six- 
pences from travellers, in return for some trifiing 
and entirely superfluous service. Two days are 
required properly to see the lakes, the Gap of 
Dunloe, Muckross Abbey, and the Tore Cascade ; 
but if only one day can be given, the best plan 
is to engage a pony and ride from Killarney 
through the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the 
Upper Lake, having previously ordered a boat 
to be in readiness at Lord Brandon's Cottage 
on that lake. It is 15 M. from Killarney to this 
cottage, and many may prefer to walk rather 
than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they 
can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes 
afterwards. Arrangements for horses, boats, 
etc., can usually be made at the hotels. The 
tariff is established by local lav/, and there is no 
occasion to give more. 



IRELAND. Lakes of Killakxey. 9 

The first object t)f interest on the road from 
Killarney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county 
lunatic asylum, and the next is the old ruin of 
Aghadoe, 2i M. from the town. All that remains 
of the once celebrated castle is a fragment of a 
tower. Near by is a church, consisting of two 
distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying E. 
and W. of each other. The W. chapel is in the 
Romanesque style, and was under the patronage 
of St. Finian. The E. chapel dates from 1158, 
is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to 
the Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country- 
houses on the road beyond Aghadoe. LaJce View 
House, on the 1., was the residence of a brother of 
the great O'Conneil ; Beaufort House is attrac- 
tive ; and Dunloe Castle, also on the 1., is cele- 
brated as having been one of the residences of 
the powerful O' Sullivan Mor. The present pro- 
prietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. from 
the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe 
(in a field not far from the road). This cavern 
was opened in 1838 by some laborers digging a 
ditch, and was found to be roofed with impost 
stones, in the angles of which were inscriptions 
in the ancient Ogham character, supposed to have 
been used by the Druids before the introduction 
of Christianity into Ireland. This venerable 
storehouse of Irish history will have but small 
interest for the tourist, and he will do well to 
press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will 
pass the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kear- 
ney" once resided, and will doubtless be invited 
by one of her descendants to exchange sixpence 
or a shilling for a mysterious drink of goats' 
milk and whiskey. 



10 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney. 

Of the Gap of Dunloe an. Irish writer has 
said : "It appears as if the vast range of moun- 
tains, of which this most singular ravine is 
composed, were cleft in twain by a mighty 
sword: one is not surprised at its appearance 
having given rise to such a tradition." It is a 
narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of 
hills called "Macgillicuddy's Reeks" and the 
Purple Mt, a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid 
stream called the Loc traverses the whole length 
of the glen, expanding at various places into 
five lakes known as the Cummeen Thomeen. 
The road is a mere bridlepath, sometimes on the 
very edge of precipices. The peasantry say that 
it was at the Black Lough, one of the small 
lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake 
from Ireland. Many travellers who are disap- 
pointed in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just 
after leaving it, up what is called the Black Val- 
ley, extremely impressive. The Gap is bordered 
by rocky peaks varying from 2,000 to 3.400 feet 
in height; but the vast and desolate amphithe- 
atre of the Black Valley, with its rugged masses 
of darkened rock, its circular basins of still 
water filled with dissolvea peaty matter, and its 
wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impres- 
sion of grandeur and wonder which its neighbor 
ravine fails to produce. The view down the 
valley on a warm, hazy day is very striking. The 
water in the lakes throws back the light which 
it receives by reflection from the sky, and thus 
seems to be lighted from below. 

At numerous points in the Gap and on the 
Lakes there are superb echoes, and there is no 
lack of peasants to awaken them, and to claim 
a fee for having done so. A narrow and rugged 



IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney. 11 

footpath leads down from the head of the Gap 
to Lord Brandon's Cottage, where the tourist 
who has ordered a boat before leaving Killar- 
ney will find it waiting for him. It is well to 
have lunch provided in the boat, so that one 
can take it as he is rowed down towards the 
Middle and Lower Lakes. From Lord Bran- 
don's Cottage one may ascend Purple Mountain 
(2,739 feet high), and from the summit get a 
fine view of the Upper and Middle Lakes and a 
long stretch of the sea-coast beyond ; but this 
would require half a day at least. 

The Lakes.— From the cottage, across the Up- 
per Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show 
the tourist the numerous pretty islands. The 
first of these m, McCarthy's; the second, Ar^hutus 
Island, completely covered with the beautiful 
plant whose name it bears. "The islands in the 
lakes of Cumberland," says the author of Black's 
Picturesque Tourist, "are either grassy holms, 
with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch 
the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, 
if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle 
on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash 
and plane, mixed with every other variety of 
forest trees. The islands on the Killarney Lakes 
have a totally different aspect, produced entirely 
by the presence of the arbutus {Aj'hutus unedo) . 
Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy 
green, and so clustered at the terminations of the 
branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, 
which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich 
crimson, strawberry-like fruit, seem cradled in 
a nest of verdure." The Upper Lake is thought 
by most people to be the finest of the three. On 
the S. lie the Derrycunihy mountain ranges, and 



12 IRELAND. Lakes of Killaeney. 

on the E. the high "Reeks." The Long Ramge is 
a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connecting 
the Upper with the Middle Lake. Things to 
note here: Colman's Eye; The Man of War; 
The Four Friends, a group of islets ; The Eagle's 
Nest, a cliff which towers 700 feet above the 
river (the echoes heard from this point are re- 
markalbly fine) ; Old Weir Bridge, an ancient 
structure, under which the water rushes swiftly. 
The small boat is carried through at great speed, 
and floats into a still pool called the Meeting 
of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into 
the Middle, which is also called Muckross, or 
Tore Lake. On Dinish Island there is a cottage 
where dinner may be had, if previously ordered 
from the hotel in Killarney in the morning. 
Tore Cascade can be visited from this point ; 
but it will be better to take this in conjunction 
with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little farther 
on. Passing under Bricken Bridge, the boat 
enters Lough Leane, or the Loicer Lake. The. 
area of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest 
length 5 M., breadth 3 M. There are thirty 
islands, the principal one of which, the Ross, is 
the location of the last stronghold in Munster 
that surrendered to the Parliamentary army. 
The castle was built in the 14th century, by one 
of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innisfallen, 
midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and 
fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, 
said of it that it was "the most beautiful in the 
king's dominions, and perhaps in Europe." The 
ruins of the noted abbey are pointed out. 
The "Annals of Innisfallen," a kind of univer- 
sal history down to the time of St. Patrick, 
were written in the abbey about 600 years 



IRELAND, MucKKOSS Abbey. 13 

ago. The original copy of this curious work 
is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. 
In 1180 the abbey, into which all the treasures 
of the adjacent country had been gathered for 
safe keeping, was plundered by Mildwin, son of 
Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen will tell the 
traveller quite as much as he will care to hear 
about the past of "sweet Innisfallen." The 
part of the Lower Lake first entered is called 
Glena Bay. From the shore near Rabhit Island 
it is but a short walk to 0' Sullivan's Cascade. 

Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on 
the same day as the Gap and Lakes, should 
arrange with their boatmen to land them at 
the point of the Lower Lake nearest to it. From 
the shore through the handsome estate of Mr. 
Herbert to the abbey is but a short walk. The 
noted ruins are those of a church and abbey, 
founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, and 
still in decent preservation. In the church are 
many ancient tombs; among them, those of the 
O'Sullivans, M'Carthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. 
The arms of a gigantic yew-tree support the 
crumbling wall of a beautiful cloister. The trunk 
of the yew is 13 feet in circumference. Fees are 
not exacted here; but it is customary to give 
something. Muckross Abbey Mansion is a fine 
example of the Elizabethan style of architecture. 
Passing through the grounds, the visitor is ad- 
mitted at a small wicket (fee, 9d.) to the en- 
closure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb 
up above the fall, which is 60-70 feet high, and 
look down upon it and out over the lakes. Vis- 
itors may, if they wish, drive or walk through 
the grounds of the Earl of Kenmare to Ross 



14 IRELxlND. KiLLARNEY TO Dublin. ; 

Island and Castle. The island is connected with . 
the mainland by a dike. 

From Muckross to Killarney the distance is 
about 3^ M. The entire round trip is not very 
fatiguing. We recommend the tourist to ride 
the first 11 M. to the Gap ; walk 4 M. through 
the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage; then the 
13 M. across the lakes to Muckross and the 3^ 
M. into Killarney can be done easily before 
dark. 

Other Excursions from KillsiTney — Ascent of 
Mount Mangerton (z,756 ft.). On the way one 
comes to the "Devil's Punch Bowl/' a mountain 
Tarn 2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies 
a basin 28 acres in extent. Charles James Fox 
swam around it in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks: 
interesting, but somewhat difficult. Journey to 
Valentia : it is worth a day's ride on a jaunting- 
car to see the mighty waves beating against the 
rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. The train 
from 

Killarney to Dublin 
(time, 7 hrs. ; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the 
main line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow 
are the ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where Ed- 
mund Spenser wrote the "Faerie Queene." He 
obtained, in 1586, a grani of land from for- 
feited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on con- 
dition that he should inhabit the country. In 
1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, 
to whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, 
and his infant child perished in the flames 
which destroyed his home. He fled to London, 
and died of a broken heart. At Limerick Junc- 
tion the main line from Dublin to Cork is inter- 
sected by the Waterford and Limerick line. 



IRELAND. Limerick. — Waterfokd. 15 

Limerick (Royal Hotel; George; Qlent- 
wortJi), on tlie Shannon, "the noblest of Irish 
rivers," deserves a visit, which can be made in 
a day, including the return to the line to Dublin. 
Limerick has about 46,000 inhabitants, and con- 
tains a venerable cathedral transformed into a 
Protestant church, and a noble castle built in 
King John's time. 

Waterford (Adelphia; hnperial) merits a 
visit, but is perhaps too far off the line of the 
vacation tourist. It is a handsome town of 
26,000 inhabitants, on the Suir ; and was the 
scene of many terrible fights between the Irish 
and the Danes. Between Limerick Junction and 
Dublin there are many places of historical im- 
portance. From Goold's-Cros's Station it is but 
5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, 
which rises 300 feet above the plain. Cashel 
was the residence of the Kings of Munster ; and 
there Henry II. received the homage of Donald, 
King of Liraerick, in 1172. Edward the Bruce 
also held a parliament there. Near Thurles are 
ruins of Holy-Cross At)l}ey. Just beyond Portar- 
lington the river Barrow is crossed on an iron 
viaduct 500 feet long. Kildare, "the city re- 
nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It 
possesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the 
Chapel of St. Brigid, t-alled the "Fire House" 
because it is the supposed location of the fire 
which nuns kept burning night and day for a 
thousand years "for the benefit of poor stran- 
gers," is still shown. The "Curragh," an ancient 
race-course, and now used as a military en- 
campment and practice ground for soldiers, is 
just beyond Kildare. Sham fights are sometimes 
given there in the summer months. Near Hazel- 



16 IRELAND. Dublin. 

hatch station is CeWriclge Ahhey, once the resi- 
dence of Swift's "Vanessa." 

Dublin and Vicinity. 

Two days can be spent to advantage in visit- 
ing Dublin, provided the weather be fair. May, 
June, and August are excellent months for the 
visit. But the hurried tourist can manage to 
secure a tolerable idea of the Irish capital by 
a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, or by half 
a day's leisurely walk. Dublin (Shelbourne 
Hotel; Gi'esliam; Metropole; HiJ)erman; Edin- 
burgh, temperance) is a city of 40,000 inhabit- 
ants, on the river Liffey, which divides it into 
two nearly equal-parts, and, shortly below the 
town widens into a fine bay, on one side of 
which rises the Hill of Howth, and on the other 
Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. Those who do 
not dread sudden showers should engage an 
open car by the hr. (Is. 6d. for the first hr., and 
6d. for each additional * hr.), and drive to the 
Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Dublin Castle, 
Christ's Church Cathedral, St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral, the General Post-Office, Nelson's Monument, 
the Custom House, the Four Courts, and finally 
to Phoenix Park. This will enable one to judge 
pretty well of the main exterior attractions. 
The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those 
of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St, with 
its cut-granite Doric columns to Nelson, 121 ft. 
high, is imposing, from Carlisle Bridge. The 
Liffey is navigable to this bridge; but no large 
vessels come above the 

Custom House, the finest building in the city. 
It is a handsome quadrangular structure, the 



IRELAND. Dublin. 17 

principal front of which faces the river. Notice 
the allegorical composition in the central por- 
tico. It represents Britannia and Hibernia in a 
marine shell, a group of merchantmen approach- 
ing, and Neptune driving away famine and de- 
spair. The dome is 120 feet high, and bears on 
its summit a statue of Hope. From Nelson's 
Monument, a good view of the city and suburbs 
may be obtained. Fee for ascent, 6d. The 
statue of the hero is the work of a native 
sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of £6,856, 
which the memorial cost, was raised by sub- 
scription among Nelson's Irish admirers. The 
General Post-Office has a majestic Ionic portico, 
surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercurv, and 
Fidelity. 

The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the 
name of a handsome building, in which are the 
Courts of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, 
and Common Pleas. It was begun on the site 
of an old Dominican monastery in 1776, and 
was completed just at the time of the union 
of the two nations. Cost about i200,000. The 
fagade on the river is 450 feet long. The great 
circular hall in the centre is lighted by a torch 
borne in the hands of a gigantic figure of Truth. 
[ New buildings for the accommodation of the 
jLand Courts have recently been erected near by. 
■ Phoenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly well 
ilaid out. Interesting reviews of troops are'some- 
times held there. Monuments in the Park.— 
The Wellincjtoii Testimonial, erected in 1817 at 
a cost of £20,000, by the Iron Duke's fellow- 
townsmen of Duulin. This quadrangular, trun- 
cated obelisk of Wicklow granite has sunken 
oanels on each side of its pedestal, containing 



18 IRELAND. Dublin. 

relievos in metal, three representing military 
pieces and the fourth containing the laurel- 
crowned head of the hero himself. The battles 
in which the Duke took part are inscribed here, 
and the bas-reliefs are made from captured can- 
non. — Tlie Carlisle Memorial statue, by Foley, 
in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years of 
vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of 
the park, is the Military Hospital, and a little 
farther on the Constal)ulary Barracks. Within 
the park-limits the Lord-Lieutenant has a sum- 
mer residence. Zoological Gardens (admission. 
Is., on Sun. 2d.), not far away. 

On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing 
from Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-St., 
at the E. side of which there is a statue of Tom 
Moore, one comes to the Bank of Ireland, in 
College Green. This was once used as the Par- 
liament House. It was completed in 1787, at a 
cost of £95,000, but was purchased in 1802 by 
the company of the Bank of Ireland for £40.000 
and an annual rental of £240. The entrance 
to the former House of Lords was by a portico 
on the E. side. The House of Lords (visitors 
admitted) remains unaltered, except that 
statue of George HI. occupies the site of the 
throne. Old tapestries, representing the "Siege 
of Derry" and "King William Crossing the 
Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also the 
mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- 
site the bank is Trinity College; and on either 
side of the entrance to it are the famous Statues 
of Goldsmith and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was 
founded in Pope John XXII. 's time, and was 
closed in Henry VIII. 's reign, but opened again 
by Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation. 



IRELAND. Dublin. 19 

In 1627 a new code of laws was framed for it. 
The civil wars of the Protectorate brought its 
fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles 
II. endowed it lib'erally. The institution, which 
is open to ail creeds, usually assembles about 
1,400 students, and has educated some of the 
most renowned of modern wits. The Museum 
contains Brian Boroihme's harp and the charter- 
horn of King O'Kavanagh ; the noble dining- 
hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord 
Avonmore. Chief Justice Downs, Flood, Lord 
Kilwarden, Prince Frederick, father of George 
III., and Lord Cairns. Hewitsori's fine monu- 
ment to Provost Baldwin, in the building on 
the r. of the first courtyard, should be seen. The 
library contains nearly 300,000 volumes and 2,000 
MSS'., and in the E. end is a very valuable col- 
lection known as the "Fagel Library." Note 
the Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms, in 
College Park. On College Green there is an 
equestrian statue in lead of William III., erected 
in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan. 

Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. 
Nearly all trace of its original design is now 
lost. The Vice-regal Chapel and Apartments, St. 
Patrick's Hall, the Portrait Chamber, and the 
Private Drawing Room are shown by the attend- 
ants for small gratuities, except during "the 
season." The stained-glass windows of the 
chapel contain the arms of all the Lord-Lieu- 
tenants. Good music in this chapel Sunday 
forenoon. Band plays in the courtyard mornings. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a 
religious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, 
near the well in which he baptized his converts. 
The present building was begun by Archbishop 



20 IRELAND. Dublin. 

Comyn in 1190, and restored and much improved, 
after the destruction of a portion of it by fire, 
under the care of Archbishop Minot, in 1370. 
Monuments worth notice inside : one to Boyle, 
Earl of Cork ; and one to the Duke of Schom- 
berg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long 
Dean of the Cathedral. Two marble slabs mark 
the resting-place of Swift and his "Stella" (Mrs. 
Hester Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the 
brewer, had the cathedral repaired and largely 
restored in 1860-63, at a cost of il40,000. The 
choir and side aisles were restored in 1900 by 
his son. Lord Iveagh. and a new organ, cost- 
ing £6,000, was built in over the north aisle. 
The Lady Chapel was built by George IV. as 
Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick. 

Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- 
tion ; but the present structure is comparatively 
modern. It was first erected in 1038, and en- 
larged in later days by Strongbow and Fitz- 
stephen, and still later by Raymond-le-Gros. It 
was in Christ Church that the liturgy was first 
read in Ireland in the English tongue. Note Earl 
Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local guides 
will tell you the various conflicting reports con- 
cerning its authenticity. As St. Patrick's owed 
its restoration to a brewer, so did this edifice to 
a distiller, Mr. Henry Roe. who expended £220,- 
000 on it. Stephen's Green is a handsome square 
surrounded with fine mansions. On the W. side 
is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in 1806- 
25. E. side : Royal College of Seience. In centre 
of Green, a statue of George II., by Van Nest. S. 
side: the Catholic University, the palace of the 
Archbishop of Dublin, Wesley College, and the 
Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the 



IRELAND. Dublin. 21 

palace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 
was held. It was purchased by Sir Arthur and 
E. C. Guinness, and devoted to the public benefit, 
and is now the home of the Royal University. It 
contains a concert hall capable of seating 3,000 
persons. 

Other Interesting Sights in Diiblin. — The Royal 
Hihetmian Academy, erected in 1824 for the pro- 
motion of the fine arts (exhibition opens in Feb- 
ruary ; closes in July). The National Gallery, 
with a statue of Dargan in front of the N. side 
of Leinster Lawn. The Science and Art Museum, 
the National Ml)rai'y, and the Museum of Nat- 
ural History. The College Botanic Gardens at 
Lansdowne Road. Merrion-Rotv and Merrion- 
St. : the house in which Wellington was born in 
1769; and at 30 Merrion-Square, the mansion 
where Daniel O'Connell resided for some years. 
Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. Royal 
Duhlin Society, and King's and Queen's College 
of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with 
Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn 
Exchange, the meeting-place of the National 
Council in 1832, and of the Repeal Association 
later on. Conciliation Hall, now a corn store, 
but the scene of many of O'Connell's triumphs. 
Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. The Poplin Manu- 
factories : Dublin poplins are famous ; and the 
industry is rapidly reviving. 

Excursions from Dublin. — To Glasnevin Ceme- 
tery, where are graves and fine monuments of 
O'Connell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. 
Botanic Gardens, near by, — Duhlin to Howth : 
Several trains daily. Distance, 9 M. The penin- 
sular Hill of Hoivth is the first landmark sighted 
on approaching Dublin from the sea. The route 



22 IRELAND. Drogheda.— Bray. 

leads past Clontarf, the scene of Brian Boroihme's 
last victory over the Danes, to Howth, a pleas- 
ant village on the hill. From the harbor an ex- 
cursion in boat may be made to the island of 
"Ireland's Eye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey 
of Howth is pleasantly located on a steep over- 
hanging the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands 
an ancient Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 
14x12, supported on numerous others. It is sup- 
posed to be a portion of a sepulchral monument 
to a departed chief. — Malahide {Grand Hotel), 
9 M. from Dublin, has a notable castle and abbey. 
The altar-tomb in the ruined abbey is a m.emo- 
rial of the sad history of the lady who in one 
day was "maid, wife, and widow," — the daughter 
of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda {Central; White 
Horse), 14 hours by rail from Dublin. This was 
the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649. and 
was carried by assault, led by the Protector him- 
self. Drogheda was also the scene of the "Battle 
of the Boyne,'' fought. July L 1690, between the 
Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James IL 
An obelisk 150 ft. high marks the spot where 
William began the attack and where Schomberg 
fell. From Drogheda, Tara and Kells may be 
visited. 

From Dnhlin to Bray and the Wicklow Mts. is 
a charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin 
( Station Hotel: International) , beautifully situ- 
ated; headquarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 
2s.). to the Waterfall (car. 4s.). to the Glen of 
the Downs (car. 3s. 6d.). to Greystones (car, 4s. 
6d.). From Bray to the Devil's Glen, the Seven 
Churches, and the Vale of Avoca, where "the 
bright waters meet." is a profitable .iourney. Go 
by rail from Bray to Rathnew Stat, from Rath- 



IRELAND. Kingston. 23 

new by car to Devil's Glen, from Devil's Glen by 
car to tbe "Meeting of the Waters," in all about 
38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. — From 
Bray to Wickloic. along tbe coast by rail — desir- 
able journey in bright weather. The Wicklow 
Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares 
along the coast are moderate, and car-drivers 
must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of the 
excellent local guides, for descriptions of the 
scenery. 

If the tourist decides to go to Wales and Eng- 
land via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to 
Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., 
or via Kingstown for 12s. or 8s. We think most 
American tourists prefer the latter route. By 
rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M., thence 
across the Irish Channel, 66 M., 4 hrs. There 
nre two through services to London daily — one 
leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other at 6.45, 
morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- 
ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the 
evening, and sleep on the boat which is to start 
next morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then 
they can breakfast at their leisure — if the Irish 
Channel leaves them any leisure. If the weather 
is fine some interesting views on the Irish and 
Welsh Coasts may be had during the crossing to 
Holyhead. 

KingstovfuiRoyal Marine Hotel ;AngleseaAr7ns) 
is so called because George IV. landed there on a 
visit to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the 
royal landing. The refuge harbor embraces an 
area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable 
system of "Irish Lights" was completed, many 
serious accidents to shipping occurred near 
Kingstown. 



24 IRELAND. Maynooth. — Galway. 

From Dublin to Galway. 

This route takes one from the E. to the "wild 
west coast," in 5i hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., 
lis. lOd.) ; distance, 126^ M. Glasnevin. where 
Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other cele- 
brities resided ; and Maynooth, where there is a 
castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, 
and the Royal College of St. Patrick, — are in- 
teresting. At MuUingar are the remains of an 
Augustiuian Priory. AthJone is an important mili- 
tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is 
crossed by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond 
Woodlawn, the Connemara Mts. become visible 
to the r. Athenry is an ancient town, with 
ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious es- 
tablishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway 
Bay and the Islands of Arran may be obtained. 
From Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 
M. (fare 6d. per M.). Auburn is "The Deserted 
Village" of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lis- 
hoy ; but since the famous Oliver gave it the 
name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The 
most interesting relic in the village is the ruined 
parsonage, where the Rev. Charles Goldsmith, 
the original of Dr. Primrose in the "Vicar of 
Wakefield," struggled for the maintenance of his 
large family. 

Galway (Railway Hotel at the station: 
Royal) is a quaint old town, rather Spanish in 
appearance, with wide gateways, broad stairs, 
and many other evidences of the predominance 
of Spanish ideas in former times. For a long 
period during and after the 14th century, exten- 
sive trade was carried on between Spain and 
Galway, and Irish merchants made frequent and 



IRELAND. Dublin to Belfast. 25 

protracted visits to Spain. Some of the resi- 
dences of the merchant princes of old days are 
now tenement houses, occupied by the very poor- 
est and lowest class. Queen's College is a hand- 
some Gothic structure, built of gray limestone. 
Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland; and the 
distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636 
M. The Western Highlands of Connemara, and 
the County Clare, including the region rendered 
famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants 
in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. 
The road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 
88 M. (car fares about 14s. 6d.), passes through 
the most attractive part of the region. West- 
port (Railway Hotel; Gleio Bay) is a pretty 
town ; and the domain of the Marquis of Sligo 
should be visited. See Clare Island, the ancient 
residence of Grace O'Malley. 

Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's Cause- 
way, etc. 

In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the trav- 
eller must consider whether he intends to return 
to Dublin and cross to England via Kingstown 
and Holyhead, or to cross from Belfast to Glas- 
gow or Liverpool or Fleetwood. If he means to 
come back to Dublin, let him proceed thence 
directly to Portrush, which is the nearest sta- 
tion to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, 
etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 23s. 
8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide; The 
Skerries, where Saint Patrick is said to have 
taken shelter when he was pursued by the 
Druids ; BaWriggan, famous for its stocking fac- 
tories; Drogheda; Dundalk, where Edward 



26 IRELAND. Giant's Causeway. 

Bruce was crowned King of Ireland ; Portadown 
Junction; Lurgan, a flourishing town engaged in 
linen manufactories; Belfast; Antrim, not far 
from Lough Neagh ; and Coleraine, long noted 
for the fineness of its linens. 

Portrush (Northern Counties; Raihcay; Neiv 
Golf; Lansdoirne, temperance; Portrush) is a 
pleasant watering-place. The Causeway may be 
reached by the electric tramway passing through 
Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On the way the 
tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unquestionably 
one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. It 
is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock 
about 100 feet above the sea. The surface of 
the rock is entirely covered by the ruins of what 
must have been an impregnable stronghold. A 
single wall, not more than IS inches broad, con- 
nects the castle with the mainland. Sea view 
very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is., according to size 
of party. "The White Rocks," in which there are 
many fantastic caverns, are not far from Dun- 
luce. 

The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage 
guide at the Causeivay Hotel. The basaltic rocks 
are abundant along the coast here, but the most 
interesting formations occur Detween Portcoon 
Cave, on the W., and Dunseverick Castle, on the 
E. If the tourist has time, he should take the 
circuit first in a boat, and then visit the more 
important of the curiosities by land. See the Cause- 
ways, Little, Middle, and Great ; the Giant's Gate- 
way ; Giant's Organ ; Chimney Tops ; the Priest 
and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and 
Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's 
Causeway to Belfast by the coast road, recom- 
mended only to those in no hurry. A whole day 



IRELAND. Belfast. 27 

must be given to the trip from Portrush to the 
Causeway and return. 

Londonderry (Jury's Hotel; Imperial : Ulster; 
Northern) is on the river Foyle. Memorials of 
the historic "Siege of Derrj-" are numerous. 
Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old 
walls of the town are still preserved as a prom- 
enade. From Londonderry to Portrush it is 2 
hrs. by rail (Ts. 6d., 5s. 6d., 3s. 8d.) ; from 
Portrush to Belfast it is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. 4d.). 

Belfast (Imperial; Graticl Central; Royal; 
Station; Balmoral, temperance) will remind 
American visitors of some of our own thriving 
manufacturing towns ; and the contrast between 
its smartness and vivacity and the dullness and 
languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be 
remarked at once. In 40 years the population 
has increased from 87,000 to 350,000. Two-thirds 
of the inhabitants are Protestants. The town 
stands on the property of the Marquis of Done- 
gal ; and it is said that but for long leases 
granted by the former proprietor, the income of 
that nobleman from the town alone would 
amount to i300,000. Belfast is situated on the 
Lagan, near the elongated bay known as Belfast 
Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow, and 
156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of the 
town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The 
new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island 
is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 
2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are. 
built there. Buildings to notice : Presbyterian 
C/l. Rosemary-St. ; Royal Academical Institution 
and Government School of Art; Commercial 
Buildings; Ulster Bank: Belfast Bank; Custom 
House, High-St, and Albert Square; the Harbor 



28 IRELAND. Belfast. 

Office; the Linen Hall, with the Belfast Lihrary ; 
Queen's College, reached by the Botanic Road; 
Preshyterian College, University Square; Metho- 
dic College. Other things to see: Botanic Gar- 
dens, the Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and 
The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses. Visitors 
are readily admitted to most of the mills. 

Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill; to 
the Giant's Ring; to Dundalk; to Bangor, the 
chief watering-place for the inhabitants of Bel- 
fast ; and to Lord Dufferin's estate of Clande- 
J)oye, 9 M. from the city. 

The traveller now has his choice of various 
routes for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go 
direct from Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he 
can do so by the Royal Mail Steamship Line, 
daily service (Sun. excepted) ; time, 8 hrs., fare, 
12s. 6d. The routes by sea from Belfast to Liv- 
erpool and to London can be recommended only 
to those who have a passion for sea travel. Fare 
to Liverpool, 12s. 6d. ; to London, 25s. A boat 
leaves Belfast Monday. Wednesday, and Friday 
at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness ; fare, 12s. 6d. Also 
Belfast to Heysham, daily except Sunday, and 
Belfast to Fleetwood, daily except Sunday, all by 
night run. Through tickets to London (45s. 6d. 
or 21s. 3d., by the Midland Rly., 1st and 3d class 
only. 



NORTH WALES. Holyhead. 



NORTH WALES. 

HOLYHEAD (Station Hotel, Tre-Arrdur Bay, 
2 miles from the station) affords a pic- 
turesque introduction to some of the most ro- 
mantic portions of Wales. Those not obliged to 
proceed at once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, 
can spend 2 or 3 days with pleasure and profit 
at points along the line. Holyhead stands on 
Holy Island, divided by a small strait from 
Anglesea or Anglesey, and takes its name from a 
monastery founded in the 6th century. Good 
view from the hill of the rocky shores (the 
North Stack and the South Stack with its light- 
house), the harbor of refuge, and the massive 
breakwater. The promontory of the head is hol- 
lowed by the ocean into caverns, which afford 
shelter to myriads of seafowl. There are im- 
portant Roman remains here. The Ch. was 
erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboring 
island of Anglesea or Mona, rich in minerals, 
was a principal seat of Druidical superstition. 
It was conquered with the rest of Wales by Ed- 
ward I. The Britannia Tuhular Bridge, one of 
the wonders of Great Britain, is crossed about 
21 M. from Holyhead. This, as well as the 
Menai Suspension Bridge, may be visited from 
Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the Con- 
way and Britannia bridges, and in noting how 
the idea that budded in the first structure has 
fully blossomed in the later and larger one. The 
Britannia bridge is 1,513 feet long and consists 
of a wrought iron tube resting on piers over 100 



30 NORTH WALES. Bangok. 

feet above the water. The vast tubes were nor 
placed where they now rest without enormous 
painstaking and trouble. One of the spans is 
472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed entirely 
of iron, expands and contracts with the changes 
of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends 
of the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus 
maintain the line of rail perfect. The Menal 
Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also 
a stupendous work. Its greatest span from point 
to point is 560 feet, and its elevation above the 
water-way at the highest tiae is 100 feet. It 
is the longest suspension bridge in England or 
Wales. It was built in the old coaching days, 
in the early part of the century. After crossing 
this bridge, you have left the island of Anglesea 
and are on the mainland. 

Bangor {George, about a mile from the sta- 
tion ; Railicay, North Western, Wiliianis' Tem- 
perance, near the station ; Castle, near the Cathe- 
dral) lies in a valley between two great rocky 
ridges. On the N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. 
See Cathedral, with monuments of numerous 
Welsh princes ; the palace of the Bishop of Ban- 
gor, and charitable institutions ; and walk to the 
Menai Bridge. Mt. scenery fine. The cathedral 
was built in the 6th century, destroyed by the 
Anglo-Normans in the 11th, rebuilt in the 12th, 
and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in 1402. The 
present structure dates from the 16th century, 
and is a massive construction, with a tower of 
moderate height. Bangor is in the oldest dio- 
cese in Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry 
of immense extent, in which as many as 2,000 
persons are at times employed. Admission to 
quarries free, but guide expects a tip. 70,000 



NORTH WALES. Conway. 31 

tons of slate are yearly shipped from Port Pen- 
rhyn. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose 
family the quarries are owned ; Tuesday and 
Thursday (when family is absent) by ticket 2s., 
and Is. for each additional member of the party. 
The railway skirts the shore of Beaumaris 
Bay; passes through Penmaenmaicr, near which 
is a mountain of the same name, 1,540 feet high ; 
through the Penbach Tunnel ; and, just before 
reaching Conway, traverses the Conway Tubular 
Bridge, erected by Stephenson in 1848. It con- 
sists of two hollow rectangular tubes of wrought- 
iron plates, for the up and down trains, each 
measuring 410 feet and weighing 1140 tons. 
Conway (Castle; Oakwood Park, 1 mile from 
station) has a ruined castle of much historic 
interest. This superb ruin is situated on a rock, 
guarded on two sides by the Conway River. It 
was built by Edward I. During the civil wars 
the fortress, flanked by eight embattled towers, 
was garrisoned for the King, but the Parlia- 
mentary army took it. Charles II. gave it to 
the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the pre- 
cious stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now 
belongs to the Marquis of Hertford. The mas- 
sive walls of the town, with their towers and 
gateways, are still in good condition. Among 
the odd old houses in Conway is the Plas Maivr. 
erected in 1577 by -Robert Wynne, which is worth 
a visit. In the church of St. Mary there are 
several monuments to members of the Wynne 
family, one to Nicholas Hooks, the 41st child in 
his father's family, and one to the sculptor, John 
Gibson. See The College in Castle-St., now in- 
habited by poor families. On the S. E. side 
of Great Orme's Head, 4 M. by rail from Con- 



32 NORTH WALES. Caernarvon. 

way, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan- 
dudno {Imperial, Marine, on the Uplands; 
GroMd; Gogath AMey, on the bay). Great 
Orme's Head and Little Orm&s Head on two 
rugged cliffs, on which is the beautiful Marine 
Drive. The Piei\ 1,250 feet long (2d., during the 
day; 6d. in the evening) is much frequented. 

Tourists who have a few days to spend in 
North Wales can make a variety of interesting 
excursions from Bangor or Conway. From the 
former point they may visit Caernarvon or Car- 
narvon {Royal; Royal Sportsman) an ancient 
town, situated partly on the Menai Strait and 
partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caerna- 
von's chief object of interest is the Castle erected 
by Edward I., where (in the Eagle Tower) Ed- 
ward II., the first English Prince of Wales was 
born. It occupies the w^hole W. end of the town. 
Years ago it seemed as if fast going to ruin, and 
in 1828 the Eagle Tower (so named from the 
figure of the bird standing on its sunnuit) was 
struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev- 
eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. 
But great pains have since been taken to restore 
the fabric, and it stands today a grand and beau- 
tiful structure. On two sides it is washed by the 
sea, on the third it was formerly protected by a 
moat and on the fourth it was shut in by the 
town. Caernarvon is probably only about ^ 
M, from the site of Segontium, the principal 
Roman station in North Wales. The view 
from Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See . 
the Terrace, outside the town walls, also 
Druidical circles in the neighborhood. It is 
not quite 9 M. by rail from Bangor to Caer- 
narvon, and in good weather a tramp along 



NORTH WALES. Llaxbeeis. — Rhyl. 33 

the highway between the two towns will be 
found enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snow- 
donian region is easy of access. Roman ruins 
abound in the vicinity. Llanberis {Victoria, 
Doldabarn, near station: Snoicdon Valley, in the 
town ) , from which point Snowdon ( 3,571 feet high ) 
may be ascended, is reached by rail from Caernar- 
von. The ascent of Snowdon from here is not diffi- 
cult, and the view from the summit on a fine 
day is well worth the climb. Llanl)eris and Nant 
Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in Wales, 
and the latter is especially beautiful. The road 
through it winds under frowning precipices ; and 
Lake Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through 
a chasm in the rock into numerous cascades, 
some of them 100 feet high, that find their way 
into the rich vale extending N. to Bethesda and 
Bangor. A good trip would be from Bangor to 
Caernarvon; thence to Llanberis and through 
the Pass to Capel Curig; thence to Bettws-y- 
Coed, the "Station in the Wood," a delicious 
sylvan retreat, where Coe painted some of his 
most beautiful pictures. Near by are the Falls 
of the Conicay. From LlanTyeris a coach (15 
miles, fare, 5s.) runs to Becldgelert (Saracen's 
Head), a charming Welsh village most pictur- 
esquely situated. 

Returning to the main line, the tourist will 
find but two or three other points worthy notice 
between Conway and Chester. Abergele (Bee 
Hotel) is near Cave Hill, where there is a fine 
natural cavern ; and the mountain pass in which 
the Welsh defeated Harold and, later on, mas- 
sacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. Hemans 
lived for many years at Abergele. Rhyl (West- 
minster; Queen's Belvoir) is a pretty watering- 



34 NORTH WALES. Holywell. 

place. A branch railway runs thence to the little 
Welsh cathedral-town of St. Asaph {Plough), 
and to Denbigh {Crown), a venerable hill-town 
with many very quaint old houses, and a stately 
ruined Castle, on the hill. At Holywell the 
famous St, Winifred's Well is to be seen (2d.). 
Flint Castle, on a rocli by the sea, was once the 
prison of Richard II, 13 M. beyond the train 
crosses the Dee, leaving Wales. 



i 



ENGLAND. Chester. 35 



ENGLAND. 

CHESTER (Ch'osvenor; Queen's, at the sta- 
tion; Westminster, temperance). The 
curious features of this delightful town (40,000 
inhabitants) may be seen in a single day (or, 
with the aid of a carriage, in 3 or 4 hrs.). The 
traveller who has not already made up his mind 
should here decide whether he will go directly 
to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and 
thence to Scotland. To those who contemplate 
making an extensive tour on the Continent, and 
returning to the British Islands only late in 
September or October, we would recommend a 
trip from Chester to Liverpool, and thence, after 
having seen the sights in that city and in 
Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes 
ajid Scotch mountains. But many persons will 
probably wish to go to London and the Conti- 
nent at once, for a season, returning N. in 
August and resuming our English and Scotch 
itinerary from Chester or Liverpool. 

Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is 
sufficiently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy 
the most curious of Transatlantic travellers. 
Some kind of town existed on this site before 
the Roman invasion, but it was the Romans who 
made the definite foundation. They chose this 
place as one of their principal military stations, 
called it the "City of the Legions," and made it 
the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls 
still occupy the same ground and carry out the 
identical plan chosen and arranged by the Ro- 



36 ENGLAND. Chester. 

man leaders. Chester was laid waste in the 
early part of the 7th century by ^Ethelfrith. 
King of the Northumbrians ; and then the memo- 
rials of the Roman sojourn were greatly in- 
jured. For nearly three centuries the town lay 
in ruins. In 907 Alfred the Great's daughter, 
Ethelfleda, restored the ruined walls which the 
Danes had from time to time used as temporary 
strongholds ; and from that day Chester became 
important in English history. It was the very 
last city to hold out against William the Con- 
queror ; and a nephew of the great Norman was 
made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. 
Chester was especially prominent in the Civil 
War as the first city to declare for Charles, and 
the last to yield to the Parliamentary forces. 

A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun 
at East Gate, near the Grosvener or Blossom's 
Hotel. Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral 
(described below). Next beyond it, at the angle 
of the walls where they turn W. to the North 
Gate, is the Phoenix Tower, on which Charles I. 
stood during the battle of Rowton Moor and 
gazed on the defeat of his army, Sept. 24, 164.5. 
See inscription. Under the walls at this point is 
the Shropshire Union Canal, cut in the solid 
rock. Moving on towards the North Gate, the 
original Roman walls, terminating in a cornice 
6 feet below the parapet, may be seen. From 
this gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh 
mountains and of Waverton and Christleton 
churches. Just outside the gate is an ancient 
Blue Coat Hospital. A little farther on, from a 
square building on the right side of the wall, 
there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint 
Castle, the Training College, etc. Another tower, 



ENGLAND. Chester. 37 

once known as the Goblin's, but now called 
Pemberton's Parlor, comes next. It bears a 
mutilated inscription about the "glorious reign ' 
of Anne." The Water Tower, as its name indi- 
cates, was once closely approached by ships ; 
but the river is now a long way from the walls. 
This part of the fortifications was bombarded 
by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower is a 
museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See rail- 
way viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near 
this point. The City Jail is an imposing struc- 
ture. From the Water Gate note the Rhoodee 
race-course, and beyond the river the fine villas 
of Curzon Park. Grosvenor Bridge, which spans 
the stream, has a span of 200 feet. Over the 
river, in Edgar's Field, is a statue of Pallas. 
The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, 
erected in the last century on the site of the 
ancient one. "Caesar's Tower" is the only rem- 
nant of the old structure. See near the Castle 
the Comhermere Monument and the SMre Hall, 
Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. Walk on 
over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to New 
Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside 
the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is 
the church of St. John the Baptist, founded in 
689, and rebuilt in 1574. 

The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, 
and the choir and central tower were finished 
in the early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, 
refectory, and chapter-house are said to have 
been constructed 1200-1230. Many portions were 
greatly altered in the period between 1485 and 
1537. The church is almost entirely built of 
red sandstone, plentiful in the district. The 
restorations carried on for several years past 



38 ENGLAND. Chester. 

have proved highly successful. The E. portion 
is an excellent example of Early English style. 
The choir is beautiful : note the Gothic work at 
the sides ; also the richly carven Gothic screen of 
stone, which separates the nave from the choir; 
the bishop's throne, formed by the shrine of St. 
Werburgh of miraculous memory ; and the black 
and white marble pavement in the choir. The 
W. front, though unfinished, is the best. The 
lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the 
22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, 
in the chapter-house; and the great W. window 
of the nave, should be remarked. The stained- 
glass windows are modern. The cathedral's 
interior is not so imposing as its exterior. Tra- 
dition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once 
stood on the site. The foundation of two tow- 
ers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The 
Rows, covered avenues or galleries through the 
fronts of the second stories of the houses in 
Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge Sts. 
(the old Roman ways), are one of the most 
striking features of Chester. Pennant says that 
these Rows may be a form of building preserved 
from the time that the city was possessed by 
the Romans. "They were the places where de- 
pendants watched for the coming out of their 
patrons, and in which they might walk away 
the tedious minutes of expectation. Plnutus, in 
the third act of his MosteUaria. describes both 
their station and use. The shops beneath the 
Rows were the crypts and apothec?p, maga- 
zines for the various necessaries of the owners 
of the houses." Many of the Rows to-day form 
two terraces, the shops one above the other, 
the galleries reached by flights of steps at con- 



ENGLAND. Eaton Hall. 39 

venient distances. Old Houses, remarkable for 
their curious carvings and for historical asso- 
ciations, are very numerous in Chester. Note 
the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the 
Water Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading 
from Bridge Gate, the house in which Charles 
I. resided during the siege. A Roman sweating- 
bath may be seen in one of the houses of the 
Bridge-St. Row. There are several Roman 
crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- 
cient buildings. The Museum contains Roman 
coins and other objects. The Church of St. John 
the Baptist, dating from the Norman conquest, 
is now an inspiring ruin. 

Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the 
Duke of Westminster, is 3 miles from Chester. 
Tickets of admission to the grounds and mansion 
cost Is. 6d., the proceeds being expended in 
charity. The house is an elaborate structure, 
with a great number of pinnacles and turrets, 
and is 460 feet long The walk thither, over 
Grosvenor Bridge and through the Park, entering 
by a gateway copied from the Abbey Gate at 
Canterbury, is very interesting. The marble 
floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. There 
are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall. 

From Chester important lines of railway radi- 
ate in all directions. The traveller may pro- 
ceed to Liverpool, via Runcorn, crossing the 
celebrated Runcorn Bridge and its viaducts. 
The entire length of this structure is 2 1/6 miles. 
The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Via- 
duct, carried by 33 arches, 1 of 23 ft. span, 29 
of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 ft. span. The viaduct 
is carried over the river Mersey at a height of 
80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported 



40 ENGLAND. Liverpool. 

upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a dis- 
tance 27 3/8 chains. The total cost of the struc- 
ture was £422,400, of which £41,800 was paid for 
land. One may also go from Chester to Birken- 
head, and across from this latter place to Liver- 
pool by ferry ; or he may w^alk through East- 
ham, Bebington, etc., to Rock Ferry, and there 
cross to Liverpool. We recommend a visit to 
Chester from Liverpool for those who have made 
their first entry into Europe at the great sea- 
port. If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their 
aesthetic sense, and disappointed their expecta- 
tions of romance in Europe, Chester will reestab- 
lish their enthusiasm. 

Liverpool (AdelpJii; Northwoitern Railway; 
Lancashire and Yorkshire; St. George; Grand; 
Shaftesbury, temperance. Restaurants : Sains- 
hury's; Bear's Paw; State) is the port at which 
many tourists from the United States first land. 
It is a city of over 750,000 inhabitants, the sec- 
ond seaport in the United Kingdom, and pos- 
sesses the finest docks in the world. See the 
"Chapter for Travellers" for instructions as to 
Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is essentially 
a modern town. In 1561 it was a hamlet ; in 
1644 Prince Rupert called it "a crow's nest" ; 
but in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liver- 
pool's importance dates from the upspringing of 
the cotton manufacture in England. There have 
been years in which the value of its exports has 
been twice as great as that of the exports from 
London ; 30,000 seamen constantly throng its 
quays. Its public buildings are as new as those 
of American cities. There is scarcely one older 
than the present century. 

The Docks, some parts of which may be seen 



ENGLAND. Liveepool. 41 

from the steamers ascending the Mersey, de- 
serve a careful visit. Liverpool lies on the right 
bank of the river Mersey ; opposite it is the im- 
portant town of Birkenhead; and the "silent 
highway" between is thronged with ships from 
every part of the globe. The dock system ex- 
tends from the Herculaneum Graving Dock to 
the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a distance of 6 
M. An electric elevated road, running from Sea- 
forth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole line 
of docks (3d., 2d.). All intervening space is 
filled with docks and quays, two and sometimes 
three deep. The Canning, Salthouse, George's, 
King's, Queen's, and Brunswick Docks, and the 
Queen's and Prince's Half-Tide Basins, were 
constructed between 1717 and 1816. In the 
King's Dock and warehouses are stored and 
bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and 
cigars. Railways communicate by tunnels di- 
rectly with the dock system. The total quay 
space of the Liverpool docks is estimated at 26 
M. ; of the basins, 8 M. ; and the total water 
area of the docks, 389 acres. The Prince's Land- 
ing Stage is a noble work. It is said that 
nearly 1/3 of the trade of the port is with 
the United States. The town possesses 1/10 
' of the shipping of Great Britain, 1/3 of the 
) foreign trade, 1/6 of the general commerce, and 
; more than 1/2 as much as the port of Lon- 
f don. 

[ St. George's Hall is one of the most con- 
j spicuous objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and 
[ imposing structure, completed in 1851, and con- 
! tains the Assize Courts, an immense hall for 
public meetings, and a concert room. The por- 
tico on the S. is very fine. It surmounts a 



42 ENGLAND. Liverpool. 

pedestal of noble steps, 150 feet wide, terminat- 
ing in a pediment, the tympanum of which is 
enriched by sculptures representing Britannia 
offering the olive branch, with the lion at her 
side and the Mersey flowing at her feet. Mer- 
cury is represented as leading to her from the 
other side Asia. Europe, Africa, and America. 
In the great hall is one of the largest organs 
in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 pipes.- 
See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown 
Court. In front of St. George's Hall are stat- 
ues of the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. 
Four stone lions guard the principal entrance 
to the area between the hall and Lime-St. Not 
far away is the Alexandra Theatre. The Wel- 
lington Monument, cast from cannon taken at 
Waterloo, is also near St. George's Hall. A 
little to the N. is Broicn's Free Pi(J)Ue Library 
and Museum, built at the expense of the late 
Sir William Brown. Near by is the Walker Fine 
Arts Gallery. 

The Municipal Offices, in Dale-St. the Toim 
Hall the Exchange, which covers two acres in 
the commercial quarter, are handsome edifices. 
On the Exchange Flags, where the merchants 
meet, stands a bronze statue of Nelson, by West- 
macott. aS'^ John's Market, a vast structure, is 
on Great Charlotte-St. The Custom House and 
Post-Office, at the junction of Strand-St. and 
Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for 
the storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors* 
Home, close by. 

Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The 
Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane. The Corn Ex- 
change, on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Church, 
the only real antiquity in Liverpool. The orig- 



ENGLAND. Birkenhead. 43 

inal chapel was built in the time of William the 
Conqueror. In old times a statue of St. NicJiolas, 
patron of mariners, stood in the yard. The 
church was restored in 1774. The tower facing 
the S. side was erected as one of a series of 
"signal steeples." Prince's and Stmiley Parks; 
from the latter a good view of the sea and the 
Cumberland Hills. St. James' Cemetery, formerly 
a stone quarry, and filled for Its present pur- 
pose at an expense of £20,000. The Maiisoleutn 
of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park: purchased 
at a cost of £450,000 from the Earl of Sefton. 
Estates and Residences of NoWemen near Liv- 
erpool: Knowsley Hall, owned by the Earl 
of Derby (see the Stanley portraits there) ; 
Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Sefton's seat; Child- 
wall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of Salis- 
bury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool 
to Neiv Brighton, down the river by ferry-boat 
from the George's Landing stage ; and to East- 
hafn, a pretty pleasure-resort. 

Preston {Park; Alea-ander, temperance), about 
35 miles from Liverpool, with 130.000 inhabit- 
ants, contains many cotton mills. It was here 
that the modern temperance movement in Great 
Britain began. Twenty miles further is Lan- 
caster (King's Arms), the county seat of Lan- 
cashire, with 50,000 inhabitants. If a stop is 
made here the Storey Art Gallery, the Corpora- 
i tion Buildings, and the Castle, not the jail, may 
be visited. 

Birkenhead (Queen's Hotel; Woodside), an 
I essentially modern town of about 115,000 in- 
i habitants, is near the mouth of the Mersey, on 
i the S. shore facing Liverpool. Constant com- 
I munication by steam ferries and the new tunnel 



44 ENGLAND. Grange. — Fubness Abbey. 

under the Mersey. Ship-building is the main 
industry. The docks cover 500 acres. Here are 
the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the Ala- 
hama was built. The Church, which overlooks 
the river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, 
founded in Henry II. 's reign. 

The English Lake District. 

Those persons who desire to visit the English 
Lakes and to proceed thence to Scotland, before 
going up to London, will find Liverpool their 
best point of departure. From Liverpool to 
Windermere the distance is 87i M. This route 
is through Wigan, Preston, and Lancaster to 
Oxenholme Junction^ where a good view of 
Kendal, the largest town in Westmoreland, is 
obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- 
way to Windermere, whence excursions can be 
made in all directions. But we think the Amer- 
ican tourist would find it interesting to enter 
this beautiful region by another route, as fol- 
lows : Take ticket from Liverpool to Grange. 
You pass through Wigan, Preston, and Lan- 
caster, and a little beyond this last place change 
at Carnforth Junction. The railway thence to 
Grange carries you across arms of Morecambe 
Bay, and beside wild stretches of quicksand, 
where hundreds of lives have been lost. Grange 
{Grange Hotel, a charming house on the slope 
of a wooded hill) is called the "Torquay of the 
North." Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and 
it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, 
once a Roman station, is near by. From Grange 
an excursion should be made to Furness Abbey, 
by the railway passing through Ulverston, 



ENGLAND. Fueness Abbey. 45 

Lindal, Dalton, and other points in the rich 
Furness mining district, and terminating at the 
important town of Barrow. Tourists will be 
well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- 
cursion may be made in an afternoon by those 
who have left Liverpool for Grange in the morn- 
ing. "The Royal Abbey of St. Mary of Furness" 
was founded in 1127, in Henry I.'s reign, by 
Stephen, his successor on the throne of Eng- 
land. The monks of the Cistercian order grew 
rapidly rich and powerful. The abbots of Fur- 
ness were lords in Parliament, and had their 
little army. The ruin is now the property of the 
Duke of Devonshire. The roofless church, the 
lavishly decorated chapter-house, the scrip- 
torium, and the refectory contain many inter- 
esting memorials. The E. window is preserved 
in the sanctuary at Bowness; it is a superb 
specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness 
Abbey Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rail- 
way lie beds of hematite iron ore, from which 
about 600,000 tons are annually taken. From 
Ulverston (County; Sun), the capital of Fur- 
ness, a branch line leads to Lake Side, on Wind- 
ermere Lake. One can also go directly from 
Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the 
head of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of 
Northwestern and Midland Railways, and local 
guide-books, for a host of details concerning 
round trips, circular tickets, etc. HolJcer Hall, 
a residence of the Duke of Devonshire, may be 
visited on the way back from Furness Abbey to 
Grange. Stop at Cm^Jc, and walk to the Hall, 1 
M. The Hall and park are on the Leven, flow- 
ing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming 
Sands up to and through sweet and romantic 



46 ENGLAND. Windermere Lake. 

walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven 
HolJcer Village, with its cottages nestling among 
rose-trees and fuchsias, and on to Cartmel and 
its ancient Priory. Holli;er Hall contains a fine 
collection of paintings, and the park is well 
stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited 
from Grange. It is on the E. side of the river 
Kent. The gardens on the estate were laid out 
by Beaumont, James II. 's famous gardener. Re- 
turning to Grange, sleep there, and take the 
coach or motor-car next morning for Newby 
Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Winder- 
mere) at about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is 
delightful. At Newbj' Bridge the time-honored 
and picturesque Swan Inn should be noticed. At 
Lake Side, where the train from Ulverston comes 
in (Lake Side Hotel), one may take the steam- 
yacht which plies regularly on the waters of 
Windermere, stopping at the Ferry (5 M.), 
Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead (11 M.). This 
last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the 
lake ; and at Ambleside one is in the very heart 
of the Lake region. A party of four persons 
would find it worth their while to hire a car- 
riage or automobile at Grange, and drive first 
to Newby Bridge; thence to Lake Side; then 
across from Windermere Lake, past Esthwaitc 
Water (around which Wordsworth used to walk 
when he was attending school near by), 
through the old town of Haukshcad, down to 
the Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake; and 
from that point over the Oxenfell, past Skel- 
with Bridge and Elter Water and Brathay, 
into Ambleside. This can be done easily in 5 or 
6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a 
bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston 



ENGLAND. Windermere Lake. 47 

and the approach to Ambleside afford two of 
the loveliest views in England. Make special 
bargain for conveyances ; driver receives fee of 
2s. to 3s. 6d. We advise tourists to hasten to 
Ambleside, and make their excursions from 
there. The Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Trout- 
beck, and Rusland Vales may be best visited 
from Windermere Village or Bowness ; but every- 
thing else of importance is most accessible from 
Ambleside.* 

Windermere Lake is 10^ M. long and 1 M. 
broad in its widest part. It is 134 feet above 
the sea-level, and varies in depth from 90 to 
240 feet. Opposite Bowness there is a group 
of about a dozen small islands. The surround- 
ing hills rarely rise above 1,000 feet. At a few 
yards from the head of the lake, the rivers 
Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. There 
are no such rich effects of color, no such bold 
and magnificent mountain masses, as on the 
shores of the Swiss lakes ; but there is a be- 
wildering richness of Northern vegetation, and 
a constant succession of beautiful landscapes 
such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, 
to row yourself, Is, an hr. ; with boatman. Is. 
6d. per hr. ; for the day, 5s., with boatman, 
10s.). 

Bowness (Croimi; Royal; Belsfielcl; Stag's 
Head; Old England) is on a pleasant bay, and 
commands good views of the upper reaches of 
the lake. Ancient parish church here. Coaches 
every morning in summer for Coniston ; and for 

* The traveller will find pocket editions of Wordsworth 
and Southey excellent companions; also, Prof. Wm. 
Knight's "The English Lake District, as interpreted in 
the Poems of Wordsworth," price 5s. 



48 ENGLAND. Windermere. — Ambleside. 

Patterdale by the Troutbeck. Vale and Kirk- 
stone Pass. 

Windermere (Rigg's Wmdermere Hotel) is 
li M. from the lake by road, ^ M. by footpath, 
and 5 M. from Ambleside. Coach each morning 
in summer to Patterdale. Fine view from Orrest 
Head, 783 feet high (i hr.'s walk). 

Ambleside (Queen's; Salvation; White Lion; 
Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from 
the head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situa- 
tion at the foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses 
often to Grasmere and to head of lake; and 
coaches for Keswick, and thrice daily for Wind- 
ermere. Ambleside is picturesque, although the 
inhabitants build ugly residences out of the slate 
which abounds in the neighborhood. The park- 
like vale of Rothay, with its rich woods and 
pretty vistas of green fields, seems made for the 
home of contemplation. The new church of St. 
Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a 
charming location. We give a number of short 
excursions within walking distance, out of 
which the tourist must choose those which strike 
his fancy. To the Stock Ghyll Force (water- 
fall, 70 feet high), within the Salutation Hotel 
grounds. The distances mentioned below are 
computed from the "Salutation." To Rydal 
Mount, church, and Falls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and 
Wansfell Pike, 3 M. ; to the top of Kirkstone 
Pass, 4 M. ; to Grasmere, under Loughrigg Fell, 
and back by Nab Scar, 9 M. ; to Clappersgate, 

1 M. ; Brathay church, 2 M. ; Low Wood Hotel, 

2 M. ; Troutbeck church, 4 M. ; Langdale church, 
5 M. Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, 
Furness Abbey, and Windermere Lake and for 



ENGLAND. Coniston Lake. 49 

the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or 
at Bowness. They are available for 7 days. ■ 

Coniston Lake, 5i M. long, f M. broad, is 164 
feet deep in some places Its surroundings are 
fine, and the view down upon it from some 
neighboring mountain is charming. A steam 
yacht plies up and down the lake 3 times daily 
(round trip Is. 6d.). Excursions up Coniston 
Old Man (2577 feet), Wetherlam, and Black 
Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist. 

The Langdale tour is made daily by coach in 
6 hours. The drive is from Ambleside to Rothay 
Bridge, i M. ; Skelwith Bridge, 3 ; Culwith Force, 
4^ ; Smithy Houses, 5^ ; Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; 
Chapel Stile, 12^; High Close, 14; Grasmere Ch., 
15^ ; Ambleside, 19^. Much of the scenery visited 
on this drive is described in Wordsworth's "Ex- 
cursion." 

Private Carriage Excursions from Amdleside, 
recommended to tourists who have time at their 
disposition. — To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, 
Brothers' Water, and back (an exceedingly in- 
teresting drive, abounding in Tsald and romantic 
scenery), 24 M. ; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. 
To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere. Dun- 
mail Raise, Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 
M. ; or back by St. John's Vale, 37 M. To Con- 
iston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawshead, Blel- 
ham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. 
To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawks- 
head, Esthwaite Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle 
to Ambleside, 23 M. ; or across the Ferry and 
oack to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. Around 
Wmdermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, the 
Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back 
3y the E. side of Windermere, Bowness to Am- 



50 ENGLAND. Ullswater Lake. 

bleside, 30 M. Around Langdale by Clappers- 
gate, Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, Little Lang- 
dale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red 
Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M. ; 
or direct by Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappers- 
gate to Skelwitb, Longbrigg, Tarn, Higb Close, 
Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 12 
M. To tbe top of Kirkstone, back by vale of 
Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M. ; or back by 
Cook's House, 15 M. To Bo^Yness, back by 
Windermere, Cook's House, Vale of Troutbeck, 
and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawksbead, back by 
Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M. 

From Ambleside to Ullswater Lake. 

Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from 
Ambleside or from Keswick. During tbe tourist 
season a coach leaves Ambleside for Patterdale 
at 10 a. m. daily. The route through Amble- 
side to the Kirkstone Pass passes in front of 
the Salutation Hotel, and branches to the right, 
passing the old church. Here and there it is 
very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. 
Below, on the right, is the Stock Ghyll, on 
opposite side of which is Wansfell Ghyl, on 
the opposite side of which is Wansfell Pike. 
The inn at the top of tlie Pass, called the Trar- 
ellers' Rest, is said to be the highest inn in En.: 
land. It stands 1,475 feet above the sea-level 
Travellers, independent of the coach, had bett* i 
drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up tl] 
bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall « i 
Troutbeck, to the top of the Pass. Descendiiii: 
from the Travellers' Rest, yop pass on the left 
the Kirk Stone, which looks, perhaps, a triti* 



ENGLAND. Ullswatee Lake. 51 

like a church from a point half-way down the 
mountain towards Brothers' Water, a little lake, 
named from the drowning of two brothers in 
its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you 
can see the flames from the blast furnaces in 
the Barrow district, and catch a glimpse of the 
Irish Sea. The Dove Crags, beyond the Broth- 
ers' Water Hotel, are extremely picturesque. 

Patterdale (Patterdale Hotel; White Lion) 
stands in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards 
from the head of the lake. 1 M. farther on are 
-the Ullsicater Hotel and the Glenriclding (tem- 
perance). The scenery all about this point is 
rich and varied. The view from the windows 
of the Ullswater Hotel over the lake, with its 
woody shores and its islands, is very beautiful. 
(Fares for tour on Ullswater Lake, by steam 
yacht, 3s. and 2s.) The boats call at How- 
town, and next land passengers close to Pooley 
Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains 
I at Penrith. From Penrith, rail to Keswick. 
I Ullswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and 
' 210 feet deep. The upper reach of the lake is 
the most beautiful Many people prefer this to 
Lake Derwentwater. See Lyulpli's Toicer and 
i; Ira Force, a waterfall 80 feet high. This cas- 
I cade is the scene of the incident on which 
I Wordsworth's poem of the Somnambulist is 
ii founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ulls- 
[ water usually takes 2f hours. Wordsworth in- 
tended to make his home at a cottage under 
Place Fell, near Patterdale; but the owner 
asked more than the prudent man thought it 
: was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. The 
places in the Ullswater district associated with 
the poet are best approached by the road from 



52 ENGLAND. Rydal. 

Grasinere to Helvellyn, leading past Girdsdale 
Tarn. 

From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal Mount 
and Grasmere. 

Those persons who have not taken the Lang- 
dale Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere 
from Ambleside, may visit the old homes and 
the grave of Wordsworth on their way to Kes- 
wick. The coaches stop at the places of interest. 
The road out of Ambleside leads past the KnoU^ 
and the ivy-covered residence in which Harriet 
Martineau lived for a long time. This house 
is on the left. Thence the route lies up the 
Rothay valley to Rydal. Note Fox Hoic, Dr. 
Arnold's old residence to the left, beyond the 
Rothay. A steep road on the right leads out of 
Rydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth spent 
37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. 
As many as possible of the memorials of the ix»et 
in his home have been preserved unaltered ; 
but the old picturesque frontage with its 12 
windows and the ash-tree, near which hung the 
"osier cage" of the doves, are gone. The present 
owner of the house declines to show it. The 
location is extremely beautiful. Rydal Falls are 
at the back of Rydal Hall.. Guide at cottage be- 
low the church. Returning to the main road, 
the traveller passes through the gorge between 
Nab Scar on the right and Loughrigg Fell on 
the left ; see on the right Nal> Cottage, in which 
Hartley Coleridge lived for a long time, and 
where he died ; and reaches Rydal Watet% one 
of the most diminutive of the lakes. From this 
point it is but a short distance to the delight- 



ENGLAND. Grasmere. 53 

fully situated Ch'asmere Lake. It is 1 M. long 
and i M. broad. An island of 4 acres' area lies 
in its centre. Grasmere (Rothay; Swan; Red 
Lion; Prince of Wales, on the lake) lies mainly 
at the N. end of the lake, although many of the 
newer residences border on the highway. Knight 
says : "The cottage at the town end of Gras- 
mere, to which Worda(worth oame with his 
sister in the last days of the last century, is, 
even more than Rydal Mount, identified with 
his poetic prime. It had once been a public 
house, bearing the sign of the Dove and Olive 
Bough, from which circumstance it was for a 
long time, and is still, occasionally named 'Dove 
Cottage.' It is a small, two-storied house." (See 
De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of 
the Lakes," pp. 131, 137.)* Grasmere Church 
is the one which Wordsworth drew in "The Ex- 
cursion," and in its cemetery he lies buried. 
The interior is as the poet described it ; there 
are the "naked rafters intricately crossed," the 

* The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth 
are: Grasmere, where he lived so long, and is buried; 
Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days with his 
sister, by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at 
Lancrigg, where "The Prelude" was written; Rydal 
Mount, where he lived the latter half of his life, and 
found one of the most perfect retreats in England; and 
the old (upper) path between Rydal and Grasmere, under 
Nab Scar, his favorite walk during his later years, where 
he composed hundreds of verses. There is scarcely a 
rock or mountain-summit, a stream or tarn, or even a 
well, a grove, or a forest-side, in all that neighborhood, 
which is not imperishably associated with that poet, who 
at once interpreted them as they had never been inter- 
preted before, and added 

"The gleam, 
The light that never was on sea or land. 
The consecration, and the poet's drearn." 



54 ENGLAND. Keswick. 

oaken benches, the "heraldic shield" in the "altar 
window," etc. After a visit to the church you 
can find some very lovely rambles in the vicinity. 
The road to Keswick climbs Dunmail Raise 
Pass, with Steel Fell on the left and Seat Sandal 
on the right, and crosses the boundary between 
Cumberland and Westmoreland. Descending on 
the other side, Thirlmere Lake appears, with 
Mt. Helvellyn on the right and part of Skiddaw 
in the distance. The coach stops at the inn at 
Wythburn. The church at Wythburn is one of 
the smallest in England. From hence the ascent 
of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height, 3,118 feet ; 
distance to top from Wythburn, 2^ hours. Thirl- 
mere Lake, which supplies Manchester with 
water, is 2\ M. long, and very narrow. From 
the W. shore many lovely views may be ob- 
tained. From an elevation in the road just be- 
yond this point, Blencathara may be seen. The 
rich Vale of St. .John also opens its charming 
vistas on the right ; and not far from the King's 
Head Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock, 
the fairy castle of Sir Walter Scott's "Bridal 
of Triermain." is obtained. An uninteresting 
stretch of country comes next ; after which the 
traveller is gratified with one of the most ex- 
quisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the Der- 
went Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions 
of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes. 

Keswick (Kestcick, at the station; Royal Oak; 
Queens; George; Lake Skicldaiv, temperance) 
is surrounded by a noble company of mountains, 
with Skiddaw, the chief. 3.058 feet, towering 
above them. It is a handsome little town, and 
one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- 
hood. l.M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake 



ENGLAND. Derwentwater Lake. 55 

Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Derwent- 
water Hotel.. 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore 
Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which 
Southey celebrated in verse. The Barrow and 
Lodore Waterfalls, the Bowder Stone, Corrow- 
dale Valley, Honister Pass, Buttermere and 
Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, and the New- 
lands Valley may be seen on the excursion called 
the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- 
veyed in open wagonettes through this pleasant 
series of sylvan and lake scenery. Borrotcdale 
is considered one of the finest valleys in Great 
Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- 
wick is interesting, but fatiguing. 

Derwentwater Lake lies 238 feet above the 
sea level ; is 80 feet deep in the centre, 3 M. 
long and 1^ M. wide. From the Friar's Crag, 
on this Lake, there is a magnificent outlook. 
There are several islands, one of which, St. Her- 
bert, was occupied by a hermit monk in the 7th 
century. On Rampshohne Island, the Earls of 
Derwentwater once had a mansion ; and from it 
Lady Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the 
family jewels, to procure the release of the 
Earl, who was imprisoned in the Tower of Lon- 
don for taking part in the rebellion of 1715. For 
those pressed for time, a drive round Derwent- 
water Lake will give a view of the principal 
points of scenery. BussenthwaUe Lake begins 
about 3 M. N. of the foot of Derwentwater. It 
is 4 M. long and about f M. wide. The river 
Derwent, which carries the waters from the 
Derwent and Keswick Lakes, enters it at its 
head, and leaves it at its foot, flowing past 
Cockermouth and into the sea. Bassenthwaite 
has three promontories on its E. side, which is 



56 ENGLAND. Geeta Hall. 

overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often vis- 
ited by tourists, because it lies on the N. out- 
skirt of the Lake District; but it is well worth 
seeing. 

Greta Hall, where the poet Southey spent the 
best part of his life, is a short distance from 
Keswick. Walk down the main street to the 
bridge crossing the river Greta, whence a good 
view may be had of the Hall. It stands on the 
right surrounded by trees. From this point to 
Crosthwaite Church is a pleasant walk, and 
in the church yard is Southey's grave. The 
edifice contains a monument to the lau- 
reate, consisting of a full-length figure. The 
poetical inscription was written by Words- 
worth. In the chancel is a monument to Sir 
John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the Earls 
of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. 
A footpath through the meadow called Houray 
was one of Southey's favorite walks. From 
this point fine view of the magnificent group 
of mountains on the N., the huge mass of Skid- 
daw ; on the E., Wallow Crag ; and to the S., 
the Borrowdale mountains. The lead-pencil 
manufactories near Keswick merit a visit ; so 
does an ingenious model of the Lake District in 
a museum in the town. From Castle Head, ^ 
M. outside Keswack, most of Bassenthwaite 
Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the whole of 
the intervening valle3% and Mt. Skiddaw may 
be seen. St. John and Crosthwaite Chs. may 
also be seen from this point. Unless the weather 
is fine, it is useless to hope for any satisfactory 
view of the mountains. Even in midsummer 
the front of Skiddaw is overhung with mists 
for a large part of the time. About li M. from 



ENGLAND. Carlisle. 57 

Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith 
road, are the Druids' Stones, formed of 38 
stones, the largest of which is upwards of 7 
feet high. Near by are the towering heights 
of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, and, 
in the distance to the W., an impressive range. 

Ascent of Skiddaw from Kesivick. — The dis- 
tance to the top is about 5| M. ; time, there and 
back, 4-6 hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. 
A guide is usually necessary from Skiddaw to 
the summit of Blencathara ; distance, about 6 
M. ; ground in places very wet. 

The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which 
course we recommend) , via Penrith and Carlisle ; 
or can return to Liverpool (fares from Kes- 
wick, 39s. 2d., 27s. 2d., 18s.), and thence go to 
London by the North Western Railway, arriv- 
ing at Euston station ; the Midland, arriving at 
St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, arriving at 
King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriving at 
Paddington station. (Fares, by all the lines 29s., 
21s. 9d., 16s. 9d. ; distance, 201f M.) 

From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland. 

From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. Penrith 
{George; Croicn) is charmingly situated. Ex- 
cursions may be made to Brougham Castle and 
Hall. Arthur's Round Ta'ble. Loicther Castle, and 
the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curi- 
ous old drinking-glass called the "Luck of Eden 
Hall." See ruins of Penrith Castle, a favorite 
residence of Richard III. In the cemetery of 
the parish church is the Gianfs Grave, an an- 
cient mysterious mound. 

Carlisle (County and Station Hotel; Crown 



58 ENGLAND. Carlisle. 

cmd Mitre; G-rahwm's, temperance), 18 M. from 
Penrith and 8 M. from the Scottish border, is 
the capital of Cumberland. It dates back to 
the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian's 
wall. In the early wars between England and 
Scotland it was of great importance. The Castle 
was built by William Rufus, Within it Mary 
Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. The 
Cathedral does not stand in the front rank; but 
its E. window is commonly said to be the largest 
and finest in the Kingdom. The church was 
originally part of a Norman priory, built of 
red freestone. It contains a monument to Dr. 
Paley, Archdeacon of Carlisle. Note the old 
glass of the time of Richard II., in the E. win- 
dow, and the exquisite details of the flamboy- 
ant Gothic work. The walls and windows of 
the choir are Norman ; the upper part of the 
choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Deco- 
rated. See the old abbey gate-house ; the refec- 
tory, now used as the chapter-house ; quaint 
houses in the market-place ; and the Mo(jt Hall. 

Beyond Carlisle the railway enters the De- 
batable Qround, where for centuries the border- 
ers waged war on each other. A little farther 
on is Ecclefecham (Scotland), where Thomas 
Carlyle was born and is buried. The railway 
crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : 

"March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, 
All the blue bonnets are over the border." 



SCOTLAND. The Land of Burns. 59 



SCOTLAND. 

SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, 
which is the boundary between England 
and Scotland, the route passes Gretna Junction^ 
near which is Gretna Green, formerly the resort 
of runaway couples anxious to be married. 
These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- 
ference between the English and Scotch law, 
were first celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist 
named Paisley. In 1856 they were suppressed 
by act of Parliament. Annan Junction was the 
scene of the spirited escape of King Edward 
Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of Archibald 
Douglas. It was the birthplace of Edward Irving, 
in 1792. 

The Land of Burns 

can be visited from Glasgow; but it will be 
more satisfactory to go from Carlisle to Dum- 
fries, pass the night, and then proceed to Ayr. 
The excursion may be made in a day. 

Dumfries (Station; Woodhaiik Mansion; Com- 
mercial; King's Arms) is 32| M. from Carlisle. 
Here Burns lived for several years, and here 
he died, at the house now known as Burns's. He 
also lived for 18 months after he became an 
exciseman, at the foot of Bank-St. His Mauso- 
leum is in St. Michael's Church-yard ; in the 
vault beneath, lie Burns and his wife and son. 
The Greyfriars Church deserves a visit. Most 



60 SCOTLAND. Dumfries. 

readers of Scott will remember the story of 
Greyfriars Monastery and of "Kirkpatrick's 
bloody work." Dumfries is the capital of Niths- 
dale, and its people call it "The Queen of the 
South." From a border hamlet of the 8th cen- 
tury, with a Franciscan convent and a castle, it 
has grown into a prosperous port and factory 
town. Excursion from Dumfries : — To Linclu- 
den Abbey, ipi-, beautiful ruins of a 12th-cen- 
turj' Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort 
of Burns. Amid this sylvan beauty he com- 
posed his "Vision of Libertie." — To New or 
Sweetheart Abbey, a lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. 
The Lady Devorgilla, who built the abbey (for 
Cistercians), in 1284, embalmed the heart 
(whence the name) of her husband, John Bal- 
liol, and had it built in over the high altar. 
Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the mon- 
asterj" for Franciscan friars, before whose altar 
Robert the Bruce slew the Red Comyn ; and the 
old bridge across the Nith. — To Ten-cgles (3 M.) 
and Irongray (5 M.), in whose ch.-yard is a 
handsome monument erected by Scott to the 
memory of Helen Walker (Jeannie Deans). 
Irongray is the scene of "The Recreations of a 
Country Parson." — To EUisland farm, where 
Burns wrote "Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful 
ode "To Mary in Heaven." 13 M. from Dum- 
fries is the extraordinary architectural pile of 
Drumlanrig Castle, built by William, first Duke 
of Queensberrj', who wasted princely sums on 
it. TortJioricall Castle is a massive ruin, 4 M. 
from Dundee. Caerlaverock Castle, (9 M.) is a 
grand old fortress on the Solway Firth, described 
in "Guy Mannering." Lochmahcn, RuthicclU and 
venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennau Ab- 



SCOTLAND. Mauchline.— Ayr. 61 

bey and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. 
Tourists who wish to view the extreme S. coast 
of Scotland should go to Stranraer from Dum- 
fries (69 M.) ; and from Stanraer by rail to 
Ayr and Glasgow. Those who would make only 
a short stop at Dumfries should buy a ticket 
from Carlisle to Mauchline (8| M., fares, 13s. 
8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9^.). At Mauchline (Loudoun 
Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns ; his 
faian of Mossgiel is 1^ M. N. ; there he was mar- 
ried to Jean Armour ; there his plough turned 
up the mouse's nest. In Mauchline is "Poosie 
Nansie's" cottage, celebrated for the meeting of 
the "Jolly Beggars." If you have time, walk 
through woods and fields from Mauchline to 
Montgomerie, There stands the pretty mansion 
where once "Highland Mary" lived as an hum- 
ble dairymaid. From Mauchline a branch line, 
11 M. long, leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; 
DalNair), to which many pilgrims go to pay 
homage to Burns. It is on the sea-coast, at the 
mouth of the river Ayr. See the "Twa Brigs" 
of Burns's poem. The Auld Brig (now only a 
footpath) dates from the reign of Alexander III., 
in the 13th century ; the new bridge, from 1877. 
A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing a statue 
of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in 
which the hero is said to have been confined. 
Cromwell built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a 
few fragments remain. Take a carriage or the 
train to Burns's Cottage,the Monument, and Allo- 
way Kirk Walk down through the long and 
exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In 
this rude home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 
1759. One room has been transformed into a 
kind of museum, and there some of the poet's 



62 SCOTLAND. Alloway.— Maybole. 

original MSS. and other memorials may be seen. 
Not far beyond is Alloway Kirk, roofless and 
desolate. The walls are in a fair state of preser- 
vation, and the bell remains ; but the woodwork 
has been all used up for memorials. New Allo- 
way Ch. is on the other side of the road. Thero 
is little to see in the "auld haunted kirk," so gu 
on to the bridge over the "Bonny Doon," built 
since Burns's time ; up stream you will see the 
"Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan- 
ter." An excursion along the Beautiful Doon in 
the summer-time is most delightful. The Burns 
Monument stands near the new bridge. ' See. 
on the ground-floor, memorials of the poet, and 
the Bible which he gave to "Highland Mary." 
Good view from upper part of monument. Note 
the statues of Tam O'Shanter and Souter John- 
nie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of Ayr lies a country 
in which Burns laid the scene of many poems. 
It is accessible only by rural teams or on foot. 
Mt Oliphant, where Burns lived when a child, 
and Tarbolton, where he passed his early man- 
hood, and where he wrote "John Barleycorn," 
"Now, whistling winds," etc., are but a few 
miles from Alloway. 

A rly. runs S. 9 miles from Ayr to Maybole 
{King's Arms, Commercial), the old capital of 
Carrick, and the scene of Scott's "Ayrshire 
Tragedy," near which are the rich ruins of 
Crossraguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and 
Dunure Castle; also the splendid Culzean Castle, 
where the Earls of Cassilis have held court for 
centuries, on cliffs over the sea. 7 M. S. of 
Maybole are the ruins of Tjirnherry Castle, made 
famous by Robert Bruce and Walter Scott. 22 
M. by rail from Ayr is Girvan {King's Arms), 10 



SCOTLAND. Troon.— Paisley. 63 

miles off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises 
from the sea, 1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. 
The rly. runs farther S. to Portpatrick ; Stran- 
raer ; Glenluce, near the ruins of Luce Abbey 
founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey ; picturesque 
little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the scene 
of Scott's "Bride of Lammermoor ;" and other 
localities famous in the chronicles of the bor- 
ders and the sea — the Bruce, the Wallace, and 
the Covenanters. 

Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in 
an afternoon. Leaving Ayr for Glasgow, in 6^ 
M. the train reaches Troon, the chief seaport 
and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the 
great ruins of Dundonald Castle, the home of 
the founder of the Stuart dynasty ; a branch 
line runs (9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Burns's 
poems were first published. Beyond Troon, the 
Glasgow train passes Irvive, where the poet 
Montgomery was born, where Burns lived for a 
time, and where Robert Bruce surrendered to 
the English army under Percy. 3^ M. farther 
on is Kiln-fnnmg, with the ruins of an ancient 
priory, famous in Masonic annals ; and also the 
imposing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Mont- 
gomeries. 

Paisley (yew Globe; Country), contains a 
magnificent Town Hall ; a jail, which looks like a 
palace ; a museum of local antiquities and relics : 
and the Adhey Church, founded in 1169. In the 
Reformation, Paisley was noted for its intense 
devotion to the Catholic religion. The chapel of 
the abbey contains a "sounding aisle." so-called 
from its remarkable echo. The nave, which re- 
mains entire, is used as a parish ch. Paisley 
(once a Roman fortress) was of no importance 



64 SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 

until the last century ; but now its trade includes 
weaving, shawls, and thread-making (the estab- 
lishments of Coats, and Clark & Co. are the 
largest of their kind in the world). "Christo- 
pher North" was born here. Not far from Pais- 
ley is the farm of Moorhouse, where Robert Pol- 
lok. author of "The Course of Time," was born, 
in 1798. See Crookston Castle, where Queen 
Mary was betrothed to Darnley, half-way be- 
tween Paisley and 

Glasgow. 

(Hotels: St. Enoch's, l^orth British, Central; 
station hotels : Windsor; Gockhurn, Osborne, 
temperance). The American tourist will find a 
vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the 
second city in population (8G0.0OO) and commer- 
cial importance in Great Britain. A small Ro- 
man colony once occuped this site. About the 
year 560 St. Mungo founded a religious house 
here, and the village was nurtured by the Church 
for a thousand years. At the Reformation Glas- 
gow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and in 1708 it had 
12,776. But towards the end of the 18th century 
it began to increase enormously, and in 1901 the 
population was 760,000. The imix>rtation of to- 
bacco from Virginia and Maryland was long one 
of the chief branches of industry. To-day, this 
town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liverpool in 
shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, New- 
castle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron 
ship-building, and Wolverhampton in iron fur- 
naces. The perseverance of the Scotch in con- 
verting the Clyde into a vast harbor, cannot be 
too much admired. Glasgow was the first city 



SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 65 

in Europe to possess a regular line of steam- 
boats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed the 
Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. 
It was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected 
his famous invention. In 1718 the first ship, a 
little craft of 60 tons, left Glasgow for the New 
World. Glasgow has made extensive and suc- 
cessful experiments in municipal ownership, hav- 
ing under its own management the tramway 
lines and the. gas works as well as the water 
works. 

Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, 
from which there is a fine view of the Broomie- 
law Harbor. It is 400 ft. wide, and extends 
down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side 
by superb ranges of docks, along which ships are 
laid three or four deep. From the Bridge up- 
stream a good view of the Custom House on the 
N. bank is commanded. Most of the excursion 
steamers start from the Broomielaw quay on 
the N. bank of the Clyde. The works on the 
Clyde have cost £8,500.000, or $42,500,000. In 
1760 James Watt reported a maximum depth of 
water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. Now. 
as the result of the constant dredging, vessels 
drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow 
is in the famous Lanarkshire black district, 
which has a great coal-field, rich also in seams 
of ironstone. There are so many blast furnaces 
here that the sky to the S. and S. E. is lighted 
I up nightly with their glow as if by a great con- 
f. flagration. 

The E. section of the city includes the main 
business part, and the objects of antiquities in- 
terest. The W. is the section for residences of 
I fashionable i^eople ; and on the S. are the great 



66 SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 

public works. Buchanan St. is handsomely built 
and contains the finest shops and offices. Argyle 
St., 3 M. long (including Trongate and Gallow- 
gate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. is 
an avenue extending the whole length of the city 
and passing through George Square. This is a 
central point, and lies close to the two principal 
rly, stats. In the centre stands the Scott Monu- 
ment, a fluted column surmounted by a gigantic 
statue. On the E. and W. are equestrian bronze 
statues of Queen Victoria and the Prince Con- 
sort. There are also figures of James Watt, by 
Chantrey; the exquisite statue of Sir John 
Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Flaxman ; one 
of Dr. Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to 
Campbell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert 
Burns, Lord Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the 
S. is the General Post-Office, plain but spacioug; 
and on the E. are the municipal buildings. 
The Bank of Scotland and the Merchants' House 
occupy the W. side. The Royal Exchange is in 
the Corinthian style, with rich colonades.- 
Strangers are admittel to the news-room, 130 
ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. 
See Hutcheson's Hospital. Corinthian buildings 
with a high tower, founded in 1641 by two broth- 
ers ; and also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow 
AssemMy Rooms; also David's Ch. and the 
Mitchell Library. In Argyle-St., at the so-called 
Cross of Glasgow, whence High-St., Gallwcgate, 
London-St., and Saltmarket diverge, stands an 
equestrian statue of William III. At the corner 
of the High-St. and Trongate formerly stood the 
old Court House, in front of which criminals 
were executed, and the ancient jail, of which 
Walter Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a 



SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 67 

relic of the old municipal splendor. Walk up 
High-St. on the E, side from the Trongate to 
the Cathedral. See old Glasgow vollege (built 
1632-52, in quaint and gloomy monastic forms), 
now a railway station. Opposite, at the corner 
of High and College Sts., is the house in which 
Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther 
on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where 
in 1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice 
their number of Englishmen, and Wallace clove 
Lord Percy's head in twain ; and a little beyond 
this is the homely Barony Gh., once in charge of 
Dr. Norman MacLeod. 

The Cathedral is famous as one of the two 
Catholic chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of 
the Reformation. The Presbyterian ministers 
prevailed on the magistrates in 1579 to have it 
torn down ; but the corporations of the city rose 
in arms, and prevented it. Two stone "idols" 
were taken out of their nooks and broken to 
pieces, as Scott has told us, "and the auld Kirk 
stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are 
kaimed ofiC her, and a'body was alike pleased." 
Open daily, except Sun., 10-6. This noble struc- 
ture is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mungo, 
the founder of the see of Glasgow, who was 
buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The 
edifice is picturesquely located; and above it, 
on terraces almost oriental in their construction, 
arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the 
city, with rich shrubberies and crowds of monu- 
ments; approached from the cathedral by the 
Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monu- 
ments is very remarkable, and forms a noble 
background to the ancient cathedral. The most 
noted monuments are those of John Knox the 



68 SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 

Reformer. Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and 
Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one 
overlooks the vast city, with its enormous ranges 
of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of 
masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of 
Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathe- 
dral was founded in the reign of David I., in 
1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it ; 
and the inscription on his tomb alludes with 
pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long 
and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beau- 
tiful. Its general design is French, but the 
mouldings and details are English. The interior 
contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 win- 
dows are of very beautiful workmanship. The 
entrance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before 
the Reformation, the ch. was divided into two 
parts, and service was held in each. For in- 
teresting details, see Ferguson's Architecture. 
The Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly 
one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in 
Britain. It is supported by 66 pillars (18 ft. 
high), some of which are 18 ft. in circumference; 
and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers 
and groinings are of exquisitely beautiful and 
varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine 
of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo's 
Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irving, who 
died at Glasgow in 1834. In "Rob Roy" there 
is an interesting description of this crypt. Other 
things to note are the stained glass windows, 
executed in Munich, for £100,000 (explanations 
of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aisle, so- 
called from the perpetual dripping of water from 
the roof; the Choir, locally known as the High 
Ch., now used as one of the city chs. ; magnifi- 



SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 69 

cent organ here; behind it, the chapel and the 
chapter-house. The curious old ch.-yard is lit- 
erally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions 
to the memory of local notables. 

The new University, the most imposing mod- 
ern edifice in Scotland, is approached through 
West End Park: take the footpath from the 
bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good 
view. The University has a frontage of 600 ft, 
with fine central tower, 310 ft. high. The archi- 
tect w^as the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In gen- 
eral style the buildings are Early English. The 
buildings will have cost £500,000. The Hunterian 
Museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, natural 
history, and anatomy, is open daily, 10-6 (ad- 
mission, 6d.). In the Library, valuable series of 
early printed books. The University was 
founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 
Queen Mary endowed it with a moiety of the 
confiscated Church property in the city. Its 
renown as a seat of learning culminated in the 
last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and 
Reid, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the 
great names associated with it. Near by is the 
Botamcal Garden. The Art Galleries in Kelvin 
Grove have valuable collections of paintings (by 
Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, Whistler's por- 
trait of Carlisle, etc.) ; also a marble statue of 
Pitt, by Flaxman, and portraits of the English 
kings. Galleries open daily, 10 to sunset, Sun- 
days, 2 to 6. See St. Anclreiv's Palace and the 
Kelvin Grove Park. The park contains a foun- 
tain commemorating the introduction of water 
from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the 
Industrial Museum. Near the University is the 
'New Western Infirmary. The beautiful squares 



70 SCOTLAND. Dumbarton Castle. 

and terraces in the W. contain the homes of 
the rich merchants, the "tobacco lords," and the 
great ship-builders. 

Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along 
the Clyle, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nel- 
son, and the scene of very remarkable open-air 
preaching on summer Sunday evenings. In this 
park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army 
in 1745 ; and here, also, Watt was strolling when 
the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to 
him. To the S. of Queen's Park is the village 
of Langside, where Queen Mary met with her 
final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks 
the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. 

Excursions Around Glasgow. — To Greenock, 
by the river; past the suburb of Govan and the 
ship-yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old 
royal burgh of Renfrew, near which Somerled, 
Thane of Argyll, was defeated and slain in 11(>4 ; 
Erskine Ferry, where the Earl of Argyll was cap- 
tured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant ; Dal- 
nottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills ; Bowling, 
near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end 
of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, with its 
monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced 
steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton 
Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lo- 
mond's outlet) and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 
1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears 
the name of Wallace's Totcer. The Scottish hero 
was imprisoned there; and his huge two-handed 
sword is still shown. There is a tradition that 
Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. Patrick. 
The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scotland 
by the British army, and commands the Clyde 
with batteries. It was the capital uf a Roman 



SCOTLAND. Greenock. — Helensburgh 71 

province, and afterwards repelled the Norwe- 
gian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 
1309 ; and in 1571 Capt. Cawford carried it by es- 
calade, at night. In 1652 it was taken by Crom- 
well's troops. At the portculis may be seen 
carven heads of Wallace and of Menteith, his be- 
trayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman 
fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time 
here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of 
Cardross, where stood the old castle in which 
King Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock 
(Tontine; White Hart; Royal) 22 M. from Glas- 
gow ; population, 80,000, is one of the chief sea- 
ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely 
situated. Vast new docks are being built. The 
ship yards are among the largest on the Clyde. 
The ocean steamers for New York take their 
passengers and mails at the Tail of the Bank. 
Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyll- 
shire and Dumbartonshire. Burns' "Highland 
Mary" is buried in the old kirkyard. There is 
a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Chantrey, 
in a memorial building in Union-St. Travellers 
going to Oban and Inverary should take steamer 
at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh 
{Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty town, much 
frequented in summer by pleasure-seekers. The 
Gareloch is the name of a fine sea basin (steam- 
ers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helens- 
burgh for about 7^ M. Its shores are covered 
with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple 
Castle, etc. The famous Olen Fruin lies on 
the E. 

Another good excursion can be made in one 
day by Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing 
through Rutherglen, a royal burgh as early as 



72 SCOTLAND. Hamilton.— Lanark. 

1126. Hamilton (County, Clydesdale) contains 
many interesting historical places. See site 
of King's Head, \Yhere Cromwell lodged during 
his foray into Scotland ; and the old Steeple and 
Pillory, built in the reign of Charles I. Hamil- 
ton Palace, seat of the Duke of Hamilton and 
Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 2 M. S. E. 
are the ruins of Cadzo^o Castle. On Bothwell 
Bridge, 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encounter 
between the Covenanters and the Royal forces 
took place in 1679. A little beyond is Bothwell, 
noted for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of 
Rothsay, was married. Bothwell Castle (ad- 
mission, Tues. 9-5) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 
1 M. from the village. The ruins afford an almost 
perfect example of Norman architecture. See 
the circular towers ; remains of the chapel, with 
shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called 
Wallace's Beef-harrel. The walls are covered 
with ivy and wild roses. The walk between 
Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interest- 
ing. 

Lanark (Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of 
many of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue 
of him at the parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. 
S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft; and the pretty 
Bonnington Linn, is ^ M. beyond. Stonehyres 
Linn is 2^ M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland 
Crags. Tickets must be obtained. 



SCOTLAND. Loch Lomond. 



The Scottish Highlands. 

A Round Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow Ity ivay 
of Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, 
and Callander; from Callander to Oban; with 
Excursions frmn Oban to Staffa, lona, and In- 
verness; and frojn Oban to Glasgow, J)y the 
Crinan Canal and Rothesay. 

We recommend this route as giving a wide 
survey of typical Scotch mountain, lake, and 
coast scenery, within a brief period and at small 
cost. The trip through the lochs and the Tros- 
sachs to Callander begins at the Queen-St. stat. 
in Glasgow. Buy a ticket for Inversnaid, the 
point at which Loch Lomond is left, and pro- 
ceed by train to Balloch (20 M.). The route 
passes Dumbarton, and gives a good view of 
Wallace's Seat ; through the valley where, in 
the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian 
nnd novelist, was born; and up the glen of the 
Leven's transparent water. At Balloch the train 
stops close to the steamer. 

Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when 
the sunlight plays upon the water and on the 
guardian mts. It is about 23 M. long, and, at 
its S. end, 5 M. broad. Under the base of Ben 
Lomond it is 120 fathoms deep. The area cov- 
ered by water is 20,000 acres ; 32 islands are 
scattered over the lake, bearing ruins of an- 
cient monasteries and castles. Most of these 
belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inch- 
murrin, the largest, as a deer-park. "Loch Lo- 
mond,'' says Baddeley, "has neither the match- 
less depth and delicacy of coloring which char- 



74 SCOTLAND. Tarbet. 

acterizes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild 
grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let 
us add, the dignity of Loch Maree ; but it blends 
together in one scene a greater variety of the ele- 
ments which we admire in lake scenery than 
any other Scottish loch." The steamer leaves 
Balloch Castle on the r. ; passes to the r. of 
Inchmurrin, with its ruined Castle, and calls 
first at Balmaha. Near by is Inclicailloch, the 
"Island of Women" (so called because a nunnery 
once existed there). It is the burying-place of 
the Macgregors. The next landing-place is Luss. 
on the 1. ; a picturesque little village, with a good 
hotel. Fine view of the lake from Stone Brae 
hill. As boat moves N., the great mass of Ben 
Lomond comes fully into view. Roicardennan, 
on r., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point 
for the ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, 
and the favorite climb in Scotland. The rough 
pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and climbs 
over the ridge between Loch Lomond and Loch 
Ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inver- 
snaid and Aberfoil. In clear weather the castles 
of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Firth of 
Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowardennan, 
23 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. to 
10s. Opposite Rowardennan is Glen Douglas 
{Inveruglas Hotel), from which point a pretty 
road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be 
reached by ferry across the lake. The boat 
moves on under the shadow of Ben Lomond, and 
crosses to the 1. bank, to 

Tarbet affords a good view of Ben Lomond ; 
it is charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of 
loch. From thence coach may be taken to Loch 
Long, or to Inverary by Glencroe (24 M., fare, 



SCOTLAND. Inverary. — Inversnaid. 75 

8s.). Loch Long (salt water) is separated from 
Loch Lomond by a well-wooded Isthmus. Glen- 
CToe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here 
the road to Inverary turns N. and skirts the 
upper edge of LocJi Fyne. Inverary (Argyll 
Arms; George) is a small town celebrated as the 
Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll 
(the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the 
ducal residence, is in an ugly building in the midst 
of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached 
by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the 
steamer Lord of the Isles. 

From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, 
where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The 
head of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above 
is Rob Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in the bank 
near the water's edge, where it is said that Rob 
Roy kept his prisoners. Ardlui is the last town 
on the lake; coaches to Crianlarich (9 M.), 
whence rly. to Oban. 

Inversnaid has a comfortable hotel. There is 
a scramble for places on the coaches for Loch 
Katrine. The Iversnaid Waterfall is where 
Wordsworth met the "Highland Girl," of whom 
he sang so sweetly. Opposite Inversnaid is In- 
veruglas Isle, on which are the ruins of an an- 
cient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to 
Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, 
by the hovels pointed out as the former homes 
of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of 
hiversnaid, erected to check the depredations of 
Rob Roy's band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quar- 
tered there; and Loch ArJclet, half-way to 
Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W. end 
of Loch Katrine. At the hotel here a good lunch 
can be obtained. 



76 SCOTLAND. Loch Katrine. — Trossachs. 

Loch Katrine (or Cater an, *'RobJ)ers' Lake") 
is Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 
750,000 people gathered on the banks of the 
Clyde is conveyed from this lovely basin for 34 
M. The aqueduct required the building of 70 
tunnels, and cost ;£1.500,000. 

A Lilliputian steamer carries you past Ellen's 
Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake"), the Silver 
Strand, and the Goblin's Cave; and affords 
glimpses of "huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 
M. long, and averages f M. wide. To be seen 
to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, 
and then it seems "one burnished sheet of living 
gold." 

You land where all the beauties of the lake are 
concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up 
through the gorge to the Trossachs Hotel ( 1 M. ) , 
The Trossachs, the "bristling country," gains in 
loveliness in a rainy day. There is something 
weird in a ride through this leafy glen, with the 
rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends 
from Loch Katrine to Loch Achray, between 
the range of Ben A'an. on the r. (1.500 ft.), 
and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In this 
labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and 
rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, 
the most prosaic traveller may well become en- 
thusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good com- 
panions here. In Scott's early days there was 
no road through this pass. Tne Trossachs Hotel 
is a pretty house. Excursions thence to Ben 
Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of Beal-nam- 
bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the Trossachs 
you have finer view but you miss the Brig o' 
Turk and much else of great interest. 

Distances by Road. — ^Loch Katrine to Tros- 



SCOTLAND. Loch Achray. — Callandek. 77 

sachs Hotel, 1 M. ; Loch Achray, 2^ ; Brig o' 
Turk, Si ; Loch Vennachar, 4| ; Coilantogle Ford, 
7; Callander, 9|. Loch Achray is noticeable for 
its tranquil beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the 
shores are clad with copse to the very water's 
edge. "The Lady of the Lake" will be found the 
best guide here. You next reach the Brig o' 
Turk, where, in the famous chase, as Sir Walter 
informs us, "the headmost horseman rode alone," 
Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next comes 
the Duncraggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar 
(4 M. long), the "Lake of the Fair Valley." On 
the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God" (2,- 
875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny 
is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the 
real Highland country. The hills are aglow 
with purple colors ; the black-faced cattle with 
widely projecting horns look down defiantly at 
you from the steep pasturages; a countryman 
in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past 
Coilantogle Ford. "Clan-Alpine's outmost 
guard," where Roderick Dhu challenged Fitz 
James, and bring up in Callander. Here you 
may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh; but 
if you desire to see the real Highlands, continue 
on our route. 

Callander {Dreaclnauglit ; Hydropathic; Aur 
caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious coun- 
try, 1^ M. from the town are the BracJclifnn 
Falls. A pleasant excursion may be made 
through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, return- 
ing by train (8* M. to walk). It is easy to 
climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs.) and stand on 
the smooth green summit where the ancient 
Druid fires were kept. 

From Callander to Oban.— This line is one 



78 SCOTLAND. Locii Lubnaig. — Loch Awe, 

of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was ono 
of the most expensive. Including the harbor- 
works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line 
crosses the Teith ; sliirts the base of Ben Ledi ; 
and traverses the Pass of Lemj, which extends 
between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch 
is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by 
high mts. Near the Falls of Lcny is the church- 
yard of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the 
"Lady of the Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig 
the rly. crosses the River Balvag, and passes 
Strathyre and King's-House stat., whence Bal- 
quhidder and Loch Voil can be visited (2 M.). 
In the graveyard of the old ivy-covered chapel 
of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the 
grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately 
connected with the history of the Macgregors. 
The road now rises, and gives a good view of 
Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich, on the E, It next 
traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on 
the side, 300-400 ft. above the lowest level. The 
margin of Loch Dochart, above w^hich rises Ben 
More, is next passed ; after which Crianlarich 
Stat, (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A 
fine stretch of Highland landscap is seen shortly 
before arriving at Dahnally. Just beyond Dal- 
mally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque 
of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is 
reached. Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.) ; 
and in the lake are many islands, the largest 
being the Island of the Druids. At the N. end 
stand the ruins of Kilchurn Castle; and in the 
centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of 
the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former seat 
of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards 
the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on 



SCOTLAND. Oban. — Dunstaffnage Castle. 79 

a viaduct. From TaynuUt, on Loch Etive, a 
steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to 
Glencoe (34 M.) and BalachuUsh (41 M.) begun. 
Beyond is Council Ferry, near the Falls of Con- 
nell. To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchat- 
tan Priory, built in 1231 by the Lord of Lome, 
and burned during the wars of Montrose, 

Oban (Gt. Western; Alexandra; Station; 
Royal; Coluniba; Argyll; Marine, temperance ; 
Craig Ard, on the hill) is the most central point 
for excursions through this werd northern land 
of lochs and islands, which has always had a 
strange glamour of romance about it. It is also 
the meeting-place of southern fashionables and 
members of the English nobility and the re- 
public of letters. Oban extends along and above 
a pretty, bay, and is the most accessible place N. 
of Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a 
few yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. 
distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the 
N. end of the bay, and covered with ivy, was 
built by the Lords of Lome, and is now owned 
by their descendants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky 
island of Kerrera, 4 M. long, serves as a break- 
water to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that 
Haco, King of Norway, met the Highland chiefs 
who aided him in his disastrous raid on the 
coast of Scotland. Here, also, Alexander 
II. died, in 1249. The seaward view from 
the heights, reached by Craigard road, is 
very fine. Scott made the popularity of Oban by 
his poem, "The Lord of the Isles," the scene of 
which is laid hereabouts, and in the islands on 
the W. Fine promenade along the bay. Dun- 
staffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., was the seat of the 
Scottish monarchs for more than 3 centuries (a.d. 



80 SCOTLAND. Staffa.— Iona. 

300-600) . There was the famous Coronation Stone, 
finally removed to Westminster. Admission to 
the castle, free. 

To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 
90 M. (10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a. m. ' 
Fare, about 20s., including the landings at Staffa 
and Iona. The steamer passes on the r. DunoUie 
and Maiden Island, and the Lighthouse, at the S. 
end of Lismore, near which is the Lady Rock, 
where, according to tradition, a vindictive High- 
lander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. 
The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull, 
which separates Mull from the mainland ; crosses 
the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived 
Dr. Norman McLeod, the former editor of Good 
Words; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of 
Alexander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the 
Galiach Point, whence a good view N. can gener- 
ally be had as far as Skye ; and then goes S. to ^ 

The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of 
irregular oval shape, and 1^ M. around. This 
island and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. 
When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are 
conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fin- 
gal's Cave, 60-70 ft. in height, supporting an en- 
tablature of 30 ft. additional. The pillars by 
which it is bounded on the W. side are 36 ft. 
high ; on the E. only 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. 
The finest views are obtained through the end 
of the causeway at low water. The front and 
sides are composed of countless ranges of col- 
umns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to 
Staffa, to take care of the sheep; but the noise 
of the waves was so dismal that they begged to 
be taken aw^ay. 8 M. S. is Iona (4 S(iuare M. 
in area), which was founded in the 0th cen- 



SCOTLAND. CAI.EDONIA Canal. 81 

tury by St. Columba and the Culdees, and often 
ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the 
ruins of the 'Nunnery of St., Mary, dating from 
the 13th century; and the ancient Cathedral; 
also the great Stone Gross, the only one remain- 
ing of 360 once standing on the island, but 
broken and thrown into the sea at the Reforma- 
tion. The run back to Oban by the S. of Mull is. 
in fine weather, very charming. Do not forget 
plenty of wraps and waterproofs. 

Another excursion made in one day, is from 
Oban to Loch Etive, Glen Etive, and Glencoe, 
thence to Balachulish, returning by Loch 
Linnhe. Time about 10 hrs. Another is from 
Oban to Ford by the Pa^s of Metfort, returning 
by Loch Awe and the Oban Rly. This may be 
made comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. 
Another is to Fo?'t William, Ben Nevis, and 
Banavie, interesting but long, for vacation tour- 
ists. 

The Caledonian Canal.— People who have time 
to go to Inverness should take steamer through 
the great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 
60^ M. long. It was necessary to cut through 
only 23 M. as the sheets of fresh water which 
abound in the Great Glen of Scotland were util- 
ized. The depth of water is about 17 ft. The 
steamer going N. leaves Oban at 6 a.m and ar- 
rives at Inverness at 5.05 p.m. One may take a 
steamer at 5 p.m., and sleep at Banavie (Bana- 
vie Hotel) or Fort William (Caledonian). Loch 
Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is 
famous for beautiful scenery. Fort William was 
one of the keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. 
Monk. Note Inverlochij Castle, famous in an- 
cient wars, near the mouth of the Limdie. From 



82 SCOTLAND. Loch Lochy. 

Fort William to Banavie is 3 M. Ben Nems, 
near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the highest mt. in 
Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown porphyry, 
cleft with glens and fissures ; and on its crags 
the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. 
in diameter, including all the chief peaks of 
Scotland. From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) 
occupies 3^-5 hrs. (descent, 1^ hrs.) Oleii Nevis 
is worth a visit. Shortly after leaving Banavie, 
the steamer passes (on the r.) the ruined To?- 
Castle. On the W. side of Loch Lochy see the 
ruined home of Lochiel, whose fidelity and exile 
are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long; and a 
canal, 2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), 
the central lake of the chain, as well as the 
smallest and highest. On its W. shore stands 
Invergarry Castle, burned in the revolution of 
1745 ; and near the castle is "The Well of Seven 
Heads," commemorating the vengeance on the 
murderers of the Keppochs. At Aherchalcler the 
steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- 
sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort 
Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast 
pile of buildings in the Early English Gothic 
style. Loch Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 
24 M. long, and has a depth of 130 fathoms. At 
the pier of Foyers the steamer stops long enough 
to permit a visit to the beautiful Fall of Foyers 
(1 M. S.), "the most magnificent cataract in 
Britain." The height of the larger fall is about 
90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of the 
scene. There is a charming route along the 
hills, between Foyers and Inverness. This is the 
country for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of 
the great peak of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins 
of Urquhart Castle, besieged in 1303 by the 



SCOTLAND. Inverness.— Nain. 83 

troops of Edward I. The guides show an ar- 
rangement in the windows for pouring molten 
lead on besiegers. 8 M. from Urquhart, Loch 
Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, i M. 
long; and the steamer presently reaches Muir- 
toicn, a suburb of 

Inverness {Alexandra; Palace, on the river; 
Caledonia7i; Station; Imperial; Royal, near the 
station ; Waverley, temperance ) . This vener- 
able .capital of the Highlands is situated at the 
mouth of the river Ness, where the basins of 
the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen of 
Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, 
James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other fa- 
mous Scots are connected with its history. The 
new Cathedral of St. Andreio is a beautiful deco- 
rated Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of 
CuUoden, where the hopes of the House of Stuart 
were finally extinguished, in 1746. The cairn 
of stones marks the place where the battle took 
place; and the large bowlder shows where the 
Duke of Cumberland took up his position. 
An excursion may be made from Inverness to 
Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by Shake- 
speare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial 
strongholds. Splendid view from the battle- 
! ments. Nairn, 151 M. from Inverness, is a f ash- 
\ ionable resort for sea-bathing. Near it is Anld- 
: cai'n, where Montrose won a great battle over 
the Covenanters, who lost 2,000-3,000 men. The 
Inverness region was the scene of Hugh Miller's 
geological researches. Persons who have come 
from Oban to Inverness mav go down to Edin- 
burgh via Stirling (21^ M.). ^ 

From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the 
iCrinan Canal. This charming journey may be 



84 SCOTLAND. Rothesay.— Dunoon. 

made between 8 a. m. and 6 p. m., and we recom- 
mend it as the best way back. The boats are 
excellent and equipped on an American scale 
of comfort. From Oban the boats go down the 
Sound of Kerrera, pass Gylen Castle and the 
island of Mnll, through the Firth of Lome, and 
the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one 
or two places where the boat emerges into open 
water, and so nothing is to be feared from sea- 
sickness. The route lies inside the island of 
Seil to Blackmill Bay, and past the mouth of 
Loch Craignish, leaving Shima and Luing 
Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are 
transferred from the boat to a little steamer, 
and carried through the Crinan Canal. 9 M. long, 
to Loch Fyne. The canal was built (in 1801) 
to obviate the necessity of doubling the Mull of 
Kintyre, a dangerous route of 70 M. The views 
are pretty, and the passage of the 9 locks is 
curious ; the journey is well worth taking. At 
Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a 
large and fine steamer. Dinner is served on 
board (3s.). Look well to your baggage. From 
Ardrishaig the boat moves down Loch Fyne to 
Tarhert. Good views of the peaks of Ben Criia- 
chan on flie N., and the Arran mts. on the S. 
After a pleasant passage through the pictur- 
esque Kyles of Bute , a strait between Bute and 
the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay 
(Queen's Hotel: Royal; Bute Arms), a hand- 
some town of about 10,000 inhab.. the capital 
of the island of Bute (18x5 M. in area), stand- 
ing by a fine bay. Here are the ruins of Rothe- 
say Castle, built before 1100; and once a royal 
residence. The dukedom of Rothesay was the 
first conferred in Scotland. The brother of the 



SCOTLAND. Stirling. 85 

Earl of Argyll burned the castle in 1685. See 
the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of St, 
Mary. Rothesay is a favorite summer resort. 
The climate is very mild and genial. Consump- 
tive invalids have found a decided benefit at 
Rothesay. Hydropathic establishments near the 
town. From Rothesay to Dunoon {Argyll; 
Grown; McColVs) is a sail of 10 M. Dunoon is 
one of the large watering-places on the Clyde, 
and the neighborhood is picturesque. From 
Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passen- 
gers can save about 1 hr. by taking train from 
Greenock to Glasgow. 

Glasgow to Stixling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, 
and Edinburgh. 

We now recommend the traveller to go by rail 
(30 M.) from Glasgow direct to 

Stirling {Golden Lion; Royal; Lennox; Wa- 
verly, temperance), one of the most interesting 
towns in Scotland. It is on the river Forth ; and 
its Castle stands on the top of a huge rock 
overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. Here 
Alexander I. died in 1124 ; and in 1304 the stout 
fortress sustained a three-months' siege by Ed- 
ward I. All the besieging implements in the 
Tower of London were brought up ; and it was 
due to one of these terrible engines, called "The 
Wolf," that the castle surrendered. This was 
the key of the main passage between the N. and 
S. of Scotland. Edward II. fought the fatal bat- 
I tie of Bannockburn, in his endeavor to raise the . 
! siege laid to the proud castle. Edward Balliol 
j captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King 
I David recovered it only after a violent siege. 



86 SCOTLAND. Cambuskenneth Abbey. 

It was a royal residence under the Stuarts. 
James II. and James V. were born here; James 
III. built the Parliament House ; James IV. made 
it his favorite residence. James V. built the 
Palace, which occupies the S. W. portion. The 
sculptures are very rich and grotesque. A few 
of the original "Stirling heads" — wooden effigies 
of the Scotch kings — may be seen in the old 
Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was 
taken by Gen. Monk in 1651, and beat off Prince 
Charles in 1745. In the Douglas Room the pow- 
erful Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sov- 
ereign. Stirling Castle is now an infantry bar- 
rack. The vieio from the battlements is im- 
posing. The Vale of Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben 
Venue, Ben A'an, Ben Ledi, are all distinctly 
seen. N.-E. are the Ochil Hills ; S., the Campsie 
Hills ; and on the N., the Abbey Craig, Cam- 
buskenneth Abbey, the Wallace Monument, and 
the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce Monument ; 
the Back Walk W. of the Castle Rock ; the arey- 
friars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. (James 
VI. was crowned there in 1567, and John Knox 
preached the coronation sermon) ; Argyll's Lodg- 
ing and Mar's Work, the most interesting of 
the old ho.uses ; the Town House, in Broad-St., 
in front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic 
Archbishop of ScotlaiiQ, was hanged in 1571 ; 
Cowan's Hospital; the Cemetery (many stat- 
ues), S. of the Esplanade; the Old Bridge, near 
which was fought the battle of Stirling (1297) 
when the Scots under Wallace defeated the Eng- 
lish. 

Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth 
Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the 
richest abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace 



SCOTLAND. Dunblane.— Perth. 87 

Monument (by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet 
high, on a rock called Alley Craig (560 feet.) — 
To Lake of Menteitli and beautiful Aberfoil, on 
the river Forth.— To Bridge of Allan (3 M.), re- 
sorted to for the Airthrey chalybeate water. 
Dunblane {Hydropathic; Stirling Arms), near 
by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane, 
a good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was 
rebuilt in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers 
in 1559. Battlefield of SherifCmuir (1715) close 
by. Beyond Dunblane, is Doune Castle. — to 
Bannockburn where Robert Bruce and 30,000 
Scots defeated Edward II. and 100,000 English- 
men, restoring the independence of Scotland. — 
To the noble ruins of Linlithgoio Palace, a fa- 
vorite seat of the kings of Scotland. 

Perth {Station; Royal British; Royal George; 
'Macmarter's, temperance) may be visited from 
Stirling (69 M.). A superbly situated city, of 40,- 
000 inhab., with monuments to Scott and Prince 
Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. 
In the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox 
preached. The North Inch and South Inch, by 
the side of the Tay, are the parks of the city, 
and were the scene of the battle described in 
The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agri.cola estab- 
lished Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- 
ready a town ; and from the overthrow of the 
Picts until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital 
of Scotland. In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; 
in 1310 Robert Bruce stormed its walls ; and in 
1437 James I. was murdered here. An old house 
in Curfew Row is believed to be that described 
by Scott as the home of the "Fair Maid." Scone 
Palace, on the site of the famous old Alley of 



88 SCOTLAND. Dunkeld.— Dundee. 

Scone, in which the Scottish Iviiigs were crowned, 
is 2i M. N. 

The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from 
Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to 
Wicli, passes through some of the loveliest scen- 
ery in Scotland. Dunkeld {Birnam; Royal), on 
this line, 16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathe- 
dral, and is close to Birnam Hill. On this line 
also is the Pass of KiUiecrankie, a remarkable 
bit of glen scenery. The field where Dundee's 
Highland clans crushed William III.'s redcoats 
in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie {Fisher's; Athol 
Hydropathic) and Blair Athole {Athole Arms; 
Bridge of Tilt) are the best points for excur- 
sions. 

From Perth a trip can be made (22 M.) to 
Dundee (Queen's Hotel; Royal; Royal British; 
Mather's, temperance), the third town in Scot-' 
land in population (170,000), and the principal 
seat of the British linen and jute trades. It is on 
the N. bank of the Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, 
and has a fine range of docks, covering 40 acres, 
see the Customs Offices, and the Royal Arch; 
also the Esplanade, running from the Craig Pier 
to Magdalen Point, where the Tay Bridge had 
its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft. high, 
is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founded 
by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return 
from the Crusades. The Royal Exchange, in 
Albert-Square, the Albert Institute, and the Free 
Lihra7'y are worth visiting. Within easy reach 
of Dundee or Perth is Brpchin, with interesting 
ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an ancient 
round tower; Montrose, a quaint little seaport, 
once a royal burgh ; Diinottar Castle, towards 
Aberdeen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; 



SCOTLAND. Aberdeen. 89 

and Arltroath, a busy port, with fine ruins of 
an Abbey founded in 1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) 
is St. Andrews, a grave, neat, and picturesque 
port, witti the oldest university in Scotland 
(founded 1411), and the Madras College. It is 
"a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," hav- 
ing the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, 
the mysterious Tower of St. Regulus, part of 
the castle-palace of the primates of Scotland, a 
beautiful fragment of the Domincian monastery, 
and two fine old chs. From Dundee to Forfar 
(21 M.), is a pleasant journey. In the County 
Hall of Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, 
placed as a gag on the mouths of the miserable 
victims burned for witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 
M. W. of Forfar, is a grand old baronial edifice, 
celebrated by Scott and Shakespeare. From For- 
far those who have the time may go along the 
coast to 

Aberdeen (Imperial Hotel; Palace; For- 
syth's, temperance). Steamers to Leith and 
London; and N. to Wick, Thurso, Kirkwall (the 
Orkneys), and Lerwick (the Shetlands). Aber- 
deen, "the Granite City," is a finely built town 
of 180,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the Dee. 
at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand- 
some bridges. Union-St., 1 M. long, with its 
vista of grayish white granite, is much ad- 
mired. The ancient E. and W. Chs. contain 
some curious monuments, and the tomb of Beat- 
tie the poet. See the statue of Prince Albert; 
handsome Gothic Toicn and County Buildings; 
the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with medal- 
lions of the Scottish monarchs; and the hand- 
some Marischal College (founded 1593), forming 
with King's College (1494) the University of 



90 SCOTLAND. Balmoral Castle. — Braemab. 

Aberdeen. See the new Mitchell Town Hall (ad- 
mission daily, 11-12 and 2:30-3:30). The docks 
cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aber- 
deen clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 
M. N. lies Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient 
King's College (1494), famous for exquisite wood 
carving, in chapel ; and the Cathedral of St. 
Machar. The Auld Brig o' Balgoioiiie, celebrated 
by Byron in Don Juan, is 1 M. N. The Deeside 
Rly. runs to Ballater (4?^ M.), whence motor- 
buses to Braemar (18 M.) ; tourists who have 
visited Aberdeen may return this way. Between 
Ballater and Braemar stands Balmoral Castle, 
the favorite residence of Queen Victoria. It 
is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of 
two blocks, connected by wings. The property 
was bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,- 
000 acres of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of 
deer-forest. Braemar (Invercauld Arms; Fife 
Arms) is in the midst of a wMldly picturesque 
country. From this ix)int one may push on to 
Glen Tilt and Blair A thole and come down 
through the Killiecrankie Pass to Perth. Trav- 
ellers who do not wish to visit Aberdeen, etc., 
can go from Dundee to Edinburgh by Burntis- 
land (Forth Hotel), a pleasant seaside resort, 
20 M. from Edinburgh. 

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford. 

Many persons will content themselves, after 
the trip through the Trossachs, to Oban and 
down, with a trip from Glasgow to Stirling and 
Edinburgh. The direct routes between the two 
principal cities of Scotland are uninteresting. 

Edinburgh (Balmoral; Carlton; Royal; Cale- 



SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 91 

dcmian Station; North British, at Waverly Sta- 
tion; Royal British; Old Waverley, temperance; 
Bedford, Grosvenor, private hotels) is one of the 
most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history and 
legend, uniting their charms, have made it es- 
pecially fascinating to the traveller. It has 350,- 
000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated 
in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from 
the Firth of Forth. A large, open valley divides 
it into the Old and New Towns, the one a kind 
of epitome of the strange history of Scotland for 
the last 500 years; and the other a singularly 
handsome and well-built modern town. There is 
a striking resemblance between Edinburgh and 
Athens; and it was from this fact that the 
Scottish capital acquired its title of the "Mod- 
ern Athens." A fire destroyed the town in 1537 ; 
and the oldest date on any private house is 1657. 
It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, called 
Arthur's Seat (because King Arthur defeated 
the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who 
gives his name to the city, founded his "burgh" 
in the 7th century. For 400 years the city 
formed part of the Northumbrian kingdom. Early 
in the 11th century Lothian with its castle was 
added to the kingdom of the Scots. The city 
was long the favorite capital of the Stuarts. 

Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the 
Old Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the 
E. gardens stands the Scott Monument (built 
1840-44), the niches of which are filled with 
figures of the great novelist's heroes and 
heroines. Beneath the central canopy is a statue 
of Sir Walter Scott. A staircase leads to the 
top (200 ft.). Near by, stand bronze statues 
of Livingstone, Adam Black, and Prof. Wilson 



92 SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 

(Christopher North). The gardens are divided 
into two sections by the Mound, on which stand 
the beautiful classic buildings of the Royal In- 
stitution and the National Gallery. The former 
contains the Statue Gallery (open only to art- 
students). The School of Design in this build- 
ing has many pupils. The National Gallery (open 
daily, exc. Sund., 10-4; Thurs. and Fri., 6d.) is 
S. of the Royal Institution. Here are good 
paintings by Van Dyck, Veronese, Watteau, 
Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, Landseer, and Wil- 
son. The annual exhibitions of the Royal Scot- 
tish Academy take place here from February to 
May. See in W. Princes- St. Gardens statue of 
Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly 
opposite the University Club is a statue of the 
famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the 
West churchyard is the grave of Thomas de 
Quincey. Near the Caledonian Station is Castle 
Terrace, on which stands the Synod Hall of 
the U. P. Church. Crossing the railway from the 
West Garden you reach the base of the Castle 
Rock, and may ascend by the Wellhouse Tower 
(a part of the first town wall, erected in 1450) 
to the uppermost walk. 

The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 
300 ft. above the valley, accessible only from 
the E. side. This was an impregnable strong- 
hold before the days of gunpowder. To-day it 
is an infantry barrack for 1,200 men, and has 
an armory containing 30,000 stand of arms. The 
so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the N. E. 
The main approaches to the castle are by High- 
St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected 
to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. 
You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge 



SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 93 

over a moat. See the State Prison, where many 
adherents of the Stuarts were confined. On the 
r. is the Argyll Battery; a little beyond, the 
Armory, the Prison, the Old Palace Yard, and 
the Crown Room (open daily, 11-3). Here are the 
Regalia, sometimes called the Honors of Scot- 
land. They consist of a crown (Robert Bruce's, 
with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, 
sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to 
James IV.), treasurer's rod of office, etc. Queen 
Mary's Room is a small apartment in which 
Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. On the 
wall is a black-letter inscription, with the Scot- 
tish arms. On the Bomh Battery stands Mons 
Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- 
gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped to- 
gether. From this battery see the whole of 
Edinburgh and environs. Here is Queen Mar- 
garet's Chapel, the oldest and highest part of 
the castle, built about 1050, and named for Mal- 
colm Canmore's Saxon queen. The castle has 
been captured by Henry II., Edward I., Bruce, 
Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed 
Prince Charles's army. 

On Queen Street is the building of the 
National Portrait Gallery (daily, except Sunday, 
10-5; Thurs. and Frid., 6d., other days free). 
Flaxman's statue of Robert Burns is here, also 
Drummond's drawings of old Edinburgh. This 
building contains the National Museum of An- 
tiquities (daily, except Mond., 10-4; Thurs. and 
Frid., 6d., other days free). John Knox's pulpit 
is here, also Jennie Geddes' stool which she threw 
at Dean Hanna, in St. Giles's Church, Robin- 
son Crusoe's sea chart, the blue ribbon worn by 
Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter, the 



94 SCOTIiAND. Edinburgh. 

Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, signed by 
Montrose, the "Torturing Maiden," and many 
Celtic and Roman antiquities. 

High-St. wa^ once one of the finest in Europe ; 
but its quaint old houses now compare but poorly 
with those in the New Town. Note: Cannon- 
l)all (fired from the castle in 1746) sticking in 
the gable of the old mansion of the Duke of 
Gordon; Ramsay Lane, on the 1., where lived 
Ramsay the poet; the General Assembly Hall of 
the Church of Scotland. It was along the W. 
Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed 
in the executioner's cart to the Grassmarket, 
the place of public execution. On the 1., James's 
Court, where David Hume wrote part of his 
History of England, and where Boswell enter- 
tained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli. Burns lived 
in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell in Byre's Close. 
In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of Scotland; on 
the r. the County Hall, near the open space 
where stood the old Tolhooth, called The Heart 
of Midlothian. The Tolhooth was the House of 
Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and 
the prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., 
whose tower is terminated by a huge imperial 
crown, visible from afar. The original ch. was 
built before 1350, and was the cathedral of Edin- 
burgh. Knox ministered here, and here the 
Solemn League and Covenant was signed. The 
Reformers cast out 40 images of saints, and di- 
vided the building by partitions, so that three 
congregations might worship therein. James VI., 
when about to ascend the English throne, here 
took leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the 
tombs of Montrose and the Regent Murray. S. of 
St. Giles is Parliament Square.. See, in the 



SCOTLAND. Edinbubgh. 95 

pavement here, a stone inscribed "I. K. 1572," 
which marks the grave of John Knox. Also, an 
equestrian statue of Charles II. On the S., 
Parliament House, a modern Italian structure, 
now used as courts of justice. Parliament Hall, 
122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. 
See statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. 
Near by are the Advocates' Library and the 
Signet Library. The first contains 300,000 vols., 
and a vast collection of MSS. See here the May- 
ence first edition of the Bible. On the N. E. 
side of St. Giles's Ch. see the City Cross. Oppo- 
site are the City Chambers in which is the City 
Museum, with memorials of Burns. Where 
High-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges 
stands the Tron Church, named from a public 
tron, or weighing-machine. When the shop- 
keepers weighed falsely they were nailed up by 
the ears. Farther down is John Knox's House 
(open daily, 10-4; 6d.). The interior is a laby- 
rinth of small and low-ceiled rooms. On the 
outside is the inscription : "Lo/e . God . aboue . 
al . and . your . mchtbour . as . yi . self.'' Here 
Knox is said to have lived from 1559 to 1572, 
and to have died. From Knox's house to Holy- 
rood, High-St., is called Canongate. On the 1., 
Canmigate Tolbooth, built in 1591. Back from 
the street. The Ch. of the Canons, built in 1688. 
In the Cejnetery are buried Adam Smith, Dugald 
Stewart, and other celebrated Scots. On the 1., 
Queensberry House, an ancient ducal palace, 
where the poet Gay once dwelt; now used as a 
house of refuge. 

Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by 
King David I., who is said to have been saved 
from the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this 



96 SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 

spot, by a luminous cross in the sky. The Holy 
Rood, which David intended to deposit there, 
was a fragment of the True Cross. The palace 
(free daily, ex. Frid., 10-6; Sund., 2-5) was be- 
gun by Charles IV., and burned by the English 
in 1544, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. 
The most interesting section is Queen Mary's 
Apartments, entered by a door on the N. side of 
the inner court. The rooms on the first floor 
were occupied by Darnley. In the little boudoir 
Rizzio was assassinated while at supper with 
Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruthven, and 
others. The guides show some dark stains on 
the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present 
palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. 
The picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypotheti- 
cal portraits of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal 
is a beautiful but ruinous fragment of the old 
Abbey, founded by David. Charles I. was 
crowned here in 1633. In the vaults are buried 
David II., James II., James V. and his Queen, and 
Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holyrood is the Queen's 
Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is behind Holy- 
rood. A good road, the Queen's Drwe, runs 
round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- 
rood by crossing the Park, or by following the 
drive to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that 
point. On the hill are the ruins of St. Anthony's 
Chapel. See, near the Park-keeper's lodge at St. 
Leonard's Hill, the cottage of "Jeannie Deans." 
The historic Coicgate, built in 1500, is now 
one of the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It 
ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which 
is the Ccyrn Exchange. At the head of the Cow- 
gate stands the house in which Lord Brougham 
was born; and in the ch.-yard of Greyfriars 



SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 97 

are the tombs of the historian Robertson, Allan 
Ramsay, and other famous men. HerioVs Hos- 
pital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle (built 
by Inigo Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The 
University (session Nov.-April), at the S. end 
of S. Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James VI. 
It has one of the best medical schools in Europe. 
There are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,- 
000 vols. In Drummond-St., opposite the Col- 
lege, stood Darnley's house, where he was blown 
up in 1567. Near the head of College Wynd stood 
the house in which Walter Scott was born. It 
was pulled down in 1871. Behind the University 
is the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. At 
the N. end of George IV. Bridge is the Free Pub- 
lic Lilro/ry erected mainly through the liberality 
of Mr. Andrew Carnegie. 

Crossing the Mound into the New Town, one 
finds the streets as wide and handsome as in the 
Old they are narrow and ugly. Gk) up Calton 
Hill, at the E. end of Princes-St., and visit Nel- 
son's Monument (fee, 3d.) ; good view from the 
top. On this hill is the National Monument to 
the Scottish soldiers who fell in the Peninsular 
and Waterloo campaigns, — an unfinished build- 
ing, copied after the Parthenon at Athens ; also, 
the Observatory; and the Dugald-Stewart Monu- 
ment, copied from the Choragic Monument of 
Lysicrates at Athens. Just beyond is Playfair's 
monument. At the base of the hill is the Royal 
High School, an adaptation of the Temple of 
Theseus at Athens. To the S. is Burns's Monu- 
ment, erected in 1830. At the corner of the N. 
Bridge, the Post-Office. In the Registry Office, on 
the r. at the end of Princes-St., are autograph let- 
ters of Queen Mary, etc. To the E. of the Scott 



98 SCOTLAND. Leiith. 

monument, are the Abraham Lincoln Monument, 
the Martyrs' Monument in memory of the Scotch 
who were liilled in the U. S. Civil War, the 
Prison, and the tomb of David Hume. See 
Waverley Bridge. 

Other objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; 
the new Waverley R. Sta.; the bronze statues of 
Pitt and George IV., by Chantrey ; St. Andrew's 
Ch. ; statue to Chalmers, erected in 1878, bas- 
reliefs illustrative of the Prince Consort's career ; 
the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution in Queen- 
St. ; the stately Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary, 
built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the Deaii Bridge, span- 
ning the Water of Leith, 106 ft. high ; the Dean 
Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey. Cockburn,* Ruth- 
erford and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried ; 
the Fettes College; "the 8. Cemetery, at the 
Grange, where Hugh Miller, Dr. Chalmers, and 
Dr. Guthrie are buried; the Royal Bank Garden; 
the Warriston Cemetery, where Alexander Smith 
the poet is buried. 

Leith (85,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. 
N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars; trains 
every ^ hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft. 
into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take 
ferry across to the other, and come back on it. 
Mary Queen of Scots had a brilliant reception 
on landing here from Calais in 1561. Huge ship- 
building yards, glass-works, and flour-mills here. 
Large trade in corn and timber with Baltic ports. 
The Albert Dock covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was 
built by Cromwell. W. of Leith is Newhaven 
{Peacock Inn, celebrated for fish dinners). The 
fishwives here, of Scandinavian descent, are re- 
markable for their costumes, and noted for their 
virtue. 



SCOTLAND. RosLiN Chapel. 99 

Excursions from Edinburgh.— To Granton 
Pier, 2 M.. stopping to visit the Royal Botanic 
Gardens (admission free). Good view of Edin- 
bnrgti. Magnificent pier, built by the Duke of 
Buccleuch. At Granton the English troops that 
invaded Scotland in 1544 were landed. From 
the pier, steam ferry to Burntisland in Fife. — 
To Trinity, good bathing. — To Hawthornden and 
Roslin Chapel (open 10-6; Is.) Train to Haw- 
thornden station. This chaming mansion, 
"grafted on an old fortified Peel tower," was 
built by the poet Drummond, born in 1585 ; and 
here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walking 
all the way from London. Lender the mansion 
are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were 
known. Cross the Esk and go along the roman- 
tic glen to Roslin (l^M.), getting a fine view 
of the castle and chapel as you leave the ravine. 
Battle fought in 1302 on the Moor near by. Ros- 
lin Chapel is the choir of an unfinished ch., 
founded in 1446. Ferguson thinks "the chapel 
owes its beauty entirely to the profusion of its 
decorations." The castle, on a mound below, is 
a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is lovely. 
If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can 
pass by Morning side, and see the stone on which 
James I. fixed his standard before he set out 
for Flodden Field. — Dalkeith Castle, Newdattle 
Abhey, Dalhousie Castle, Borthivick Castle, 
Crichton Castle, all or near the Esk, are well 
worth visiting. 

All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbots- 
ford, and Dryburgh. Take express train (Pull- 
man car attached)' to Melrose station (37 M.). 
Hotels at Melrose: George and Ahhotsford; 
Ahhey; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was 



100 SCOTLAND. Melrose Abbey. 

founded by David I. in 1126, and completed in 
1146. The monks who dwelt there were among 
the first Cistercians in Scotland. The Abbey was 
destroyed by Edward II. in 1322, but rebuilt 
later under the patronage of King Robert Bruce. 
The architecture is Second Pointed, mingled with 
Flamboyant. The present structure dates from 
about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch now owns 
the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 ft.; 
breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the 
Transepts, the Nave, entered by a wooden gate 
at the W. end, and the S. Aisle, are in best pre- 
servation. The Abbey forms a Latin cross, with 
a square tower, 84 ft. high, in the centre. Beside 
the high altar, under the noted E. Window, 
lies Alexander II. ; and here the heart of Robert 
Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the wizard. 
Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. Note 
the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the 
doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the 
S. door (outside) is a beautiful sculptured 
canopy, and above it a noble window. Above the 
E. window are figures, supposed to be David I. 
and his queen. Under the fifth window is Sir 
David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight effects quite 
equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic description. 
Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to Ab- 
botsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A 
one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 
M.) costs 6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. ; public 
coach, Is. 6d. The walk is a pleasant one. Per- 
sons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10.30 a.m. ; 
reach Melrose in 1 hr. ; drive over to Abbotsford, 
see it, and return, in 2 hrs. ; give ^ hr. to Mel- 
rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by ; 
then take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it, 



SCOTLAND. Drybuegh Abbey. 101 

and return to Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, 
In 2J hrs. ; after whicli they can take an even- 
ing train S. Abbotsford (11-1 and 2-4, Is.) was 
long the home of the "Great Enchanter of the 
North." The author's study is the most inter- 
esting room. There the old writing-table, the 
plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, 
seem to indicate that Sir Walter has but just 
left them. The Lihrary (20,000 vols.j contains 
a bust of Scott, by Chantrey, and many minia- 
tures. The roof is of carved oak, designed from 
models taken from Roslin Chapel. The Drawing- 
room, where Sir Walter died, and the little octa- 
gonal dressing-room contain many precious relics. 
The Armory has a fine collection of Scotch 
weapons. Not far away is the Chief swood Cot- 
tage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the 
Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood. 

In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by 
rail from Melrose to Newtown St. Boswell's, and 
then li M. across country) Scott was buried (in 
1832). His tomb is in the beautiful St. Mary's 
Aisle, and on either side are the tombs of his 
wife and eldest son. Lockhart also lies there. 
The Abbey (admission Is.) was founded in 1150 
by Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, like Mel- 
rose, by Elward I. The Chapter-House is still 
entire. On a hill near by is an efiigy of Wallace, 
in red sandstone. 



ENGLAND. Newcastle-tjpon-Tyne. 103 

ENGLAND. 

Newcastle, Durham and York. 

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE {Station Hotel; 
County; York, temperance) is a place of 
great industrial interest (280,000 inhab.). It 
was Pons ^lii, the second stat. on the Roman 
wall. Up to the Conquest it was called Monk- 
chester. Newcastle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9^ 
M. from its mouth. The Castle-keep remains, 
with splendid great hall, oratory, king's cham- 
ber, and museum of Roman antiquities. See St. 
Nicholas's Cathedral (14th cent.), with fine spire 
and rare old monuments ; St. Andrew's, very an- 
cient ; the Li'brary; the Royal Arcade; and 
Stephenson's High Level Bridge. Elsimck, 2 M. 
out, is the seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's im- 
mense ordnance works. Tynemouth has a beau- 
tiful ruined Priory. Newcastle is enterprising 
but grimy ; "the dimmest and smokiest place I 
ever saw," says Hawthorne. Much iron ship- 
building on the river. Made in 1882 an Episcopal 
See. 

Durham {County Hotel; Rose and Crown; 
Three Tuns), 15 M. from Newcastle, stands on a 
hill almost surrounded by the river Wear, and 
is noteworthy for its Cathedral and Castle. The 
latter was built by William the Conqueror, and 
is the seat of a University. The Cathedral 
crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. 
It was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch. 
*'We paused upon the bridge, ai)d admired and 



104 ENGLAND. Durham. 

wondered at the beauty and glory of the scene, 
with those vast ancient towers rising out of the 
green shade, and looliing as if they were based 
upon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- 
able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw 
so lovely and magnificent a scene, nor, being con- 
tent with this, do I wish to see a better." — 
Hawthorne. 

King's English Cathedrals speaks of the "view 
of the castle walls, and the towers of the enor- 
mous ch. rising close beside it, and sheer with 
the face of the cliff;" and, indeed, there are 
few bits of English scenery lovelier than those 
in old Durham on the Wear ("This river Wear, 
with its sylvan wildness, and yet so sweet and 
placable, is the best of all little rivers," says 
Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the 
midst of a charming landscape. It contains the 
remains of the Venerable Bede (see some of his 
MSS. in the Cathedral library) ; those of St. 
Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827 ; and of Ralph, Lord 
Neville, who commanded at Neville's Cross. See 
The Galilee, a splendid chapel ; the E. Transept, 
or Chapel of the Nine Altars ; the magnificent 
Norman Nave, with its unrivalled vista ; the 
Chapter-House, built 1133-42 ; the Te-Deum Wm- 
dow; the Altar Screen, dating from 1380; the 
Cloisters; the Abbey Gateway; etc. Choral ser- 
vices twice daily. Good views of the Cathedral 
from the Framwellgate Bridge and the rly. stat. 
King thinks that the Cathedrals at Lincoln and 
Ely alone can be compared with this for maj- 
esty and beauty. From St. Giles's Ch.-yard, 
from the Prior's Path, and from Nine Trees, are 
excellent views. The Castle (fee. Is.) was long 
the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate. 



ENGLAND. Ripon. 105 

It is now part of Durham University. See tlie 
Keep, now occupied by students ; tlie beautiful 
Normo/n Gallery; the Black Staircase; the Great 
Hall, with its many pictures ; . the tapestry in 
Bishop TunstalVs Gallery; and the very curious 
old Chapel. . Pleasant walks abound. Excursions 
to Finchale Priory (3^ M.), dating from 1496, 
and in a lovely vale beyond the Kepyer Woods ; 
to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Ro- 
mans, and the Moated Grange; to Neville's Cross, 
commemorating the capture of David II, by Ne- 
ville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a 
noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle 
(Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall 
and Ball-Room (time of Edward I.), and Laml)- 
ton Castle (Earl of Durham). From Durham 
you may proceed directly to York. But we rec- 
ommend you to go to 

Ripon (Spa; Unicorn; Crotvn), a. pretty city 
on the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical 
site for 12 centuries. The Cathedral (open daily, 
11-6; choir and crypt, 6d.) was begun in 1154, 
roughly used by the Scots in the Border wars, 
fell into ruin, and was rebuilt in the 17th cen- 
tury. It w^as restored by Sir G. Scott in 1862- 
72. The most striking point of view is the 
W. Front. The nave has a lofty clerestory, and 
an oak roof with carved bosses, and some inter- 
esting old stained glass. The library is in the 
old Lady Chapel, above the chapter-house and 
vestry. The Choir Screen is a splendid pile of 
tabernacle- work. In the N. Choir Hall was for- 
merly placed the Shrine of St. Wilfrid. Ripon 
retains many odd memorials of the past. In 
High St. Agnes Street is the Malson Dieu Hos- 
pital, founded in Edward IV. 's reign. In Stam- 



106 ENGLAND. York. 

ergate, chapel of Roman date. See the Hospital 
of St. Mwry Magdalen, founded for lepers in 
1140. In Park Street is the Museum of Natural 
History (2d.). See the Spa Baths. Fountains 
Abbey, 3 M. W., within the grounds of Studley 
Royal (Marquess of Ripon), was established in 
1132. It is reached by motor-bus (9d.). The 
ruins cover more than 2 acres ; and w^hen the 
abbey was complete it occupied 12 acres. Note 
almost perfect ch. on 1. From the N. transept 
rises a tower. There is also a great cloister, and 
a beautiful gallery, 300 ft. long. The Chapter- 
House has singular aisles, with double row of 
columns. Here are many tombs of the abbots. 
See, also, the Refectory, the Vaulted Kitchen, 
the Prater House. Returning to Ripon, take train 
to York (23 M.). On the way is Harrogate 
(Majestic; Queen; Prince of Wales; West Park), 
one of the most charming of English watering- 
places. 

York {Station Hotel; Harker's York; Black 
Stvan), a city of 78,000 inh., 188 miles from 
London. York is said to have been founded in 
983 B. c. In 150 a. d. it was a great Roman 
station, bearing the name Ehoracum, with an im- 
perial palace. Here the Emperor Severus died. 
Here also Constantine the Great was perhaps 
born, and his father Constantius died, in 307. In 
the Saxon era York was noted for the baptism 
of Edwin of Northumbria by Paulinus ; and after- 
wards became the favorite capital of the Danes, 
whose chief w^as defeated by Harold in 1066. 

The visitor should first see the City Walls, 2J 
M. around, interruptel here and there by the 
rivers. These walls were built chiefly in Edward 
II I. 's time, but have been often restored since. 



ENGLAND. York Mtnstee. 107 

During the siege by the Parliamentary forces 
they suffered very much. On the N. and S. W. 
they follow the old line of the Roman wall. See 
MicJdegate Bar, a noble archway of Norman 
date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and 
battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. 
Here the skulls of rebels to the Crown were 
formerly aflBxed. Close by, St. Mary's Nunnery. 
At 8keldergate, cross the Ouse by bridge. Be- 
yond the feri-y, the Bail Hill, on which William 
I. built his castle; Walmgate and Monkgate; an 
interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated upper 
story ; and at the Tliirsk Road one may descend 
close to the Cathedral, or 

York Minster, which Hawthorne called "the 
most wonderful work that ever came from the 
hands of men." Open daily, 10-5 ; choir, chapter- 
house, and crypt, 6d. ; tower, 6d. ) . A wooden 
edifice was built here by Paulinus, and replaced 
by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 627). 
The first Norman bishop erected a new church, 
which was added to within the next four cen- 
turies. In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was 
entirely replaced by the present one. The Min- 
ster was reconsecrated, July 3, 1472. The total 
length is 524 J ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; 
length of transepts, 322 ft. ; height of central 
tower, 213 ft. The W. Front consists of a cen- 
tral fagade, flanked by tw^o towers (201 ft). 
The front, with its 3 N. towers is Decorated. 
The buttresses of the towers are very massive. 
Between them and the portal are niches filled 
with figures of saints. The N. Transept is no- 
ticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window, 
below which is an Early English arcade. The 
octagonal chapter-house, with superb 14th-cen- 



108 ENGLAND. York Minster. 

tury windows ("the richest I ever saw or im- 
agined ; with all their brilliancy they were soft 
as rose-leaves," said Hawthorne), is the finest 
in England. Imposing view of the choir and 
central tower. Magnificent E. window, and row 
of sculptured figures underneath the sill. The 
8. Transept is fine Early English ; beautiful rose 
window here. The nave aisles are of unusual 
width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end 
of the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Win- 
doio, restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm 
of archaeologists, who compare it for beauty and 
variety with the E. window at Carlisle. The 
quantity and exquisite beauty of the stained 
glass will remind the old traveller of some of 
the Spanish churches. This glass miraculously 
escaped damage when Fairfax took the town in 
1644. The Puritans broke up most of the monu- 
ments and brasses. Among wall monuments, 
note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of 
Stafford (son of him who was beheaded), Arch- 
bishop Scrope (mentioned in Shakespeare's 
Henry IV.), and Archbishop Markham. Visitors 
should see the nave in the evening, when the 
body of the church is beautifully lighted. The 
Central Toicer is remarkable for its massive 
piers. The Lantern Toicer, finished in the 15th 
century, has a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the 
grounl. The N. Transept has an exquisite series 
of lancet windows, filled with red glass. The 
Chapter-house dates from the 14th century. "I 
never saw a piece of human architecture so beau- 
tiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway of trefoiled 
arches with a shaft, having a niche, in which 
is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice 
the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work. 



ENGLAND. York Minster. 109 

The rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir 
from the nave, is in 15 compartments, each con- 
taining a statue of a liing of England down to 
Henry VI. The choir is of vast height and width, 
and Hawthorne said that its pillars and arches 
are so perfect that "their beauty throws a gleam 
around them." Its height is 102 ft. ; width, 99 
ft. The stained glass in the clerestory is partly 
of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir 
and in the presbytery. The great E. Windoic 
is the largest in England that retains its original 
glazing. It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a 
complete epitome of the Bible. The Crypt may 
be visited from either the N. or the S. aisle. 
See first the Presl)ytery and the Lady Chapel. 
The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury, and Li- 
'brary (containing many MSS.), may be seen 
Mon. and Thurs., 11-1. The Horn of Ulphus, 
laid on the altar by one of the Lords of York- 
shire as a sign that he gave certain lands to the 
Church, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says of this 
cathedral : "It seems to have come down from 
above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness 
with it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all 
its vast columns and pointed arches, that one 
would hardly wonder if it should ascend back to 
heaven again by its mere spirituality." 

Other Objects of Interest. — Within the grounds 
of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the 
Ouse (fee Is.), is St. Mary's Abbey. After the 
dissolution, part was changed into a royal pal- 
ace. See ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital, founded 
by Athelstan, and rebuilt by Stephen; and, be- 
yond the Hospital, the Multangular Tower, Ro- 
man below and mediaeval above. Here are many 
stone coflBns from the Roman cemetery. Near 



110 ENGLAND. Scarborough. 

this is *Sf^. Olave's Ch., in the graveyard of which 
Etty the painter lies buried. Near the river is 
the Museum of Antiquities, with very interesting 
collections. The Museum of the Philosophical 
Society contains a valuable geological exhibit. — 
The Castle, now a prison, is a massive edifice in 
which occurred many events in the early his- 
tory of York. It was here that the massacre of 
the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, 
indignant at the favors shown to the Hebrews 
by Henry II., took place in the reign of Richard 
I. Clifford's Tower, the oldest part of the Castle, 
is open 10-4 daily ; 2d. Over the gateway is 
a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., 
in North-St., is of great age. and contains Ro- 
man masonry and rich stained glass. See Holy 
Trinity Ch., Kings Court, St. Crux Pavement, 
where the Earl of Northumberland, beheadel in 
1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is dedi- 
cated to the mother of Constantine. See also St. 
Lawrence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the 
Younger, Bishop Hill ; anl St. MichaeVs, Spurrier 
Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew 
bell is still kept up. The principal public build- 
ings are: The Mansion House; the Ouildhall, 
with nave and aisles separated by oak pillars, 
and rich stained windows; Merchants' Hall, in 
Fossgate; and St. Williani's College, founded in 
1460. Hawthorne admired York's "old churches, 
gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time." 

Excursions from York. — To Scarborough 
(Grand; Prince of Wales; Clarence Oar dens ; 
Royal; Pavilion) ; time 1^-2 hours. 'This is a 
fashionable seashore resort. On a promontory 
are ruins of an ancient Norman Castle. The Spa, 
the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and Oliver's 



ENGLAND. Whitby.— Hull.— Leeds. Ill 

Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff 
Bridge. View from the Castle Kock very fine. 
Near the castle is the venerable Ch. of St. Mary. 
— To Whitby (Royal Hotel; Crown; Angel), 56^ 
M,, a summer resort, with superb sea-views. 
Museum and library on the W. pier. Many shops 
for the sale of jet. Charming drives to Robin 
Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and along the Esk 
dales. Scott's Marmion has made this region 
classic. Capt. Cook's circumnavigating ships 
were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable 
ruins of Whithy Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 658- 
80, and Csedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon 
verse. — To Beverly {Beverly Arms ; Holderness), 
dating from the 8th century. Beverley Minster 
merits close study, with its superb Percy Shrine, 
rich tabernacle-work, Lady Chapel, high towered 
fronts. 8t. Mary's Ch. is splendid cruciform 
building, with many sculptures. Near here is the 
'North Bar, formerly one of the tower gates, a 
14th century structure. 8 M. distant is Hull 
{Royal Station; Victoria; Imperial), a town of 
354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to Lon- 
don and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch.; 
the Toion Hall; the Wilherforce Column (72 ft.) ; 
St. Mary's Ch.; the Trinity House, established 
1369; the ancient High-St.; the Merchants' Ex- 
change; and the Royal Institution. — To Leeds 
{Queen's Hotel; Metropole; G-reat Northern Sta- 
tion), chief town in Yorkshire, with 430,000 inh. 
It is 32 M. from York. Coal and iron abound on 
all sides. Reclus calls Leeds "first in the world 
in the woollen business." The public buildings 
are magnificent. The Toivn Hall has a tower 225 
ft. high, and 4 rich Corinthian fagades. In front 
are statues of Queen Victoria, Wellington, and 



112 ENGLAND. Bradford. — Haworth. 

Sir Robert Peel. The City Art Oallery (open 
daily, free) contains modern paintings. The Mii- 
seuni (10-4; Id.) contains a collection of anti- 
quities and also geological and zoological objects. 
The Royal Exchange, Mixed-Cloth Hall, WJiite- 
Cloth Hall (built in 1775), and the Neic Infirm- 
ary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is 
Kirkstall Aihey, beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, 
and chapter-house ; Temple Newsam; rich in 
paintings; and Weetivood, noted for idyllic 
sceneiy. The Leeds University, formerly York- 
shire College, was established in 1904. From 
Leeds it is 8 M. to Bradford {Midlamd; Alex- 
andra), world-famous for its woollens and 
worsted yarns. The town (295,000 inh.) is pret- 
tily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall, 
of mediseval design, was erectel in 1873, and has 
a campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be supe- 
rior to those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the 
model town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. dis- 
tant. The factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories 
high. Rly. hence (7-8 M.) to Keighley Junction, 
whence a branch line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth 
{Black Bull Inn). The village has been much 
altered since the time of the Brontes. The par- 
sonage, where lived from 1820 to 1860 the father 
of the marvellous girls who wrote Shirley, Janr 
Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All the Bronte 
family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. 
There is a tablet to their memory in the ch. : 
Charlotte's signature may be seen on the register. 
The Bronte Museum (3d.) contains many objects 
relating to the sisters. Many Americans make 
pilgrimages to this rude moorland country, hal- i 
lowed by the manifestations of genius. 



ENGLAND. Manchester. 113 



Manchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc. 

We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, 
and go thence to Manchester. Many trains pass 
daily between these two towns (42^ M.). On the 
way you go through the Morley tunnel (2 M. 
long) ; and pass Huddersfield (Queen's Hotel; 
George), a handsome manufacturing town of 
95,000 inhab. Near by is EirJclees Hall, on the 
site of the nunnery where, if we may believe the 
old ballads, Robin Hood was bled to death by a 
nun, and where the celebrated outlaw's grave is 
shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. long) comes next. 
Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 cotton mills. 
Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely beautiful. 

Manchester (Queen's; Midland; Grand; Vic- 
toria; Albion; Grosvenor; Deansgate, temper- 
ance) and Salford are connected by numerous 
bridges. The population numbers about 890,000 ; 
and the two towns cover 9 square M. Reclus 
says : "Manchester was the Mancunian of the 
Romans, and in the 14th century was already 
known for its manufactures of stuffs, established 
by Flemish artisans after the religious wars. In 
our time it is the 'cotton metropolis.' " The 8Mp 
Canal, 35^ M. long, 26 ft. deep, made at a cost of 
£15,000,000, has converted the town into a seaport 
and ensured the continuance of its prosperity. 

The Gothic Cathedral (1421) was restored in 
1845-68. The celebrated ^'eic Free Trade Hall 
stands in Peter-St., near the scene of the "Peter- 
loo Massacre." The large hall, in which Cobden 
and Bright made many famous speeches, can hold 
7,000 persons. The l^eio Totv-n Hall, the Royal 
Exchamge, the Corn Exchange, are imposing mod- 
em structures. In front of the Royal Infirmary, 



114 ENGLAND. Doncaster. 

in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke of 
Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton 
(the chemist). Chetham College has a fine lib- 
rary (9.30 — 6). Owen's College (University of 
Manchester), in Oxford-St, is an elegant struc- 
ture. In the Grammar School De Quincey re- 
ceived his early education. See the Assize Courts, 
good example of Gothic architecture; the vast 
County Jail; the Museum of 'Natural History; 
the City Art Gallery; the Manchester Art Mu- 
seum; the Albert Memorial; the John Ryland's 
Library. 

Manchester is reached from London by the Mid- 
land Rly. (189 M,), which traverses a delicious 
country. It is 41 M. hence to Sheffield {Royal 
Victoria^ Midland; Angel; King's Head), the 
headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of 
England (with suburbs, 465,000 inhab.). Shef- 
field is shrouded in smoke, so that one scarcely 
gets a glimpse of its really fine situation on a 
chain of hills. 8t. Peter's Ch., with the Shrews- 
hii/ry Chapel; the Manor House, restored by the 
Duke of Norfolk ; the Shreioshury Hospital; the 
Univei'sity; the Mappin Art Gallery of modern 
paintings (10 — 5 daily; Sund. 2 — 5) ; the Public 
Museum (daily except Sund., 10-5) ; the statue 
of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer ; and the Cut- 
ters Hall, are the principal sights. From Shef- 
field it is 18 M. to 

Doncaster (Angel; Reindeer), a clean and 
well-built town, of Roman origin, on the Don ; 
notel for its fine Ch. of St. George, and for the 
famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near 



ENGLAND. Lincoln. 115 

by is the grand old Conisl)orough Castle, de- 
scribed in Ivmihoe.. It is 39 M. hence to the an- 
cient cathedral-town of 

Lincoln {Great Northern Railway Hotel; Sara- 
cen's Head; Spread Eagle; Knight's, temper- 
ance), which was at the time of the Norman 
Conquest one of the chief British cities. Under 
the Roman domination it had been one of the 
best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King 
Stephen was taken prisoner, after a battle at 
Lincoln by Robert, Earl of Gloucester. There 
the Dauphin's party was overthrown by the Earl 
of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s minority. The city 
was stormed by the Parliamentary army in 1644, 
The Cathedral (open daily, 8-5; choir and clois- 
ters, 6d. ; tower, 6d.) stands on the summit of a 
hill, whence it can be seen for many miles 
around. It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Rem- 
igius of Fecamp; destroyed by an earthquake, 
about 1200 ; and rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Ava- 
lon, 1220-60, and dedicated to the Virgin. The 
towers on the splendid W. front command a view 
down the vale of the Witham, as far as Boston. 
The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. front, 174 ft. • 
height of central tower, 260 ft. Note the Norman 
font of Remigius ; the Galilee Porch ; the choir, 
with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting ; 
the Easter Sepulchre ; the tomb of Queen Eleanor 
(restored) ; the delicately carved screens ; the lady 
chapel. The big bell weighs 5^ tons. See the 
Cloisters, on the N. side, and their Roman pave- 
ment. In the Library are many Roman antiqui- 
ties. Monuments of Catherine, wife of John of 
Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, of 
Dean Butler, Bishop Wordsworth, and many old 
bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. 
i 



116 ENGLAND. Boston.— Newark. 

is early English ; but part of the W. front is Nor- 
man. The 13th century produced nothing finer 
than the rose-window in the N. transept. In the 
S. transept there is also a fine rose-window. See 
the sculptured angels in the Preshytery, or Angel 
Choir. Near by is the Bishop's Palace, founded 
by Bp. Hugh, which had fallen into ruins but is 
now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected by William the 
Conqueror (now the county courts) ; the New- 
port, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments of 
the Roman wall; John of Gaunfs Palace; the 
Guildhall; the Arboretum; and the fine old Stone- 
bow gate. 

Boston {Peacock; Red Lion) is 1-1^ hrs. S. E. 
of Lincoln, and has 16,000 inhab., many antiqui- 
ties, and some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. 
It was called Botolph's Town from the saint who 
founded a monastery here, in 654. St. Botolph^s; 
Ch., built 1309, is the largest British parish ch. i 
without aisles, and is 291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, 
with a splendid tower, 300 ft. high, visible from 
afar over the sea and the fens. John Cotton was 
a vicar here, and U. S. Bostonians have restored 
one of the chapels in his memory. 32 M. by rly. 
from Boston is Peterborough. 

Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just out- 
side of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All 
Saints. At Newark (Clinton. Arms; The Sara- 
cen's Head) is St. Mary Magdalen, a splendid 
old ch., with fine brasses, stained windows, and 
a tall tower, sustaining statues of the apostles ; 
also a venerable ruined Castle, built in the reign 
of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein died King 
John. Belvoir Castle, the palace of the Duke of 
Rutland, is near by. Newark was once famous 
for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in 



ENGLAND. Nottingham. . 117 

the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes 
Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Mid- 
lothian to London. Just before reaching Notting- 
ham, the train traverses the grounds of ColwicJc 
Hall, where Byron's "Mary Chaworth" lived. 

Nottingham {Clarendon Hotel; Flying Horse; 
Victoria Station; Portland; George; Caledonian, 
temperance) stands on a rocky eminence N. of 
the river Trent. It is the chief place for the 
making of lace and hosiery in England (240,000 
inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of narrow 
and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an 
open area of 5^ acres, with the Exchange at its 
E. end. See the N. and S. Parades; Mortimer's 
Hole, a strange excavation from the castle to the 
river ; Standard Hill, where King Charles I. un- 
furled for the first time the royal flag in 1642 ; 
the Rock Holes; the Park; and Swinton Hermit- 
age. St. Mary's Ch. is a grand old ci-uciform 
building. This was a Danish town, and William 
I. erected a castle here, which was often besieged. 
The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red sand- 
stone, was destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has 
been restored, and is occupied by the City Mu- 
seum and Art Gallery (open 10-9, free; Frid. 
6d., Sund. Id.), containing a collection of an- 
tiquities, paintings, and drawings by several il- 
lustrators. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, 
to Belvoir Castle. The country round about is 
filled with memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, 
which he inherited when it was almost in ruins, 
is 11 M. N. W. Go by rail to Linby stat., 9^ M., 
and walk (1^ M.) to the house (open on Tues. 
and Frid. on pass obtained in advance). An Au- 
gustinian abbey was founded here by Henry II. 
in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The 



118 ENGLAND. Sherwood Forest. — Derby. 

grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence 
has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., "a 
glorious remnant of the Gothic pile," and the 
cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very 
fine ; the poet's mean bedroom is kept as he left 
it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are 
shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boat- 
swam, Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the 
lake, so often mentioned in the poems. 

Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, 
with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. 
RoMn Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near 
Newstead Abbey. 3 M. distant is Annesley Old 
Hall, containing the "antique oratory" mentioned 
in Byron's "The Dream." Hucknall Ch., where 
Ix)rd Byron, his mother, and his only daughter 
are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Returning to 
Nottingham, spend the night there, and take 
early train (15f M.) to 

Derby (Miidland Hotel; St. James; Royal; 
Wood's, temperance), and thence to Rowsley 
(Peacock Inn). Derby (106.000 inhab.) was the 
Roman stat. Derventio, and here Richardson the 
novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found 
near by. There are rare old monuments in the 
Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch. Derby is the 
entrance to that delightful region known as The 
Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to 
make detours can reach Derby or Row^sley, from 
Liverpool and Manchester, by the Midland Line. 
The Peak is a picturesque district, containing 
"that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and 
mt. limestone for which the county is so pre-emi- 
nent. This scenic interest, however, does not 
arise so much from the elevation of the hills as 
from their romantic grouping and the bold and 



ENGLAND, Haddon Hall. — Chatsworth. 119 

varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, 
which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach 
Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — 
except umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. 
cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver to 
take you to Haddon Hall (1^ M.) and Chats- 
worth (3 M.). Public conveyances will take par- 
ties for Is.'per person. Haddon Hall (adm. 4d.), 
on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a 
picturesque bridge, is an ancient seat of the 
Dukes of Rutland. There lived Sir George Ver- 
non (1545), whose profuse hospitality procured 
him the title of "King of the Peak ;" thence fair 
Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir 
John Manners ; and there, in the State Bed- 
chamber, are the famous tapestries illustrating 
^sop's Fables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. 
Visitors are shown the Chaplain's Room, the 
Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, the Dining-Room, 
with the inscription, "Drede God and honor the 
Kyng," over the fireplace ; the D ratving-Room, 
the State and Earl's Bedchambers, and PeveriVs 
Towei\ 

Chatsworth is the finest mansion in England. 
(Admission certain days only.) It is a favorite 
residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is 
called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall 
was used as a fortress in the Civil War, by forces 
of both King and Parliament. The present S. 
front dates from 1687 ; the E. siae, great hall, 
and staircase, from 1690 ; the N. front, from 1704. 
See the Conservatory, Great Hall (67x20 ft), 
L^hapel, Grand Draicing-Room, Libraries, Dining- 
Room. (58x30 ft.), Sculpture Gallery (103x30 
ft), Orangery, Sketch Gallery (original draw- 
ings by Angelo, Raphael, Dtirer, Titian, etc.), 



120 ENGLAND. Matlock Bath.— Bakewell. 

State Apartments, Gallery of Paintings (Titian, 
Salvator Rosa, Tintorretto, Murillo, Holbein, 
etc.). State Drawing-Room. Two of the 
state rooms are called those of Mary Queen of 
Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. 
The Arhwetum, Conservatory, and Gardens (6d. 
to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden 
comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid 
Houses; then the vast Conservatory (27Gxl23 
ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and go out by 
the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Towei~ and 
Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Queer old 
village of Edensor {Chatsicorth Hotel), outside 
Park gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord 
Frederick Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 
1882. 

Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Peacock 
Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write 
or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous 
Matlock Bath (A^ei<; Bath; Royal; Peveril, tem- 
perance) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the 
Derwent. Said Hawthorne: "I have never seen 
anywhere else such exquisite scenery." Rocky 
and foliage-clad crags rise 300 ft. above the river, 
and there are many fine grottos in them. Alas- 
son hill, 1,000 ft, high, commands a grand view 
down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from 
Matlock to Buxton (Palace; Old Hall; St. 
Ann's), 1 hr. from Manchester. Hot springs 
here, in the Wye Valley, used in the treatment of 
rheumatism and gout. 12 acres in public gar- 
dens. — Bakewell (Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine 
ch., with Vernon and Manners monuments. The 
rural beauty of this section is not surpassed in 
England. Hardicick Hall and Bolsover Castle, 
both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled 



ENGLAND. Birmingham. 121 

with art-treasures. The former may be reached 
from Clay Cross stat., between Derby and Shef- 
field; the later from Langicitli. Burton-on-Trent 
is the site of vast ale breweries. We now sug- 
gest that yen go from the Derbyshire district to 

Birmingham {Queen'' s Hotel; Plough & Har- 
roiv; Cohden, temperance). You can leave Not- 
tingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, 
Chatsworth, and Buxton, and get to Birmingham 
at night. Birmingham is the birthplace of 
Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great 
manufacturing place (525,000 inhab.). Camden 
said of old "Bremicham" (Brummagem ?), that 
"it echoed with the noise of anvils, for there were 
a great many smiths." Almost everything that 
can be made of metal is fabricated at Birming- 
ham. Walk through Corporation- St. and Colmon- 
Row. Visit the ElJdngton's Electro-plate Works; 
Gillott's Steel Pen Works; the Mint; the gun- 
works; the Town Hall, in which are held the 
renowned triennial musical festivals ; Council 
House, connected with which is the Corporation 
Free Library; Netv Post Office; Market Hall; 
Exchange; Birmingham and Midland Institute; 
King Edward VI.'s Free Grammar School; Ma- 
son College, now part of the University of Bir- 
mingham, the new buildings of which are at 
Bournbrook, one of the suburbs ; General Hos- 
pital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in the hand- 
seme Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens ( Is. ; 
on Mon., Id.) are worth notice. 

Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- 
hampton (Star and Garter; Talbot), the metrop- 
olis of the Black Country, which has manufac- 
turing trade in tin and iron goods (95,000 in- 
hab.). Things to see: St. Pete7-\s Ch.; Queen's- 



122 ENGLAND. Worcester. 

Square, with equestrian statue of Prince Albert ; 
Library; Theatre; OrpJtaii Asylum. — ^To (129 
M.) Stafford {Northioestern Hotel; Swan), a 
well-built modern town. Izaak Walton was a 
native of this place. See old timber-houses, es- 
pecially the Noah's Ai'Jc, in Crabbery-St. ; *S'^. 
Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the Bury Ring; 
Stafford Castle, l M. out. Leather is the chief 
industry. — To Kidderminster famous for the 
manufacture of carpets. The old ch. is a fine 
Gothic monument. A walk through the ch.-yard 
commands views of the town and river Stour. 
In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard 
Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester 
(Star Hotel; Crown; Central, temperance), 
nearly in the centre of England, and finely situ- 
ated on an ascent from the Severn. The Pore- 
gate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an 
elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 
78 wide, 102 high. Beautifully decorated is the 
lady chapel, where the roof is covered with fig- 
ures painted in medallions. The fine stone pulpit 
in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal 
cross above the choir-screen. Among the monu- 
ments is King John's, one of the most ancient in 
England ; statues of Bishops Wulstan. Oswald 
and Hough ; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry 
v., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the 
monks once resided are interesting. The hand- 
some decagonal chapter-house is now used as a 
national school. Other public buildings: Epis- 
copal Palace, close by the Severn : the Command- 
ery ; Edgar's Totver; the Guildhall (open 10-G). 
with royal statues ; and the Hopmarket, the most 
important in England. 



ENGLAND. Co\'entry. 123 

Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, 
Stratford-on-Avon. 

It is a relief to get out of the region of fac- 
tories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry 
(King's Head; Queen's; Priory, temperance). 
Distance from Birmingham, 18| M. Coventry 
was formerly the third city in the kingdom. 
Everyone knows the story of Lady Godiva. An 
effigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited at 
the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II. 's 
time the city was defended by a wall, with 26 
towers and 12 gates, some of which remain ; but 
the greater part of them were destroyed by Charles 
II. Coventry retains much of its ancient pictur- 
esque aspect, with narrow streets, fine old gables, 
and half-timber houses, and several hrs. can be 
profitably spent there. The "three tall spires" of 
which Tennyson speaks are those of St. Michael's, 
Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. MichaeVs, one of 
the finest ' Gothic structures in England, was 
founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. 
high, was built 1373-95. The ch. was rebuilt in 
1434, and is 400 ft. long. "Most magnificent, — so 
old, yet enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne 
found it. TriniUj Ch. is close to St. Michael's, 
and was once a fine specimen of Gothic, Dug- 
dale finds a mention of its annexation to the 
Benedictine Priory in 1260. Christ Ch. was 
founded by the begging Greyfriars. The spire is 
the only remaining part of the old ch. ; St. John's 
Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, is a fine old 
building, with a massive tower. St. Mary's Hall 
is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael's. It orig- 
inally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and was 



124 ENGLAND. Kenilworth. 

built about the middle of the 14th century. The 
Free (School; €h'ey friar ,s or Ford Hospital; the 
Workhouse, built out of the remains of the 
Whitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and 
the remnants of the gates, are other objects of 
interest. A few fragments of the Benedictine 
Priory, founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. 
out is Stoneleigh Abbey, a place of great an- 
tiquity, held before the conquest by King Edward. 
Henry II. granted it to a body of Cistercian 
monks. The site is a lovely one, the Avon bath- 
ing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the 
Oi«.i monastic house was located. There is a fine 
[)ark in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon by 
an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. 
The building is clothed with ivy, and its ponder- 
ous oaken gates are very curious. Within the 
state apartments are many paintings by Rem- 
brandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc. 

For those who have time, nothing can be more 
delightful than a leisurely tour on foot from 
Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Strat- 
ford-on-Avon ; going out from this region of fine 
old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, 
by Rugby, and thence either straight down to 
London, or to Peterboro' and Ely, making a de- 
tour to Cambridge and Oxford. For those who 
desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford, 
and get away to London at night, there will be 
no other course than to take a carriage at Cov- 
entry, Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A 
beautiful trip is as follows : Go from Coventry 
(5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine 
elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth (King's 
Arms; Abbey; Castle), where chief attraction 
is Kenihoorth Castle, standing on an eminence 



ENGLAND. Kenilworth. 125 

to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hollow 
overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side 
walls of the Gallery Toiver, the S. E. end of the 
Tilt Yard, and originally the chief entrance to 
the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. wall (adm. 
6d.), and first arrive at Leicester's Oatelwuse, a 
square building of four stories, flanked at each 
angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. 
This building is not entered by visitors, as it is 
a private residence. Passing on, you come di- 
rectly in front of the main buildings ; and look- 
ing W. have the inner court in full view. The 
E. side of the square was composed of buildings 
erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir Robert 
Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the 
r. is Cws-ar's Tower, a vast keep of immense 
strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond 
is the building called Mervyn's Tower, which 
all readers of Scott's novel of Kenihoorth will 
visit. The chambers are all arched with stone, 
and it is supposed that they served as prisons 
in the time of Henry II. From the top may be 
seen on the r. the remains of the Stvan Tower, 
which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls 
built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn 
Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hall, 
built by John of Gaunt. The floor was supported 
on a stone vaulting, carried on parallel rows of 
pillars, the remains of which may be seen. No- 
tice the great height of the windows, which were 
filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the 
Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the Pres- 
ence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber ; and still 
S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of 
great height and remarkable architectural 
beauty. The castle was founded by Geoffroy de 



126 ENGLAND. Warwick. 

Clinton, Chamberlain to Henry I. ; to pass pres- 
ently to the crown of Henry III. It was granted 
to Simon de Montford, and became the resort 
for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester's de- 
feat and death, his eldest son sheltered himself 
in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in 
which the castle held out for 6 months. In 
Edward I.'s time a magnificent tournament oc- 
curred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the 
castle at one time; and the visits of Elizabeth 
to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. The 
last was immortalized by Scott. 

From Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick 
is about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village built 
on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 
M. beyond is Blacklow Hill, where, from an 
opening in the trees, is seen the monument 
erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaves- 
ton, Earl of Cornwall, was beheaded. If M. 
from Warwick, is Guy's Cliff, the handsome 
country-seat of I^rd Percy, and a place of re- 
ligious retirement more than 4 centuries pre- 
vious to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who 
is supposed at this place to have finished his 
life of adventure, as a hermit. Leland, in Henry 
VIII. 's time, calls this "the abode of pleasure, 
a place meet for the Muses." Camden, Dug- 
dale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in 
its praise. Guy's Cave and Guy's Well are 
shown. 

Warwick (Warwick Arms; Dale Temperance; 
these houses, though comfortable, are small and 
apt to be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for 
rooms in advance) is near the centre of beauti- 
ful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which 
the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin, 



ENGLAND. Warwick Castle. 127 

and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, 
of which there are now but few remnants. The 
old gates are interesting; and the Hospital, 
founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the 
finest specimens of half-timber buildings. It 
stands at the W. end of High-St., of which its 
chapel, which possesses a very beautiful window, 
forms a striking ornament. Under the chapel is 
a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, 
through which an entrance into the town once 
passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- 
champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the 
chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the for- 
tifications. It has a richly groined ceiling. In 
this hospital a limited number of brothers are 
allowed. They have to wear a livery when 
abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth 
gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged 
staff, Lord Leicester's device. St. Mary's is the 
principal ch. in Warw^ick. It was founded prior 
to the Conquest ; and contains many curious 
monuments, and Beauchamp Chapel, w^hich is 
considered the most splendid in England, after 
that of Henry VII. 

Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences 
in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock 
which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the 
castle, walk down to the stone bridge, from 
which there is a fine view of the castle. The 
moonlight view is striking. Enter the castle by 
a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bor- 
dered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, 
formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in 
the time of Henry IV. On the r. is Guy's Tower, 
128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 
10 ft. thick ; and on the 1. the venerable Cwsar's 



128 ENGLAND. Warwick Castle. 

Tower, coeval with the Norman Conquest. This 
is connected with Guy's Tower by an embattled 
wall, in the centre of which is the great arched 
gateway, flanked by towers and succeeded by a 
second, whose towers and battlements rise above . 
those of the first. After passing the double gate- 
way you are in the inner court, and see the 
great castle directly in front of you. When the 
family is absent the interior is shown (10-5.30, 
2s.). The rooms showm are the Great Hall, from 
which a view is obtained through the state 
rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at 
the W. end by a window. From this great hall 
may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Pas- 
sage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles 
I. You pass through the Red draicing-Room; 
the Cedar Drawing-Room, containing a bust by 
Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by 
Van Dyck ; and next enter the Gilt Drawing- 
room, which contains many old paintings. The 
bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged 
to Queen Anne. The tapestry in this room is 
very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum ; 
and the effect of the immense height, and the 
tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, 
is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Ru- 
bens, Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through 
the Armory Passage to a billiard room, rich 
with portraits ; a Compass-Room, the Chapel, and 
the Lil)rary, in which is the famous Kenilworth 
buffet, made of oak grown on the Kenilworth es- 
tate. In the Breakfast Room is a fine collection 
Oi paintings by Canaletto, who resided for some 
time at the castle. (Fee to servant who shows 
the apartments : for one person, 6d. or Is. ; for 
a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar's Tower, nearly 150 



ENGLAND. Stratford-on-Avon. 129 

ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon be 
neath it, on the walls of which are scrawls made 
by prisoners. Guy's Tower, the top of which 
is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a 
noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff. 
Leamington, and the neighborhood. The gardens 
are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are 
some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the Porter's 
Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne 
calls this "one's very idea of an old castle." 
From Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. 
runs from Leamington through Warwick to 
Stratford. (From Warwick to Stratford, 13i 
M.) The most desirable route, however, is by 
highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past Charlcote, 
the counti-y-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. This 
is a delightful excursion, and we recommend 
those who can to make it on foot, that they may 
linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and 
approach Stratford through the pleasant mead- 
ows. Charlcote House is off the route to Strat- 
ford, but the drivers usually take you close to 
it. It is a handsome mansion in the midst of a 
beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight 
of which will call to mind the youthful adven- 
ture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- 
cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas 
Lucy immortal as Justice Shallow. From Charl- 
cote you pass through numerous fine bits of 
woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge, 
enter ^ 

Stratford-on-Avon { Sliake spear e ; Golden Lion; 
Red Horse; Falcon; Fountain; McNeille's, tem- 
perance), quiet old-fashioned place, with wide, 
well-kept streets and many handsome mansions. 
The Totvn Hall was dedicated to the memory of 



130 ENGLAND. Stratford-on-Avon. 

the poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare pre- 
sented by Garrick. On the pedestal see lines from 
Hamlet : "Take him for all in all, we shall not 
look upon his like again." Very interesting is the 
Shakespeare Memorial Buildimj and Theatre, 
which we advise you to visit first on entering 
the town. This memorial structure, in a charm- 
ing situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth 
of the feeling that the poet should have a suit- 
able monument in his native town. 

Holy Trinity Church is a cruciform edifice, 
consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and 
chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a 
lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a 
ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint 
inscriptions. If the doors are not open, the 
driver will go for the keys. The ch. contains 
interesting monuments and some very quaint 
wood-carvings. The grave of Shakespeare is in 
the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flag- 
stone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is 
an ornamental arch with a bust of Shakespere, 
in a thoughtful attitude. i 

From this burial-place of genius it js but a 
short distance to the village of Shottery, where 
stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage 
once the residence of Anne Hathaway. In this 
humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. It 
is owned by the Nation, but the present occupant 
shows the quaint interior ; the oaken seat on 
which Shakespeare and Anne were wont to sit ; 
many bits of venerable furniture ; and, up-stairs, 
a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway has 
drawn the last breath of life. One is also shown a 
visitors' book, which contains the names of a 
great number of eminent Englishmen and Ameri- 



ENGLAND. Stratfobd-on-Avon. 131 

cans (small fee). Return to Stratford and in 
Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. 
This is a fine old half-timber building, in which 
the poet was born (1564), and where his family 
long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the 
ground floor, one of which is a museum ; of the 
room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs ; 
and smaller rooms, in one of which is the cele- 
brated Stratford portrait of the bard, unlike 
the commonly received pictures, but believed by 
many people to be more authentic. It was 
painted over in Puritan times to escape destruc- 
tion. The room in which the poet was bom is 
in its original state, except that visitors of every 
nation and every rank have scribbled their names 
on the walls and windows. The autographs of 
Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., 
the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, 
Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed 
out. The house is now the property of the na- 
tion, having been purchased in 1847 by public 
subscription. In the museum are early editions 
of Shakespeare's plays ; the deed made in 1596, 
showing that John Shakespeare, the father of 
the poet, resided in this house ; a letter from 
Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1598, re- 
questing a loan of £30, the only letter known to 
be in existence, addressed to the poet; Shakes- 
peare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon 
it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- 
moved from the Grammar School ; the Shakes- 
peare jug, from which Garrick drank at the 
Jubilee in 1769 ; and a sword, which once be- 
longed to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, 
written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bona- 
parte, and others, are also to be seen. Visitors 



132 ENGI^AND. Stratford-on-Avon. 

register their names. The old visitors' books 
are most curious. The first one, beginning in 
1812, may be seen at Mrs. Jame's, near the Town 
Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's 
birthplace, Is., daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should 
now come to New Place, where Shakespeare 
lived during his prosperous latter years, and 
where he died (1616). It is to-day merely a 
well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite 
■^ the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269; chancel 
rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of the 
adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, 
where Shakesioeare was one of the pupils. Visit 
one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse 
and the Shakespeare ; the former, where you can 
lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, 
unromantic-looking house, rendered interesting 
by the genius of Washington Irving. There 
Americans are shown the room where he stayed ; 
a chair, with his name engraved on a brass plate ; 
the poker with which he poked the fire, etc. 

Harvard House, where John Harvard's mother. 
Catherine Rogers, lived, is now the property of 
Harvard University, and is the general meet- 
ing place for American pilgrims (admission 
cards, good for one day, Is.). 

From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leaming- 
ton (Manor House: Regent; York, temperance), 
a famous watering place, with sulphureted saline 
springs. The most important building is the 
Royal Pump Room and Baths. The Toum Hall 
is a handsome building. 

You may go directly from Warwick to London 
(97| M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; 
but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peter- 
borough, Ely, Cambridgo, and Northampton ; 



ENGLAND. Rugby. — Peterborough. 133 

then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You 
will pass through 

Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Three Horse- 
shoes), Dicken's Mughy Junction, famous for its 
Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the 
celebrated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the 
readers of Tom Brown will perhaps wash to visit 
the school. Close by is Castle ■ Mount, where 
a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 
1| M. out is Bilton Hall, where Addison lived. 
In the garden is Addison's favorite walk. After 
leaving Rugby you soon reach 

Peterborough (Grand; Great Northern; 
Angel; Bull), anciently called Medeshamstede, 
and deriving its origin from a noted Benedictine 
Abbey, established in 655, shortly after the Sax- 
ons had become Christianized. The Danes de- 
stroyed this abbey (807), and it was restored in 
966. Then the towm was named after the saint 
to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when 
Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was 
one of the most magnificent in the kingdom, 
and was selected as the see of one of the new 
bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered 
cruelly during the civil wars ; and the cathedral 
itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry 
VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Cath- 
erine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. 
The Cathedral is a noble Norman structure, 471 
ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, 
once reposed here. The cloisters are in excel- 
lent preservation. At the W. end of the cathe- 
dral is a fine court, on the S. side of which a 
range of the old monastic structures is still erect. 
The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, 
has been called "the grandest portico in Europe." 



134 ENGLAND. Ely. 

See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken 
screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. 
Hawthorne said : "Of all the lovely closes that 
I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral 
is the most delightful, — so quiet, so solemnly 
and nobly cheerful." Most of the beautiful 
^ass and all the records in the cathedral were 
destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end 
was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the 
Baptist there are some exquisite figures by Flax- 
man. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, 
coal, etc. 2 M. out is Milton Park, the seat of 
Earl Fitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor, with 
a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. 
away is Foth&ringhay, with a splendid ruined 
ch., and the ruins of the old Plantagenet castle 
in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. 
From Peterborough it is 30 M. to 

Ely (Lamb; Ball; Minster, temperance.) The 
Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens ; 
and here a monastery was founded by St. Ethel- 
dreda (673). A charter was granted by Edgar, 
confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor, and 
the Pope. The isle made an excellent defence 
against William the Conqueror. The Cathedral 
was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- 
able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee 
is a beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a 
superb Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note 
the new oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich 
marble carvings in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop 
Alcock's Chapel; Prior Crandene's Chapel; and 
the ancient Bishop's Palace. There is a Pa/rk 
S. of the Cathedral. The Lady Chapel was be- 
gun in the reign of Edward II., and is consid- 
ered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind. 



ENGLAND. Cambridge. 135 

Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic cathedral 
(but one) in Europe (537 ft). The W. tower 
is 266 ft. high. For technical description see 
King's Hand-Book of English Cathedrals, which 
is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. 
From Ely proceed to 

Cambridge {University Anns; Ye Olde Castle; 
Bull; Sirdar; Blue Boar; Livingstone, temper- 
ance), 56 M. from London, and on the Cam, a 
narrow stream that rambles all over the town. 
Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation 
of the University ; but the oldest college, Peter- 
house or St. Peter's, can be referred only to 
1257. The public buildings are the Shire Hall, 
Totvn Hall, University Halls and Lddrary, and 
Fitzioilliarn Museum. 

There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural 
beauty to those of Oxford, though their associa- 
tions are quite as interesting. Trinity was 
founded by Henry VIII. in 1546, and has 3 fine 
quadrangles ; a splendid hall in the Tudor style ; 
gardens ; and an important library, with busts 
of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue 
of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Mil- 
ton's MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 
1442, was Milton's college. In the gardens is 
Milton's M nil) e7Ty 'Tree. The quadrangle was 
rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) 
and Chapel are very fine buildings, on the site 
of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced 
Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged in 
1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. 
Rebuilt lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus 
Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, es- 
pecially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Eras- 
mus, and Foxe, the author of the Book of Mar- 



136 ENGLAND. Norwich. 

tjfrs. King's College (1441), founded by Henry 
VI., is the finest building in the University. The 
chapel is the finest specimen of perpendicular 
Gothic existing. The roof, unsupported by pil- 
lars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace-work 
tracery in stone. The 24 stained-glass windows, 
each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is 
exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to 
the Sunday service. St. John's, founded by Mar- 
garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 
4 quadrangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare 
old library. See also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose 
erine's (1475) ; Clare (1326) ; Doioning (1807) ; 
erine's (1475) ; Clare (1326) ; Dotcning (1807) ; 
Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney ^Sus'sex (1596) ; Mag- 
dalene (1519) ; Trinity Hall (1347). 

The most striking part of Cambridge is "the 
Backs," where the college gardens slope down to 
the river, overhung by beautiful trees and 
crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cam- 
bridge is fla't. and forins part of the great Fen 
Level. 

Norwich {Royal; Maid's Head; Waterloo, 
temperance), may be conveniently visited from 
Cambridge. It is a cathedral town of 125,0(X) 
inhabitants, the capital of Norfolk. The Cathe- 
dral, a Norman structure dating from the 11th 
century, is open daily; adm. to choir, transepts, 
and cloisters. 10-1, 2-6, 6d. The tower is pure 
Norman, with a lofty tower. The Cathedral 
close is beautiful in spring and summer; note 
the gates, the Erpingham of the 15th century, 
and St. Ethelbert's of the 13th century, except 
for the upper part which is more recent. The 
Castle, Norman now the home of the Norfolk 
MuKeum of Natural History, is open daily, 10-4, 



ENGLAND. Newmarket. — Bedford. 137 

adni. 3d. Tues. and Fri., other days free ; adm. 
to the battlements (fine view), 6d. The ch. 
of St. Peter contains a rural tablet to the 
memory of Sir Thomas Browne, the author of 
"Religio Medici," and a statue of the same is 
in the Haymarket near the church. See the Guild 
Hall with Tudor interior and relics of Nelson: 
St. Andreiv's Hall, formerly a Dominican church, 
in which is held the biennial musical festival for 
which the city is famous ; and Colman's mustard 
works. 

Two popular watering places on the E. coast 
are Lowestoft {Grand; Empire; Royal) and Yar- 
mouth (Royal; Victoria; Queen's; Cromwell, 
temperance). These are also centers of the her- 
ring fishery. 

Ipswich (White Horse; Golden Lion; Coach 
and Horses), is a seaport of growing importance, 
the capitar of Suffolk (72,000 inhab.) From 
Harwich (Royal), or rather from Parkeston 
Quay, 2 miles away (Great Eastern), steamers 
sail for the Hook of Holland, Antwerp, Hamburg, 
and Esbjerg. 

Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the 
famous turf resort, which became popular in 
the days of James I,, who had a hunting-seat 
here. Near by is Burj' St. Edmunds, where an 
abbey (whose noble ruins remain) was founded 
by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of 
Edmond. We proceed next to 

Bedford (Swan; Emhankment; Red Lion), 
once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in 
Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and 
Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The 
Pilgrim'' s Progress, still exists. Bunyan's birth- 
place was Elstoic, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there 



138 ENGLAND. Northampton. — Oxford. 

his cottage and forge are shown. Also a noble 
abbey-eh. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preach- 
ing, and holding the Bible. This stands on St. 
Peter's Green. Scenes from The Pilgrim's Prog- 
ress on pedestal. The Duke of Bedford gave 
this statue to the town. The philanthropist 
Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. 
The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, 
destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bed- 
ford it is but a very short journey to 

Northampton {George; Angel; Plough), the 
seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (88,000 
inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here be- 
tween the 12th and 14th centuries ; and on one 
occasion the University was transferred hither 
from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception 
of one tower, was demoiished in 1662. The old 
Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas k Becket, 
is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, — St. 
Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Templar, on 
the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; 
the Town Hall; the Sliire Hall; Statue by 
Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. 
Queen Eleanor's Cross is 1 M. S. Near this 
relic Henry VI. was defeated by Warwick in 
1460. Althorp Park, seat of Earl Spencer, with 
famous library and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. 
Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to 

Oxford (Randolph; Clarendon; Mitre; Roe- 
buck; Eastgate; King's Arms Hotel; Golden 
Cross; Wilherforce, temperance). The modern 
town contains the County Jail, near the old 
tower of Oxford Castle ; the Toun Hall : and the 
Martyr's Memorial, a Gothic monument in St. 
Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and 
Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555-6. 



ENGLAND. Oxford. 139 

Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time 
of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The orig- 
inal town was demolished by the Danes. The 
traditions of modern Oxford go back to the 
Conquest, after which the monasteries founded 
there obtained great fame for their learning. 
The town-plan is a cross, 4 broad streets con- 
verging from the cardinal points. The central 
point is called Corfax, a corruption of quatre 
voles, or quatre faces. The curve of High-St, 
with its splendid architectural monuments, 
makes it one of the finest streets in Europe. 

Public buildings to be visited : The Schools ; 
Bodleian Library, with its interesting portraits 
(daily, 9-4; adm. 3d.) ; Radcliffe Observatory; 
Taylor Institution; University Galleries (open 
daily, 11-4; adm. 3d.), containing important 
drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; the 
Aslimolean Museum in the same building con- 
taius the Arundel Marbles, an old collection of 
curiosities, and an archaeological collection of 
great value ; University Museum, a modern Gothic 
building in the Park (open daily, 10-2, 6d. ; 2-4, 
3d.). The laboratories are worthy of notice 
(open daily, after 2 p.m.). See the beautiful 
Gh. of 8t. Mary. University College was founded, 
according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the 
Great, but it dates historically from 1280. Im- 
posing high-towered gateways, new library, etc. 
Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devor- 
gilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King 
of Scotland), in 1268. The building has been 
restored, and new halls built. Merton (1264), 
handsome tower and curious old architecture. 
Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter 
(1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy 



140 ENGLAND. IvONDon. 

of La Saintc ChapeUe, at Paris). Very large 
buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel 
(132G), where at one time studied Arnold, Keble, 
Newman, Pusey, and Wilberforce. Queen's 
(1431). with hall designed by Wren. New Col- 
lege (1380), one of the finest architecturally, 
with beautiful cloisters ; fine chapel and splendid 
choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley's college. 
All Souls' (1437), fine buildings in two quad- 
rangles. Magnificent chapel, with reredos. 
Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maudlen), 
founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, 
cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the 
Cherwell. Splendid chapel (famous choral ser- 
vice, 5 P.M. during term), Brasenose (1512), 
Bishop Heber's college. Corpus Christi (151(>), 
almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, 
founded by Cardinal Wolsey (1525). Fagade 
400 ft. long. Attached to this foundation is the 
Cathedral of Christ Ch. (once the ch. of St. 
Frideswide's Priory). The college tower con- 
tains a bell, Creat Tom, which weighs 17.000 lbs. 
Fine library and pictures. Immense quadrangle. 
Through the new buildings pass into the beauti- 
ful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on the 
rivers Isis and Cherwell. ). Trinity (1554), 
beautiful gardens and walks, with classical 
tower and chapel. St. John's (15oo), magnificent 
late Gothic buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus 
(1571), frequented largely by Welshmen. Fine 
hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (lOlS), beau- 
tiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with tim- 
ber roof. Pembroke (1624), Samuel Johnson's 
college. Worcester (1714), beautiful gardens and 
lake. Keble, built by subscription as a memo- 
rial to the Rev. John Keble, in 1870. 




General Map of London showing Main Streeij 




d iblic Buildings, and Chief Railway Stations. 



ENGLAND. Lors^DON. 141 

Oxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63^ 
M. by N. Western, 78 m. (lis., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). 
London. 

Hotels. — Ritz, Berkeley, Piccadilly; Carlton, 
Pall Mall ; Brotcn's and St. George's Hotel, 
Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens ; Cla- 
ridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St. ; Windsor, Vic- 
toria-St. ; Buckingham Palace Hotel; St. Erynin's, 
Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PI. ; Ford's, Man- 
chester-St. ; De Keyser's Royal, Blackfrairs 
Bridge ; Savoy. Cecil, Tbames Embanlvment ; 
Morley's, Trafalgar Sq. ; Victoria, Grand, Met- 
ropole, Northumberland Ave. ; Cnrso-n, Mayfair ; 
Waldoi'f, Aldwych ; Cadogan and Hans Crescent 
Hotel, Sloane-St. ; South Kensington Hotel, 
Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner ; Royal Palace. 
Kensington High-St. ; Bailey's, Gloucester Rd. : 
Hotel Russell and Imperial, Russell Sq. ; Bed- 
ford Hotel and Premier Hotel, Southampton 
Row ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Hol- 
born ; Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. ; 
Cavendish, Prince's, Jermyn-St. There are sev- 
eral good hotels for men only, among which may 
be mentioned Fairstock, Covent Garden, and 
Cox's Jermyn-St. A peculiar institution of 
London and some other English towns is the 
temperance hotel ; of this class are West Central, 
Southampton Row ; Eingsley, Hart-St. ; Thack- 
eray, Gt. Russell St. ; Endsleigh Palace, Ends- 
leigh Gardens ; Waverley. Southampton Row ; 
IvanJwe, Bloomsbury. Each of the principal 
ry. stations has a large and often good hotel 
connected with it ; there are the Great Eastern, 
Liverpool-St ; City Terminus Hotel. Cannon-St. ; 
Holborn Viaduct: Midland Grand, St. Pancras 
Station; Gt. Western, Paddington Station; Great 



142 ENGLAND. London. — Restaurants. 

Oentral, Marylebone Station ; Grosvenor, Vic- 
toria Station; Charing Cross: Great Northeim. 
King's Cross ; Euston, Euston Sq. In Albermarle, 
New Bond, Dover, Arlington-St., James and Clif- 
ford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and 
around Covent Garden and the Strand are also 
many excellent houses. At the strand Palace 
Hotel, in the Strand, no tips to the servants are 
allowed. At the great houses, single rooms, 4s.- 
15s. per day ; attendance, Is. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 
6d.-3s. 6d. ; tahle d'hote dinner, without wine, 
5s. ; luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner 
is Ts. 6d. to 10s. 6d. In hotels of the second or- 
der bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, Is.-ls. 
6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. ; dinner, 3s.-4s. Beware of 
ordering dinner a la carte in the coffee-rooms : 
the bill may become enormous. If you stay 
more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait on 
you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are 
several excellent private boarding establishments 
patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished 
Lodgings without board are not expensive. Very 
good double bedrooms may be had for 15s.-21s. 
per week ; breakfast per person, in the house. 
Izs. 6d.-15s. per week ; single bedrooms, 8s.-14s. 
per week. 

Restaurants. — Among these we may mention 
the Trocadero, Piccadilly and Criterion, in Picca- 
dilly Circus ; Frascati, Oxford-St. ; Verrey, Re- 
gent- St. ; Holhorn. corner Kingsway and High 
Holborn; Pagani. Great Portland-St. ; Kcttner's, 
Soho ; i)/eM(Zo/?ne. Ryder-St. ; F/ore/<cr. Rupert-St. ; 
Siinpsoji's, Romano's, Gatti's, Tivoli Grand, Col- 
onnade, Adelphi, in the Strand; Old Blue Post 
Tavern, Cook-St., W. ; Prince's, Piccadilly. In 
the City are the Auction Mart, Tokenhouse 



ENGLAND. LtONDon.— Underground Ry. 143 

Yard ; London Tavern, Fenchurch-St. ; Pimm's, 
Poultry-St; Old Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office 
Court ; Stoeetmgs, Cheapside, Birch's, Cornhill ; 
Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-St. ; The Rainliotv, 
Fleet-St. Many of the large hotels have good, 
but expensive restaurants and admit outsiders 
to their talkie dlwte dinners. 

A Round-Trip Omnibus Route.— From Trafal- 
gar Sq. take a Blaekwall (blue) omnibus via 
Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet-St., Ludgate 
Hill, Cheapside, the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate, 
Whitechapel, Commercial Rd., to Burdett Rd. 
Get down here and take tramway (yellow horse- 
car) through Victoria Park. Walk up the Victoria 
Park Rd., and at the end of the road take the 
tram to City Rd., past Hackney and Old St. Rd. 
City Rd. crosses Old-St. Rd. Take tram (blue) 
to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. 
and Holloway Rd. From Holloway Rd., a car 
may be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's 
Cross, and from King's Cross take (green) omni- 
bus to The Castle, Camden Town. Walk to the 
Britannia, Camden Town and take a (claret) 
Camden Town omnibus to Bishop's Rd. through 
Park-St, St. John's Wood Rd., past Lords 
Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church-St., Padding- 
ton Green. From where this omnibus stops an- 
other (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., 
Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, 
King William St. and London Bridge. From 
London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the 
Elephant and Castle. From this point take a 
tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omni- 
bus to Trafalgar Square. 

The Underground Railways are convenient. 
The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Rys. 



144 ENGLAND. London. 

run in a circle from Netting Hill Gate to Aid- 
gate and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. 
The City and South London Electric Ry., the 
Waterloo and City Ry. and the Bakerloo (Baker 
St., Waterloo) pass in tunnels beneath the 
Thames, the former to Clapham Common, the 
two latter to Waterloo Station. The Great 
Northern, PiccadiUy and Brompton Ry. runs 
from Finsbury Park to Hammersmith. The 
Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Ry. runs 
from Charing Cross to Golden's Grove. The 
Great Northern and City Ry. runs from Fins- 
burj^ Park to Moorgate Street. The Central Lon- 
don Ry., called popularly the "Twopenny Tube," 
runs in nearly a straight line from the Bank of 
England to Shepherd's Bush. Tramways in out- 
lying districts are numerous, fares 2d. to 3d. 
Omnibuses, horse and motor, run in all direc- 
tions, fares from M. to 7d., according to dis- 
tance. 

Cal)- fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which 
Charing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : 
for any distance under 2 M., Is. ; for every addi- 
tional M. or fraction, 6d. Within central part 
of London the ordinary course is rarely more 
than Is. Taximeter cabs charge 8d. for 1st M. 
or 10 min., 2d. for each succeeding { M. or 2^ 
min. Outside 4-M. circle, Is. per M. When en- 
gaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called grow- 
lers, inside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s. ; 
for every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d. 
per pk. ; hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every addi- 
tional 15 min., 8d. Some of the cabs are fitted 
with taximeters ; others which carry little flags 
charge only 6d. a mile. 

Theatres, etc. — The following are the prin- | 




'lington House as Centre. 




Tlie " City " of London {The Ci 




s are indicated by the dotted lines). 



ENGLAND. London. 145 

cipal theatres: Aldwych, Strand ; Apollo, Shaftes- 
bury Ave. ; Adelphi, Strand ; Comedy, Panton 
St., Haymarket ; Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Gar- 
den (opera); Criterion, Piccadilly Circus; 
Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane, Catherine St. ; 
Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane; Garrick, 
Charing Cross Rd. ; Gaiety, Strand ; Hippodrome ; 
Haymarket; Little Theatre; Lyric, Shaftesbury 
Ave. ; Londoti Opera House; His Majesty's, Hay- 
market ; Lyceum; 'New Royalty, Dean St.. 
Shaftesbury Ave. ; Neto Theatre, St. Martin's 
Lane; The Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coven- 
try St. ; Savoy, Strand ; Scala Theatre, Charlotte 
• 7S 8haftesl)ury, Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. 
James's, King St. ; Terry's, Strand ; Vaude- 
ville, Strand ; Waldorf, Aldwych ; Wyndhami's, 
Charing Cross Rd. The E. End theatres, of 
which there are several, are worth a visit 
to get an idea of how the lower classes take 
their amusement. Music-halls abound. The 
best are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the Al- 
hamhi'a and the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Met- 
ropolitan, Edgeware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftes- 
bury Ave.; the Tivoli, Strand; and the Pavilion, 
in Piccadilly Circus. The Aquarium, at West- 
minster, gives varied entertainments. Visitors 
in winter will find the best pantomimes at Drury 
Lane and Covent Garden. In South London is 
the Surrey Theatre, in Blackfriars Road, which 
was at first a circus and later, after being re- 
built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Prom- 
enade concerts are held in Aug. and Sept., at 
Covent Garden ; good concerts are plenty during 
the season at St. James's Hall, Queen's Hall. 
the Royal Albert Hall. The latter has a cele- 
brated organ of 10,000 pipes and 130 stops. 



146 ENGLAND. London. — Museums. 

Museums.— The Britisli Museum, Great Rus- 
sell St. ; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, 
Cambridge Rd. ; paintings, food products, Brit- 
ish butterflies, etc. ; Wed. 6d., other days free. 
Geological, Jermyn St. ; 10 till dusk ; free on 
introduction by a member. Natural History, 
South Kensington ; 10 till dusk ; free. South 
Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John Soane's, 13 
Lincoln's Inn Fields ; antiquities ; 10 till dusk, 
free on application. United Service, Whitehall 
Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, 
etc.; admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. 
Kensington ; free. Architecture, Tufton St. ; free. 
Antiquarian, Burlington House ; free on applica- 
tion to secretary. Guildhall, King St. ; London 
antiquities; free. Botanical. Regent's Park; free 
on order from one of the Fellows. Linncean, 
Burlington House; free on Member's order. 
Royal College of Surgeons, Lincoln's Inn Fields: 
anatomical and pathological specimens. The 
Wallace Collection of paintings, furniture, cera- 
mics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House, Man- 
chester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks 
are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), j 
with 200 figures of celebrities. The Tate collec- i 
tion of paintings, etc., on the Embankment, one 
of the finest in London. 

The City lies between Temple Bar (W.) and 
Aldgate (E.), the Thames (S.) and Smithfield 
and Finsbury Circus (N.), and has about 60,000 
inhab. and the great offices, warehouses, etc. 
Westminster lies between the city and Chelsea, 
Oxford St. and the Thames, and has the chief 
palaces and modern streets. There are also 
eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, 
in the "Metropolitan District," which, covers 690 



ENGLAND. London.— St. Paul's. 147 

square M,, having 6,600 M. of streets, and 550,- 
000 buildings. 

St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 
1675-1710, on a site before occupied by a temple 
of Diana, a Roman British ch., and King Ethel- 
bert's ch., built in 610 and destroyed in 1666. 
Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213) ; 
Wyckliffe was cited for heresy (1337) ; and Tyn- 
dale's New Testament was burned (1537). St. 
Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500x118 
ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long ; inner dome, 225 ft. 
high; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. 
Peter's and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are 
larger. It is open from 10 a. m. to dark. Ser- 
vices at 8 and 10 a. m., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee 
at Crypt, 6d. ; Whispering and Stone Galleries, 
6d. ; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is. 6d. The W. front is 
flanked by high campaniles. The interior is vast, 
but bare. See organ and wood carvings in the 
choir, and monuments of Howard, the philan- 
thropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean Milman ; 
Bishop^ Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the his- 
torian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John 
Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the 
porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, 
Nelson, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; 
and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, 
Lawrence, Turner. Fusel i, and Barry. From 
the S. aisle, ascend to Lihrarij (10,000 vols.), 
Whispering Gallery, Stone Gallery, and Ball 
The St. Paul's Cross which formerly stood in the 
churchyard and was removed in 1643, has been 
re-erected in more imposing style. It is a col- 
umn, 52 feet high, surmounted with a statue, 9 
feet high, of St. Paul. Hare speaks of St. Paul's 
as "sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity 



148 ENGLAND. London. — Newgate. 

all its own" ; and Hawthorne found it "un- 
speakably grand and noble It 

would not be nearly so grand without this drap- 
ery of black." 

Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of 
the Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery, Chor- 
isters' School, and HeraUVs College. Down the 
Row is Warivick Lane, once the haunt of Lord 
Warwick, the king-maker. The General Post- 
Office and Telegraph Office are immense build- 
ings near by. nearly hiding l^t. Vedasfs Ch., one 
of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy Christ's 
Hospital, founded by Edward VI., on the site 
of a Grey friars' convent, has 1,200 blue-robed 
pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh 
Hunt were educated here. Newgate, a famous 
prison where Jack Sheppard, Titus Gates, Wm. 
Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined, was in 
the Old Bailey, reached from Ludgate Hill. It 
has been demolished and the new Central Courts 
of Justice were erected on its site. N. of Christ's 
is *S'(. Bartholomew's Hospital, a great quad- 
rangle founded as a priory in 1102, and con- 
verted into a hospital by Henry VIII. In the 
Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, 
Reynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates 
from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast 
adjacent Smithfield Market (3^ acres under 
roof) occupies the ground once used for the 
revels, miracle-plays, and tournaments of Bar- 
tholomew Fair, and later for the martyrdoms 
under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. Here, also, 
W^at Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to 
death. Newgate-St. leads to the noble Holborn 
Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end of 
which is tit. Sepulchre's Ch. (John Rogers was 



ENGI.AND. Cheapside. 149 

its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John 
Smith. Near Smithfleld is the picturesque Char- 
te7-houst, a rich school and asylum on the site 
of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the 
pupils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, 
Wesley, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John 
Leech, Thirlwall, Thackeray, and Havelock. 
See the Elizabethan Great Chamber; cloisters, 
chapel, and pictures in the Master's Lodge; also, 
in adjacent BunhiTl Fields, tombs of Bunyan, 
Defoe, and Dr. Watts; and, in St. John's Lane, 
Clerkenwell, the rare old St. John's Gate, built 
in 1504. The Guildhall, originally built 1411-31, 
but almost entirely destroyed in the Great Fire 
of 1666, has the municipal offices, a Gothic Li- 
brary, a museum (Roman antiques, etc.), a 
beautiful crypt, and fine portraits. The Great 
Hall, 153x50 feet, has a noble timber roof, 
stained windows, and the wooden giants, Gog 
and Magog. Gresham College (1579) and Gold- 
smith's Hall are close by. 

Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome 
shops, from which run Bread-St., where Milton 
was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More 
was born and on which stood the Mermaid Inn, 
beloved by Shakespeare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont 
and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Boiv Ch., built by 
Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned 
by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. 
Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a 
"cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pillared 
court, is on the site of Thomas a Becket's 
birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' 
Halls (fine hall and rich armor) are farther on. 
The Mansion House (1739-1753), and famous for 
the Egjptian Hall, is the palace of the Lord 



150 ENGLAND. London. — London Bridge. 

Mayor. The costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads 
thence by Apothecaries' Hall and The Times 
Office, to Blackfriars Bridge (1/3 M.). Opposite 
the Mansion House is the low, massive, and broad- 
based Bank of England, which keeps $75,000,000 
to $100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid 
Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corin- 
thian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock 
Exchange, are near by. Statues of Wellington 
and Peabody, near Exchange; also Crosby Hall, 
built in 1466; and St. Helen's Oh., of the 12th 
century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was born. 
St. Michael's Ch. was built by Wren, and St. 
Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Loinbard-St. is 
the Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the head- 
quarters of colonial trade; Mark Lane, the grain 
market. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys; 
and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a minorite nunnery) 
is the Duke of Suffolk's head. .S'^. Sivithin's Ch. 
has the famous London stone, a Roman mil- 
liarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. 
Saviour's Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a 
beautiful Lady Chapel and Choir, and tombs 
of Massinger, Fletcher, Grower, and Shakes- 
peare's brother. Beyond is the ancient Guy's. 
Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper is buried. 
King -William- St. runs from the Bank, by St. 
Mary Woolnoth's Ch. and the site of Falstafif's 
Boar's Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 928 ft. 
long, built in 1825-31. at a cost of $10,000,000. 
on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,- 
000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans and 
the Saxons had bridges here. The Monument, 
202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to com- 
memorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- 
stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by 



ENGLAND. London.— The Towee. 151 

Fine view from its top (fee, 3d.). In Thames-St. 
was Chaucer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the 
Martyr, one of Wren's Chs., lias Miles Cover- 
dale's tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgate, the fa- 
mous fish-market. The Custom Mouse is 490 ft. 
long, on a quay beside the Thames. 

The Tower is "historically the most interest- 
ing spot In England" (open daily, 10-4, 6d. ; Mon. 
and Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the 
Outer Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' 
Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, 
in which rises the famous White Tower, built by 
William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman 
fort. It is 96x116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, 
with turreted walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard 
II. abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. 
of Scotland was immured. The beautiful Nor- 
man Chapel of St. John is here ; also the Council 
Chamber and Banqueting Hall. Among the 
prisoners of the Tower have been King John 
of France, King David Bruce of Scotland, the 
Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, William 
Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Strafford, 
and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- 
lection of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Ar- 
moury, full of trophies, ancient armor of all na- 
tions, and 22 equestrian figures in full English, 
Burgundian, and German armor, of aat^-. from 
1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and 
nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, 
Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Eliza- 
beth's Armoiwy contains weapons of the Eliza- 
bethan age, the block on which Lord Lovat was 
decapitated, and the axe which struck off the 
Earl of Essex's uead. Adjacent is the 10x8 cell 
in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined, 1603- 



152 ENGLAND. London.— The Tower. 

IG. The Bloody Toicer was that in which the 
sons of Edward IV. were murdered : Lord Dud- 
ley wa,s imprisoned in the Beaucliamp Tower; 
Princess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower; Lady Jane 
Grey, in the Brick Toiccr. The Duke of Clar- 
ence was put to death in the Boivyei- Tower; 
and Henry VL in Wakefield Tower. In the Jewel 
House are the Croicn Jewels, valued at $15,000,- 
000 ; St. Edward's crown ; Victoria's crown, with 
2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and 
ruby ( it cost $560,000 ) ; several other crowns ; 
the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; 
the Koh-i-Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery 
attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad 
Vincula are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir 
Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somer- 
set, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of Northumber- 
land and Monmouth, and other noble victims. 
On Tower Hill stands Trinity House, whose 
brethren care for the British lighthouses and 
buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Penh was 
born on Tower Hill ; and the poet Otway died 
there. St. Katlieriiie's and London Docks are E. 
of the Tower, with vast crowded warehouses, 
London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,- 
000. Farther down are other vast docks, the 
largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are 
Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park. In 
the Swedish Ch. at ShadweU, Swedenborg is 
buried. 

Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on granite 
piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard 
by, founded in 1276, and w^here Cardinal Wolsey 
divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. 
Shakespeare and Ben Jonson formerly lived at 
Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs 



ENGLAND. London.— The Temple. 153 

along the N. bank of the Thames, from Black- 
friars to Westminster Bridge, 1 1/3 M., occupied 
by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work 
was done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It 
is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues 
of Mill, Outram, and Brunei. Here also stands 
Cleopatra's Needle, the great Egyptian obelisk. 
See also the ancient Watergate of York House, 
built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham 
House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King 
Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. 

Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the 
Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, 
on the site of Fleet Prison, made famous by 
Dickens; the office of Punch; St. Bride's Ch., 
built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, 
with tomb of Richardson the novelist ; Bolt 
Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776-84) and 
died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese Inn, 
frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ; 
Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite 
monastery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St. ) , the 
home of rogues, described in Scott's Fortunes of 
Nigel; the site of Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 
1624-43 ; the Gothic Ch. of St. Dunstan in the 
West; Mitre Court, and its famous old inn ; and 
the Nevj Record Office (open 10-4), a stately 
Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. 
The Temple was founded by the Knights Tem- 
plar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their 
dissolution, in 1313. In 1346 it was leased to the 
law schools, which have ever since occupied it. 
The buildings extend from Fleet-St. to the fa- 
mous Temple Gardens, where the War of the 
Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has a 
splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), 



154 ENGLAND. London.— The Strand. 

with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. 
Dr. Johnson, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and 
Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple; 
and the latter is buried in the yard of the very 
beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 1-4 daily), 
built in 1185-1240, which has quaint old Tem- 
plars' monuments, rich stained windows, and 
polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly op- 
posite, across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb 
new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which 
have cost over $5,000,000. Farther N. is the fa- 
mous Lincoln's Inn, the home of lawyers, with 
a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo 
Jones, and a handsome Tudor dining-hall. Pitt, 
More, and Brougham long lived here. In Lin- 
coln's Inn Fields is the Royal College of Sur- 
geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Soane 
Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, 
antique gems, mediaeval and Renaissance curios- 
ities, and paintings by Hogarth, Turner, East- 
lake, Reynolds. Ch'ay's Inn, on the N. side of 
Holborn, has been a law school since 1371. 
Bacon was a member here. Beyond the monu- 
ment on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670; 
taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is continued as the 
Strand, connecting the city and the W. End. 
St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of 
Harold Harefoot and other Danish warriors. 
Dr. Johnson used to worship here; Joe Miller 
and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.-yard. 
Hard by is Clement's Inn, sacred to lawyers, 
and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, 
Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from 
the palaces of the great nobles formerly there- 
abouts, diverge to the Embankment. In the 
latter lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great 



ENGLAND. London. — Covent Garden. 155 

lived in Buckingham- St. Thomas k Becljet was 
priest of the Ch. of St. Mary le ,8trand, Voltaire 
lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast 
Government building, on the site of the Lord 
Protector's Palace, with a splendid front towards 
the Thames. Here may be seen (10-3 daily) 
the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyek, 
Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Water- 
loo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. 
Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, 
and is a famous centre of religious movements. 
Tne Chapel Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with an- 
cient tombs, is in Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, 
on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry 
III. to Peter of Savoy ; owned by John of Gaunt ; 
destroyed by Wat Tyler's mob ; and replaced by 
Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, 
Chaucer wrote several poems; ana there King 
John of France died. To the N. is Covent Gar- 
den, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable mar- 
ket of London (visit beforA 7 a. m., Tues., Thurs., 
or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to 
the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by 
them. Here lived Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop 
Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, 
etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the painter Tur- 
ner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones built St. 
PauVs Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler ("Hudi- 
bras"), Sir Peter Lely, "Peter Pindar," the 
dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood- 
carver Grinling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal 
Italian Opera-House is in Covent Garden ; and 
near it is the Floral Hall. At Charing Cross 
is a modern copy of a cross erected near 
its site by Edward L, in 1201. There is an an- 
cient equestrian statue of Charles I. at Charing 



15fi ENGLAND. London. — National Gallery. 

Cross. "The full tide of existence is at Charing 
Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane, Barrow, 
and Johnson lived hereabouts. 

The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- 
umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nel- 
son, and colossal lions designed by Landseer; 
also statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV., 
and Sir Charles Napier. On one side stood 
yortlimnherlmid House, the palace of the Per- 
cies, bought by the Board of Works for $2,500,- 
000, and demolished in 1874. On part of its site 
stands the Grand Hotel. The Ch. of St. Martin 
in the Fields has a fine Grecian front : and in 
its yard lie Roubillac the sculptor, Farquhar the 
dramatist, and Nell Gwynne. The magnificent 
National Gallery (open free, Mon., Tues., Wed., 
and Sat, 10 a. m., till dark; Thurs. and Fri., 
6d. ; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a 
classic fagade, 400 ft. long. It contains over 1,- 
000 pictures, and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 
persons yearly. Each picture has its title and 
artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues 
in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures 
of the world, familiar by countless engravings, 
are in this great collection. National Portrait 
Gal. adjoins the Nat. Gal., open same days. 

Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where 
Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he 
died ; where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth 
was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execu- 
tion ; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and 
the latter died ; where Charles II. held court. 
The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert 
de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican convent, 
and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great 
Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, de- 



ENGLAND. London. — Parliament. 157 

signed by Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and 
now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun. at 
11 and 3). In a house near by, Sir Robert Peel 
died. In this vicinity is Scotland Yard, famous 
in police annals ; once the property of the Scot- 
tish kings, and later the home of Wren, Milton, 
Inigo Jones. Also Montague House, the palace 
of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Yard 
is the United Service Museum, crowded with 
trophies of the wars of Britain on all seas and 
shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake. 
I ranklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse- 
Guards, headquarters of the army, is opposite 
Whitehall. . See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 
10-4 daily. The Treasury comes next S. The 
new Public Offices, built in 1868-73 by Sir G. G. 
Scott (cost $2,50,000), a splendid pile of Italian 
buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, 
and India Offices. 

The Houses of Parliament form an immense 
Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian lime- 
stone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, 
with 11 courts and 1,100 rooms, erected 1840-59. 
Strangers admitted between 10 and 3 on a mem- 
ber's order. ra(;'ade along Thames (940 ft. long) 
is adorned with statues and shields of all the 
sovereigns of England. The splendid Victoria 
Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square; the 
Middle Tower is 300 ft. high; and the Clock 
Tower, 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dial^ 23 
ft. across), and Big Ben. a bell weighing 13 
tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built 
by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the 
present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard 
11. . a splendid hall. 270 ft. long and 92 ft. high, 
formerly the seat of England's most august tri- 



158 ENGLAND. Lojndon. — Paeliament. 

bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, 
More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, 
the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Nor- 
folk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, 
and King Charles I. were condemned to death. 
Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the 
Seven Bishops, Here Edward III. received the cap- 
tive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. 
Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. 
Here the coronation-banquets have been held for 
800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt 
or Ch. of St. Mary Undercroft, built by King 
Stephen, and lately made resplendent as a chapel. 
St. Stephen's Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built 
by Henry VIII. Ascending from the hall, enter 
St. Stephen's Hall, with statues of 12 English 
statesmen and 12 ancient monarchs; and the 
Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The 
corridors have large frescoes of scenes from Eng- 
lish history. The House of Commons, 75x45 ft., 
is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- 
dows. The House of Lords, 97x45 ft. is a superb 
Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues 
of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid histori- 
cal frescos, the Lord Chancellor's woolsack and 
the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of 
Wales. See the Prince's Chamber, Upper Wait- 
ing-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room, superb Victoria 
Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room (richly fres- 
t?o:Ml), In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Rich- 
ard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben 
Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erected 
on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and 
Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained 
the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of 
Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward 



ENGLiAND. London. — Westminster. 159 

the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of 
Pitt, Fox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grat- 
tan. Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a 
cost of $1,250,000, commands a fine view of Par- 
liament House. St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. 
built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has 
a magnificent old E. window (The Crucifixion) 
and many quaint tombs, including those of poet- 
laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, Cromwell's 
mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Harrington 
(author of Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Sir 
Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). 
Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also 
Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazlitt, and 
frequented by Lamb and Haydon ; Jeremy Ben- 
tham's house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; 
and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate. 

Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site 
of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King 
Sebert in 616, for Benedictines; destroyed by 
Danes; and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward 
the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward 
I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen 
Mary restored them, and Elizabeth scattered 
them for ever. All the sovereigns of England 
since Harold have been crowned here. It is 416 
feet in length and 102 feet high, with W. towers 
225 feet high. It is a splendid Early-English 
building, immense, harmonious, solemn, richly 
colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; open, ex- 
cept Sunday, 9 a. m. till dark. Services at 8, 10 
and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ; Monday 
and Tuesday free) . It is world-renowned as Eng- 
land's Temple of Fame, crowded with monuments 
of kings, heroes and scholars. In the N. Tran- 
sept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, 



IHO ENGLAND. Ix>m>on. — Westminster. 

Vernon, , Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle- 
reagh. Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle. 
Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many 
famous lords. In the abbey are monuments to 
Wilberforce, Stamford Raffles. Fowell Buxton, 
Isaac Newton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, 
Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, 
Major Andre, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, General 
Paoli, Kneiler, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The 
Poets'' Corner contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, 
Gay, Handel, Thomson, vSouthey. Shakespeare, 
Campbell, Sheridan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, 
Macaulay, Thirlwall, Addison, Thackeray, Casau- 
bon, Barrow, Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spen- 
ser, Butler, Jonson, Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, 
Dryden, South. Browning, and Tennyson. See 
chai:>els of ^t. Benedict, St. Edmond, and f<t. 
Nicholas.. The Chapel of Henry TIL, built 1502- 
20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 
statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls on each 
side (with the swords and banners of the 
Knights of the Bath), and a magnificent stone 
roof of fanwork tracery. See tombs of Henry 
VII., James I., Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., 
William and Mary. George of Denmark, Edward 
VI., Queen Anne, George II.. the Duke of Mont- 
pensier. Dean Stanley, Queen Elizabeth, Edward 
v., etc. The Chapel of St. Edivard the Confessor 
has tombs of Henry V.. Katherine of Valois, 
Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa 
of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward 
I. ; also, the Scottish and English Coronation 
Chairs, and the sword and shield of Edward 
III. The Chapels of St. JoKn, St. Erasmus, and 
the Abbot Islip contain ancient tombs, near 
which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen. 



ENGLAND. London. — ^Lambeth Palace. 161 

Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and 
Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. 
Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, 
built 1250, and occupied by the House of Com- 
mons, 1282-1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and 
is near the Chapel of the Pyx, 8t. Blaise's Chapel, 
and the stairs to the Triforium. . Near by are the 
beautiful Cloisters. The world-renowned Jet'usa- 
lem Chamber was built 137(5-86. Here Henry 
IV. died; and here the recent revision of the 
Bible was carried out. Westminster School, 
founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered 
near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cow- 
ley, Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, 
Locke, Southey, Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings 
were educated here. 

The British Wesleyan Central Hall is an im- 
posing domed edifice in the neighborhood of 
Westminster Abbey, erected on the site of the 
former Imperial Theatre and the Westminster 
Aquarium. The dome rises 200 ft. above the 
street. 

St. Thomas's Hospital is a line of buildings 
1/3 M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parlia- 
ment House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, 
is Lambeth Palace, for 700 years the London 
house of the Archbishops of Canterbury, very 
beautiful arid interesting. Enter by Cardinal 
Moreton's lofty embattled gateway. The Hall 
has a fine timber-roof, and library of 30,000 
vols. (Mon., Wed., Thurs.. Fri., 10-4). The Guard 
Chamber has portraits of many archbishops. 
The Chapel, in which these prelates are conse- 
crated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lollards' 
Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tortured. 
In the inner court is the new Tudor palace of 



162 ENGLAND. London.— Pall Mall. 

the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are 
beautiful, ^ M. E. is Bethlehen Hospital for the 
Insane (Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. 
George's Cathedral (Roman Catholic) and Spiu-- 
geon's TaT^ernacle. 

Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly ^ M. long, 
running W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined 
with club houses, which are also found in St. 
James St. Among these are the University, 
United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, 
Carlton, Army and Navy, Guards, and Marl- 
borough. Pall Mall crosses Waterloo Place, in 
which are the Crimean, Franklin, Burgoyne, and 
Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York col- 
umn (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). In Pall 
Mall is Marlhorough House, built by Wren, for- 
mer residence of the Prince of Wales; near by 
St. James's-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. 
St. James's Palace is a brick building, designed 
by Holbein and built by Henry VIII., the home 
of England's kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria 
was married in its chapel, and levies were held 
in its state-chambers. Guard-mounting and fine 
military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House 
was the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Staf- 
ford House (Duke of Sutherland) contains hun- 
dreds of paintings. Bridgewater House (Lord 
Ellesmere) has art-collections, including several 
Raphaels. St. James's Park S. of the Palace, 
was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II., 
and has a lake in its centre, the Birdcage Walk 
and Wellinpton Barracks on the S., the Mall on 
the N., and on the W., near the Turkish cannon 
and Marshal Soult's mortar, the Foot Guards 
parade at 10 a. m. daily. At the W. end is 
Buckingham Palace bought in 1761 by George 



ENGLAND. London. — British Museum. 163 

III. of the Duke of Buckingham, now the town- 
residence of the King. It is a quadrangle, with 
Throne Room, Grand Saloon, and other halls, 
and a Picture Gallery, containing hundreds of 
old paintings. In the rear are large gardens. 
Opposite the palace at the head of the Mall is 
the Queen Victoria Memorial, unveiled in 1911. 
The extension of the Mall at the lower end into 
Trafalgar Square has opened up a beautiful 
vista from the Square, beneath the Admiralty 
Arches, through the Mall, to the Victoria Memo- 
rial and Buckingham Palace. 

Regent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- 
don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, 
and leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. 

Piccadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from Hay- 
market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological 
Museum (10-5, on member's introduction) ; St. 
James's Cli., built by Wren ; the houses of the 
Royal, Geological, Antiquarian, Astronomical, 
and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of 
Arts (many rare paintings) ; London Univer- 
sity, with statues ; Devonshire House, famous in 
art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green 
Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Al- 
bany dwelt Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and 
Macaulay. 

Oxford-St., H M. from Holborn to Hyde Park, 
passes Bloomsbury, Russell, Cavendish, Hanover 
and Bedford Sqs., with their displays of statuary, 
and crosses Regent-St. and New Bond-St, fa- 
mous for fine shops. The British Museum (open 
daily, free, from 10 a. m. till dusk) is near New 
Oxford-St., and contains one of the grandest col- 
lecfions in the world. Here are the Elgin 
Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon ; hun- 



164 ENGLAND. London.— Hyde Park. 

dreds of Greeks and Roman sculptures, and statu- 
ary; reliefs from Babylon, Nineveh, and Nim- 
roud ; 6 rooms full of Egyptian antiquities, MSS., ■ 
jewels, statues, etc. ; hundreds of Greek, Etrus- ' 
can, and Roman bronzes ; antiquities of the 
flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and mediaseval ages 
in England. The Reading Room (open only to 
students, apply in writing to librarian) is a 
circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, 
with a dome of glass and iron ; the Library con- 
tains 1,000,000 books. A little way N. E. is the 
Foundling Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds. 
Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 
on Sundays. 

Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- 
try in a densely populated region, is 1^ M. N. W. 
of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous 
Zoological Gardens, with numbers of birds and 
beasts, (open daily, 9 a. m. till dark. Is. ; Mon., 
6d. Best time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Bo- 
tanical Oardens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and 
Lord's Cricket Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Eensal- 
Green Cemetery, where are buried Thackeray, 
Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, 
Buckle, Eastlake, Mulready, Mathews the actor. 
Leech the cartoonist Gibson the sculptor, Car- 
dinal Wiseman, and others. 

Hyde Park (890 acres) was laid out by Henry 
VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch ; 
at the S. E., Hijde Park Cor tier, is another 
portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, which 
formerly bore a statue of Wellington. Rotten 
Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (1^ M.), 
and is a riding-course. The Drive, alongside, is 
filled with equipages. The Serpentine is an arti- 
ficial pond, with pleasure-boats. Remarkable 



ENGLAND. London. — Victoria Museum. 165 

lawns and trees are seen oh all sides. Kensing- 
ton Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on thf- W., and 
lead to Jlensington Palace, a grim brick struc- 
ture, built by William III., and the birth-place 
of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen 
Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. 
Farther W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace 
built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and 
Fairfax, Wm. Penn, Addison, William and Mary, 
Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gar- 
dens stands the Alhert Memorial, a superb Gothic 
monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, 
and composed of a Gothic canopy under which is 
a colossal statue of Prince Albert. Across the 
road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal 
Albert Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 
people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 
pipes. The Natural History Museum faces Crom- 
well-road ; contains geological, mineralogical, 
botanical and zoological collections — formerly 
in the British Museum (open 10-5, Sun. 2-5). 

The Victoria and Albert Museum, formerly 
called the South Kensington (free, Mon., Thurs., 
Sat, IOl-10 ; 6d., Tues., Wed., Fri., 10 a m. till 
dark ; Sun., 2-5 ; restaurant and lavatories in 
building) is one of the richest in the world (1/3 
hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded 
in 1857, and has received many generous be- 
quests, besides $5,000,000 from the Government. 
The first court is crowded with architectural 
rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is sur- 
rounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most 
famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous 
frescos, and contains many exquisite objects of 
art. The N. Court is devoted to Italian Renais- 
sance sculptures, altars, tabernacles, etc., and 



166 ENGLAND. London.— The Thames. 

costly tapestries, terra-cotta work, fans, laces, 
and ancient musical instruments. The Cloisters 
contain ancient and oriental furniture, Persian 
tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The National 
Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest- 
ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, 
many hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, 
Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc. ; water- 
colors in great variety ; and the Forster collec- 
tion of autographs and MSS. The Prince Con- 
sort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in 
gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and 
ivory. The Keramic Gallery has Palissy, Ma- 
jolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and 
other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office 
Museum adjoins this building. 

Between Hyde Park and the Thames are 
Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing 
many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, 
and the latter being noted mainly for its Hos- 
pital for old soldiers, built by Wren. 

Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steam- 
ers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. 
at Westminster, Charing Cross, Blackfriars, St. 
Paul's, etc. (fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is 
London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for 
Greenwich (3-4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You 
pass the Tower, St. Catherine's Docks, London 
Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commer- 
cial, and W. India Docks, Below Greenwich the 
river is dull. The journey 

Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's 
on the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, 
the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Water- 
loo Bridge, you have the Embankment on the r. 
Above this is the Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk, 



ENGLAND. Windsor. 167 

on the r. ; and passing the bridges to Charing- 
Cross Stat, and Whitehall Stairs, you come to 
Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. Thomas's 
Hospital and Lambeth Palace ; on the r., the 
Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. 
Get Dickens's Dictioriary of the Thames (Is.) 

Excursions in Southern England. 

Windsor (Bridge House; Castle; White 
Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by 
G. W. or S. W. Railway. The superb state apart- 
ments are open Tues., Wed., Thurs., Sat., on 
presentation of tickets (Tues. and Thurs., adults 
Is., children 6d., Wed. and Sat., free) ; when the 
King is at home, they are not shown, (Buy 
Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) 
The castle stands on the apex of a hill, and may 
be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror 
built a residence. Edward III. was born in 
Windsor; and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, once 
lived here. The state apartments are at the N. 
side. Grand entrance of the castle, George 
IV.'s Gateway, in the S. front, opposite the 
Long Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Vis- 
itors' entrance, Henry VIII. 's gateway. From 
the Round Toicer (open 11-4) 12 counties may 
be seen. See Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks 
and Rubenses ; Chapel Royal St. George's (open 
daily except Fri., 12-4, free), one of the finest 
Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with 
choir hung round with the banners, helmets, 
and insignia of the Knights of the Garter ; Al- 
bert Chapel, formerly Wolsey's Chapel, built by 
Henry VII. and reopened in 1875, superb mo- 
saics, reredos, and cenotaph. Fine view from 



168 ENGLAND. Hampton Court. 

the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to 
Virginia Water (Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 
1,800 acres in the Great Park. Eton ^jllege is 
I M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. 
long, is very handsome. Bronze statue of Henry 
VI. See the fine library and MSS. There are 
1,000 students here. The college was founded 
in 1440. Stoke Pogis, the scene of Gro'/s Elegy. 
and the burial-place of the poet, is near Windsor. 
Fine monument to Gray in Stoke Park. 

Hampton Court {Kings Arms; Mitre; G-rey- 
hoimd). rly. in f hr. (13 M.). or Thames (24 M.) 
has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was 
founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height 
of his ambition, and presented to Henry VIII., 
who coveted it. Here also was a favorite resi- 
dence of both Charles I. and Cromwell. It is 
now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State- 
apartments open daily, except Fri., 10-6, March 
— Oct. ; on Sun., 2-6. ) See the Presence Cham- 
ber. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the 
great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and 
covered with a timber roof. Purchase the 
Stranger's Guide (6d.), which gives full ac- 
counts. 

Kew Royal Botanical Gardens contain the 
plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy hand- 
book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is 

Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for 
cuisine, wines, and high bills), where Edward I. 
founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. 
Fine view from Richmond Hill. The Park (2,- 
255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open 
to the public. James Thomson and Edmund 
Kean are buried in the ch. Edward VII., when 
Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the White 



ENGLAND. Crystal Palace. 169 

Lodge., Park stocked with deer. The footpaths 
on either shore afford exquisite views. At 
Twickenham see Orleans House, the former resi- 
dence of Louis Philippe ; ch. in which Pope is 
buried; and Straiolierry Hill, Horace Walpole's 
villa. 

The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Syden- 
ham, was erected 185S-4, at a cost of $7,500,000. 
Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including 
admission (every day except Sat, when ad- 
mission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d., Is. 9d. You can 
go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensington, 
Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aquarium, 
the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, 
the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. Gar- 
dens very fine; fireworks on summer evenings. 
Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 
3d., Is.). The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, 
crossed by transepts. 

The Alexandra Palace and Park are 6 M. N. 
of London ; | hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, 
Is. It is rectangular, with corner towers, covers 
7^ acres; and the grounds cover 480 acres. See 
music hall (seating 12,000), with large organ. 

Rly. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 M.), in 
whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. 
Coleridge, Lord Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It 
is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres 
of breezy highland park, once famous for its 
highwaymen, and now visited for its beautiful 
views of London. In Hampstead Ch., Sir James 
Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie, and Constable, the 
painter, are buried. 

Dulwich, 20 min. by rly. from Victoria station 
(open daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for 
King Stanislaus of Poland, but given to God's 



170 ENGLAND. St. Albans. 

Gift College. Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rem- 
brandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and 
Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua 
Reynolds. 

Greenwich Hospital (6 M. from Charing- 
Cross), formerly for disabled seamen of the 
Royal Navy, is on site of palace where Henry 
VIII. was born, where he married Anne Boleyn, 
and where Edward VI. died ; now occupied by the 
Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall is open 
daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museum of 
Naval Architecture and the Chapel are open 
daily, except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark. 

Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some 
fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. 
On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory, 
built in 1G75. 

Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11^ M. (^ hr.) from 
London. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, 
whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location 
of the second leading public school in the king- 
dom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the 
names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmer- 
ston, and others are carved on the panels. See 
the Chapel and the t<chool Library. 

St. Albans, 21 M. out (^-1 hr.), has a noble 
Norman Abbey Ch., founded by Ofifa II., King 
of Mercia, in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a 
cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a 
massive tower (whence fine view) ; the shrine 
of St. Alban, the protomartyr of England (a. d. 
324) ; and quaint old chantries and stained win- 
dows. Two battles occurred here in the Wars 
of the Roses. In >S7. Michael's CJt. Bacon is 
buried. See Roman ivalls. Gatehouse, and Clock 
Tower. 



ENGLAND. Brighton. 171 

Putney (Star and Garter) is quickly reached 
by steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and 
Pitt died here. At Chisivick Fox and Canning 
died, and Hogarth is buried. Opposite Putney 
is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of 
the Bishops of Loudon. Lovely river-scenery in 
this region. To the S. is WimHedon, with fa- 
mous rifle-ranges. 

Margate (Cliftonville ; Queen's; White Hart), 
72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in 
summer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. 
John's, Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate (Chran- 
ville; Royal), 4^ M. S., is rather more aristo- 
cratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing good. 
Fine stone piers, commenced in 1750, forming the 
harbor; also an iron pier (adm. 2d.). 

Eastbourne {Burlington; Queen's; Anchor; 
Albion; Cavendish; Carlton, temperance), 65 M. 
from London is a favorite watering-place. Grand 
Parade faces the sea. 

Hastings (Queen's, Palace), 76 M. from Lon- 
don, with St. Leonard' s-on-Sea, the Belgravia of 
Hastings (Alexandra; Royal Vict07na), is the 
prettiest watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, 
and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of 
houses fronting the sea for 2 M. Castle may 
be visited. Good view of the old town from 
the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long). Pa- 
vilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- 
rooms, here. . Excursions should be made to 
Battle Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 
M. At Battle (George), battle of Hastings was 
fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are 
open Tuesday, 12-4, (6d.). 

Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse 
coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from London 



172 ENGLAND. Southampton. 

to Brighton; the railway talies 1^ hours. Prin- 
cipal hotels on sea-front: Grand, Bedford, 
Norfolk, Curzon, Old Hhip, Millwood Hall. 
Many boarding-houses. Restaurants: Caf6 
Royal, Mutton's, Swe^ings, and at many of the 
hotels. Brighton is London by the sea. The 
attraction is the fine sea-front 3 M. long. The 
Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the 
world. The West Pier and the Marine Palace 
Pier (adm. to each 2d.) are popular promenades, 
and east of the latter is a fine automobile road 
80 feet wide. The Royal Pavilion, begun in 1784 
by the Prince of Wales, is now owned by the 
town, and used for public balls, etc. Library and 
Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs, 55 
M. in length, with a breadth of 4^ M. 

Tunbridge Wells {Caluerly; EarVs Court; 
Grand; Spa), is a ix)pular inland watering-place, 
with chalybeate springs. Bayham Abbey ruins 
near by. 

A pleasant excursion may be made along the 
South Coast from Brighton to Portsmouth 
{George Hotel; Bedford; Sussex), -^fery im- 
portant naval station. See the Dockyards (open 
10-12, 1-3) ; order from Admiralty obligatory 
for foreigners. Ot£ the Dockyard lies the Vic- 
tory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. 
Southsea {Queen's; Esplande) is a fashionable 
watering-place near by. See the Common, the 
Pier, the Esplanade. From Portsmouth passen- 
gers may embark for the Isle of Wight. Ports- 
mouth is 72 miles from London. 

Southampton {Polygon; Soiith Western; Dol- 
phin; Royal), an important steamship station, 
78J M. from London. Boats for the Channel 
Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America, 



ENGLAND. Isle of Wight. 173 

and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John's 
Palace, one of the oldest houses in England. 
Excursion to lovely Netley Abl)ey, 3 M. (free on 
Wed., 3d. other days). You may next go to 
Salisbury {014 George; Crown; White Hart), 
which contains a noble Cathedral, among the 
very first in England. It was founded in 1220, 
and was the first great English church in the 
Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in 
England (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-Ho\ise, 
and l^ave very noteworthy. Sculptures in Chap- 
ter-House from Old Testament history. Statue 
of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See 
Blackmore Museum.. Excursions to Stonehenge, 
9 M. N., vast ruins of a Druidic sanctuary; 
Wilton House (3 M.), with fine paintings; and 
Longford Castle. 

Winchester {George Hotel; Royal; God-Begot; 
Oriel, temperance), is one of the great historical 
cities of England. The Cathedral (1079-1148), 
560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the principal attrac- 
tion. Architecture of Nave very curious. See 
Mural Monuments, Font and Chantry. In the 
Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married 
to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make 
excursion to Hospital of St. Cross, a house for 
paupers, founded by Bishop Henri de Blois in 
1136 ; admission 6d. 

The Isle of Wight may be reached from 
Southampton by steamers to Cowes (in f hr.), 
or to Ryde. Trains run between Ryde and Vent- 
nor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde 
and Cowes. The Isle is 22^ M. long and 14 M. 
broad. At Cowes {Gloster) is the club house of 
the Royal Yacht Squadron, located in the Castle. 
There are several regattas every summer, the 



174 ENGLAND. Bath.— Bristol. 

most important one in Au^ist. Ventnor and 
the Under Cliff are recommended to in- 
valids. In summer secure rooms in ad- 
vance. Ryde (Royal Pie?-; SoHris ; Marine), 
has fine pier, school of art, museum. It is 12 
M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On 
the route is Sandown (York; Sandown; Ocean), 
fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. 
Shanklin (Daish's; HoUier's; Royal Spa), is a 
picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a 
romantic ravine. BoncJiiirch, 11 M. from Ryde, 
is very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. 
Ventnor (Royal; Marine; Esplanade; Crab and 
Lohster; Rayner's, temperance), is much fre- 
quented. Near by are N orris Castle and Osborne 
House, presented by King Edward VII. to the 
nation for a convalescent home. Neivport is 1 
M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic 
ruin. 

Bath (Grand Pump Room; York; Empire; 
Pulteney),hafi most sumptuously appointed warm 
baths in Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inhab., 
on the Avon, and once famous as the home of 
Beau Nash, and the scene of Miss Austen's 
novels. See the stately AMcy Ch. (1499) ; Beck- 
ford.s Toicer and tomb ; the Guildhall ; and 
many fine residences and parks. Excursions to 
Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Doicn, and 
ruins of Hinton Abbey. From Bath it is 11^ M. 
to Bristol (Royal; Grand; George), the capital 
of the W. of England, and a very ancient 
city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine 
docks at the river's mouth. See St. Mary Red- 
cliff e Ch., very lovely; the Cathedral (1140), 
with tombs of Bishop Butler and Jane Porter, 
fine cloisters and chapter-house; College Gate; 



ENGLAND. Cardif. 175 

the Major's Chapel (1220) ; BriMol Museum; 
Clifton {Clifton Doivn Hotel) a beautiful sub- 
urb; the Suspension Chain Bridge (get the 
views) ; Niglitingale Valley; and Zoological Gar- 
dens. Excursions to Blaise Castle; and George 
Muller's Orphan Asylum (2050 children) at Ash- 
ley Station. 

From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Chan- 
nel to Cardiff {Park; Royal; Angel; General, 
Temperance), a very important Welsh port. See 
Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia Park.. Ex- 
cursions to Caei'phUly Castle; Llandaff (with 
grand old Cathedral) ; Llanicit; and St. Donat's. 
From Cardiff you can make an excusion through 
S. Wales, and it will richly repay. 

Swansea {Metropole; Royal; Grand, temper- 
ance) is the center of copper-smelting and a large 
tin-plate market. 

Fishguard Harbour {Fishguard Bay Hotel), is 
a port of call of the Cunard Steamers to and 
from New York where connection is made for 
London trains (262 miles). 

Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts 
of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from 
London in 4-5 hrs. Or they may go from Bristol 
to Exeter by Wells {Swan Hotel; Star; Mitre), 
which is a perfect ecclesiastical city, with a 
moated Bishop's Palace, an embattled Deanery, 
and a quaint Vicar's Close. The venerable Cathe- 
dral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way 
impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local 
guides.) Glastonbury {George; Croicn; Red 
Lion) has a ruined Ahhey, one of the earliest 
centres of Christianity in England. King Arthur 
was buried here. The George Inn was a hostelry 
for pilgrims in Edward IV.'s time. This is the 



176 ENGLAND. Plymouth. 

ancient Isle of Avalon. Get Willmmson's Guide, 
Is. See St. John's and St. Benedict's Chs. Exeter 
{Rougemont ; New London; Clarence; Half- 
Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107-1206, 
with interesting chai>els, Minstrels' Gallery choir, 
close, and far-viewing tower ; the Castle, Norman 
ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall ; Alhert 
Museum. Plymouth {Grand; Duke of Cornwall; 
Royal; Westminster, temperance), is rich in ob- 
jects of interest. See the Hoe, St. Andi'eiv's Ch.. 
the New Guildhall, Athericeum, Raglan Barracks, 
the Devonport Column. The Eddystone. Light- 
house is 14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by 
steamer. Torquay (Imperial; Grand; Victoria 
and Albert; Torquay Hydropathic) , is a famous 
watering-place. See the Bay, where the Prince 
of Orange landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., 
and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. 
Get guides of .Devon Coast and Cornwall. 
Penzance {Queen Hotel), 328 M. from London, 
is a quiet seashore town, with mild- but rainy 
climate. It was the birthplace of Sir Humphry 
Davy, whose statue is in the market place. 

Routes to the Continent. 

Quickest Routes. — Via Dover and Calais; 22 
M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 miles ; both 
day and night service. Fares: £2.16.8, £1.19.8. 
Via Folkestone and Boulogne, day tidal ser- 
vice; London to Paris, 255 M. Channel passage, 
28 M. in 2 hrs. Fares : £2.10.0, £1.14.8. There is a 
cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne. You 
will pass, by South Eastern, Chiselhurst, where 
Napoleon III. died, and where he and his son 
Louis are buried ; and by Chatham and Dover, you 



ENGLAND. Canter&ury. 177 

pass Rochester, which has an antique Norman 
Cathedral, with interesting '.chapels and the 
ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beau- 
tiful environs, including Dickens's old home, 
Gad's Rill. Just beyond is Chatham, with im- 
portant dockyards. 

Canterbury (County; Fleur-de-Lys ; Fountain; 
Slatterns, temperance). The ancient Mercery 
Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, built 1070- 
1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, 
monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beauti- 
ful and lofty central tower. See St. Augustine's 
College for missionaries, in the ruins of the an- 
cient abbey. Thomas a Becket was killed in the 
cathedral, and the Black "Prince is buried there. 
At Folkestone {Pavilion; Wampach's; Grand; 
M6tropole) the train stops near the steamers. 
Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Bur- 
lington Connaught, temperance) is worth half a 
day's stay. The Castle was nearly destroyed by 
fire in 1897. The Piers and Shakespeare's Cliff 
{v. King Lear) deserve attention. 

Routes Longer and Less Expensive, — Via 
Newhaveti and Dieppe (day and night boats, 
tidal service) . Channel passage, 64 M. (5^-7 hrs) . 
Fares : il.18.7, il.8.0. Via Southampton and 
Havre: Mon., Wed., and Fri. Boats leave 
Southampton at 11.45 p. m.. Channel and river 
passage to Havre, 8^-9 hrs. Fares : il. 13.10, 
il.4.10. — From London Bridge, across the 
Channel to Boulogne, — From Dover to Os- 
tend, for those going to Belgium. London to 
Ostend. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.). — From 
Londmi, via Harivich, to Rotterdam or Anttverp. 
Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ; 



178 ENGLAND. Channel Passage. 

reach Rotterdam 9 a, m.. Antwerp boat leaves at 
same time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. Frarn 
London to Flushing, via Qneensborough for day 
passage, via Folkestone for night passage. 



FRANCE. Boulogne-sur-Mer. 179 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 

THE Ports of Entry in France at which you 
may arrive from England are described 
below. 

Calais {Hotel Ter^ninus ; Central; ^auvacie) 
may be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560) ; 
the Fortes Royale, du Havre, and de la Mer; 
the old bastion called Le Courgain, are very 
curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 
1558, when France regained possession. Mary 
Tudor said the name Calais would be found 
written on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, 
with a picture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, 
on the Place d' Amies; the old Guet Tower; and 
the Hotel de Guise (Tudor style), built by Ed- 
ward III. and his successors, are the principal 
sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in 
Sterne's Sentimental Journey.. Good sea-bathing 
in summer. From Calais you may go, via Lille, 
to Brussels. 

Boulogne-sur-Mer (Hotel des Bains; Brighton 
et Marine; Meurice; Continental; de Paris; 
Christol et Bristol ; Louvre) is a picturesque town 
on the L'iane, where it enters the Channel. 
Fashionable surfimer resort. Has many English 
residents. The Quais; the Pier; the old fishers' 
town; the ancient Porte des Dunes, with a 
statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral of Notre 
Dame; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- 
poleon was confined in 1840; the Hotel de Ville; 
and the great Sea-Bathing EstaMishment, merit 



180 FRANCE. Havre.— Trouville. 

notice. Le Sage, author of GiJ Bias, and God- 
frey de Bouillon were born here. On a hill is 
the Colonne de la Grande Arm6e, built 1804-41. 
Here Napoleon I., assembled an immense army 
and fleet for invading England. 

Dieppe (Royal. Grand Metropole; Regina Pal- 
ace; des Families) is a summer resort of the 
fashionable world. See the Casino, on the beach ; 
the great Castle (1433) ; the ancient Ch. of St. 
Jacques, patron saint of fishermen ; the piers ; 
and the Statue of Duqucsne. The bathing is 
fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when the tide 
is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques, 4 M. S. 
E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. 

Havre (Hotel Frascati; de Bwdeanx; de Rus- 
sie; d'Angleterre), once known as Havre deGrace, 
from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, 
is one of the most important seaports in Europe. 
About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. 
The Docks are remarkable. The Jet(^c du Nord 
commands a fine view. From the hill of Sir. 
Adresse the outlook is charming. The principal 
things to see are: The Ch. of Notre Dame 
(1575) ; tne Hotel dc Ville; the Palais de Jus- 
tice : the Grand TMatre; the Customs Barracks; 
and the Museum (open in summer Sun., Mon., 
Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 5). Bronze statues > 
(by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and Casi- 
mir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin ' 
Puhlique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest ' 
street. Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the 1 
coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer , 
(Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing; de I 
Paris; d'Anglcterre; du Bras d'Or), with fine | 
Casino (admission 2 fr.) and beautiful beach. ( 
Great number of villas here and at Deauville. J 



FRANCE. Rouen. 181 

Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Trou- 
ville is a chapel in which William the Conqueror 
offered prayer before he set out to conquer Eng- 
land. One hour by rail from Trouville is Hon- 
fleur, Etretat, much frequented by painters, and 
Fecamp, a great bathing resort, with a fine 
Casino, may De visited from Havre. You may go 
from Havre to Rouen by the Seine, a lovely 
journey, but very slow. 

Rouen {Hotel (f Angleterre ; de France; d' Al- 
bion; de la Poste) can be visited on the way 
to Paris from Havre or Dieppe ; the commercial 
rival of Havre, a port of much importance ; his- 
torically and architecturally one of the most 
attractive places in France. This ancient capital 
of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine 
depots (120,000 innab.). The Cathedral of Notre 
Dame is a magnificent Gothic edifice, built 1207- 
80. The central portal on the W. was erected by 
Cardinal d'Amboise, the favorite of Louis XII.. 
about 1510. Profuse decorations in florid style. 
Tne Butter Tower (Tour de Beurre) was built 
with money got from the sale of indulgences to 
eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, un- 
finished, like its twin. The central spire was de- 
stroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an 
ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral 
staircase to the top. The fagade (16th century) 
contains many remarkable statues and bits of 
sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romain is 
a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir; 
the 25 chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, 
especially the rose icindows in the nave and tran- 
septs ; the chapel S. of the nave, which contains 
the tomb of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy 
(927) ; and the chapel opposite, in which Wil- 



182 FRANCE. Rouen. 

Ham of the Long S^yord (d. 943) is buried. In 
the Chapelle du Christ, near the High Altar, is 
a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of Rich- 
ard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king 
is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is 
buried here. The monument to Due de Br§z$, 
erected by his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress 
of Henri II. Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is 
in this chapel. The cathedral was begun in the 
reign of Jean sans Terre, and finished in 1477. 
Interior is 435 ft. long, height of nave 89^ ft. 
130 windows. 

The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the 
noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cru- 
ciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, be- 
tween two pyramidal towers, is extremely grace- 
ful. Central Tower, "the Crown of Normandy," 
285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 ft. 
wide. 3 exquisite rose windows ; 145 stained- 
glass windows. This ch. suffered much from 
the Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas- 
reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. 
The Ch. of St. Macloii (15th-16th centuries) 
has a very fine stone spire, and a fountain by 
Jean Goujon. Other chs. : St. Patricia (1535), 
magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, 
and paintings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. God- 
ard, fine mural paintings ; St. Gervais, with a 
crypt of the 4th century. St. Vincent and St. 
Roniain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal 
Palace (1461) and the Hdtcl de Ville, which is a 
remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should be 
visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the 
Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Na- 
poleon, I. Interesting statues of Corneille, 
Jeanne d'Arc, and G^rricault. Palace of Justice 



FRANCE. Rouen. 183 

{concierge shows it, If.) is a veritable Gothic 
clief-d'ceuwe. The room in which the assizes is 
held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there 
that the Parliament of Normandy held its 
sessions. On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great 
Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants' exchange. 
It is now the place where lawyers meet their 
clients to consult. The Museum now contains 
hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Geri- 
cault, Paul Veronese. Poussin, and other cele- 
brated artists. Visit the Rue de la G-rosse Hoi' 
loge, one of the most interesting streets in the 
city. The old clock-tower, with a gate beneath, 
dates from 1527. 

The most interesting section of Rouen is the 
Place de la PucelJe, where a fountain marks the 
place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been 
burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du 
Bourgtheroulde fronts on this square. Curious 
decorations on the tower, and bas-reliefs, one of 
which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In 
the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Tower (built 1205), 
subsequently named after the maid, and sup- 
posed to have been her prison. The Museum of 
Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History 
are in an old convent near the Place Beau- 
voisine. The town is rich in old houses with 
timber-fronts. 

The Sei'iie here is a large river, navigable for 
most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The 
Cours Bmeldlen has a statue of Boieldieu, the 
composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is 
crossed by a bridge, adorned with a Statue of 
Corneille; and by a cuspension bridge, at whose 
end is a Monument to the AhM de la Salle. 



184 FRANCE. Amiens. 

The surrounding country is extremely beauti- 
ful. Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the 
Pilgrimage CJi. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. De- 
lightful view over Normandy. The service in 
the ch, is peculiar. Many pretty excursions by 
steamer on the Seine. Visit the Chateau of Rob- 
ert le Dialtle, near La Bouille. On the way to 
Paris is Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" — 
where is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 
12th century, richly sculptured. Junction here 
for Caen and Cherbourg. Farther on is Poissy, 
the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the 
Seine, and a favorite resort of artists (great 
prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain, through 
which the line passes; Columhes; St. Germain, 
with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and 
Asnieres, a Parisian suburb, inhabited by com- 
mercial people. 

Amiens {Hotel de France; de la Paix; du 
Rhin) is a great manufacturing town (70,000 
inhab.), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic 
Cathedral, erected 1220-88, and one of the finest 
in Europe. The spire (422 ft. high) was re- 
stored in 1529. The W. fagade is one of the most 
beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers 
are decorated with many statues and medallions. 
In the Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue 
of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Dieu d' 
Amiens. Few cathedral interiors excite such 
lively admiration for prodigious vaults, light- 
ness of the columns, and astonishing variety of 
lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 col- 
umns support its airy vaulting. See organ gal- 
lery (1422) ; 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 
figures; superb rose-ioindow : stained-glass win- 
dows ; and the great number of monuments and 



FRANCE. Arras. 185 

chapels. The choir-wall is adorned with reliefs 
from the history of John the Baptist and the life 
of St. Firmin. Length of the cathedral, 469 ft. ; 
of transept, 213 ft. ; width of nave, 144 ft. ; tow- 
ers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue 
of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who 
preached the First Crusade. The Picardy 
Museum (Sun., Tues., Thurs., 12-5, free) con- 
tains interesting pictures, sculptures, and an- 
tiquities. The new Palace of Justice, and the 
Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, 
should be seen. About midway betw^een Amiens 
and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many 
odd 15th and 16th century houses; also the Ch. 
of St. Vulfran, and a statue to the composer 
Lesueur. 

Arras {Hotel cle VUnivers; du Commerce) has 
a double line of fortifications; a citadel con- 
structed by Vauban in 1670 ; and a cathedral, 
which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St. Vaast. 
Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to 
Rubens and Van Dyck ; and the treasury con- 
tains the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when 
he was assassinated. The great square of Arras 
is a fine illustration of the pictorial style which 
prevailed during the Spanish domination. 
Museum and PuUic Lihrari/. 

The coast line of N. France is dotted with 
pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, 
old and new. From Paris to Cherbourg, via 
Caen, is a journey through the interesting Nor- 
man towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th cen- 
tury, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral. 
1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married. 
1152) ; and Caen ( Hotel d' Angleterrc ; Moderne: 
de la Place Royalc), r>opulation 45,000. the town 



186 FRANCE. Cherbourg. 

of which Madame de S6vigne said that it was 
the source "(?e tons nos plus heaux- esprits." 
View from the heights very imposing. See aS'^ 
Etienne and Trinite Chs. ; the Chateau, founded 
by William the Conqueror ; the Hotel de Ville, 
decorated with medallions of celebrated Normans ; 
the Museum (Sun. and Thurs., 11-5, free; other 
days 50c.) contains a number of good paintings 
and portraits : the Academy; the Hotel de 
Valois; and the Place de la Repuhlique. You 
can reach Caen from Havre by steamer, and go 
thence to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if 
desired. Cherbourg (Hotel des Bains; de 
France; de V Amir ante et de VEurope), a city of 
44,000 inhab., on the i>eninsula of Cotentin, is 
the first military port in France, and a very im- 
portant fortress. It is a port of call for many 
of the Transatlantic steamers. There is little 
to see beside the docks and fortifications ; and, 
in the Museum, a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, 
painted by himself. Fine casino. Granville, far- 
ther down on the coast, is the port whence the 
steamers sail for the Channel Islands. Still 
farther down is Mt. St. Michel, an imposing 
granite rock, 2,700 ft. around and nearly 200 ft. 
high, connected with the coast by a dike. The 
sea surrounds it at high tide. The rock is sur- 
mounted by immense fortifications, an abhey, 
and a ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pil- 
grimages have been made here since Louis XL 
created St. Michael's Order, in 1469. St. Malo, 
near by, was the birthplace of Chateaubriand, 
and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. 
Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and 
a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of Eng- 
lish people winter here. Dinurd, 4 M. from St. 



FRANCE. Paris. 187 

Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The 
line to Brest is close by. Brest (Hotel Conti- 
nental; Moderne; des Voyageurs), population 
86,000. is a military port and fortress. Vast 
marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable bat- 
teries. On the way from Brest to Paris see 
Chartres (Hotel de France; clu Grand Monar- 
qiie), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, 
the towers of which can be seen for 25 M. Upon 
this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in 
building, there are many thousands of statues; 
there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and mar- 
vellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th 
centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this 
ch. in 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 
ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much 
adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th- 
century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native 
of Chartres. The Museum contains a noted pic- 
ture representing his funeral. 

Paris. 

Paris, with the exception of the old sections, 
is a very easy city in which to find one's way 
about. In summer street-merchants are always 
at your elbow with very good maps, with which 
you can explore the capital, even if you know 
no French. If you arrive at the Gare du Nord 
(N. Rly. Stat.), and are not encumbered with 
baggage, walk down the Rue de Lafayette to the 
Grand Opera and the Boulevard Haussmann; 
then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boule- 
vards, and you will find yourself in the centre 
of Paris. If you come in from Normandy, you 
will arrive at the Gare St. Lazare, but a short 




Map of 

PARIS 

Complete Pocket Guide 



EUROPE 



188 FRAMTE. Paris. 

walk from the boulevards. In the stat. your 
baggage is examined both for general customs 
and octroi duties. Spirits and cigars are the 
only things about which the officers are strict. 
A porter will take your trunk or valises, call a 
cab, install you in it, give you a little card with 
the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 
50 c. (10 cts.). If you have a party, and sev- 
eral large, trunks, charter a small private omni- 
bus (always plenty). One that will hold 6 per- 
sons costs 6 fr., and no extra charge is made for 
a reasonable amount of baggage. Driver expects 
fee. 

Cabs (Voitiires) — The cab system of Paris is 
simple and convenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 
P.M. a 1-horse open or closed carriage for 2 per- 
sons costs, according to legally established tariff, 
l^fr. for single drive; gratuity {pourhoire), 
rendered obligatory by custom, 25c. ; by hr., 2fr. 
From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff is for 2- 
seated cabs, 2ifr. per drive, 2^fr. per hr. ; 4- 
seated, 2^fr. per drive. 2|fr. per hr. The whole 
of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must 
always be paid; \ hrs. thereafter, 50c. each. 
Baggage (outside), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable 
rates per day and per month for carriages are 
rather high from May to Aug. ; with a little care 
a good open carriage for two (driver in livery) 
may be had for 25-30fr. per day ; gratuity to 
driver. 

The taximeter (either cab or motor, called 
auto-taxi) is now in almost universal use. The 
charges are: For 12(J0 metres, or 9 min., 75c.; 
every additional 400 metres, or 3 min.. 10c. ; for 
passing the fortifications, 50c. ; leaving cab out- 
side fortifications, Ifr. For night service (after 



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passing tlie tortmcations, ouc. ; leaving can out- 
side fortifications, Ifr. For night service (after 



FRANCE. Paris. 189 

midnight) there is an additional charge of 50c. 
Tip driver at rate of 50c. per hr., but never less 
than 25c. for any drive or distance. 

Street-Cars (called trannvays) run on most of 
the great thoroughfares, except the grand boule- 
vards. They are double-decked; the large ones 
are very fine. Go to the suburbs upon them rather 
than by rail or in private carriage. Omnibuses 
abound. Fares inside, 15c. ; above, outside, 10c. 
On some streets the tramway cars are moved by 
steam. On the Seine there are a great many 
small steamers, called mouches and hirondelles, 
"flies" and "swallows." The Metropolitan un- 
derground rly. is convenient ; fares 1st class, 
25c. ; 2d class, 15c. The Ceintnre is the name 
of the railway which runs around Paris, within 
the walls (23 M.). It is useful for reaching cer- 
tain points, but it is mostly walled in so that 
one sees little from the train. Round trip in 
two hours. 

Hotels.— Hotel Ritz, Hotel Bristol, Place Ven- 
dome, both expensive, aristocratic ; Elys^e Pal- 
ace; Continental; Castiglione, Rue de Casti- 
glione; Montana, Rue de I'EcIielle ; Hotel du 
Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel, Boulevard 
des CapUcines ; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare ; Ven- 
dome, Place Vendome; Regina. Meurice, Witid- 
sor, Brighton, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel St. 
James, de Lille et d' Albion, de Normandie, Rue 
St. Honore ; WestminMer, Mirabeau, Splendide, 
Rue de la Paix; de Londres, Dominici, Liver- 
pool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de VEmpire, de 
VAmiraute, d' Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve 
St. Augustin) ; Normandy, des Deux Mondes, 
and Binda, in the Avenue de I'Opera ; Du Palais, 
Cours La Reine ; d'AlJ)e, Avenue de I'Alma ; 



190 FRANCE. Paris. 

d'lena, Astoria, Place de I'Etoile; de St. Peters- 
hourg, Rue Caumartin; de VAthenee, Rue Scribe; 
de Bade, Boulevard des Italiens ; de la Terrasse 
Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de Baintre, 
Rue du Conservatoire; des Aml>assadeurs, Rue 
de Lille; de Londres, Rue Bonaparte; dii S^nat, 
Rue de Tournon, More modest hotels are Hotel 
d' Oxford et de Cambridge: de la Tamise, Rue 
d Alger; de la Courmine, Rue du Dauphin; Trois 
Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs ; d'Antin, 
Rue d'Antin ; Helder, Rue du Helder ; Byron, 
Rue LafRtte ; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul ; De 
France, Rue de Beaune; Des £'trangcrs, Rue Ra- 
cine. 

Boarding-Houses (or Pensions). — Of these 
there are many. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We 
give the addresses of a few, though changes 
occur so often that the traveller may occasionally 
be disappointed in finding that the house to 
which he directs his steps no longer exists. It 
will be wiser in any case to write ahead to en- 
gage rooms. Madame Barbier, 42 Quai des Or- 
fevres ; Madame Russell, 6 Square de I'Op^ra ; 
M. and Mme. Pincet, 35 Rue Camboh ; Mrs. De- 
fone, h2bis Boulevard Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, 
same address; Mme. Starck, 80 Rue Bassano; 
Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Friedland ; Amer- 
ican Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocad§ro ; the Misses 
McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 
29 Rue Caumartin. Furnished single rooms can 
be had in all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 
125 francs per month. Furnished suites of rooms 
(in French, apartcment signifies a suite) from 
250 francs per month upwards. Always inquire 



FRANCE. Paris. 191 

particularly about extras, even in the best pen- 
sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the 
bill is presented. 

Restaurants.— Cafe de Londres, Boulevard 
Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des 
Italiens ; Cafe Riche, 16 same street ; Maison 
Doree, 20 same street; Vidal, 41 Avenue de 
rOpera ; Noel Peters, Passage des Princes; Bra- 
bant, 31 Boulevard Poissonniere ; de la Terrace, 
30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle ; Bonvalefs, 
Boulevard du Temple ; Cafe de la Paix, near the 
Grand Opera ;Maire, 14 Boulevard St. Denis ; 
Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de I'Opera ; Moka, 44 
and 46 Avenue Wagram ; Gaillon, Place Gaillon ; 
Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevard Poissonniere; 
Restaurant des Amhassadeurs, in the Champs 
Elysees; Champeaux, 13 Place de la Bourse; 
Durand, 2 Place de la Madeleine; Magny, 3 Rue 
Muzet; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tournon; Restaurant 
de la Porte-Doree, Avenue Daumesnil, 275 ; 
CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all a 
la carte. Some of these places are rather ex- 
pensive ; the others more moderate. In the Palais 
Royal and the Passage des Panoramas, and on 
the Boulevard Montmartre, are several restaur- 
ants where breakfasts and dinners at fixed prices 
may be had. At the Diner de Paris, 12 Boule- 
vard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr. ; dinner, 5 
fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price din- 
ners. The Diner Europeen is good : breakfast, 
3 fr. ; dinner, 5 fr. In the Palais Royal there 
are numerous restaurants that give breakfast at 
1 fr. 75 c. ; dinner, 2 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. In 
the Bois : Pavilion d' Armenonville , la Cascade, 
Madrid. The Duval Restaurants, or Etablisse- 
ments de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is but a 



192 FRANCE. Paris. 

limitetl choice of dishes, but everything is well 
prepared and moderately cheap. Beware of the 
restaurants Avhere no prices are marked on the 
bill of fare ; a modest dinner taken there will 
be found very expensive when the bill is pre- 
sented. The Parisians breakfast 10.30-1, and 
dine (J-S. 

Cafes. — We cannot mention one-third of the 
principal caf6s, but will recommend the Cafe 
Anglais, Tortoni, Grand, Aniericain, Helder, 
Madrid, Riche, Varietes, Dc Paris, NapoUtain. 
Ladies with escorts may visit most of the cafes 
mentioned above, even in the evening. 

The Latin Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for 
centuries been devoted to universities, colleges, 
and schools of all kinds. Many thousands of 
students reside there all the time. The Stu- 
dents' Ball, called the Closerie des Lilas, or Bul- 
lier, is at the Carrefoiir de VOhservatoire. 

There are three principal race meetings in 
Paris, in April, May, and September. The spec- 
tacle in the Bois de Boulogne when the Grand 
Prix (the principal summer race) is run, should 
not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr. 

We would suggest that you start from the 
Place de la Concorde, walk up the Rue Royale 
lo the Ch. of the Madeleine (Magdalen), and 
then follow the line of the grands hoiilcvards to 
the Place de la Bastille. You may go on an 
omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an open carriage 
for 1 fr. 75c. ; but we say ivalk. 

Boulevard des Capucines (this is mid-Paris; 
here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand 
Caf§, the Jockey Club, and the Rue Scribe) ; 
Des Italiens (brilliant with theatres and restaur- 
ants) ; Montynartre (splendid caf 4s and shops) ; 



FRANCE. Paris. — Notre-Dame. 193 

Poissonni^re ; Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the 
old city gates, very fine) ; St. Martin; Du Tem- 
ple; Des Filles du Calvaire; Beaiimarchais, — 
and you are at the Bastille, i. e. the square 
where the celebrated prison stood. Whole length 
of this line of streets, 2f M. Return by the Rue 
St. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past the 
Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence 
you started. The exterior boulevards run from 
near the Arc de Triomphe, at the Terries, around 
to the quays of Bercy on the Seine, through La 
Villette and Belleville, the workmen's quarters. 
Tramways here. The Boulevards du Strasbourg, 
Sebastopol, Du Palais, and St. Michel form a 
continuous avenue from the Eastern Rly. stat. 
across the city to the Observatory. A walk 
from one end to the other is extremely interest- 
ing. A visit to one of the "cabarets artistiques," 
in Montmartre, is well worth while. See de- 
scription in "Paris-Parisien," an excellent guide 
to these and other noteworthy sights of Paris. 

The Isle de la Cite on which Paris began, 
should have an early visit. Notre Dame, the 
cathedral of the Archbishop of Paris, was built 
in 1168-82, on the site of a 4th-century ch. It is 
417 ft. long. 156 wide, and 110 high. Twin tow- 
ers, 264 ft. The faqade (13th centiu-y), with 
its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of statuary 
over the portals, is very imposing. The carvings 
over the central entrance represents the Last 
Judgment. Entrance by 1. portal. In the Revo- 
lution, in 1793, the ch. was converted into a 
"Temple of Reason." During the Commune it 
was a military depot. Most of the sculptures 
were broken at the time of the Revolution. 
Choir completed, 12th century ; W. portion, in 



1^ FRANCE. Paris. — Palais de Justice. 

13th. The interior, with its nave and double 
aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates are 
buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support 
the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the 
transept; 37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by Viollet-le- 
Duc, in the nave. The Treasury (fee, ^ fr.) 
may be inspected. The robe in which Arch- 
bishop Darboy was shot by the Communists is 
shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20c.), go 
round to N. side of 1. front tower, and ring the 
bell. In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. 
Note gargoyles and the curiously carved figures 
of men and animals on the roof. The effect of 
the flying buttresses below is very striking. See 
Victor Hugo's Notre Dmne de Paris, for an elo- 
quent description of the cathedral. The view 
from the towers is the best in Paris. In a 
bright summer-day it is bewildering, from its 
very vastness. Just behind Notre Dame is the 
Morgue, or Dead House, where you may view 
unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. 
From the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel 
Dieu, an immense hospital ; the Fontame Notre 
Dame, the Place du Parvis, and the Flower Mar- 
ket. The old Hotel Dieu (660) has been de- 
molished. 

While you are in the, Cite, go to see the Palais 
de Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the 
prison of the Conciergerie, where Marie An- 
toinette and so many other victims of the Revo- 
lution were imprisoned. The Palais de Justice 
is open daily, except Sundays ; and here most 
of the Courts of Justice may be visited (guide, 
1-2 fr.). The C our d'Honneur is very Qne. The 
great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 2,55 ft. long, is where 
mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo's 



FRANCE. Paris. — The Churches. 195 

l^^otre Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 
12-4, except Mon. and Fri.) is a nobly beautiful 
specimen of Gothic (1245-48). Note the mag- 
nificent stained glass filling the sides of the 
Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy Ghost is 
celebrated here once a year. Opposite the Palais 
de Justice is the Trihunal de Commerce, a beau- 
tiful Renaissance building, 1860-66 (open daily). 
Observe the old Clock Tower of the Palais de 
Justice, one of the few remnants of the original 
edifice. See the Place Dauphine, and the eques- 
trian Statue of Henri IV. near by. Good view 
of the Louvre from the Pont Neiif. 

Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 
90), on high ground, on the spot where Gene- 
vieve, the patron saint of Paris, was buried in 
512. The Constituent Assembly made a Pan- 
theon out of it; and the Catholics never perma- 
nently regained their place of worship. In- 
scription on pediment : Aux grands hommes la 
patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; 
ascend it for view. Interior decoration of dome, 
by Gros, fine. Portico of 22 Corinthian col- 
umns, 81 ft. high. Small fee for admission to 
crypts, where are the tombs of Voltaire, Rous- 
seau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other noted men. 
St. Etienne du Mont (1517) near the Pantheon, 
has some matchless stained glass of the 16th cen- 
tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. 
Germain I'Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. 
From its belfry the signal for the massacre of 
St. Bartholomew was sounded. Note the oval 
arches of the porch (1435) Fagade 15th and 
16th centuries. Rich modern frescos and inter- 
esting chapels inside. St. Germain des Pr^s is 
on Rue Bonaparte; built 1001-1163, as the ch. 



196 FRANCE. Paris.— The Churches. 

of a powerful abbey. Inside are admirable and 
extensive frescos by the celebrated Flandrin ; 
ancient monuments in choir and nave. St. 
Eustache is near the Halles Centrales (1532- 
1637) ; Gothic, with Grecian W. front. Interior 
beautifully decorated. Suffered much damage 
in Commune, when it was used as a "Club." 
Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue St. 
Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich : famous 
music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, 
and blew the French Revolution into space ; indc 
Carlyle. — ]\6tre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Chateau- 
dun, is the ch. that Thiers was buried from. 
The Trinite\ Place of same name; new (1867). 
very elegant and rich. 8t. Vincent de Paul, Rue 
de Lafayette. — The brilliant new Russian Ch., 
near the Pare de Monceaux. Interesting service 
here. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, won- 
derfully decorated with paintings by Mignard. 
St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly 
decorated ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and stat- 
ues of Sts. Peter and Paul. La Soi'honne, ad- 
joining the great university, contains the Tomh 
of Cardinal Richelieu. 

The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in 
Paris, is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. 
long, 130 wide, and 100 high, surrounded by Cor- 
inthian columns. In the colonade are niches con- 
taining figures of saints. Couture contributed 
to the designs. The pediment, 120x25, repre- 
sents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors are 
subjects from the Old Testament. On Crrand Al- 
tar, the Assumption, in white marble ; and paint- 
ing of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Flower- 
market on each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. 
Very fine music. Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard 



FRANCE. Parts.— The Palaces. 197 

Malsherbes, contains many fine paintings. — The 
Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue d'Anjou, is to tiae mem- 
ory of Louis XVI. and bis Queen, and other 
victims of the Revolution. The new Ste. Clo- 
tilde, Place Bellechasse, and ^t. Pierre de Mant- 
martre, are worth seeing. Notre Dame de 
Bmvnes NouveUes, on the summit of Montmartre, 
is a new church and one of the largest in Paris. 
The Palaces.--The best place from which to 
see the imposing front of the Louvre is the park 
before St. Germain. The Colonnade was con- 
structed in 1685, on the E. facade. The central 
portion of this front is known as the Pavilion 
Henri Quatre. See statues of Napoleon I.'s gen- 
erals on the Rohan Pavilion. The interior 
courtyard is an architectural marvel. See the 
86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in 
the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the 
Museums, which are among the richest and most 
remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the 
1.. coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the 
Sully Pavilion, and through the Pavilion Denon, 
in the middle of the N. fagade of the building 
erected by Nai)oleon III. Collections open, free, 
daily, except Mon., and a few holidays, in. sum- 
mer, 9-5 ; in winter, 10-4. A few of the sculp- 
ture rooms and collections of antiquities are not 
opened until 1 p.m. Guides 2 fr. an hr., but the 
catalogues will enable most visitors to find their 
way about. The Venus of Milo, the Fettered 
Slares of Michael Angelo. and a noble group of 
the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are 
the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 
21 large pictures by Rubens. The Salon Carr6 
contains the most striking works of art. There 
are 2,000 paintings in the I^ouvre. See the 



198 FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces. 

Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by 
Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese Museums 
should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuil- 
eries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for 
Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site be- 
ing a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed 
during the Communal insurrection of 1871. The 
whole front was so utterly ruined that restora- 
tion was considered out of the question. The 
Pavilion de Flore and the Gallery on the Seine 
bank unite the Louvre with the Tuileries. Fine 
sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. The 
courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes 
its name from a carousal, or ball, held there by 
Louis MV. in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which 
stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Sev- 
erus at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to 
commemorate his victories of 1805-6, It was 
originally crowned with the horses taken from 
the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice, but these 
were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- 
cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, 
lived there; and Louis XVIII., Charles X., Louis 
Phillippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. 
Read Carlyle's account of the attack on the 
Tuileries by a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In 
front is the Tuileries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, 
which extends to the Place de la Concorde, and 
in summer is a delightful resort thronged with 
people. Military music twice a week in sum- 
mer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on the N. 
side, is a pleasant promenade. 

The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20, 
and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal 
habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the 
palace of the Directory and the Consulate, and 



FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces. 199 

is now the meeting-place of the Senate of the 
Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (ex- 
cept Mon., and certain holidays), 10-4. The 
Little Luxembourg, supposed to have been built 
by Marie de Medicis, is near by. The Luxembourg 
contains the productions of many of the most 
distinguished French artists, which have been 
purchased by the State. After remaining here ten 
or twelve years, if they are meritorious enough, 
they are sent to the Louvre or sometimes to some 
important collection in another city. Galleries 
open daily (Mon. and certain holidays excepted), 
9-5 in summer ; Sun. and Fri., 10-4. In the gar- 
den, where military music is played on Sun., 
Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine 
fountain, and statues of celebrated French- 
women. 

The Palais Royal is always interesting to 
strangers. It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal 
Richelieu. The famous galleries, which now 
form such a charming promenade, and are filled 
with attractive shops, were built by Philippe- 
Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie Frangaise 
is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed by 
fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt. 

The Palais de TElysee, having fagades on the 
Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elyses, 
is at present the residence of the President of 
the Republic. It was built in 1718. and restored 
under Napoleon I. Fine old garden on the 
Champs-Elysees side. The Palais Bourbon, in 
which the Corps L^gislatif held its sessions un- 
der Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of 
Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting on the 
Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of 
steps decorated with colossal statues. The Ho- 



200 FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces. 

tel de la Presklence is near by. The Palais d'Or- 
say was partly destroyed iu May, 1871. 

The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Grand Palais 
and the Petit Palais, occupy the trianglq between 
the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where for- 
merly was the Palais de VIndustrie. This was j 
used for the first international exhibition in 
Paris in 1855, and since then until its demolition 
the annual Salon was held there. The salon is 
now held in the Grand Palais. Here also is the 
approach to the handsome Pont Alexander III., 
the memorial stone of which was laid by the Tsar 
Nicholas II., in 1896. In the Avenue Montaigne 
is the Palais Pompeien, built for Prince Na- 
poleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. 
Admission 1-2 fr. 

The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the 
old Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It 
is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch 
adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. 
During the Revolution it was a prison. The 
academy holds its sessions here. The annual 
meeting of the five departments combined is 
held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. 
The Mazarin Lihrary (250,000 vols.) is open to 
the public 10-4 (except Sun.). 

The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rue Bona- 
parte, is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, 
founded in 1G48 (open Sun., 12-4.) On the rail- 
ing which separates the court from the Rue 
Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Pous- 
sin. Near the Invalides, in Rue de Grenelle, 
is the Archbishop's Palace. 

The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny 

(founded about 1500), Rue du Sommerard. con- 
tains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone. 



FRANCE. Parts. — Parks & Gardens. 201 

ivory enamels, terra-cotta, prints, stained glass, 
pottery, etc, (catalogue at the door). The old 
Palais des Thermes, which fronts on the Boule- 
vard St. Michel, was built by Constantius 
Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has 
left on record his predilection for spending part 
of his time in his "dear Lutetia" (open daily, 
11-4.30). The Musee Municipal, at the Hotel 
Carnavaiet, Rue Sevigne, can be visited with an 
order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of 
works relative to the histoiy of the city of 
Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery 
Museum is at the Hotel des Invalides (open 
Tues., Thurs., and Sun., 1-4). The Mint Museum, 
on the Quai Conti, may be visited Tues. and 
Thurs. (1-3), by order. 

Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne 
is the chief park of the French capital, and com- 
prises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 
70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifi- 
cations, and extending along the banks of the 
Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs 
Elysees by several magnificent avenues ; and the 
principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, 
is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive 
Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion 
of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, 
and of strangers from all parts of the world in 
summer from 5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the 
Field of Longcliamps, on which races and re- 
views are held; the Jardin d' Acclimation (zoo- 
logical gardens) ; Model Dairy, Prg Catalan; the 
AUee des Acacias, through the centre of this 
park ; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil ; 
and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes, and St. 
Cloud, are the principal objects of interest. 



202 FRANCE. Paris.— Pl. de la Concorde. 

E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincenlies, a vast 
woody tract, which furnishes a delightful 
breathing-place for the Parisians. The Chateau 
(open Sun. and Thurs., 12-4, by order from Com- 
mandant at the Hotel des Invalides), was built 
in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing bar- 
racks and arsenal and a military school. There 
is a monument to the Due d'Enghien; and from 
the Donjon, a square tower 190 feet high, a fine 
view may be enjoyed. The Chapel was founded 
in 1379. 

The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park 
of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the 
centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the 
Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near 
here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de 
Monceaux may be entered from the Rue de 
Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is sur- 
rounded by magnificent residences of wealthy 
Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were 
executed here at the close of the insurrection. 

TheChamps-Elysees is a world-famous prome- 
nade. The illumination on the 14th of July 
(national fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of 
the Cafe-Concerts of importance have summer 
theatres here. 

The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by 
omnibus, railway, underground, tramway, or 
river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark. The 
fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 11-5 ; 
the Galleries, containing the collections, Sun. 
and Thurs., 11-4, library daily, except Sun., 
10-3. Botanic Garden here, one of the pleas- 
antest promenades in the city. 

The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest 
squares in the world, is a good starting-point 



FRANCE. Pakis.— Place Vendome. 203 

for any excursion about Paris. In the centre 
is the Ohelisk of Luxon, given to Louis Philippe 
by the Khedive of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and 
weighs 240 tons. On either side is a handsome 
fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 
stone figures, representing the chief tov^ns of 
France. On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor 
may generally observe a mourning wreath. The 
Germans bivouacked here in 1871. In 1792^99, 
3,000 people perished here on the guillotine. 
Louis XVI. was executed near central gate of 
the Tuileries garden. The Place de la Bastille 
has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, 
with figure of Liberty. See Place du Chateau 
d'Eau, Place du CJiatelet, Place Loiwois, and 
Place Dauphme.. On the Place du Pont 8t. 
Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze 
statue of Michael overcoming the Dragon. On 
the Place St. Georges stands the house in which 
Thiers lived during the latter years of his life, 
in the centre of the Place de V Etoile, at the top 
of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc 
de Triomphe de I'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Na- 
poleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, 
at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. 
high, 146 ft. wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast 
arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the side 
are groups representing the Napoleonic cam- 
paigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on 
the vault. Spiral staircase of 261 steps to plat- 
form at top, whence a grand view. From the 
Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the 
Ave. de la Grande Armee. 

In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. 
high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I., in 
costume of a Csesar. The column, pulled down 



204 FRANCE. Paris.— La Roxtrse. 

by communists in 1871, was made' of cannon 
taken from the Austrians. Notice curious heads 
over the houses round the Square. The Place 
Louvois, near the National Library ; the Place 
de la Bourse, where stands the Bourse, or Ex- 
change (from a gallery in which visitors can 
notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; 
the Square MontJiolon, on the Rue Lafayette; 
the Esplanade, in front of the Invalides ; the 
Champs de Mars, where several great exhibitions 
have been held, and where the celebrated Eiffel 
Tower (984 ft. in height) is located; the Troca- 
dh'O Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace 
used for historical collections and for concerts; 
the Place Clichy, at the head of the street of the 
same name; and the Place de la Nation, should 
not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de 
ChrH-'e, where the stake and the scaffold were 
erected so often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is 
now called the Place de V Hotel de Ville; and di- 
rectly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, 
a magnificent structure, erected on the ruins 
of the one burned to the ground by the Com- 
munists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 
1533-1628, a library of 100,000 vols, was con- 
sumed. The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented 
with hundreds of statues. The Place de la 
Roquette is a gloomy square in front of the 
prison to which criminals are transferred when 
they are sentenced to death. Many notorious 
executions occurred on this Place. In the Place 
des Victoires see the clumsy statue of Louis 
XIV. ; also the statue of Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue 
de Rivoli, in the Place des Pyramides ; and that 
of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. 



FRANCE. Paris.— La Porte St. Martin. 205 

The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, 
on the Boiilevard St. Denis, ai^e triumphal 
arches, • erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to 
commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in 
Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied 
armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed 
through the Porte St. Martin, just as the Ger- 
man armies entered under the Arc de Triomphe 
in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were san- 
guinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830. 
1848, and 1871. One of the most formidable 
barricades, and one most fiercely defended by 
the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. 
Martin. On the Square St. Jacques, which occu- 
pies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. 
Jacques la . Boucherie, is a beautiful tower 
(1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of 
the old church ; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in 
a crown of the arch. Great number of other 
statues on the monument. The Square Monge 
contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Squo/re 
du Temple the group of lime-trees under which 
Louis XVI. used to sit when he was a prisoner. 
The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening 
on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent indus- 
trial school. Collections most extensive of their 
kind in Europe (open 10-4 ;" Sun., Tues., Thurs., 
free; Mon.,, Fri., Sat., 1 fr.) ; articles are all 
labelled. See Refectory of the old abbey. The 
handsome Gothic Hall is now a library, 20,000 
vols, (open to students, 10^3, 7.80-10 daily). 
The Fontaine de VOhseruatoire is ornamented 
with columns bearing vases, and statues of 
Morning, Noon. Evening, Night. -See Fontaine 
Cuvier, in the Jardin des Plantes ; Fontaine Gail- 
Ion, in the Place of the same name; Fontaine de 



206 FRANCE. Paris.— Cemeteries. 

Grenelle, one of the finest in the city ; the Fon- 
taine des Innocents, in Square of same i>ame; 
Fontame Louis le Grand; Fontaine Molitre, en- 
trance to Rue Moli§re ; Fontaine Richelieu, in the 
Rue de Richelieu ; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fon- 
taine St. Sulpice; and the Fontaine de la Vic- 
toire. 

The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not 
escape the stranger's attention. The most no- 
ticeable are the Passages Jouffroy, des Pano- 
ra/mas, de VOpera, des Princes, on the grand 
boulevards; the CJwiseul, Rue des Petis Champs ; 
Passage Verdean, a continuation of the Jouf- 
roy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmarte ; 
Passage Vivienne, from Rue Vivienne; Pas- 
sage die Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to 
the Rue St, Lazare. Beware of beggars and peo- 
ple who offer their services in these arcades. 
The best shopping streets are the Rue de la 
Paix, Rue de la Chausg§e d'Antin, Avenue de 
rOpera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard Hausmann, Rue 
des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue Auber, Boule- 
vard St. Germain, and all the grand boulevards. 
The shops in the Avenue de I'Opi^ra are usually 
reasonable in their prices, but those of the Rue 
de Rivoli are not. 

Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. 
The most noticeable is Pere-la-Chaise. Here the 
Communists made their last stand, and from 
the hill-top bombarded the neighborhood of the 
Place de la Concorde. See graves and tombs 
here of Heloise and Ab§lard ; Alfred de Musset ; 
the composers Bellini, Gr§try, Boieldieu, Cheru- 
bini, Rossini and Chopin ; of Bernardin de St. 
Pierre, Talma the tragedian, Dupuytren, Beau- 
marchais, Manuel and B^ranger in the same 



FRANCE. Paris. — ^Hotel des Invalides. 207 

tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Moli§re, La- 
fontaine, Balzac, Eugene Delacroix, Thiers, Mar- 
shal Ney; Clement Thomas and Le Comte, the 
first victims of the Commune ; and in the Jewish 
Cemetery (closed on Saturday) the tombs of 
Rachel and the Rothschilds. See Prison of La 
Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other 
hostages were executed by the Communists. The 
Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- 
rinch Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile 
Gautier, Gozlan, MUrger, Horace Vernet and 
Troyon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the 
Montpamasse Cemetery. Visit the Picpus Ceme- 
tery, Rue Picpus, where are tombs of Lafayette 
and many members of old French nobility, vic- 
tims of the Revolution. See at end of burial- 
ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where 
1,300 persons, executed at the Barri§re du 
Tr6ne, are buried. 

Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ram- 
parts (cost, $28,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 
21 M. long. They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 
19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since 
the war of 1870-71 the system of fortifications 
has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to 
Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, 
none of them farther than 2 M. from the city. 
Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- 
turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. 
bank of the Marne and S'dne are best worth 
visiting. 

The Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in 
the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached 
from the Place de la Concorde, and from the 
Champs-Elys§es by the Alexander III. Bridge. 
It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the 



208 FRANCE. Paris.— Operas & Theatres. 

veterans of the army. There are at present 
about 500 inmates, although the building was 
intended to accommoodate 5,000. The dome of 
the Ck. of the Invalides, which can be seen from 
a long distance, was gilded in the time of Na- 
poleon I. The fagade of the great edifice is 660 
ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in 
bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal en- 
trance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. 
On the Esplande is the "Triumphal Battery," 
used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most 
of the guns are trophies. See the Cour rVHon- 
neur, painted with scenes from various French 
warlike epochs, the RefectmHes, LiJyrwry, the 
Salle du Conseil, the Artillery Museum-, and the 
Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., di- 
rectly beneath the dome (entrance daily, 12-4. 
free). Above the entrance to the crypt are in- 
scribed the words from the Emperor's last will : 
"I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks 
of the Seine, among that French people I have 
so well loved." Note the bas-reliefs by Simart ; 
colossal victories by Pradier ; the sarcophagus, 
which weighs 67 tons ; the decoration of the 
tomb ; and the monument of Vauban and Tu- 
renne. In a chapel on the 1. is the tomb of Jer- 
ome Bonaparte ; on the r., the sarcophagus of 
Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The 
H6tel des Invalides is shown daily from 12-3. 
except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the 
Ecole Militaire, founded in 1751 by I^uis XV. 
A noble building ; admission by special order. A 
great number of executions of Communists here. 
Operas and Theatres. — The majority of the 
Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tour- 
ists will wish to visit the Grand Opera, or Na- 



FRANCE. Paeis. — Theatre Fkancais. 209 

tional Academy of Music, and the TMdtre Fran- 
Qais, which are open the year around. The new 
Opera House was built 1861-74 ; it covers nearly 
5 acres, and seats 2,156 people. The fagade is 
exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice 
the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. 
The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic 
poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric 
drama. Note the medallions and busts of com- 
posers. The grand staircase of white marble, 
with balustrades of red antique marble and 
hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Eu- 
roi}e (see local guides for description). To gen- 
tlemen we recommend the Sialics de Parterre, 
7 fr. ; to families, if economy be an object, the 
Traisi&mes, 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the 
orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat. The 
AmpMtlieatre is the choice part of the house. 
At the other end of the Avenue de rOp§ra is 
the Theatre Francais, the rank of which is well 
known. Founded^ in 1600, it was under Mo- 
liere's superintendence until his death. The 
building was burned in 1910 and many objects of 
historical interest which it contained were dam- 
aged or destroyed. It was immediately re- 
built, however (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). 
Paris is the home of genteel comedy ; and the 
theatres where it can be best seen are the Ren- 
aissance, Rejane, Vaudeville, and Gynmase. For 
light opera go to the Op6ra Comique (good seats, 
8-12 fr.). The Od^on ranks next to the Fra7i- 
Qais, and there, as at the leading theatre, classical 
drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to 
the Trianon, the Bouffes Parisiens, or the Folies 
Dramatiqiies. The Varietes has a specialty of 
broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais 



210 FRANCE. Paris.— Museums. 

Royal and Ath^n^e are the recognized temples 
of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries 
played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chdte- 
let is mainly devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces, 
and ballets. The Theatre Sara Bernhardt, for- 
merly des Nations, is where Bernhardt plays 
when in Paris. For other theatres, see daily 
papers or the English papers. There are sev- 
eral circus buildings and an immense Hippo- 
drome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in winter, 
generally at the Theatre du Chdtelet, Th6dtre 
Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Elysees Circus. 
The best music halls are the Olym.pia, Casino de 
Paris, la Scala and Folies-Bergdre; in summer, 
the Marigny, Jardin de Paris, des Ambassadeurs, 
and Alcazar d'Et6, all in the Champs Elys§es. 

Museums.— The Louvre; paintings, statuary, 
antiquities ; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, daily, 
Mondays excepted. The Luxembourg; paint- 
ings, statuary, chiefly works of living French 
artists; 10-4, except Mon. Cluny, Rue de Som- 
merard; antiquities and curiosities; 10-4 except 
Monday. Moli^re; collection of busts and por- 
traits of great value as regards the literary his- 
tory of France, in various parts of the Theatre 
Frangais ; authorization to visit the non- 
public parts of building from the archivist. 
Carnavalet, Rue de S^vigne; objects relat- 
ing to history of the French Revolution; 
10-4, 1 fr., Sun. and Thurs., free. Archives Ra- 
tionales, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois ; objects and 
documents relative to French history ; 10-5 ex- 
cept Monday, by special ticket. Cabinet des 
Estampes ct des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 
daily. Mus^e des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte ; 
casts, copies, engravings ; 10-4 daily. Instru- 



FRANCE. Paeis. — National Librae Y. 211 

mental, Rue de Faubourg Poissonni^re ; musical 
instruments of all epochs ; 12-4 Mon. and Thurs. 
De VOpera; autograph MSS. of composers, in- 
struments, costumes; open 1-4, except Sun. and 
Mon. De la Monnaie, Quai Conti ; medals, coins, 
postage stamps ; 1-3 Tues. and Thurs. on au- 
thorization obtained from the director of the 
mint. Des Gohelins, ancient and modern tapes- 
tries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. Trocadero; on the 
ground floor, casts of architectural and other 
sculpture; 11-4 except Monday ;, first floor, ethno- 
graphical museum ; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. 
Guimet, Avenue d'I6na ; collection relative to the 
history of eastern religions ; 12-4 daily, ex. Mon. 
Du Garde-MeuMe, Quai d'Orsay ; furniture, 
tapestries, bronzes, etc. from Louis XIV. to pres- 
ent time ; interesting ; 10-4 except Monday. Des 
Arts et Metiers, Rue St.-Martin; collection rela- 
tive to applied science and industries ; one of the 
halls has remarkable acoustic properties ; 1-4 ex. 
Mon. Dupuytren and Orfila, Rue de TEcole de 
Medicine ; anatomy and pathology ; 10-4 except 
Sunday ; tickets obtained at the office of the sec- 
retary of the Faculty de Medecine. D'Artillerie, 
at the Hotel des Invalides ; arms and armour ; 
12-4 Tues., Thurs., and Sun. Caen, 1 Rue de 
Seine ; paintings offered in competition for the 
Prix de Rome ; admission on request. Cermiscl, 
7 Avenue Velasquez ; Chinese and Japanese art ; 
open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4, Tues., 12.30-4; Sun. 
and Thurs., free ; other days 1 fr. 

National Library (3,500,000 vols.), in the Rue 
de Richelieu ; the beautiful St. Genevieve Library 
(320,000 vols, and 3,500 MSS.), Place du Pan- 
theon. 



212 FRANCE. Paeis. — Haules Centrales. 

The Halles Centrales, vast pavilions covering 
many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre 
or Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited be- 
tween 6 and 8 a.m., when the marketing is most 
active. The Bourse de Commerce, in the Rue du 
Louvre, replaces the old wheat exchange called 
the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux Vins, or 
the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin 
des Plantes ; 20 million gallons can be stored 
there. The Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 
67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there. 

The Hospitals of the Hdtel Dieu, Beaujon, 
Faubourg St. Honore; La Charity, Rue Jacob; 
La Pitie, Rue Lacepede; Larihois^i^re, near the 
N. Rly. Stat. ; St. Louis, Rue Bichat ; Du Midi. 
Rue des Capucines ; De Lour cine, street of same 
name; Des Cliniques, Place de I'Ecole de M§de- 
cine; Des Incurables, at Ivry, — may generally be 
visited without difficulty; For descriptions of 
the great Asylum^s, of the Mont de Pi6t^, of the 
Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), 
and of the minor military establishments, see lo- 
cal guides. The Institut Pasteur, 25 Rue Dutot, 
founded by the eminent scientist whose name it 
bears, is the centre for bacteriological research. 
In addition to the laboratories there is a dis- 
pensary for the treatment of persons who have 
been bitten by mad dogs. In a beautiful crypt 
is the tomb of Pasteur (adm. 1-4 on 1st and 3d 
Sat. of each month, at other times by special 
request). 

An excursion through the Sewers, from the 
Bastille to the Place de la Concorde, in boats 
and wagons, may be made twice a month in 
summer. The Catacombs, which contain the 
bones of most of th© victims of the Revolution, 



FRANCE. Versailles. 213 

and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be 
occasionally visited with permission. 

Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most no- 
ticeable are the Pont d'Austerlitz, which has 5 
stone arches, is 390 feet long, and has the names 
of the principal officers killed in the celebrated 
battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. 
It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858. The 
Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 
1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of 
Henry IV. The Pont des Arts was built for pe- 
destrians only. The Pont du Carrousel has 4 
colossal stone statues, those on the left bank rep- 
resenting Abundance and Industry, and on the 
right the Seine and the City of Paris. The Pont 
Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier 
for the steamers which run to St. Cloud and 
Suresnes, Farther down the Seine are the Pont 
de Solf^rino, 155 yards long, with the names of 
the principal French victories in the campaign 
of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the Pont de 
la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon ; the 
Pont des Invalides, which has statues represent- 
ing victory by land and victory by sea ; the Pont 
de VAlma, with statues between the arches rep- 
resenting different types of French soldiers ; the 
Pont d'lena, built 1806-13, opposite the Champ 
de Mars, with colossal statues of men and 
horses ; the Pont Alexander III., built in 1899 ; 
and the Pont du Jour, a superb viaduct, 570 feet 
long. 

Excursions Near Paris. 

Versailles (Hdtel des Reservoirs, where 
the German princes dwelt during the siege 



214 FRANCE. Veesailles. 

of Paris; Trianon; Moderne) is reached by 
half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont- 
Parnasse stat. (11^-12^ M. ; or by tram- 
way from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, 
through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. 
Cloud, and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy 
old town of 60,000 inhab., which has grown up 
around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an 
isolated plateau between low, forest-covered hills, 
at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace overlooks 
the town. See Hotel de Ville; the Palais de 
Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; the Salle du 
J&u de Paume, the cradle of the French Revo- 
lution; the Statue of Horace Vernet; and the 
Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Hoche, with 
the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral 
of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many 
statues, among which are those of Bayard, Col- 
bert, Massena, and Turenne, and an equestrian 
bronze statue of Louis XIV. In 1661 Louis XIV. 
formed his great scheme of a palace and park;, 
and Levan and Mansard erected the buildings, 
while Le Notre laid out and decorated the gar- 
dens. The palace has not been inhabited since 
1789 ; and in the reign of Louis Philippe it was 
converted into a museum, devoted, as the in- 
scription shows, "To all the Glories of France." 
The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). 
The Museum is open daily, 1-4 (except Mon.). 
The entrance is at the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. 
Notice the Marble Staircase, leading to the first 
story ; and the Queen's Staircase, to the second. 
The Museum is vast, and its magnificent halls 
are crowded with statues and portraits of the 
generals, admirals, and sovereigns of France, 
and with hundreds of pictures of her battles in 



FRANCE. Versailles. 215 

all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, 
Delacroix, Regnault, and others, forming an un- 
rivalled panorama of military glory. 33 grand 
battle-pictures in GaUrie des Batailles, a hall 
396x52 ft. in area. In the Salle du Sacre is the 
great picture of the "Consecration of Napoleon," 
by David; also, Gros's famous painting, "The 
Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des 
Glaces is the most notable hall, 240x35 ft. in 
area, adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679- 
83), and overlooking the gardens. The Bed- 
room of Louis XIV., the Salle des Gardes, the 
King's Antechamber, the Council Hall, the Salle 
de la Guerre; and, on the ground floor, the Halls 
of the Marshals, of the Kings of France (67 
portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of 
the Royal Residences, — are especially worth vis- 
iting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely 
interesting. In the Queen's Chamber the 3 
queens Marie Therese, Marie Leczinska, and 
Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giv- 
ing descriptions of all the rooms, for sale at 
palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and the 
Basim, of Apollo from the steps in front of the 
palace. The fountains (Grandes Eaux) play 
afternoons on the first and third Sundays of 
the month (except in winter) and at certain 
other times (generally announced in the Paris 
papers). The chief curiosities of the gardens 
are the Orangery (1685) ; the Parterres du Midi 
and du Nord; the Pi^ce d'Eau des Suisses; the 
Neptune Fountain; the two fountains near the 
Orangery ; the Latmia Basin; and the Grande 
AlUe du Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 
ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here 
that Louis XIV. gave his Venetian festivals, fa- 



216 FRANCE. St. Cloud.— Sevres. 

mous in history. The G-rand Trianon, a horse- 
shoe-shaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for 
Madame Maintenon, is open daily (12-4). Richly 
furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. 
The gardens of the Petit Trianon are also open 
daily. Notice the curious display of old state- 
coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a 
coach-house near the Grand Trianon. 

St. Cloud (Restaurants: Pavilion Bleu; de la 
Gare; Maurice) is visited by rail from St. Lazare 
or by steamer, which is preferable in warm 
weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to 
the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great 
Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace 
(built in 1572), mainly destroyed by French 
shells, thrown into the wood to dislodge the 
Germans. This was a favorite residence of Na- 
poleon III. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th- 
century style, with a lofty stone spire. New 
Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook 
over Paris from the hill above the station. The 
Palace was inhabited by most of the French sov- 
ereigns, from 1785. The rly. from Paris to Ver- 
sailles runs through the beautiful park, which 
is ornamented with statues, fountains, and lakes. 
See the Trocad^ro Garden, N. of the palace; 
the Pavilion de Breteuil; and the great water- 
jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of 
Montretont, near the rly., was the scene of a 
desi>erate fight, in the sortie made by the French, 
Jan. 19, 1871, in which they lost 3,000 men. 
Monument here to the slain. 

Sevres is easily reached from St. Cloud. Here 
is the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room 
of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; 
strangers admitted without cards. The Work- 



FRANCE. St. Germain-en-Laye. 217 

shops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 
1-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de Valois, Paris). Rly. 
from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. walk from the 
factory. 

St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most 
beautiful excursions near Paris. The principal 
sights are the Pavilion Henri Quatre, in which 
Louis XIV. was born, and Thiers died ; the mag- 
nificent TeiTOce on the border of the forest of 
St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau, where 
James II. of England lived after the Revolution 
of 1688. In the GJi. is a Mausoleum, erected by 
George IV. to the memory of James. The Forest 
of St. Germain, one of the largest near Paris (9, 
000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day 
or two may well be spent in this lofty and 
healthy old town. The Museum of 'National 
Antiquities is in the chateau (open Sun., Tues., 
and Thurs., 11-4). The Terrace, constructed 
by Le Notre in 1672, is 1^ M. long, with superb 
view. From St. Germain to Versailles is a pleas- 
ant walk. 

Rueil is 8| M. from St. Lazare stat. In its 
Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine and 
Queen Horteyise. Malmaison (tramway from 
Ruell, 2 M.) was the favorite home of Na- 
poleon, and there Josephine died in 1814. Not 
far away is the Chateau of Buzenval, near which 
the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight 
of Jan. 19, 1871. About 21 M. from Rueil is 
Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See 
the Restaurant, with walls decorated with land- 
scapes by Corot, Frangais, etc. From thence go 
to Louvec-iennes, a lovely village, with a 15th- 
century ch. It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to 
Voisins. On the hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood 



218 FRANCE. St. Denis. 

a beautiful palace built by Louis XIV., and de- 
stroyed during the Revolution. Victorien Sardou 
lived here. To the W. is Monte -€Hsto, in which 
Dumas the Elder lived so long. 

St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris. Chapel begun 
here, a.d. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his 
head cut off on Montmartre, and who is said to 
have taken it on his arm and walked off across 
the fields. Dagobert built the ch., which was 
the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished 
by Charlemagne in 775, and demolished and a 
larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. 
During the Revolution the ch, was pillaged. It 
was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monu- 
ments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was 
anointed ; the Oriflamme was kept ; Ab§lard 
dwelt ; Joan of Arc hung up her arms ; Henri I. 
abjured Protestantism ; and Napoeon I. was mar- 
ried to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings 
of France from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. 
(1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolu- 
tionists tore them from their tombs, and buried 
them in a common ditch. They are now in the 
crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn 
the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. 
wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and 
enriched with mosaics and statuary. 

Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. 
Enghien is noted for sulphur baths; and at 
Montmorency is the Hermitage which Rousseau 
inhabited, and where he began La Nouvelle 
H^loise. Robespierre and Gr^try also lived here. 
Chantilly was the Versailles of the Princes of 
Cond§, and was beautified by them from the 13th 
century until the Revolution. It has two fine 
chateaux (described by Madame de Sevigng), and 



FRANCE. FONTAINEBLEAU. 219 

a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and 
autumn races here. Compiegne has always been 
a royal residence. Napoleon I. was fond of it, 
and Napoleon III. entertained there with great 
magnificence. The Galerie des Fetes is superb 
The Library was the favorite work-place of Na- 
poleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. 
around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excur- 
sion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand 
feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by 
Viollet-le-Duc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, 
on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Hotel des 
Rui/nes, near by. Ermenonville is the beautiful 
retreat where Rousseau died, in 1778. Cele- 
brated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine. 

Trains run to Fontainebleau (Aigle-Noir; Sa- 
voy; de la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons. 
(Return tickets 9 fr. 90c., 7 fr. 15c. for 1st and 2d 
class ) . On the road is Charenton, with its celebrated 
lunatic asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there 
is a horse and dog hospital ; Montmesly and 
Melun, with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic 
town-hall. From stat., omnibus or tramway (1^ 
M. ; SOc.-l fr.) to the Chateau (open daily, 10-5 
in summer, 11-4 in winter). This stately palace 
was built by Francis I., on the site of Louis 
VII. 's castle; and here Conde died, the Edict of 
Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII. was born, 
Josephine was divorced. Napoleon signed his 
abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Na- 
poleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with 
rich frescoes and paintings, Gobelins tapestries. 
and antique furnishings. See the boudoir of 
Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms of Anne of 
Austria and Catherine de M^dicis, and the 
splendid Salle des Fetes. This was a favorite 



220 FRANCE. Orleans. 

abode of the Empress Eug§nie and her son. The 
Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most 
beautiful in the world, must be seen. It is 56 
M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and 
heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. 
On the borders are many charming villages in- 
habited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of 
Millet will visit Barbizon. 

Sceaux (Etoile du Nord) is a beautiful hill- 
town, with a delicious Park and the Chateau 
where Colbert once lived and Voltaire wrote sev- 
eral of his famous tragedies. Chatillon was the 
scene of many combats during the siege. 

Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat 
every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 
and burned by the Germans in 1871, the Em- 
press Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. 
This was also the parish of Rabelais. Fine view 
from Terrace; noble trees. The walk through 
Meudon to Versailles is charming. 

Orleans {Terminus; de la Boule d'Or), 
founded by the Romans, on the Loire, contains 
a noble Flamboyant Cathedral, the only Gothic 
cathedral built in Europe since the Middle Ages. 
It has a grand interior, with double aisles ; and 
2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the bronze 
replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc made 
by Princess M^rie, the Museum, and the Mairie. 
Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of 
Burgundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the 
largest in the country. Blois {Hotel d'Angle- 
terre; Grand Hotel) has a stately old Chateau, 
for centuries a residence of kings and queens. 
Fine old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) 
hence, by omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, 



^ FRANCE. TouBS. 221 

[and historic Castle of Chambord, built by Fran- 
icis I. and still in the Bourbon family. It is sur- 
frounded by a park 20 sq. M. in area. The 
[Chateau de Chamnont, 1 M. from the station of 
Onzain, is a high-towered hill-fortress, where 
Catherine de Medicis lived, Cardinal d'Amboise 
was born, the Prince de Conde was imprisoned, 
and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. Eleven M. beyond 
is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched on 
a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gar- 
dens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvel- 
lous stone-carving. Ten M. south is the castle of 
Chenonceaux, built by Francis I., inhabited by 
Diane de Poitiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the 
favorite resort of Voltaire, Rousseau, Boling- 
broke, etc. Mary Queen of Scots and Tasso also 
visited it. It is still in perfect order, and ele- 
gantly furnished. Adm. 10-12, 2-6 daily ; 1 fr. . 

Tours {Hotel de I'Vnivers; Metropole) in Tou- 
raine, on the Loire, has the reputation of being 
the place where the best French is spoken. See 
Gothic Cathedral, founded in 1170; Episcopal 
Palace; many famous schools ; a Museum with 
200 paintings ; a fine Public Library ; and two 
ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), be- 
neath one of which the wife of Charlemagne was 
buried. Many American and English families re- 
side here. See Plessis les Tours, the home of 
Louis XI. 

Routes From Paris to Switzerland. 

Our itinerary leads to Germany, before enter- 
ing Switzerland. 

From Paris to Geneva, Jjy Dijon and Macon. — 
In 11 hrs., by express train (distance, 388 J M.). 
Many stop at Macon over night. Dijon {HCtel 
du Jura; de la Cloche, Terminus) , 75,000 inhab.. 



222 FRANCE. Rheims. 

is in the wine-growing district. See Palace of 
the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with 
very interesting museum ; the Castle, built by 
Louis XI. ; the Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Ndtre 
Danie (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. 
Macon (Hdtel de V Europe) is an important rly. 
junction (good buffet). Fine views of the Jura 
Mts. from the train. At Amherieu you begin to 
climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Aix-les- 
Bains, Chmjihery, and Turin. Near here some 
fine viaducts, and the Fort de VEcluse, the key to 
the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse 
a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. 

From Paris to Simtzerland, via Pontarlier. 
Same route as previous one to Dijon. From 
Pmitarlier the route leads up through the mts. 
to Berne; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A 
branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne. 

From Paris to Basle, by Troyes, Chaumont, 
Vesoul, and Belfort, the fortress which made a 
heroic resistance in 1870, and thence either 
through Alsace, touching at Mulhouse, or by 
Delle to Basle. 

From Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, 
and Mulhouse. The interesting towns on this 
route are Meaux {Hotel des t7'ois Rois), 25 M. 
from Paris, in a lovely situation on the Marne. 
Superb Gothic Cathedral of St. Etienne, with 
Monuments of Boss net (who was Bishop of 
Meaux) and Philip of Castille. Chateau Thiei-ry 
was the birthplace of Lafontaine. From Eper- 
nay, branch to Rheims {Hotel Lion d'Or; 
Grand), city of 110,000 inhab. In its cathedral 
the kings of France have been crowned. See 
magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. of St. Remi, 
founded by Glovis in 6th century ; and Cathe- 



FRANCE. Nancy. 223 

dral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest 
in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high; 
filled with beautiful statues and monuments. 
Splendid rose-windows and interesting Treas- 
ury. Charles VII. was crowned here, Joan of 
Arc standing by his side. The Hotel de Ville 
contains a fine public library. Rly. to Sedan 
(Hotel de la Croix d'Or), a town of 20,000 in- 
habitants, where MacMahon's army of 80,000 
men surrendered. 

Beyond Epernay on the main line are Chalons- 
suT-MsLme (Benard) with interesting ch. of Notre 
Dame, and Bar-le-Duc (Hotel du Cygne), with 
statues of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excel- 
mans ; monument of the Prince of Orange. Toul, 
on the Moselle, is a fortress which was besieged 
in 1870. Nancy (Grand; Am6ricain), the old 
capital of Lorraine, and the prettiest town in 
France, with a large Cathedral, an interesting 
Museum (in the Hotel de Ville), a splendid new 
Prefecture, and a fine specimen of Flamboyant 
Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine. 
N6tre Dame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb 
of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived in 
Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See 
triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of 
Thiers, Callot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the 
gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- 
gundy, close to which was found the body of 
Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle 
(1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the 
Vosges Mts and down to Strasbourg. 



BELGIUM. St. Quentin. — Mons. 225 



BELGIUM. 

WE now invite your attention to the route 
from Paris to Brussels and other sections 
ot Belgium, our advice being that it is well to 
see portions of Belgium, Holland, and Germany 
before visiting Switzerland and Italy. 

The most direct route from Paris to Brussels 
is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Mau- 
ieuge, and 3Ions (time, 6^ hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 
c, 27 fr. 20 c, 18 fr. 90 c). You pass through 
St. Denis ; Chantilly ; Creil ; Compiegne ; St. 
Quentin, an important manufacturing centre, 
with a noble ch. as well as a magnificent City 
Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through the 
valley of the^ Sambre to Maul)euge and thence to 
Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Grand 
Hotel; Monarque) had a castle built by Julius 
Csesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining 
country. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of 
Ste. Vaudru (St. Waltrudis) (1450-1589) and 
Hotel de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by 
the Spaniards. At Malplaquet, 3 M. S. E., Marl- 
borough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 
20,000 men. Between Mons and Brussels is Hal 
(Hotel St. Martin) with the elegant 14th-century 
church of Notre Dame, still a place for pious 
pilgrimages. Before reaching Brussels you can 
see Ste. Gudule's towers. 

Another route from Paris to Brussels tra- 
verses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons' (fares, 
39 fr. 25 c, 29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai 



226 BELGIUM. Douai.— Lille. 

{Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de 
guerre, and has an interesting museum and town- 
hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress 
and a great manufacturing town. Here is a 
statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- 
ciennes, From thence to Mons you pass through 
a fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, 
where the French won a great victory over the 
Austrians in 1792. 

There is also a direct route from Paris to 
Ghent by Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; 
fares, 37 fr. 70 c, 28 fr. 25 c). Lille {Hotel de 
VEurope; de la Paix ; Grand), a manufacturing 
town of 210,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress 
on the river Deule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an 
altar-piece by Rubens. In the Palais des Beaux- 
Arts (daily, ex. Satur., 10-4) are many paint- 
ings by Dutch and Flemish artists and a pre- 
cious collection of drawings by the Italian mas- 
ters. In the Grande Place, a square in the 
center of the old town Is a column commemora- 
tive of the defense against the Austrian siege of 
1792. On one side of this square is the modern 
Hotel de Ville. In the Lyc§e Faidherbe is a 
Natural History Museum. In the court of the 
Bourse is a statue of Napoleon by Lemaire. Rou- 
baix {Hotel FerraiUe), 5 M. beyond, is a great 
woollen and cotton working town of 125,000 in- 
habitants. Tourcoing {Hotel Terminus) , on the 
French frontier, is a factory-town of 82,000 in- 
habitants. 

From London one may go via Calais to Brus- 
sels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 
21 fr. 30 c, 15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving 
London at 8.05 p.m. you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. 
(fares, £2 11 s., £1 18 s.) 



BELGIUM. Namue.— Liege. 227 

From Paris to Li^ge, via Charleroi, is 226i M. 
(express in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 
21 fr. 35 c). This is also the route from Paris 
to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 
20 c). Charleroi (Sieberts;; Gro/nd) is a mod- 
ern town of 28,000 inhabitants, an industrial 
centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. The 
line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to 
Namur (Harscamp; St. Auhain; Flandre), a 
pretty fortified town, of Roman origin, with a 
vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several 
spacious squares, and a Renaissance Cathedral. 
Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, — 
among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis 
XIV. in person. Archceological Museum (daily, 
10-1, ^ fr., Sun. free) worth visiting. From 
Namur you may go to Luxeinbourg. 

Liege (Hdtel Arnold Moliren; Grand; de 
SuMe; Dounen), the Flemish LuicTc and German 
Luttich, has 175,000 inhab., and is picturesquely 
situated on the Meuse. See Quentin Durward 
for a recital of the striking events in its history. 
This town, "the Sheffield of Belgium," is noted 
for its weapon-factories, and one quarter is 
given up to workshops. The Chs. of St. Jacques, 
St. Denis, St. Martin, Ste. Croix (10th century), 
St. Barthelemy, as well as the Cathedral St. 
Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathe- 
dral dates from the 13th century. The splendid 
Gothic Palais de Justice (described in Quentin 
Durward) was the palace of the prince-bishops, 
built in 1508-40 by Cardinal de la Marck, a rela- 
tive of the "Wild Boar of the Ardennes," Mus^e 
des Beaux-Arts (daily, 10-4, free) containing 
a number of excellent modern paintings and a 
few by old Flemish masters ; Mus^e d'Atisem- 



228 BELGIUM. Spa.— Luxembourg. 

hourg and Archwological Museum (both daily ex. 
Sat, 9-1, 2-4, free) ; Palais cle Justice; Univer- 
sity (library, 250,000 vols.) ; the Communal 
Museum; the Citadel, with grand views; the 
Royal Camion-foimdry, the Pare d'Auroy, and 
the Pare du Champ des Oiseaux. The environs 
have beautiful scenery. 

The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque 
region to Verviers (15^ M.), a modern city of 
woollen-factories ; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle. 
From Li^ge you may visit Spa. On the way is 
Chaudfontaine (Hotel des Bains; de la Rolonde), 
D famous watering-place. The waters (used in 
baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. Eight M. 
beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line 
(^ hr.) to Spa (Grand Hotel Britannique; des 
Bains; de Spa; Continental; de la Poste), one of 
the oldest European watering-places. The cli- 
mate is remarkably fine, although exposed to 
sudden variation, dangerous for consumptives. 
The waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should 
be taken daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. 
Season, May 15-Oct. 15. 10,000 to 15,000 vis- 
itors come here annually. The village (8,000 
inhab.) is in a pretty glen, among wooded hills 
and scenery famous for beauty. 

From Namur you may go to Luxembourg and 
Tr§ves, and thence make a delightful excursion 
down the Moselle by steamboat to Coblence. 
You may also go from Lifege (109f M. in 5-6 
hrs.) to Luxembourg. 

Luxembourg (Grand Hdtel Brasseur; de Lux- 
embourg), formerly a famous fortress, the capital 
of the grand duchy, was made a neutral state by 
the Treaty of London in 1867. It is very pic- 
turesquely situated on a rocky plateau, with 



BELGIUM. Beussels. 229 

precipices on 3 sides. The Alzette valley is di- 
vided by a fortified rock called the Bock, on 
which is the ancient Melusina Tower. See Cathe- 
dral, Hotel de Ville, Arcliceological Museum, and 
the Park on the site of the old fortifications. 
Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by Thionville. 

Brussels and Environs. 

Brussels (Lower Town; Palace Hotel; des 
Boulevards; Upper Town; Ast07'ia et Mengelle; 
Carlton; Bellevxie), the capital of Belgium, has 
(including suburbs) 675,000 inhab. To appre- 
ciate Brussels, read the histories of the old 
town,— the terrible period of the Spanish domi- 
nation, the riots and bombardments in the 17th 
century, the annexation to France, and the union 
with and secession from the Low Countries. 
Brussels stands on an undulating plain. It is , 
divided into the Ui)per and Lower Towns. On 
the hill are the palaces, the Park, and the fine 
Rue Roy ale. Below, in the picturesque older 
portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels is 
on the line betw^een the Walloons and Flem- 
ings; and you will hear French and Flemish 
spoken, the former prevailing. Go first to the 
Grande Place, the ancient forum of Brussels. 
Note the exquisite fagade of the Hotel de Ville 
(built 1402-4.3), and the stately spire, 370 ft. 
high, at whose top is a colossal statue of St. 
Michael. Entrance fee, i fr., ascent of tower 
i fr. additional. Beautiful tapestries and paint- 
ings in the Salle des Fetes, etc. Opposite is the 
Maison du Roi, built by Charles V. (1514-25). 
There were imprisoned Counts Egmont and 
Hoorne, and in front they were decapitated, in 



23© BELGIUM. Brussels. 

1568. Many of picturesque houses on the Place 
were built by the Guilds, as meeting-places. 
Tournaments were held here in the 15th century. 
The famous Mannikin fountain is back of the 
Hotel de Ville. The Galerie St. Huhert is one 
of the finest arcades in Europe. In the steep 
Rue Montague de la Cour are the finest shops. 
At the top is the Place Royale. On the left is 
the great Palais de V Industrie, with statue of 
Prince Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of 
Modern Painting (10-4) contains about 400 
paintings of varying degrees of excellence. The 
Museum of Old Paintings (10-4), in the Palais 
des Beaux-Arts, contains 13 canvasses by Ru- 
bens ; many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rem- 
brandts. In the Musee de Sculpture, in the same 
building are some very good works by modern 
Belgian sculptors. Next take the Rue de la 
Regence, ending at the Palais de Justice, which 
covers more ground than St. Peter's at Rome, 
and cost $8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by are 
the Palace of the Comte de Flandres; the Place 
du Petit 8al)lo?i, with monuments to Counts Eg- 
mont and Hoorne ; the Rotjal Conservatory of 
Music; and the Synagogue. Next, going by the 
Rue Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade 
(military music, 3-4^, in summer) ; then to the 
King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine 
pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. 
When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.). 
Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. 
The Palais des Academies is near the Park. 
This building, in Italian style, contains the 
Academies of letters, arts and sciences, and 
medicine; and a noble concert hall, with paint- 
ings of episodes in Belgian history. The Palais 



BELGIUM. Brussels, 231 

clu Cinquantenaire, with a triumphal arch, 
erected by King Leopold 11. contains the Musee 
Royal des Arts D6coratifs et Industriels in which 
are a fine collection of lace, casts of oriental and 
antique sculptures, and many silver, copper, and 
glass works of art; and the Musee Royal des 
Antiquit^s. On the Pare Leopold is the Mus4e 
d'Historie Natyrelle, the collections in which are 
limited to animal species either now or in pre- 
historic times native to the country correspond- 
ing to the present kingdom of Belgium. 

Ste. Gudule, the great Gothic Church (12-4, 
1 person, 1 fr. : 2-6 persons, | fr. each), was 
founded in the 11th century ; choir and tran- 
sept, 13th century ; towers and nave, 14th. The 
carved pulpit, made in 1699, represents the Ex- 
pulsion from Paradise. Superb stained-glass 
windows ; and many rare old tombs. 

Other Objects of Interest. — Place des Martyrs, 
with monument to those who perished in the 
Revolution of 1830; Place des Barricades, and 
statue of Vesalius, the anatomist ; Place du Lux- 
embourg, statue of Cockerill ; Place de la Mon- 
naie, and Opera House; Bourse; Rue Neuve; 
handsome new boulevards around the old city: 
Observatory ; hospitals ; National Banlv ; Musee 
Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian 
painter) ; Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de 
Hal; precious paintings in Aremberg Palace; Bo- 
tanical Garden; Bois de la Canibre, the Bois de 
Boulogne of Brussels. 

At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste. Marie, 
where members of the royal family are buried. 
In the cemetery, grave and statue of Malibran. — 
Royal Palace, the King's favorite residence. 
Monument to Leopold I. — Manor of Bouchout. 



232 BELGIUM. Louvain.— Ostend. 

where dwelt Carlotta, ex-Empress of Mexico. 

Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine 
I'Alleud and steam tram to the Butte du Lion, 
or to Waterloo and tram to Mont St. Jean; or 
you can go by mail-coach from the Place Royale, 
at 9.30 A.M. (round-trip, 7 f r. ; coachman, 1 fr.). 
Guides, Belgian and English, on the field (fees, 
2-4 fr.). Waterloo is a Flemish village. The 
Mt. St. Jean and the Butte du Lion, on which is 
a pyramid and a colossal lion, should be visited. 
Museum at Hotel du Mus^e. 

Louvain (Hotel de Suede; M^tropole), popu- 
lation 45,(XX), may be visited from Brussels in 1 
hr. (fares, 2 fr. 30 c, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). 
This was one of the great weaving-centres; but 
after 1383 the weavers went to England. The 
Hotel de Yille is one of the marvels of Belgium. 
This jewel of Gothic art was built 144a-63. Ex- 
terior lavishly decorated with statues. The 
great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open daily, ex- 
cept 2-4; fee to sacristan ^ fr.) has a fine taber- 
nacle and many remarkable paintings. Les 
Halles, built 1317, and the vast prison, should be 
seen. The University, founded in 1426, is Roman 
Catholic, and has 1,600 students. 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. 

You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Ant- 
werp or Brussels ; or, if you come directly from 
England to Ostend, you can go through Bruges 
and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, Dover to Ostend, 
15 s., 10 s. ; 68 M. ; time, 4-6 hrs. Fares, Ostend 
to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c, 

Ostend (Continental; de la Plage; de VOc^an; 
Splendide; Regina; Leopold Deux) is the seo- 



BELGIUM. Bruges. 233 

ond maritime town in Belgium (40,000 inh.) 
and the summer residence of the king. It re- 
ceives about 18,000 visitors annually. Renowned 
sea-baths ; magnificent stone dylie, 1 M. long ; 
monumental Cursaal ; Leopold Parli, filled with 
cafes. Celebrated oyster-parks here, where Eng- 
lish oysters are stored in purified sea-water 
tanks. From Ostend it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 
c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to 

Bruges (Hotel cle Flandre; Du Commerce; 
de Londres; Panier d'Or), 60,000 inh., on the 
grand canals to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It 
is, like Amsterdam, called the "Venice of the 
North," because seamed with canals. Handsome 
rly. Stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The 13th century was 
the epoch of Bruges' greatest prosperity. It was 
the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic League, 
and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its 
decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place 
is the Fleur de Ble Inn of which Longfellow 
sings. There also stood the house in which 
Maximilian was confined in the revolt of 1488; 
and opposite is the home of Charles II. of Eng- 
land, in his exile. The Cathedral of Saint Salva- 
tor (open daily, except 12-4; opened then for 
small fee) stands on the site of one built in 
1358, and has a great number of fine old Flemish 
pictures (fee to climb the tower, 1 fr.). Notre 
Dame contains some veiled paintings, shown for 
a fee of ^ fr. The choir and nave date from 
1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest 
brick tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). 
.Handsome bronze doors ; exquisite marble group 
of the Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, 
over the altar. In chapel on r. (1 fr.), sumptu- 
ous ancient tombs of Charles the Bold and his 



234 BELGIUM. Ghent. 

daughter Marie. Carved pulpit. Large collec- 
tion of paintings. 

The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one 
of the quaint monuments of the Communes, is 
350 ft. high, (fee, ^ fr. below, ^ fr. above). The 
chimes (48 bells) play every quarter-hour. — 
The Hotel de VUle (1377) is a noble Gothic 
edifice, with 6 towers. — The Hospital St. Jean, 
\V. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 9-4 
or 6,1 fr.), is renowned for its marvellous paint- 
ings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. 
The Chasse de Ste, TJrsule is the best. The 
Mus6e Communal (9-1, 2-3.30 or 6, i f r. ; Sun. 
11-1, free) has many remarkable pictures by the 
old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved 
monuments of Spanish families. — The Chapelle 
du St. Sang was built in 1150 as the receptacle 
for a phial that the Patriarch of Jerusalem had 
given to Theodoric of Flanders, with some drops 
of the Saviour's blood. Portal and staircase, 
Flamboyant Gothic. The Palais de Justice (re- 
built, 1722) has a carved chimney-piece (1528- 
29) in the Court Room (ifr.). Bruges, though 
decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty 
girls and decorated old houses. See statues of 
Membling and Jan van Byck. From Bruges it is 
f hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., Ifr. 70c) to 

Ghent (Hotel Oanda; de la Gour St. Georges; 
de la Poste) , a city of 165,000 inhab., on the river 
Scheldt. The town is divided into 26 islands, 
and has 88 bridges. The history of Ghent is 
romantic. It became the capital of Flanders in 
1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin had introduced 
weaving. The great Guilds, under Jacques van 
Artevelde, etc., ruled this region for 2 centuries, 
and often came to blows among themselves, as 



BELGIUM. Ghent. 235 

on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a 
terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there 
were 40,000 weavers; and the woollen workers 
alone furnished 18,000 men to the civic army. 
Charles V. was born in Ghent in 1500. From 
the Spanish domination dates the decline. 11,- 
000 inhab. emigrated at once to England and 
Holland. Louis XIV. took the town after a 
siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napoleon I. 
made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise. 

Notice the MarcM du Vendredi, a great square 
surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the 
political forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van 
Artevelde. In the Cathedral of St. Bavon (open 
daily, except 12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 
991 and restored in 1228; the noble nave and 
transepts (1533) ; and the tower, built in 1533-34 
(416 steps; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 persons). See the 
picture of "The Adoration of the Spotless Lamb," 
by the brothers Van Eyck. Although more than 
400 years old, it preserves its brilliancy of col- 
oring. Here also is a chef-d'oeuvre of Rubens. 
Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament the 
choir. The Hotel de Ville, built 1481-1628, is a 
remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, 
whose E. fagade is very striking. The Belfry, 
built 1183-1339, whose bells assembled the citi- 
zens, is 386 ft. high, and commands an exten- 
sive prospect over Flanders (ascent, 2 fr.). 
There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- 
land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in 
Ghent, is a community of women who are not 
bound by vows, but live by their own labors or 
resources. This institution of secular saints had 
its origin in the 7th century. The old Grand 
Beguinage formed a separate quarter of the 



236 BELGIUM. Malines. 

city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 con- 
vents and 100 houses. The new suburban one 
has many handsome Gothic houses, and a vast 
ch. 600 women live here, and make rich laces. 
See St. Jacques Ch.; St. Nicholas and St. 
Michael, crowded with pictures ; St. Pierre, with 
rare old paintings; the imposing Palais de Jus- 
tice; the University, with a splendid marble ro- 
tunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastery 
(200,000 vols.) ; and the Museum (^ fr.). The 
Mus^e d'Archeoloffie (10-4 or 6, i fr., Sun. free) 
contains a very valuable collection of Flemish 
antiquities. The Musee des Beaux-Arts (10-4 
or 5, ^ fr., Sun. and Thurs. free) contains some 
good paintings, old and modern, and a number 
of modern sculptures. The Palace of the Counts 
of Flanders, built in 1180, where John of Gaunt 
was born, 1340, is open daily, 10-4 or 6, ^ fr. 
On Marche du Vendredi is an old cannon, such 
as stone missiles were fired from. See Botanical 
Garden (Ghent is called "The Queen of Flow- 
ers") ; Zoological Garden (fee, Ifr.) ; ruins of 
Athey of St. Bavon. Fares from Ghent to Brus- 
sels, 4fr. 35c., 3fr. 25c., 2fr. 20c. 

From Brussels to Antiverp trains run in 1 hr., 
passing Malines, or Mechlir {Hotel de VEurope; 
de Beffer; de la Couronne), a city of 60,000 
inhab., the ecclesiastical capital of Belgium. In 
1572-80 the town was sacked and burned by the 
Spaniards, the troops of the Prince of Orange, 
and the English. See the Cathedral of St. Rom- 
hold, begun in 1451. Imposing interior and carved 
pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a splen- 
did chime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The 
Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is 
Rubens' Miraculous Draught of Fishes (1 fr.). 



BELGIUM. Antwerp. 237 

In St. Jean is a fine Triptych by Rubens (^ fr.). 
Mechlin is renowned for its beautiful lace. 

Antwerp {Grand Hotel; des Flandres; St. 
Antoine; de V Europe) is one of the most flour- 
ishing commercial towns in Europe (400,000 
inhab.), and one of the quaintest and most re- 
plete with historical and artistic interest. Na- 
I)oleon I. wished to make Antwerp a great mari- 
time arsenal, and built vast docks ; but the Ant- 
werp people have constructed others yet more 
vast. Climb the Cathedral Tower (75 c), and 
look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low 
Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathe- 
dral (built 1352-1530) is the most imposing ch. 
in Belgium (Sun. and Thurs. 8-12, free; other 
days 12-4, 1 fr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. 
long, 130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 
6 rows of columns. Choir built 1352-1411. 
Philip II. once held a Chapter of the Order of 
the Golden Fleece here. In 1566 the Iconoclasts 
did irreparable damage. (See Motley's "Dutch 
Republic," for romantic episodes in Antwerp's 
history.) In the south transept is Rubens' 
Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In 
the north transept is Rubens' The Elevation of 
the Cross, Above the high altar is The Assump- 
tion, also by Rubens. See stone outside with the 
epitaph of Quentin Matsys, and the sculptured 
pulpit and tabernacles. The magnificent tower 
is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the chimes have 
99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to Mech- 
lin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron 
well-canopy made by Quentin Matsys. St. Paul, 
St. Andreiv, and St. Antoine contain rare 
old Flemish paintings. The Gh. of St. Jacques 
(built 1429-1507) contains the tomb of Ru- 



238 BELGIUM. Antwerp. 

bens, and many good pictures and sculptures 
(small fee). St. Augustine has pictures by Ru- 
bens, Van Dyck, etc. The Hotel de Ville, built 
in 1561-65, contains splendid mural paintings 
(done in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old 
Guild houses (1513-79) near by. Visit the beau- 
tiful new Gothic Bourse; the Palais de Justice; 
and the House of BuJ)ens (Rue Rubens), where 
the painter died. The Mus^e Royal des Beaux- 
Arts (daily, 10-4 or 5, 1 f r. ; Sun. free) is the 
best picture gallery in Belgium, containing sev- 
eral hundred paintings, old and modern, with 
many Rubenses and Van Dycks (catalogue, 3 
fr.). For notable private collections inquire 
here. The Mus^e Plantin (10-4 or 5, 1 fr., Sun. 
free) is an old Flemish dwelling house and print- 
ing establishment containing antique furniture, 
tapestries, and a number of paintings. The 
Mus^e de Folklore contains articles and docu- 
ments relating to the customs of the Low Coun- 
tries in all ages. The new Boulevards, on the 
site of the walls ; the vast docks, quays, and 
warehouses ; the Park ; and the statues of Ru- 
bens, King Leopold I., Van Dyck, and Teniers, 
are worth seeing. The Citadel and fortifications 
are interesting. 

Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice 
weekly, in 9 hours ; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. 
To London, Sun., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr. To Lon- 
don liia Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 e. Regu- 
lar departures for all the great ports of thQ 
world. 



HOI^AND. ROTTEBDAM. 239 



HOLLAND. 

THE tourist may very pleasantly and profit- 
ably spend 2 or 3 days to a week in Hol- 
land. Go from Antwerp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 
10 fr. 45c., 7 fr. 70c., 4 fr. 90c,) to 

Rotterdam (Maas; Leygraaf ; Weimer; Coo- 
mans), the second city in Holland (400,000 in- 
habitants). The Maas is here navigable for the 
largest ships ; and the scene on the quay is very 
animated. Superb docks, and many canals. The 
steamboats land passengers near the Boompjes 
quay. Here stood the Dutch East India House, 
now turned into colonial warehouses. Rotter- 
dam builds many ships ; has a heavy trade with 
Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London 
and other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point 
for the departure of emigrants for America. The 
canals are bordered with trees, and the suburbs 
are pleasing. The Hoogstraut, the Willemskade, 
the new quay, are worth seeing. The Boymans 
Museum (open daily, 10-3; 10 c.) has fine ex- 
amples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Durer, Wouver- 
mans, and Ary Schefifer. In the Groote-Kerk is a 
noble organ ; also monuments of several famous 
admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 feet 
high (60 c). The Old Ch., the S. Ch., the new 
Tomn Hall, the Exchange, the Botanical Oar- 
dens, the Zoological Gardens, may be easily seen 
in an afternoon. The statue of Erasmus stands 
in the Groote-Markt ; and on the house which 
was his birthplace is the inscription, Hcec est 



240 HOLLAND. The Hague. 

parva donius, magnus qud natus Erasmus. The 
'New Park is W. of the town. Walk along the 
Maas, noting the peculiar costume of the peas- 
antry and the singular neatness of the houses. 
From Rotterdam to the Hague takes ^ hr. (fares 
2 g. 20 c, 1 g. 60 c). On this route is Schiedam, 
renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de Ville 
and Exchange), and 'Delft (Hotel LulyrecMs), 
a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for 
porcelain, but now dull and dignified. The stair- 
case on which William of Orange was shot 
(1584) is still shown. It was from Delft that 
the Pilgrims embarked for Plymouth and Amer- 
ica (1620). In the Oude Kerk, see the tomb of 
Admirals Van Tromp (1653), Hein, etc. In the 
Nieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent Mau- 
soleum of William of Orange. 

The Hague (Hotel Belleviie; des Indes; Pan- 
lez; Vieux Doelen; Central), the capital of Hol- 
land (256,000 inhab.), is in summer one of the 
most charming places in Europe. It nestles in a 
delightful forest, where all the characteristics 
of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and 
winding brooks and canals — appear. The Mau- 
ritshuis Picture Gallery (open free daily, 10- 
3; Sat, 10-1; catalogue, 50 c.) contains the very 
best examples of the Dutch school of art, and 
many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's 
famous Bull, Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, 
the Presentation in the Temple, etc. On the E. 
is a statue of William the Silent (1848). In 
the Buitenhof, statue of William II. Opposite 
the Royal Palace, equestrian statue of Prince 
William I. See the Marine Museum, with its 
wonderful collection of models for ships ; the 
Royal Lihrary (500,000 vols.) ; the collection of 



HOLLAND. ScHEVENiNGEN. — Leyden. 241 

40,000 coins and medals ; the Groote KerTc, with 
its beautiful tombs; the Eloster KerJc; the New 
Ch., where Spinoza is buried. The ponderous 
old Bmnenhof Palace and the Buitenhof square 
are of great historic interest. The Grand Coun- 
cil now holds its sessions in the ancient torture- 
room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach the 
gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt 
was slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the 
grand National Monument (built 1863-69), cov- 
ered with statues. The national buildings are 
plain and substantial. On the Noordeinde is the 
Royal Palace, and the old Museum of King Wil- 
liam II. Prince Frederick's Palace is not far 
from the Park. See the pretty royal villa called 
Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with 
treasures of art (fee, 1 g.). 

From The Hague it is about 3 miles (steam 
tramway or electric road) to the pretty seaside 
resort of Scheveningen (Palace Hotel; d'Orange; 
Kurhaus; Park; Central; Wittehrug), a fishing- 
village among the dunes. In summer, the fash- 
ionable world of North Germany, Holland, and 
England, and many people from the S., assemble 
here. Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Ley- 
den and Haarlem may be visited between The 
Hague and Amsterdam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 
g., 3 g. 5 c. ; to Leyden, 80 c, 60 c, 40 c. ; 
from Leyden to Haarlem, 1 g. 40 c, 1 g. 10 c, 
70 c). 

Leyden (Hotel Levedag; Lion d*Or; Central) 
60,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see 
Motley). Leading objects of interest; the 
spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the Natural His- 
tory Museum (open daily, free), with the finest 
cabinet of comparative anatomy in Europe (open 



242 HOLLAND. Haarlem. — Amsterdam. 

daily, 2-5, except Sun.) ; the Mtcseum of An- 
tiquities (open free daily, 10-4 or 5) ; the Ethno- 
graphical Museum (open daily, 50 c.) ; the 
Municipal Museum of antiquities and paintings 
(open daily, 10_3) ; the University (600 stu- 
dents), founded after the siege, with excellent 
observatory; Library, 200,000 volumes, 6,000 
MSS. ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies plants). 
The Hotel de Ville (Stadhuis) has many inscrip- 
tions relative to the siege of 1574. 

Haarlem (Lion d'Or; Funckler; Leeuwerik) 
is a town of 78,000 inhab. The siege by the 
Spaniards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are 
described in Motley's picturesque history. The 
Cathedral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the 
nave. The vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played 
Tues. 1-2, and Thurs., 2-3; at other times 12 
fl. for a party. Visit the interior. Marble crypt 
under the organ. From the tower extensive 
view. See the Teyler Museum (Mon. to Fri., 
11-3 or 4, free) of paintings, etchings, and nat- 
ural history objects; the Municipal Museum 
(10-3 or 4, 25 c, Sun., 12-3 free) with several 
hundred paintings. ; the statue of Coster, in- 
ventor of printing with metal types; Coster's 
House and the Haarlem Forcyf, a fine park. 

Amsterdam (Amstel; BracJc's Doelen; Biilej 
Americain; Victoria) is a city of 590,000 inhab., 
named from the Amstel, an Inlet of the Zuider 
Zee, communicating with the North Sea by the 
N. Holland Canal, 50 M. long, the most gigantic 
undertaking at the time ever executed. It com- 
mences opposite Amsterdam, and extends to the 
Helder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000. The 
town is built upon piles driven into the sand. 
Its canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. 



HOLLAND. Amsterdam. 243 

The finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near 
by is St. Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 
1488-1585). The Palace is a huge stone struc- 
ture, standing on 13,695 piles. Near it are the 
Dam, the memorial of 1831, the Exchange, the 
Post-Office, the Nieutve Kerk, the Seaman's 
Club. From the tower, one has a magnificent 
panorama of the city. Fine marble sculptures 
on the front of the Royal Palace, in which the 
Throne Hall, the Grand Hall, decorated with 
trophies, and the Audience Hall, are remarkable 
(fee, 50 c), The Botanical and Zoological Gar- 
dens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to those of any 
other city. The Ryks Museum, (free daily, 10- 
3), has the best collection of paintings in Hol- 
land (get catalogue) and also fine collections 
of furniture, textiles, jeweli*y, and sculptures. 
The Municipal Museum contains modern paint- 
ings and a collection of antiquities. The Fodor 
Museum has very good French and Dutch pictures. 
See statue of Reynl^randt ; Admiral de Ruyter's 
House; great range of state warehouses on En- 
trepot Dock ; Park, good music on Sun. ; shops 
where diamonds are polished; Jetvish quarter. 
Amsterdam is the cleanest city in Europe; on a 
bright Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. 
Notice the Fountain, commemorating the events 
in 1830-31. In the old church on the Dam, 
monument to Van Buyter. Pleasant excursions 
to Barmen, and other pretty suburban towns. 
Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean village. 
At Zaandam is the house where Peter the Great 
worked when learning the shipwright's trade. 
Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares. 
2 g. Oc, 1 g. 25c.) from Amsterdam to 



244 HOLLAND. Uteecht. 

Utrecht {Kasteel van Antwerpen; Pays Bas; 
de V Europe; de la Station), the Roman Tra- 
jectum, a fine city of 120,000 inhabitants, the 
home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble 
Cathedral here, constructed in the 13th century, 
and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. 
The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 
321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the 
church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. 
South of the cathedral is the Vniversity, founded 
in 1636, very rich; 1000 students. See the ex- 
cellent collection in the Antiquarian Museum 
(daily, 10-4, 10 c. ; Sun. and Wed. 1-4 free) and 
the many specimens of Dutch ecclesiastical art 
in the Archiepiscopal Museum (daily, 10-4, 50 
c). The Palace of the Popes, founded by 
Adrian VL, with a statue of St. Salvador, is now 
the palace of the provincial government. Adrian 
was born in Utrecht. Fine new boulevards 
around the city. 

From Utrecht you can begin your journey 
up the Rhine. Take rail to DUsseldorf, pass- 
ing Arnhem, the Arenacum of the ancients. 
The Romans encamped here 70 years b.c, and 
it was for a long time the residence of the 
Dukes of Guelders. See the Cathedral, with 
tomb of Count Egmont. Tower, 330 ft. hrgh ; 
wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has a 
fine court-room. Emjnerich (Hotel Royal; 
Rheinischer Hof) is the first German town, a 
neat looking place of about 15,000 inhabitants. 



GfiiRMANY. DussELDORF. — Cologne. 245 



GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. 

Diisseldorf {Breidenhacher Hof; Royal; Park; 
Heck; Bomischer Kaiser), a city of 312,000 
inhab., is the principal art-centre on the Rhine. 
The Academy of Arts was founded in 1767 ; it 
occupies Renaissance building erected in 1879- 
1881 ; contains lecture-halls, studios, etc. Here, 
also, are the remains of the famous Gallery of 
Art, and many drawings, of all schools (open 
Sun., Wed., and Fri.. 11-1, free). Handsome 
Rhine Bridge, from which extends the fine Rhine 
Promenade; Hofgarten, next to Pempelfurter- 
garten (now Malkasten Club), haunts of Goethe 
and Herder. Ch. of St. Lam'bert contains the 
tombs of the last. Dukes of Cleve and Berg. St. 
Andreto's is very interesting. In the hall of the 
Realschule is a frieze by Bendemann (adm. 50 
pf.). In the Courts of Justice see Schadow's 
"Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory." Many fine mod- 
ern paintings in the Eunsthalle. See statues of 
Elector John William III., Cornelius, Emperor 
William I., Bismarck, and bronze group, repre- 
senting the Rhine, which stands in front of the 
Provinzial-Standehaus. Museum of Industrial 
Art will repay visit. Several exhibitions of pic- 
tures in the town ; fees, 50 pf. 

Cologne {Dom Hotel; Monopol; Kolner Hof ; 
Westminster; Savoy: Belgischer Hof; Harms; 
Minerva), the sixth town in the German Empire 
(510,000 inhab.), and an important garrison. 
Many of the streets in the older part of the city 



246 GERMANY. Cologne. 

are dark, narrow, and mediaeval. Many houses 
date from the 13th century. Cologne was 
founded by the Ubii, when Agrippa transferred 
them to the left bank of the Rhine ; and colonized 
by Roman veterans when Germanicus held com- 
mand, as Colonia Agrippina. It was the resi- 
dence of the legates of Lower Germany. Con- 
stantine the Great built a bridge here in 308, 
afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From 
the 5th century it was a part of the Frankish 
kingdom. Extensive Roman remains here. 

The Cathedral, the grandest Gothic building 
in the world, was begun in 1248. The choir was 
consecrated in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but 
about 1500 the work ceased, and in 1795 the 
French troops used the half-ruined church for 
a hay-magazine. Construction was resumed in 
1823, and $5,000,000 spent upon it between 1842 
and 1880, when it was consecrated, with im- 
I>osing ceremonies. Since that time nearly $2,- 
000,000 more has been spent on the building. 
The superb W. fagade and lofty portals are 
flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned by open 
spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were placed 
in the S. tower in 1447 ; and in 1874 a new 30- 
ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. 
A forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and 
aisles. The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 
201 ft. ; height of nave, 145 ft. There are 4 
aisles ; and the triple-aisled transepts extend to 
the imposing N. and S. portals. There are 56 
vast columns inside. The stained windows in 
the N. aisle date from 1508-9 ; those in the S. 
aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 
1848. The Choir contains 14th-century statues 
of the 12 Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls. 



GERMANY. Cologne. 247 

aacient stained windows, modern frescoes of 
angel-choirs, modern tapestries, and 7 wonderful 
chapels, with venerable tombs of the arch- 
bishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The re- 
liquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings con- 
tains the bones of the Magi, carried to Con- 
stantinople by the Empress Helena, thence to 
Milan, and presented by Barbarossa to Cologne's 
archbishop in 1164. The heart of Marie de 
M§dicis is buried here. The Library contains 
Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply in- 
teresting relics are in the Treasury and in the 
Archiepi'Scopal Museum, S. of the church (adm. 
9-6, 50 pf. Sun. and holidays, 10-2, 30 pf.). See 
inner and outer galleries of the choir. The build- 
ing is open all day, but walking about is not 
allowed during service. Adm. to choir and li- 
brary 1.50 mark. The Archieplscopal Museum, 
south of the Cathedral. 

Over the rly.-bridge are equestrian statues of 
Frederick William IV. and William I. W. of 
the Cathedral is the great Gothic Wallraf-Rich- 
artz Museum (open 9-5, 50 pf., free on Sun. and 
Wed.) with many hundred paintings, and very 
interesting Roman and medieval relics. In the 
adjacent Minorites' Ch., Duns Scotus is buried. 
In front of the church is the monument to 
Kolping, who was the manager of the labor 
unions. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. St. Gerden's 
Ch. (fee, 1 mk.), contains the bones of the The- 
ban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Dio- 
cletian. Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be 
seen in the choir. Curious crypt. In St. Ursula 
is the tomb of that unhappy princess, \vho, with 
her 11,000 virgin companions, was massacred at 
Cologne on her return from Rome. The ch. (5th 



248 GERMANY. Aix-la-Chapeixe. 

century ; restored) has a Gothic portal. You 
are shown the bones of the martyrs in all parts 
of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, 1§ mk.) is St. 
Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a 
majestic tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, 
said to have been given by Pope Leo. III. St. 
Maria im Capitol is an imposing Romanesque 
church dating from th* 11th century. ;8'^. Peter 
has an altar-piece by Rubens. St. Cecilia dates 
from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a pic- 
turesque choir. St. Cunibert (1248) has rich 
frescoes and glass. 

See the Giirzenieh, built for the holding of 
municipal celebrations and popular festivals 
(adm. 50 pf.) ; the Roman Tower; the house in 
which Marie de MSdicis died in exile and pov- 
erty; the Monwnent to Frederick William III., 
surrounded by statues of statesmen and generals 
who relieved the Rhine from French domina- 
tion; and the bronze statue of Bismarck. The 
Rathhaus (adm. 50 pf.), dating from the 13th 
century, has the Lion's Court, and the quaint 
hall in which the first Diet of the Hanseatic 
League was held. See Botanic and Zoological 
Gardens, and the many "original and only" shops 
where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold. 

Aix-la-Chapelle (Hotel Grand Monarque: 
Nuellens; De VEmpereur; Union; Dilren), the 
Aachen of the Germans and the Aquisgranum 
of the Romans. This was the favorite residence 
of Charlemagne, and here he died in 814. Aix 
was at one time the capital of all the country 
N. of the Alps. 37 German emperors were 
crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets 
were held here. The modern town is handsome, 
with the characteristics of a watering-place. The 



GERMANY. Aix-la-Chapelle. 249 

warm Sulphur Springs were renowned in the 
Roman era, and wonderful cures are still ef- 
fected by them. The most important is the 
Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrunnen crowds as- 
semble daily in summer to drink the waters. 
The Kurhmis has a superb concert-hall (fee, 
50 pf.). In the Ma/rJcet-place is a fountain, with 
statue of Charlemagne. The great Cathedral Is 
in two sections; the quaint-roofed Byzantine 
octagon (in the style of San Vitale, at Ravenna), 
built by Charlemagne, 796-804, and consecrated 
by Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, in the 
best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon con- 
tains many fine columns, brought from Rome 
and Ravenna ; bronze doors, cast in 804 ; and the 
pulpit, rich in gold and gems, presented by 
Henry II. See the stained windows, designed 
by Cornelius; and the 14th-century statues. The 
tomb of Charlemagne was opened by Otho III. 
in 1000 ; and by Barbarossa in 1165 when the body 
was removed from the marble throne on which 
it was seated, and placed in a Parian sarcoph- 
agus. The throne (afterwards used in the coro- 
nation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are now 
in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are 
enshrined in the Treasury, where are also the 
girdles of Christ and Mary, a piece of the True 
Cross, etc. (open daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 marks for 1-3 
persons. Notice the old Flemish paintings inside 
of the cabinets. Some of the holy treasures, 
such as the swaddling-clothes of the infant 
Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years. 

The Rathhaus was built out of the debris of 
the palace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). 
The Hall of the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble fres- 
cos. The Wairiors' Monument commemorates 



250 GERMANY. Bonn. 

the soldiers slain in 1866 and 1870-71. The 
Siiei^mondt Museum (10-1, 50 pf., free Sun. and 
Wed. ; Mon. open only to strangers, 1 mark ) has 
some good pictures. 

Up the Rhine by Steamer. 

The journey can be made in 1 day from 
Cologne to Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, 
stopping at Coblence. There is a rly. on either 
bank, but the steamboat is preferable. If, how- 
ever, you wish to go from Cologne to Frankfort 
by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. Through tickets 
by boat allow stopping off, but be careful to re- 
sume the journey by the boats of the same com- 
pany. 

Bonn {Goldener Stern; Royal; Rhei/neck; Rote 
Kanne) has a beautiful location. Just beyond, 
the banks become bold and precipitous, and the 
beauties of the famous stream begin. Bonn was 
the Gastra Bonnensia of Tacitus, a great Roman 
fortress. It has suffered terrible sieges. The 
University occupies the old castle, built in 1717- 
30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. long. It 
has a library of 350,000 vols. ; museums of Ro- 
man and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts (75 
pf. each; catalogues for sale). See bronze statue 
of Beethoven in the Munsterplatz. The Beethoven 
Museum (adm. 1 M., Sun. and Wed. 50 pf.) is in 
the house where Beethoven was born in 1770. 
The Cathedral, said to have been founded by St. 
Helena, the mother of Constantine, is a cruci- 
form basilica, with two choirs and a high octag- 
onal tower. Bronze statue of the Empress 
Helena inside. The Poppelsdorfer Schloss, 
reached by a quadruple avenue of horse-chest- 



GERMANY. Koningswintee. 251 

nuts i M. long, contains a very large natural- 
history collection (9-1, adm. 30 pf., free on 
Sun. ) . Chemical Laboratory near by. The Ana- 
tomie, a noble edifice, finished in 1872, is not far 
off. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuzberg, 400 
ft. high, on which is a ch. containing the Holy 
Staircase, built in imitation of that at Rome, 
and to be mounted on the knees only. The Goh- 
lenzerstrasse is very handsome. The Provincial 
Museum (10-1, adm. 50 pf., free Sun., Tues., and 
Thurs. ) , containing an interesting collection, and 
the House of Arndt are interesting. On the Alte 
Zoll is the Monument to Arndt. In the ceme- 
tery are buried Niebuhr the historian, Schlegel, 
Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Von Bunsen. The 
Rhine Bridge crossing to Beuel on the east bank 
is the most graceful of all the bridges on the 
river ; it has a length of 1415 ft. with a central 
span of 615 ft. It is decorated with a number 
of humorous figures. 

Konigswinter (Europdischer Hof; Mattern; 
Diisseldorfer H}3f; Kolner Hof; Lommerz- 
hehn), on the E, bank of the Rhine, is the 
point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The 
Drachenfels (1066 ft. high) may be ascended 
donkey back, in carriages, or by cog-wheel 
railway. Half-way up is the far-viewing tower 
on the Hirschherg. To the W. is the Monu- 
ment in memory of the events of 1813- 
15. The Castle stands near the Terrace (where 
there is a good hotel). It was built about 1100 
by the first archbishop of Cologne, and takes its 
name from a dragon slain there by Siegfried, 
the Niebelungen hero. The red wine made from 
its vineyards is called Dragon's Blood. The 
castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, 



252 GERMANY. Rolandseck. 

after a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Su- 
perb view of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs be- 
hind Remagen, Oberwinter, the ruins of Roland- 
seck, Bonn, and Cologne. See the cavern .where 
the fabled dragon had his abode. An excursion 
may be made to the OeWerg, the view from 
which is the most extensive in the Rhineland. 
Thence it is 11 hr. to HeisterlacJi, an old Cis- 
tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is 
left of the magnificent ch., built about 1200. 
From the Oelberg, the Ldwenhurg (1,504 ft.), a 
castle where the Elector of Cologne had inter- 
views with Melancthon before becoming a Pro- 
testant, may be reached. Fine view. Return 
from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f hr. by 
the PetersJ)erg, whence good view. Konigswinter 
is near most charming scenery. 

The boat touches at Rolandseck {Hdtel Ro- 
landseck; Bellevue), on the west bank, ^ 
hour above Konigswinter. From restaurant at 
the railway station is a fine view of the Seven 
Mts., and the Rhine to Remagen. Rolandseck is 
a very popular summer-resort. Ruined Castle 
stands on a basalt rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. 
It was founded by Roland, the Paladin of 
Charlemagne, who died at Roncesvalles. The 
island of Nonnenwerth, where stands the con- 
vent in which the beautiful Hildegarde is said 
to have taken the veil when she heard that Ro- 
land had perished in Spain, may be reached by 
a small boat (return-fare, 1 M.). This event 
The convent was suppressed in 1802, reconsecrat- 
ed in 1845, and closed again in 1876. It is now a 
girls' school. See Bulwer's Pilgrims of the Rhine, 
and Schiller's ballad of Ritter Toggenhurg. 
RhevnbreitMch (B. bank) is a large town, with 



GERMANY. Remagen. — LiNZ. 253 

towers, at the entrance of a valley filled with 
copper-mines. At TJnkel (E. bank) the clififs 
stand out into the bed of the stream, producing 
a rapid. The view from Oberwinter, on the W. 
bank, is very fine. Just above is 

Remagen (Fiirstenherg ; RJiem; Victoria), no- 
ticeable for its church on the Apollinarisberg (a 
hill to the N.), a pretty Gothic edifice with four 
towers, entirely modern, on the site of an old 
pilgrimage-shrine of the Middle Ages. It was 
built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne Cathedral, 
and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces of 
modern German art (open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. ; Sun., 
after 10; fee 30 pf.). The legend states that 
when the Archbishop of Cologne was descending 
the Rhine (in 1164) with the bones of the Magi 
and the head of St. Apollinaris, Bishop of Ra- 
venna, his boat was stopped here, by some mys- 
terious power, until the later was placed in the 
chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman 
town (Rigomagns), but lost its importance in 
the Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions 
thence, between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley 
of the Ahr, where 4,000,000 bots. of red wine are 
produced yearly. It is 7 M. to the Baths of 
Neuenahr, a charming watering-place, with warm 
alkali springs, used for lung and liver diseases. 
Ahrioeiler, a quaint little walled town, has fine 
view from Calvarienberg. Ruined castles and 
pretty villages abound. 

Opposite Remagen, over Ei'pel (E. bank) is a 
basaltic cliff, the Erpeler Lei, 642 ft. high. Lini 
(Weinstock) is an ancient town on the W. bank, 
with walls and pavements of basal, and a 13th- 
century Romanesque ch,, containing a triptych 
of the ancient Cologne school of art. The ad- 



254 GERMANY. Andeenach. 

jacent hills have interesting basalf-quarries, and 
crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic 
and Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels 
castle, above Linz, lately restored, has an an- 
cient round tower, and, in the Knights' Hall, a 
collection of armor. Visitors are admitted to 
the park daily, to the castle on Wednesdays. 
Rheineck (W. bank), the boundary between the 
upper and lower Rhenish districts, is a lofty 
Romanesque castle on the site (and with a 
tower) of a fortress of the 12th century. It may 
be visited from Brolil (* hr.), and has some 
fine paintings (fee, 50-7.5 pf.) and a superb view. 
It was sacked by the French in 1689 and by 
troops of Cologne in 1692. Farther up, near 
Brohl, is Hammerstein, a 10th-century castle, 
where Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, and 
which was held, during the Thirty Years' War. 
by Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrain- 
ers. In 1660 the Archbishop of Cologne de- 
stroyed this too powerful neighbor. Roman ruins 
4 miles to the east. 

Andernach {HackcnTyrnch ; Anker; Schdfer; 
GlocJce), on the W. bank, has narrow streets, 
ancient walls, a many-towered Romanesque ch. 
(1206), and a lofty watch-tower, built in 1414- 
68, and breached by French guns in 1688. It 
was one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; recaptured 
from the Alemanni by Julian in 339 ; a royal 
Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im- 
perial town later; stormed by Cologne troops in 
1496; and burned by the French in 1688. The deep 
moat and massive towers of the castle remain 
(see Longfellow's Hyperion). Tramway to the 
Benedictine Abbey of Laach, founded in 1093, 
with magnificent Romanesque ch. and cloisters. 



GERMANY. Coblenz. 255 

on the vasfcrater-lake of the Laacher See (6 M. 
around). 

The Rhine now flows through a defile, between 
rugged heights. Neuwied (Anker; Wilder Mann; 
Moravian) , on the E., has the palace and park 
of the Prince of Wied, and a community of 
austere Moravian Brethren with admirable 
schools and workshops. Monrepos is a chateau 
of the Prince, 870 ft. above the river, easily 
reached on foot; and at Altwied, about a mile 
and a half from Monrepos is the ruined medi- 
aeval castle of the counts of Wied. Weissen- 
thunn is opposite Neuwied, with a white watch- 
tower marking the boundaries of Treves and 
Cologne. Above is an obelisk to General Hoche, 
erected by a French army crossing the Rhine 
in 1797. Near Engers (E. bank) are fragments 
of Roman masonry, supposed to be parts of 
Julius Csesar's bridge across the Rhine (see 
Commentaries) . Miihlhofen (E. banlv) is 1^ M. 
from the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great 
modern chateau of Sayn, rich in art. Kessel- 
heim (W. bank) is near Schonbomlust, an old 
palace of the electors of Treves and of the 
exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth island, where 
Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is an old 
convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- 
rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are en- 
larged and strengthened, before drifting Hol- 
landward. The high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein 
now comes into view, and the palace of the 
Prussian King. 

Coblenz {Riesen; Monopol ; Anker; Palast; 
8cheid), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40.000 
inhab.) is at the confluence of the Rhine and 
Moselle, whence the Romans called it Con flu- 



256 GERMANY. Ems. 

entia. It is a powerful fortress,' with heights 
crossed with enormous fortifications. The Pal- 
ace was built by the last Elector of Treves, and 
contains interesting Electoral Hall and Festival 
Hall, with portraits, tapestries, etc. (10-12, 2-6, 
fee, 25 pf.). The Mainzer-Thor and others of 
the city gates are worthy of notice. St. Castor 
is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded in 
836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historic 
Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 
arches) dates from 1344. Monument of Em- 
peror William I. at junction of Rhine and Mo- 
selle. ArcJiiepiscopal Palace (now a factory) 
dates from 1276 ; the Liehfrauenkirche, from the 
13th century ; the Merchants' Hall, from 1480. 
The Rhine Promenade is a beautiful waterside 
park, 1^ miles long; there is a statue here of 
von Schenkendorf, a German poet, and also a 
column commemorating the laying out of the 
promenade. The KiUikopf, 1,190 ft. high, com- 
mands a grand view over the Rhine and Mo- 
selle valleys, and the Rittersturz, about 500 ft. 
high, laid out as a park, commands a fine view. 
The Kartause is a fortified hill to the west. 
Across the Rhine is Ehrenbreitstein, "Honor's 
Broad Stone" (open daily; 50 pf.), "The Gib- 
raltar of the Rhine," a vast fortress on a pre- 
cipitous rock, 387 ft. above the river, and com- 
manding a wonderful view. It was granted by 
King Dagobert to the archbishops of Treves in 
636, and has been beleaguered many times, but 
yielded only twice. The French destroyed the 
works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt, 1816- 
26, at a cost of $6,000,000. 

It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride or 7 M. walk from Ehren- 
breitstein to Ems {Hotel d'Angleterre; Vier 



GERMANY. Tkeves 257 

Tiirmer; Loive; Quatre Saisons; Romer'bad ; Villa 
Bella Riva), a little town on the Lahn, amid 
wooded heights, a spa, annually visited by 12,- 
000 health-seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). 
The waters (saline and alkaline) are beneficial 
in pulmonary and other affections, and have 
been used since 1354. The Kurhaus and Kur- 
saal are the centre of the exotic life, and stand 
amid pleasant gardens. 

From Coblenz a pleasant excursion may be 
made by steamer up the Moselle, llli M. in 1^ 
days, passing the night at Trarbach, and reach- 
ing Treves in the afternoon. Voyage back to 
Coblence, 12 hrs. Rly. to Treves in 2^ hrs. (69^ 
M. The valley of the Moselle is very beautiful, 
and interesting historically. Over Cohern is 
a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel ; over Broden- 
pach the splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, 
"two fine castles and a monastery ; oA^er Trarhach, 
the ancient Grafin'burg ; and near Neiimagen, 
Roman ruins. 

Treves {Hotel de Treves; Porta Nigi'a; R6- 
I mertor ; Post; Reichshof), on the Moselle, was 
I the. capital of the Treviri ; then the Augusta Tre- 
I virorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul, 
1 and Rome's rival in art and commerce. This old- 
i; est city of Germany has 50,000 inhab. ; although 
I its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Con- 
j stantine delivered thousands of Franks to be 
I torn by wild beasts (a.d. 306), accommodates 30,- 
OOO spectators. The vast ruins of the Roman 
Baths were connected with the Palace of the Em- 
perors. The Porta Nigra is a huge Roman gate- 
way of blackened sandstone, 118 ft. long and 95 
ft. high. The ruins of the Roman Palace (adm. 
50 pf.) are interesting. The Cathedral dates 



258 GERMANY. Capellan. 

from 550, — a vast structure, under which repose 
the archbishops and electors of Treves. Here 
are preserved Christ's seamless robe, a nail 
from the Cross, a fragment of the Crown of 
Thorns. The interior was renovated in 1907. 
Cloisters run thence to the Liebfrauenkirche, a 
beautiful circular ch. (1243). The Basilica, 
built before Constantine, successively a Roman 
court-house, exchange, imperial governors' pal- 
ace, bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. 
The Town Library contains valuable MSS. and 
some new printed books. The Provincial 
Museum (11-1, 50 pf., Sun, and Wed. free) con- 
tains objects of art, pictures, and a very inter- 
esting collection of Roman antiquities. Rly. 
from Treves to Tkionville and Luxembourg (J 
hr.). 

Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen 
(Stolzenfels; BeUevue) is reached (W. bank)". 
over which rises the royal castle of Stolzenfcls 
(10-12, 2-7, 25 pf.) 420 ft. above the Rhine, with 
a magnificent view. It was built in 1250 by the 
Archbishop of Treves, and inhabited by his suc- 
cessors. The French destroyed it in 1688; and 
since 1823 it has been restored by the Prussian 
King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and 
Knights' Hall, many rare old pictures and curios- 
ities. 

Niederlahnstein (Douqu^) and Oberlahnstein 
{Lahneck; Breitenhach) are on either side of the 
Lahn River, opposite Capellen (ferry every J 
hr., 10-20 pf.). near the lately restored castle of 
Lahneck, Above Capellen is Kbnigsstuhl, where 
the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open 
air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. 
The Emperor Charles IV. built a castle here in 



GERMANY. Boppaed. 259 

1376. It had fallen in ruins but was restored in 
1843. Farther up is Rhens (W.), with walls and 
a moat constructed by the Archbishop of Cologne 
in 1870. Brauhach (E. bank) is under Marks- 
burg (adm. 40 pf.), an imposing castle 492 ft. 
above the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still 
uninjured. The tower was raised a number of 
feet in 1905. Old Swedish and French cannon 
and armor here. 

Boppard {Spiegel; Bellevue und RJiein; Reh- 
stock ; Lange), on the W. bank, was a Celtic 
town ; fortified by the Romans, and named Bodo- 
hriga; headquarters of the 13th Legion: seat of 
a lodge of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial 
town. The inner wall is Roman, the outer wall 
mediaeval ; and the two churches date from 1200 
and 1500. The high-placed Marienberg, formerly 
a Benedictine nunnery, is now a water-cure. 
The situation is lovely, in a broad bend of the 
Rhine, above which the mts. recede, giving place 
to rich meadows and green fields. Opposite 
pretty Salzig, famous for cherries and for saline 
i baths, employed in catarrhal troubles, are twin 
rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of 
SteiTen'berg and Lleheustein, to which attaches 
the legend of Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. 
Over Wellmiclb (E.) rises the castle of Tliurn- 
hei-g, finished in 1363, and then derisively called 
The Mouse by the lords of the Cat at St. Goars- 
hausen. 

The handsome old town of St. Goar (Sehnei- 
der : RJteinfels), founded in 570, is overlooked by 
the grandest ruin on the river, the famous Rhein- 
fels, dating from 1245; besieged by 26 Rhenish 
towns in 1255 ; held by the French, 175&-63, 
1794-97, and blown up by them ; and now royal 

1 



260 GERMANY. Oberwesel. — Bacharach. 

property. St. Goarshausen (steam-ferry to St. 
Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built 
in 1393, and blown up by the French in 1806. 
Many charming excursions from either of these 
towns. The noble and well-preserved ruin of 
Reichenberg castle (1280) is 3 M. E. (fee 1 
mark). The picturesque Swiss Valley is back 
of St. Goarshausen. Above is the Lurlei rock, 
a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools 
in the deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, 
and the fabled seat of a siren who lured sailors 
to death. Farther up are the Seven Virgins' 
rocks, with their grim legend. 

Oberwesel {Goldener Pfropfenzieher) , on the 
W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich in wine and 
scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the gray 
old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 
15th-century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old 
carvings and pictures, and the Chapel on the 
riverward wall, commemorating a terrible deed 
in 1286. Above all, Schonburg, the lofty castle, 
the birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, who lies 
in Westminster Abbey. This many-towered 
cradle of a race of warriors was demolished by 
Louis XIV.'s troops in 1689. Caub (E.), abound- 
ing in wine (see statue of Bliicher), is under the 
castle of Gutenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed 
in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal for- 
tress in the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis 
of Bavaria about the year 1200. Thence he 
used to swoop down upon passing vessels, and 
exact tribute. Hereabouts, Bliicher's and York's 
Prussian and Russian armies crossed the Rhine, 
Jan. 1, 1814. 

Bacharach {Hotel Herhrecht ; Altes Haus: 
Bastian) on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its 



GERMANY. Assmannshausen. 261 

wines, celebrated in Longfellow's Golden Le- 
gend, still entitle it to the name Ara Bacchi 
(altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- Ages men 
gave it. A fire in 1872 destroyed many rare old 
houses ; but the gray walls, descending from Stahl- 
eek, still envelop the town ; and the beautiful 
Gothic ruin of St. Werner's CTi., and stately 
Romanesque St. Peter's Church (now restored), 
still stand fast. A pleasant promenade runs 
along the river. Overhead is Stahleck castle, 
the home of the Counts Palatine until 1265, be- 
sieged 8 times by the French bet^^veen 1620 and 
1640, and blown up in 1689. Fiirstenberg, an- 
other noble ruin, is near by. The robber-knights 
fired thence on the ship in which Adolph of Nas- 
sau was descending to Aix-la-Chapelle, to be 
crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion up the nar- 
row Steeg valley ; also to Kreuznach. 

Lorch (Krone), on E. bk., the Roman Laurea- 
cum, has a Flamboyant 12th-century ch., with 
quaint monuments and fine bells. Near by, over 
the DeviVs Ladder cliff, is castle. Nollingen 
Niederheiml)ach (W. banli is under Hoh)ieck, 
or Heim'burg castle. Above is Sooneck castle, 
built in 1015 by the Archbishop of Mayence ; and 
Falkenburg, or the Reichenstein, destroyed as a 
robbers' nest by the Rhenish towns (1251), and 
again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who hung its 
knights from the windows. Rheinstein, farther 
up (W. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- 
fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Fred- 
erick of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance. 
I mk.). 

Assmannshausen {Hotel Krone; Anker ; Rhein ; 
Park; Reutershan) on the E., exports aromatic 
red wine all over the world. Above is the rapid of 



262 GERMANY. Bingen. 

the Bmger Loch, where the raftsmen have hard 
work, although the dangerous rocks which for- 
merly gave much trouble have been removed. 
Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high tower, built in 
1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, damaged 
by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the 
French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes 
which produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite 
Ehrenfels, on quartz ledges in the stream, is 
the Mouse Tower, where, as legend tells, Arch- 
bishop Hatto of Mayence was devoured alive by 
mice because he caused a crowd of famine- 
stricken peasants to be burned to death, compar- 
ing them to corn-destroying mice. 

Bingen (Hotel Victoria: Weisses Ross; StarJc- 
cnhurger Hof ; Distel; Godel; DeutscJies Haus), 
under the heights at the mouth of the Nahe, 
amid charming scenery, where the Rhine bends 
around the Niederwald, on which is the new 
National Monument, with huge bronze statues, 
etc., and from which is a ravishing view. On 
the Drususherg are the ruins of Klopp, once a 
Roman castle, destroyed by the French in 1689. 
The Rochusberg (341 ft. high) overlooks the 
beautiful Rheingau. Rly. from Riidesheim to 
Wiesbaden, Frankfort, Ems, and Nassau; and 
from Bingerbriick to Mayence, Coblenz, Cologne, 
and Kreuznach (Oranieuhof ; Kurhaus; Hotel 
du Nord; Englischer Hof), a prettily situated 
watering-place, where 6^,000 persons go yearly 
for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles. 

From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Frank- 
fort-Paris route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs., passing 
Kreuznach; Ohersteiih a beautiful village on the 
Nahe, devoted to polishing agates ; Neiinlcirchen ; 
and Saar'briicken, 3 M. N. of the battle-ground of 



GERMANY. Rudesheim. — Johannisb'eg. 263 

Spicheren (1870). Metz {G^^and Hotel; Royal; 
Post; Elsdsser Hof; de Metz) is a city of 75,000 
inhab., on the Moselle, once the capital of the 
kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France in 
1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a 
prolonged siege, and several terrible battles near 
Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour. Since then the vic- 
tors have greatly extended the vast fortress. 
\Usit interesting E. side of town. The Cathedral 
(10.30-11 and 3-5) is a magnificent 13th-century 
Gothic ch., with a tower 387 ft. high, and with 
modern portals adorned with many sculptures, 
one of them of the Prophet Daniel having the 
face of Emperor William II. In front is a 
statue of Louis XIV.'s Marshal Fabert. Statues 
of Marshal Ney and Emp. William I. on Espla- 
nade near Palace of Justice. The Municipal 
Museum (11-1, 2-4, Sun. and Wed. free) con- 
tains a collection of natural history objects, and 
some medi£eval and Roman antiquities. 

Riidesheim {Rheinstein; Bellevue; Darm- 
stddter Hof; Jung), op. Bingen, has rich wines, 
far-viewing heights, wild legends, and a Roman 
fortress. Farther up is GeisenJieim, with mon- 
asteries and vineyards. On the heights is 
Johannisberg, where, on the site of a Benedictine 
convent of 1106, the Abbot of Fulda built a 
castle, afterward granted to Prince Metternich. 
and now amid the best vineyard on the Rhine, 
and commanding a superb view. Beautiful 
walks from Rudesheim hence, or to EltviUe. 
The river scenery above Bingen is less interest- 
ing, and many travellers go hence to Mayence 
by rail ( f hr. ; by steamer, 2h hrs. ) . Above 
Geisenheim, well in-shore on the r., is Ingelheim, 
the site of Charlemagne's great palace. Elt- 



264 GERMANY. Mayence. 

ville (on the W.) has fine villas and venerable 
ruins, and is 4 M. from the famous warm baths 
of Schlangenhad. From Bieljrich, rly, to Wies- 
baden, Above is Petersau, where Louis the 
Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840: 

Mayence or Mainz {Hotel de Hollande; d'An- 
gletetre; dii Rhin ; Pfalzer; Germania), is a city 
of 110,000 inhab., occupying a strategic position, 
commanding the confluence of the Rhine and 
Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the Roman 
Mogontiacum, fortified by Drusus (b.c. 14), and 
headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The 
Citadel, on their camp-ground, has a monument 
erected by his soldiers to Drusus, who died here. 
Pope Zacharias (in 751) made St. Boniface, the 
English missionary, Archbishop of Maj-ence (the 
first German bishopric) ; and after 1250 "Golden 
Mayence" originated and headed the league of 
100 Rhenish towns. In 1462 Archbishop Adolph 
of Nassau killed the foremost citizens, and 
Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. 
The French republicans took it in 1792, and it 
was a French town for 17 years. In 1814 it 
became Hessian, The Cathedral (until 11.30, 
3-6) begun in 978, and 6 times burned and re- 
stored, is a vast structure, with domes and round 
towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass 
gates (made in 1135), The interior is very 
grand, richly frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on 
E. (1175) and W. (1239), and 56 columns up- 
holding the vaulting. There are scores of fine 
old monuments, including one to Fastrada, 
Charlemagne's wife. The restored Cloisters, 
built in 1412, are the finest in W. Germany, and 
contain Schwanthaler's monument to the pious 
minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318), 



GERMANY. Mayence. 265 

erected by tbe women of Mayence in 1842. Thor- 
waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, tbe inventor of 
printing, stands near tbe Catbedral ; and tbe 
bouse in wbicb be was born is not far off. St. 
Stephen's Ch. (1257-1318) and cloisters are on 
bigb ground, and tbe tower overlooks Mayence. 
Tbe Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and used by 
tbe Frencb for storing bay, is in tbe N. E. 
quarter, and contains a ricb museum (10-1, 
sometimes also 2-5 ; 50 pf., Sun. and Wed. free) 
of Roman-Germanic relics, a library of 200,(X)0 
vols., togetber witb tbe G-utenderg Museum of 
MSS. and works relating to printing, and a Pic- 
ture-Gallery of 9 rooms, witb many fine old 
paintings (Titian, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). Tbe 
Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, was a Lodge of 
tbe Teutonic Order,, and bas an arsenal at- 
tached. Tbere are cbarming walks along 
tbe river in tbe Esplanade, and in tbe Neue An- 
lage Park (restaurant). An iron bridge crosses 
tbe Rbine from tbe Esplanade opposite tbe ar- 
senal to Castel, a small but strongly fortified 
suburb. Here stood once a Roman bridge. 

A Run Through North Germany. 

With Frankfort and Wieshaden. 

Tbe traveller sbould now determine wbetber 
to basten on to Switzerland, or (wbicb is mucb 
better) spend a few days in Germany, going from 
Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and Berlin ; 
and tbence down to Dresden, Prague, and 
Vienna; returning to tbe Rbineland by Nurem- 
berg, Municb, and Heidelberg. Tourists going 
direct to Switzerland may pass S. from Mayence, 



266 GERMANY. Frankfort-on-Main. 

by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10-14 hrs., 
or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, 
and the Black Forest. 

From Mayence it is f hr. by rly. to the Prus- 
sian city of Frankfort-on-the-Main {Frankfurter 
Hot; Schwann; Union; d'Angleterre; Carlton; 
Bristol; Monopol; Savoy; Deutscher Kaiser), 
which has 372,000 inhab., and stands on a 
mountain-girdled plain. Charlemagne held a 
council here in 794 and later sovereigns granted 
high privileges. From 1356 to 1806 this was the 
place of election for the German emperors (be- 
ginning with Barbarossa). many of whom were 
crowned Here. It was a free city from 1814 to 
1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a 
handsome and agreeable place, with good so- 
ciety and vast wealth. The ancient Romer, or 
Town Hall, contains the Emperors' Hall, and the 
room in which the electors met to choose the 
emperors. In front, the coronation festivals 
were given. Up to 1800 no Jews were allowed 
on this square, ^ee Cathedral (before 11.30 and 
after 2), dating from 1238. Historical Museum 
in Archives building and restored Leinwandhaus 
(10-3, 50 pf., Sun., Tues., Wed., Fri. free). The 
bridge over Main (leading to Sachsenhausen) , 
built 1342, has a statue of Charlemagne. The 
Saalhof has a chapel of the Carlovingian kings. 
The Exchange is a very handsome modern build- 
ing. The 13th-century chs. of St. Leonliard and 
St. Nicholas are interesting. The house in which 
Goethe was born, and where he wrote Wefther, 
is public proper tj^ His statue (w^ith bas-reliefs) 
by Schwanthaler is near the RossmarJct square; 
and there is another in the Town Library (150,- 
000 vols.). There is a bust of Lessing in front 



GERMANY. Hombueg. 267 

of the upper Main bridge, and one of Schopen- 
hauer near the Rechnei-Graben. Schopen- 
hauer's house is in Borne Strasse, formerly the 
Judengasse. Bethmann's Museum contains Dan- 
neck er's Ariadne, etc. (open 10-1, 3-5, 50-75 
pf., free on Sun.). The Museum of Art and In- 
dustry (10-1, 50 pf., Sun. and Wed. free) is well 
worth a visit if time permits. The Stddel Art 
Institute (11-1, daily, free; afternoons (ex. 
Thursday) 1 mark), in the suburb of Sachsen- 
hausen on the opposite side of the Main, contains 
a valuable collection of sculptures, paintings, and 
drawings. The Municipal Gallery, near the Sta- 
del Art Institute, and open at the same hours, 
contains sculptures and pictures by modern 
Frankfort artists. The Zeil and the Kaiser 
Strasse are the most brilliant streets in Frank- 
fort. See Palm Garden, sculpture in the railway 
station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum, 
and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, 
where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and 
where the Rothschilds originated, is being mod- 
ernized. Chains and gates formerly closed the 
streets at evening and on Sundays, and no Jew 
was allowed outside. 

From Frankfort it is f hr. by rly. to Homburg 
(Gt'and Hotel; Hotel da Pare; Augusta; Vic- 
toria; Bellevue; Adler; Kaiserhof), a celebrated 
watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron and 
saline springs in the superb gardens of the Kur- 
haus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons). 
The Kurpark has fine walks and many mineral 
springs. See the castle of the Landgraves. If M. 
N. on the mts. is a massive Roman fort, built by 
Germanicus, and a remnant of the wall, 150 M. 
long, which protected the Rhineland. 



268 GERMANY. Wiesbaden. 

From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. to 
Wiesbaden {Islassauer Hof ; Vier Jahreszeiten; 
Palast; Kaiserhof ; Metropole; du Pare; Tamius; 
Grilner Wald), in the lovely valley of the Salz- 
bach, on the vine and grove-clad S. W. spurs of 
the Taunus Mts. 200,000 visitors annually par- 
take of the warm saline waters, beneficial in 
rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions these 
fontes calidi; and the camps of the 14th and 22nd 
Legions were near by. The air is very healthy, 
and the town pretty. Back of the handsome Kur- 
saal is an extensive park, the favorite resort of 
visitors. See the 2 palaces, the museum, and pic- 
ture-gallery, the library, the Government build- 
ings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with its col- 
ossal statues. The Heidenmauer, N. W. of the 
town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful 
walks to Iserothal, Platte, and other environs. 
Frankfort to Hanover, Ha^nburg, and Bremen. 

From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse 
(5-8 hrs.), by high-walled Friedherg ; the mineral 
springs of Nauheim, used in the treatment of 
heart disease; the rly. junction of Giessen; and 
historic Marburg, with its splendid chs. and 
castle ; to Cassel (Nord; Royal; Schirmer; Konig 
von Preussen) , the beautiful old Hessian capital 
(150,000 inhab.), with its electoral palaces and 
vast Museum Friedericianum (10-1 Thurs., 3-5 
Tues. and Wed. free), containing a library of 
200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, 
ivories, etc. In the Belle vug castle is a gallery 
of several hundred fine old paintings. The Isiat- 
ural History Museum (Mon.. Thurs., 10-1 ; Tues., 
Sat., 3-5 free) contains a fine herbarium and a 
natural history collection. In the Picture Gallery 
( 10-1, Mon., Thurs. 3-5, free ; at other times 50 pf . ) 



GERMANY. Hanover. — Brunswick. 269 

are to be- seen a number of fine ancient and mod- 
ern paintings, especially of the Flemish and Ital- 
ian schools. The brothers Grimm lived in Cas- 
sel, their home being No. 24 Wildemannsgasse. 
Wilhelmshohe, 4 M. distant, is a sumptuous pal- 
ace, in a park famous for its fountains and cas- 
cades. Here Napoleon III. was imprisoned in 
1870-71. 

From Cassel it is 4-5 hrs., by Gottingen, fam- 
ous for its university, to Hanover {Royal; Bris- 
tol; Kasten's; Bornemami's), a handsome city of 
250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and 
since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the 
palaces of the Hanoverian kings ; the Royal Lib- 
rary, of 170,000 vols.; the Rathaus; the hand- 
some Theatre; the ^eio Provincial Musemn, in- 
corporating the Guelph Museum and the Cumber- 
land Gallery, and the Eestner Museum of Egyp- 
tian, Greek, and Etruscan antiquities ; and numer- 
ous statues and monuments. N. W. is the impos- 
ing Palace of the Guelphs; also, Herrenhausen, 
the suburban palace and park of the dethroned 
dynasty. Hanover is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on 
the route to Berlin; and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, 
via Brunswick and Madgeburg. Brunswick {Mon- 
opol; Deutsches Hans; Eaiserhof; Schracler's) 
the residence of the Duke of Brunswick, 135,000 
inhab., has a mediaeval air, with its ancient 
Gothic Town Hall ; St. Martin's Ch., rich in carv- 
ings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry 
the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument 
(1166) ; etc. The splendid modern Ducal Palace 
is near the Ducal Museum, in which are 900 pic- 
tures, and countless other relics and curios. See 
also the Burg Dankwarderodc, the Briidern- 
Kirche, the Alstadt-Rathaus, the Victary Monu- 



270 GERMANY. Hamburg. 

ment, and the Theatre. The fortifications have 
been replaced by promenades and gardens. Madge- 
burg {Central Hotel; Magdehurger Hof; Contin- 
ental) on the Elbe, has 240,000 inhab. The Cathe- 
dral, dating from the 13th century, is justly cele- 
brated for its grandeur and beauty. See the 
Monument of Otho /., erected in the latter part 
•of the 13th century, the Kaiser Friedrich Museum 
of Arts and Crafts, the Gruson Conservatories, in 
the Friedrich-Wilhelm's Garten. 

From Hanover it is 112 M. (4-5 hrs.) by Liine- 
hurg, with its ancient houses and chs., to Ham- 
burg {Hamhurger Hof; Esplanade; Palast; Vier 
Jahreszeiten; Kronprinz ; St7'eifs; Moser's), 860,- 
000 inhab., ranking next after London among the 
important seaports of Europe. It is on the lower 
Elbe, and is the chief of the three Hauseatic 
towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), 
and Louis the Pious an archbishopric; but the 
city is now all modern. There are vast and 
crowded quays, shipyards, rlys., docks, a busy 
Exchange, a Tow^n Library (250,000 vols.), mu- 
seums, monuments, and a good art gallery. The 
Binnen-Alster is a charming water-park, 1 M. 
around, surrounded by quays and promenades, 
lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses and 
hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and 
groups of swans. It connects by a narrow strait, 
spanned by the Lombard's Briicke, v>ith the 
Aussen-Alster, a still larger basin of water with 
handsome villas on its banks. See the Prince Bis- 
marck Monument, the fine Zoological Garden, the 
Rathaus, the KunsthaUc, the Galtt i:. SVchcr, and 
the Museum of Industrial Art. Tr? ins carry pas- 
sengers to and from Cuxhaven the home port of 



GERMANY. Bremen. 271 

the New York steamers of the Hamburg-Amer- 
ican Line. 

Adjoining Hamburg is Altona {Kalserhof) , 
near which is Stellingen, where is Karl Hagen- 
becJc's Zoological Garden (8-4. 50 pf., Wed. 1 
mark) in which an attempt is made to reproduce 
for the animals as nearly as may be the sur- 
roundings of their original homes. 

From Hamburg, train runs S. W., 76 M, (2^ 
hrs), across a poor flat country, to Bremen {Cen- 
tral: Hill man's: cle VEurope; Siedenhurg; du 
Nord), a great Hanseatic commercial town, on 
the Weser River, with 215,000 inh. See the richly 
decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed Ratlis- 
Jceller, famous for wines ; the 11th-century Ro- 
manesque Cathedral; the KunstliaUe, with pic- 
tures; the splendid new Gothic Exchange; the 
colossal Roland statue (1412), and the Promen- 
ades. 

Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin. 

This route passes through Fulda, an ancient 
ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. reaches 
Eisenach {Cirossherzog von Sachsen; Fursten- 
hof;; Kalserhof) , the quiet town where Luther 
went to school. Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty 
Romanesque castle, founded in 1070. and lately 
restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was 
hidden (1521-22), and many relics of his sojourn 
are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital 
of Meiningen, is Coburg (BaJinols-HOtcl), a 
hands'ome Franconian city, with a remarkable 
castle. 

On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof). 
a pleasant ducal city, with 37,000 inhab. In and 
near the great Friedenstein Palace are remark- 
able collections of antiquities, coins, objects of 



272 GERMANY. Weimar.— Leipsic. 

art sculptures, engravings, a library of 200,000 
vols., and a famous picture-gallery. The Thurin- 
gian Forest lies around the Eisenach-Gotha rly. 
Erfurt (Erfurter Hof; Romischer Kaiser) is an 
ancient Prussian fortress, with 120,000 iuhab., a 
high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the Aiigustin- 
ian Monastery in which Luther became a monk 
in 1505. The river Gera and its branches trav- 
erse various parts of the city, and there are so 
many bridges and such picturesque life along the 
water that Erfurt has long been known as the 
"Venice of Germany." The public parks, on the 
banks of the river, are very charming. Farther 
on toward Berlin is 

Weimar {Ertprinz ; Russischer Hof; Elefant), 
capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an 
ancient town of 30,000 inhab. Goethe lived here 
56 years, until his death in 1832 ; and his collec- 
tions are shown in the Goethe Mii&eam occupy- 
ing the house in which the poet lived (open 11-4, 
1 mark). Schiller's house is open daily (50 pf.). 
Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. 
Statues of all these are in the town ; and frescos 
from their works adorn the handsome Grand- 
Ducal Palace. Their busts and many curiosities 
are in the Grand-Ducal Lihrary (270,000 vols.; 
open daily, 1 mark). The Museum (open April- 
Sept, 10-4, 50 pf., Sun.. Wed., free) has many 
curios and paintings. The Stadtkirche (1400^ 
has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of 
Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried in the 
cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Ber- 
lin is 

Leipsic (Kaiserhof ; Hauffe; Sedan; de Prusse; 
Uentschel), a city of 520,000 inhab., the centre of 
the German book-trade, the seat of high imperial 



GERMANY. Halle. 273 

tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are 
held yearly, drawing many traders even from 
Asia and the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to 
these fairs ; and the annual sales (largely of furs, 
leather, and cloths) exceed $50,000,000. These 
picturesque exchanges have been carried on for 
over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 80 
printing-offices here. The Museum has Thor- 
waldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collection 
of paintings and engravings, mostly modern 
(open Sun., Wed., Fri., free; Mon. 1 mark ; Tues., 
Thurs., Sat., A mk). The University, which 
was founded in 1409, has over 4,000 students. 
The University Library contains 550,000 vols, and 
6,000 MSS. See the Neiv Theatre, with beautiful 
Corinthian fagade; the Supreme Court Building; 
the Pleisse^iburg citadel ; the old houses in the 
Grimma'sche Strasse; Auerdach's Keller, where 
part of the scene of Goethe's Faust is laid; the 
house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was 
born; the Ethnographical Museum, etc. In four 
Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- 
trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, 
defeated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, 
and drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market 
Place is the War Monument by Siemering. 

On the Leipsic-Magdeburg-Hamburg rly. is 
Halle {Stadt Hamburg; Grand Hotel Berges; 
Ooldener Kugel), with 175,000 inhab., and a 
famous university (2,000 students). In the mar- 
ket-place is the ancient Rathhaus, the many-tow- 
ered Ch. of Our Lady (1530), a clock-tower 276 
ft. high, and a statue of Handel (born at Halle, 
1685). 



.214: GERMANY. Beklin. 

Berlin. 

(Adlon; Alexandra; Carlton; Eden; Elite; 
JKaiserhof; Bristol; Royal; Savoy; Palast; Cen- 
tral; Continental; Minerva; Rome; Monopol; 
Westminster; Esplanade), capital of Germany 
(3,000,000 inhabitants), is 3^ hrs. from Leipsic. 
on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Originally 
a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a 
Hanseatic town, it was notably improved by the 
Great Elector (1640-88), and by Frederick the 
Great and his predecessor (1713-86). Since the 
accession of William I. in 1861 the population 
has increased greatly, and the arts and trades 
have flourished remarkably. 

The best part of the city may be seen by walk- 
ing down the Unter den Linden, a broad avenue. 
1 M, long, with double rows of lime-trees, from 
the Brandenburg Gate to the Royal Palace. The 
Gate is an imitation of the Propylaea at Athens, 
crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. 
Outside is the Thiergartcii, inside, the Pariser- 
Platz, with the Bliicher Palace and ofla- 
cers' Club on the S., and the French Embassy 
on the N. There are several other embassies 
and palaces on the Linden, with various gov- 
ernment buildings. The Florentine palace of 
Count Redern is the first building on the S., and 
beyond are the residences of the Minister of 
Religion and Education and of the Russian Am- 
bassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the In- 
terior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, 
Kaiser-Gallerie. At the E. end is the bronze 
statue of Federick the Great, by Ranch, called 
the finest of its kind in Europe. The king is on 
horseback, in his coronation-robes ; and the lofty 



GERMANY. Berlin. 275 

pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of 
his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Pal- 
ace of William /., behind which is the Royal Li- 
brary (open 1-2), with 1,000,000 volumes and 
3u,000 MSS. N. is the Academy Building contain- 
ing the Academies of Art and of Science; also 
the University (9,000 students), once Prince 
Henry's palace, and partly enclosing gardens in 
which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine 
anatomical, mineral, and zoological collections 
here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern 
Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, 
and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera 
House, and St. Hedioig's CJi., an imitation of the 
Roman Pantheon. Farther E., on the Linden, 
at the r. is the Empress Frederick Palace; and 
at the 1. is the Royal Guards-House (military 
music in summer, 11-12), a copy of a Roman 
fortified gate. Back of this is the 8 inging- Acad- 
emy ; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal, 
with many rare trophies of war. Close by is 
the Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of 
statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten, a park 
in which stands an equestrian statue of Fred- 
erick William III. On one side is the Royal 
Palace, a vast double quadrangle, built since 
1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily, 10- 
1). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall, Red-Eagle 
Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet 
Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine 
modern battle-paintings). White Saloon (statues 
of the 12 Electors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster 
and gems, and splendidly frescoed. West of the 
Palace is the National Monument to Emperor 
William I. The magnificent new Cathedral must 
not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old 



276 GERMANY. Berlin. 

Museum, the finest building in the city, with a 
gi-and Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze 
groups, and richly frescoed halls (open daily, 
10-3). See the collections of antiquities; the 
sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Pic- 
ture Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the 
study of art history. The 'New Museum contains 
Kaulbach's famous mural paintings, the Egyp- 
tian museum, an immense collection of casts, 12 
cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of ob- 
jects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a 
Renaissance fagade to the E. ; and opposite is 
the new Corinthian temple of the National Gal- 
lery (open daily, 11-3), which contains a mag- 
nificent and world-renowned collection of mod- 
ern paintings. 

The Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of 
Berlin, and the streets in this section are inter- 
esting. The Theatre is a classic structure, on 
the Schiller-Platz, with several fine bronze 
groups ; in front, a noble statue of Schiller. The 
Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces ; and in 
WUhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick 
the Great's generals. At the west end of the 
busy Leipziger-Strasse are the halls of the Prus- 
sian Diet, the offices of the ministers of War and 
Navy, and of the Postmaster-General ; adjoining 
the latter is the interesting Post-Offlce Museum. 
Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- 
Platz, and near this on Kouiggratzer-Strasse cor- 
ner of Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is the Ethnographi- 
cal Museum, (10-3), next to which is the Art In- 
dustrial Museum (10-3). Belle Alliance Platz 
contains lofty granite column of Peace (1840). 
surrounded by splendid marble groups. 



GERMANY. Bekliiv. 277 

At the E. end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spit- 
tei-Markt. Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Ra- 
vene's Gallery of modern French and German 
pictures (Tues. and Fri., 10-2)/ S. of the 
Schloss-Brucke is the Academy of Architecture. 
The Schinkel-Platz has statues of Schinkel, 
Beuth, and Thaer. The Kurfilrsten Bridge 
leads from the square S. of the Royal Palace 
into old Berlin, where are the Imperial Post- 
Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. 
The Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Ro- 
manesque building of brick (1860-70), with a 
tower 286 ft. high, and several handsome halls. 
Underneath is the Rathskeller, a great refresh- 
ment-room. Opposite the Museum is the Stock 
Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, 
with the greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. 
Beyond the Hercules Bridge (on which are 
statues by Schadow) is Monbijou, a beautiful 
royal palace, in which is the Hohenzollern 
Museum (daily, 10-3). Near by is the great 
Synagogue, Moorish in style. 

The splendid Konigs-Platz adjoins the Thier- 
garten, and contains the Monument of Victory, 
190 ft, high, commemorating the battles of 1870- 
71. Here is the Italian Renaissance Hall of the 
Imperial Diet, which cost 22,000,000 mks. Facing 
this on the west is the National Monument to 
Prince Bismarck. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's 
favorite promenade, leads through the Thier- 
garten, a park 2 M. long and f M. wide, with 
many ponds and groves of large trees. At the 
end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is 
the Emperor William Memorial Church, erected 
in 1895. To S. E. is the Botanical Garden with 
plants of 20,000 species. A tramway runs through 



278 GERMANY. Potsdam. — Dresden. 

the Thiergarten toCharlottenburg, a large town 
with a Palace (1699) in a handsome gardeii, and 
a Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious mas- 
ters. In Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Men- 
delssohn is buried; and in Trinity Cemetery, 
Schleiermacher and Neander. Cornelius rests 
in Hedgivig's Cemetery ; Rauch, Schadow, Schin- 
kel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheen- 
stadt Cemetery: and the Humboldts, at Tegel. 

Potsdam {Einsiedler ; Eisenhahn) is 16 M. 
from Berlin, among wooded hills and the lake- 
like expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- 
souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and 
full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the 
Picture-Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine 
statuary), and the Sicilian Garden. The Neic 
Palace (1769) has 200 richly adorned rooms, 
with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble 
Saloon. The Marhle Palace is N. of Potsdam, 
and has many paintings. Bahelsherg is a new 
Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures. The 
Town Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great 
Frederick. The Garrison Church contains his 
tomb and military trophies. The Church of 
Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces 
of sculpture. The famous Sans-souci fountains 
play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are 
several chateaux of princes near Potsdam (60,- 
000 inhab.). 

Dresden and Prague. 

Dresden {Grand Union; Savoy, Europdischer 
Hot, Continental; Bristol; Neio YorJc; Kron- 
prlnz ; Vier J ahreszeiten) , "the German Flor- 
ence," has 520,000 inhab., and has been the 



GERMANY. Dresden. 279 

capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and 
American families dwell here, induced by the 
abundant facilities for culture and amusement, 
and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe 
is crossed by five bridges, and bordered by the 
popular promenade, the Bruhl Terrace, adorned 
with statuary and trees. Here front the Syna- 
gogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Build- 
ings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun. 
and festivals, 11). Statues of Richter and Semper 
and the Maurice monument here. Opposite 
Court Church is the Hof-TJieater, and near it 
Guard House. In the square is equestrian statue 
of King John. The Royal Palace (1534) is an 
irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. 
high, and a richly frescoed Throne Room. The 
Green-Vault (8-2 daily, 1 mark) contains the 
largest existing collection of objects of art, 
bronzes, ivory carvings, mosaics, enamels, gems, 
crystal, and magnificent plate ; also the regalip 
of Poland and Saxony, superb state swords, and 
precious stones of enormous value : and works 
of Dtirer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum 
(part of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building 
decorated with statues and sculptures, and con- 
taining the finest picture-gallery N. of Italy 
(open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., Fri. free; Wed., 
Sat, 50 pf., Mon. 1^ mark). Here are 2,600 
paintings, including the Sistine Madonna, Cor- 
reggio's La Notte, and Titian's Tribute Money ; 
and choice works of Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, 
Veronese, etc. ; also, 3oO,0<X) engravings. The 
Museum Johannemn contains the collection of 
porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and 
Oriental ware), and the most interest- 
ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient 



280 GERMANY. Dresden. 

weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). 
The Alhertinum contains a sculpture gallery and 
a collection of casts. See the English ch. ; the 
stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady ; the Cross Ch., 
with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and stat- 
ues in the streets. Monument to the War of 
1870-71, in the Old Market. 

The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, con- 
tains the Royal Library, with 500,000 vols., 6,- 
000 MSS., and many rare old books and maps 
(open to visitors 12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, 50 
pf.). In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, 
near which Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. 
The Grosser Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, 
wherein the French and Prussians fought in 
1813. Here are Zoological and Botanical Gar- 
dens; also a Museum of Ecclesiastical Antiqui- 
ties. Schlegel and Weber are buried in the 
Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. 
Moreau was mortally wounded is 1^ M. S. ; and 
the Moritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. 
N. PiUnitz (7M.) is a handsome royal chateau. 
Many charming suburban excursions. 

The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. 
region, some 500 square M. in area, filled with 
grotesque sandstone peaks and gorges, and trav 
ersed by the Elbe. A 2-days' tour leads from 
Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. by rly.) ; thence (1^ 
hr.) to the BasteL a hotel-crowned peak, over- 
looking the whole region and the Elbe valley : 
thence (5 hrs.) to Schandaii, a summer resort 
(hotels) in the heart of the mts. and thence (1 
day) by the Lichtenhain Fall and the Kukstall 
and Prehischthor peaks, to Konigstein, a lofty 
and imposing Saxon fortress. It is 5-7 hrs. up 
the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzer- 



GERMANY. Prague. 281 

land, by Pima and Ed nig stein, with their fort- 
resses, and Bodenhach (2^ hrs. from the Schnee- 
berg, and opposite the handsome castle of 
Teschen ) , from Dresden to 

Prague {Palace ; Erzherzog-Stephan ; Schicarxz- 
es Ross; Blauer Stem; Central; Monopol), the 
capital of Bohemia (600,000 inhab.), situated on 
hills near the Moldau River. The population is 
chiefly Bohemian, and the Germans are very 
unpopular. The city was founded by the Duch- 
ess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached 
the Reformation, which took firm root in Bo- 
hemia until the Protestant army was crushed, 
just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian 
forces of the Roman-Catholic League. The pal- 
ace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian 
barrack ; and the old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, 
containing Tycho Brahe's tomb, is now Catholic ; 
see the painting of the Assumption by Skreta 
above the high altar. In front of the Rathhaus 
27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, 
in 1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein's officers, in 1633. 
See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic 
Pulverthurn tower; the great Jesuit College; 
the ancient University, founded in 1348 ; the 
Bohemiaji National Museum; the Museum of 
Industrial Art; the Rossmarkt, a grand street 
adorned with statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, 
where the Hussite wars began ; the Jeics' Quar- 
ter, with 9 synagogues and a very ancient ceme- 
tery ; and the Wyssehrad citadel. Walk through 
the (h'ohen (in Bohemian Na Prikope), the prin- 
cipal shopping street, where beautiful glass and 
garnet jewelry may be seen in abundance, built 
on the site of the ancient moat. The Charles 
Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, towers of 



282 AUSTRIA. Carlsbad.— Fbanzensbad. 

defence (on one of which the heads of the Pro- 
testant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 
30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the 
splendid Radetzky Monument (made from 
Italian cannon) and the Jesuit Ch. On the 
rocky heights above is the marvellous Hradschin, 
where stands the Cathedral (1344-85), contain- 
ing the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) 
of the Bohemian kings ; the tombs of St. Adal- 
bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel. and several Scla- 
vor'c kings, and many rare mosaics and paint- 
ing.:. The great Imperial Palace (open daily. 
11-1, ^ kr.) contains, portraits, ancient halls, and 
the Council Chamber from which the imperial 
councillors were thrown, causing the Thirty 
Years' War. In the Sternberg Palace is a col- 
lection of 350-400 paintings (open daily). The 
vast Czernian Palace is now a barrack. Near it 
is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied 
after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is 
the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahov, 
with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappen- 
heim, a painting by Dtirer, a fine library, and 
splendid views over Prague, the Moldau plain, 
and the Giant Mts. Below the Belvedere, an 
imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian historical 
frescos, are Wallenstein's Palace (1636) and the 
'Nostltz Palace, containing 400 paintings. 

Carlsbad (Savoy; Bristol; Pupp; Konigsvilla: 
Imperial; 'Sational; Hopfenstock ; Kroh; An- 
gers), 0-7 hrs. W. of Prague, is visited by 
over 20.000 yearly, who find the sulphur and 
saline waters beneficial, and pretty scenery of 
Tepl glens and pine woods very charming. 

Franzensbad (Post; Bristol; Grand; Konigs- 
villa; Hilhner) is a watering-place with 14 



AUSTRIA. Teplitz.— Vienna. 283 

carbonated iron springs, visited by 15,000 persons 
annually. Walk through the Wandelhahn, a cov- 
ered walk near the Kurhaus, lined with shops ; 
see the Statue of Emperor Francis I., that of the 
Empress Elizabeth, and the Goethe Fountain. 

Teplitz (Zum alien Rathatis; Kronprins; Ru- 
dolf), 3-4 hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from 
Prague, another famous watering-place, with 
warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. Scen- 
ery is mountainous, picturesque; and ruined 
castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound. 
From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-12 hrs. 
(38 mks. 90 pf., 30 mks. 60 pf., 21i mks.). From 
Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 
M. ; 8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf ., 13 mks. 70 
pf.), via Tabor and Gmiind. Berlin to Breslau 
and Vienna, 18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and 
Vienna, 14 hrs. 

Vienna. 

Hotels. — Imperial; Sacher; Grand; Bristol; 
Metropole; Kaiser in Elizabeth; Residenz; 
Meissl; Kratn; (in the suburbs). Continental, 
Leopoldstadt ;Kummer, Mariahilf ; Holler, Neu- 
bau. 

Restaurants. — Vienna is an expensive town, and 
a few hints may be useful. There is no obliga- 
tion to take more than first breakfast in hotels 
where you lodge. Sachers, near the Opera ; 
Hopfer; Hartman; Lehner; Bellaria; Drchcr's, 
close to Opera, and some of the cafe-restaurants 
on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 
9 to 11 ; and tbe traveller should not fail to take 
supper in one of the concert-halls, frequented by 
good society. Table-d'hote is not general. Good 



284 AUSTRIA. Vienna. 

dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed 
prices. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer 
(red) and Gumpoldsliirchener (white). The 
Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and 
Ofener (red) ; and Tokayer and Ruster (white). 

Carriages (2-horse), 1 K. 20 h. for drive 
within the city limits ; 60 h. per quarter hour ; 
1-horse, 80 li. an hr. Drivers expect liberal 
gratuity. Street-Cars, with smoking-compart- 
ments, run around the Ring, the Franz-Joseph- 
Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater 
(fare, 14 h.). The railway termini are all 
joined by a circular connecting line.' 

The capital of Austria and Hungary, with up- 
wards of 2,000,000 inh., stands on a mountain- 
walled plain near the Danube River, and is one 
of the handsomest, most enterprising, and most 
interesting of European cities. Vienna was first 
a Celtic village ; then a Roman fort, where Mar- 
cus Aurelius died (180) ; left a desolation by 
the Huns ; made a fief of the empire by Charle- 
magne ; occupied by the Duke of Austria in 1156 ; 
enriched by the Crusades ; fortified in 1251 ; oc- 
cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276; besieged by 
the Turks in 1529 and 1683; occupied by the 
French in 1805 and 1809; and in the power of 
Prussia in 1866. 

The Cathedral of St. Stephan, in the centre of 
Vienna, was built of limestone in 1300-1510, and 
restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 
89 feet high ; and its rich groined roof rests on 
huge pillars, adorned with 100 statuettes. See the 
old imperial burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eu- 
gene of Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sar- 
cophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir- 
stalls, and the stained windows. Great cata- 



AUSTRIA. Vienna. 285 

combs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's, 
Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meister- 
sanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen tow- 
ers. The tower is 453 ft. high (40 h.), and the 
guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wag- 
ram and Essling. At the corner of the Karntner- 
Strasse the chief business and shopping street, is 
the Stock am Eiseti, a pine-tree stump full of 
nails driven on account of an ancient custom. In 
theGrabenis the Trinity Column ( 1693 ), raised to 
commemorate the cessation of the plague in 1679. 
The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to 
the Imperial Palace. The Ring is the magnifi- 
cent boulevard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which 
(with the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds 
the inner town, and occupies the place of the old 
ramparts and glacis. Beginning at the Aspern 
Bridge, is passes between the great barracks 
and the Custom House. The next section, the 
8teul)en-Ring, passes the handsome new Art- 
History Museum (open 9-4, 60 h.), with 9 rooms, 
crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, 
ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paint- 
ings and statuary. This German S. Kensington 
is joined by a corridor to the TecJinical School, 
near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The 
Park-Ring runs between the pretty Stadt Park, 
and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are 
the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Co- 
'burg and the Archduke William. The Koloirrat- 
Ring passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) 
and the Gothic Academic Gymnasium. From the 
Schioartzenherg-Platz, with its monument and 
ducal palaces, the Kdrntner-Ring passes the Im- 
perial and Grand Hotels, the beautiful building 
of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Ar- 



286 AUSTRIA. Vienna. 

tists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The 
busy Opera-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera 
House, with sumptuous frescos and decorations; 
and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which 
is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), 
a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, 
and hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, 
Diirer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge 
new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the 
Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Ring passes the 
Volksgarten, a popular park, with a temple con- 
taining Canova's Theseus. Near it is the su- 
perb Votive Ch., commemorating the Emperor's 
escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned 
with twin spires, 345 ft. high, abounding in stat- 
ues and wonderful stained windows. Near 
by is the Allgemeines Krankenhaus, an enormous 
group of hospitals unsurpassed in Europe; and 
the great new buildings of the University, the 
Gothic Rathhaus, the Courts of Justice, the Hof- 
burg Theatre, the Military Ofiices, and the classic 
Parlifiment House. The Schotten-Ring contains 
the Exchange, a new Renaissance structure, the 
vast Police Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected 
on the site of the Ring Theatre, which was 
burned with great loss of life in 1881 ; it leads 
to tlie Danube Canal. 

The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of 
Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast 
and irregular group of buildings, with a laby- 
rinth of courts, gates, and corridors. See the 
magnificent Knights' Hall, in the Residenz ; the 
apartments of Maria Theresa ; the Riding- 
School; the Guard-House (military music daily, 
at 1) ; the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments; 
the Hofgarten ; and the statues of Francis I., 



AUSTRIA. Vienna. 287 

Joseph II., the Archduke Charles, Prince Eu- 
gene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 
9-4) contains 1,000,000 vols., 30,000 MSS., and 
350,000 engravings. The Natural-History and 
Mineral Cabinet s are very interesting. The 
Treasury (open free Tues. and Sat., 10-1 ; 1 K. 
Thurs. 11-2; special permit Mon. and Fri. 10-12) 
is the most interesting in Europe, and contains 
the entire regalia of Austria, coronation robes, 
jewel-studded decorations, jewelry, caskets of 
gold, silver, and crystal. Napoleon I.'s regalia as 
King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid. 
the crown and sword of Charlemagne, the lance 
which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. Among 
the jewels is the Florentine diamond 133 1/3 
carats. 

The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Im- 
perial Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), 
where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria 
Theresa, Marie Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, 
and other sovereigns. Near by is the Imperial 
Printing-office (open Tues. and Fri., 9-12). The 
University (4,000 students) is in the Franzens- 
Ring. 

The suburban Lichtenstein Palace (open 
daily, 9-6 has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with 
many remarkable works of Rubens and Van 
Dyck. The Schonborn Palace (Hon., Wed., and 
Fri., 9-3) has a famous collection of pictures: 
the Harrach Palace (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) con- 
tains 400 interesting paintings ; and the Czernin 
Palace contains some 350 pictures with many ex- 
cellent Flemish and Dutch canvasses. There 
are many very interesting ancient and modern 
chs., In Vienna, many palaces, and civic and na- 
tional institutions, monuments, squares, and 



288 AUSTRIA. Schonbrun. 

bridges, which should be seen. See also Museum 
of Austrian Ethnography (9-4, 1 K., Sun. and 
holidays free). Museum of Natural History 
(Sun. and Thurs. 9-1, Mon. 1-5, Wed. and Sat. 
9-3, 1 K., Tues and Fri. closed), and the Vienna 
Historical Museum (Sun., Tues., Thurs., 9-2, 2- 
K.) 

The Belvedere, an Imperial residence, built in 
1693-1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene 
of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its 
gallery formerly contained about 1,500 paintings, 
including a remarkable collection of early Italian 
and Venetian works, and Durer's world-renowned 
"Trinity," all of which were removed to the Im- 
perial Art Museum in 1891. The other of the 
two buildings forming the Belvedere, known as 
the Lower Belvedere, contained the famous Am- 
bras collection, removed in 1889 to the Art- 
History Museum. It contains now a gallery of 
modern paintings. Near by is the vast Arsenal, 
with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and 
thousands of military relics and trophies of the 
Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. 
Here also are great barracks, gun-factory, and 
cannon-foundry. 

The Prater is an immense forest-park on the 
E. (laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, 
theatres, and avenues. On May and June after- 
noons the fashionable world of Austria may be 
seen driving in the Haupt-Allee. Wurstel Prater 
is the part frequented by the humbler classes. 
In the cemetery of Wahring, li M. N. W. of the 
city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillparzer are 
buried; Mozart lies at St. Marx, and Gluck at 
Matzleinsdorf. 

Schonbrunn is a splendid suburban imi)erial 



AUSTRIA. ScHONBRUN. 289 

residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquar- 
ters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful 
gardens, fountains, statuary, asd flowers. On 
the W. are the villas of Hietzing, Laxenburg 
(f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau 
(built in 1377), with many interesting halls and 
monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, 
overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpathi'ans, 
and the Styrian Alps. There are many other 
lovely excursions in the environs. 



S. EUROPE. Presburg. 293 



SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE. 

THIS interesting region is easily reached 
from Vienna, whence steamers descend 
the Danube to Pest in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 
6.30 A. M.; fares, 12 K., 7 K. 50 h.). Pest to 
Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 30 K. 14 h., 19 
K. 70 h. by express). The steamer passes Loljau 
island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, 
with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809 ; and 
the castles of Deutsch-AItenhurg, Hainburg, and 
Thehen; and in 2i hrs. reaches Presburg (Grw- 
ner Baum; Konig von JJngarn), the former 
capital (78,000 inh.), on the foot-hills of the 
little Carpathians. In the Cathedral (1090) the 
Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a 
statue of St. Martin. See the Ratliliaus (1288) ; 
the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293) ; and the 
Museums. From the ruins of the imperial pal- 
ace, on the Schlossberg, there is a lovely view 
over the villages and vineyards. Beautiful ex- 
cursions in the vicinity. 

Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn, 
or Komaron is a powerful fortress (24.0U0 in- 
hab.) ; Gran, or Esztergom (10,000 inhab.) has 
lofty-domed cathedral ; Viscgrdd, a venerable 
fortress, ruined by the Turks. 

Budapest (Grand Hotel Hungaria; Queen of 
England; Royal; Bristol; Continental; Fiume, 
Lucashad in Buda ; Margaretenhad, on the 
island) has 880,000 inhabitants. It is the capi- 
tal of Hungary, and is a handsome modern city, 



292 S. EUROPE. Budapest. 

next only to Vienna in importance in the em- 
pire-kingdom, Th;e beautiful modern Renais- 
sance Academy (Sun., Tues., Fri., 10-L30, free; 
other times 1 K.) contains a library and botani- 
cal collection, and has many Hungarian land- 
scapes and historical paintings. The Natiotial 
Museum (inquire regarding adm., as the dif- 
ferent collections are on view at different times, 
sometimes free, sometimes 1 K.) is rich in Ro- 
man, Transylvanian, and Hungarian antiquities, 
and has a natural history collection and a li- 
brary and waiting room. The magnificent Moro- 
Romanesque Recloiite Buildings contain ball- 
rooms, concert halls, assembly rooms, etc. The 
new Museum of Fine Arts (10-1.30 free; after- 
noon 1 K.) contains the great National (formerly 
Esterhazy) Gallery with 900 paintings, 22,000 
drawings, and about 75,000 engravings, and also 
a collection of modern pictures. See the Indus- 
trial Art Museum with exterior colored orna- 
mentation in Magyar style ; the House of Parlia- 
merit; the Palace of Justice; the Rathaus; the 
Opera House; the new Royal Agricultural 
Museum in the Varosliget Park ; the Post Office; 
the promenades along the Danube; the statues 
of Stefan Szechenyl, Joseph von Eotvos, Arch- 
duke Joseph, Franz Deak, Alexander Petofi, 
Semmelweiss (the discoverer, after Oliver Wen- 
dell Holmes, of the cause of puerperal fever), and 
George Vf ashington ; the colossal sculptural bulls 
in front of the slaughter house ; the Vdrosliget 
Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monuments 
of Kossuth, Batthy^ny, Dedk, and others ; the 
Margarethen - Insel, a pretty island - park 
(cafes and military music) ; and various new 
national buildings. A splendid suspension- 



S. EUROPE. Belgeade. 293 

bridge and other bridges connect Pest and Buda 
(Ofen). The latter was once a Roman colony, 
and for 150 years a Turkish town. See the Royal 
Palace, the great modern fortress, and St. Mat- 
thius Church. There are famous baths in Ofen, 
founded by the Turks, near one of which is a 
mosque. 

Steamers from Pest to Orsova, 50 hours, a 
superb trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks 
conquered Hungary (1526) ; Neusatz, sl fortified 
modern town; Peterivardein, where Peter the 
Hermit preached the First Crusade; Carlowitz, 
and Semlin, where is Hunyadi's castle. 

Belgrade (Hotel de Paris; Moscow), the capi- 
tal of Servia, has 40,000 inhab., formerly a quaint 
Oriental town, with narrow streets curving un- 
der a fortress-crowned rock. Modern improve- 
ments have widened the streets and numbered 
the houses after western models. The Kalemeg- 
don Park is interesting and affords fine view. 

Baziasch, 4-5 hrs. below, is the end of the ry. 
from Pest. Travelers come down this way and 
take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube en- 
ters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. 
On the right, in this tremendous defile, is the 
ruined fortress of Golultacz, and ancient Roman 
forts. At Brencava the rapids are entered. Ser- 
via is on the r., Hungary on the 1. Through the 
Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. wide, be- 
tween immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman 
road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, com- 
memorating the Dacian campaign, is near the 
end. 

Orsova (Kdnig von TJngarn; Ozanic) is a 
pretty Wallachian village, just above the famous 
Iron Gates, where the Danube plunges through 



294 S. EUROPE. Bucharest. 

a rocky canon 1^ M. long. A rly. runs from 
Pest to Orsova (305 M.), by Temesvar (Hun- 
garia; Kronprinz), an old walled town of 72,- 
000 inhab. From Vienna to Bucharest by this 
favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 
131i fr. ; the Roumanian currency is like that of 
France). 

Fares from Vienna 49 K. 80 h., 30 K. 40 h. by 
express in 7 hours to Cracow {Grand; Saxe), 
once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria 
in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs 
of the Polish kings ; and a huge mound made 
of earth, erected by the people in honor of Kosci- 
uszko. Fares, 41 K. 70 h., 25 K. 50 h. by ex- 
press in 5| hrs. to Lemberg {Hotel de France; 
George; de VEurope), the capital of Galicia, 
with 207,000 inhab. and a large university. Fare 
from Budapest to Bucharest on the Orient Ex- 
press 99 fr. 25 c, time 20 hours. 

Bucharest {Hotel Boulevard; Capsa; Eras- 
cati), the capital of the kingdom of Roumania, 
"the Paris of the East," has 315,000 inhab., and ' 
is a semi-Oriental town, divided into the Yellow, 
Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. 
See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Univer- 
sity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572), 
the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., 
and some of the chs. 

Vienna to Gratz and Trieste. 

Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste 
in 11-12 hrs. (fares, 61 K. 20 h., 42 K. 90 h.), 
crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully 
picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts. 
Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea ; and 
here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge 
by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the 



S. EUROPE. Gratz.— Trieste. 295 

narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. 
to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to 

Gratz (Elephant; Daniel; Wiesler; Steirer- 
liof), the capital of Styria (150,000 inhab.), a 
pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where 
many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle 
is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand 
view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the 
Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and 
the Johanneum Palace, with its library and pic- 
ture-gallery. 

Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque 
mt. region, full of historical interest. At Stein- 
briick a branch diverges to Agram, the capital 
of Croatia. Farther on is Laibach, the capital 
of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; 
and Adelsberg {Grand Hotel Adelsherg; Krone), 
whence the famous Stalactite Caverns (one mile 
west of the town) may be visited. The long zig- 
zag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid 
views. 

Trieste (Hotel de la Ville; Eoccelsior Palace; 
Delorme ; Aquila Xera; Central), chief Aus- 
trian port (250,000 inhab.), is an Italian city in 
sentiment and appearance, beautifully situated 
on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 ves- 
sels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a 
sumptuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far- 
viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), 
a Ghetto (Jews' quarter), many palaces, and 
several statues. The Tergestenm is a vast com- 
mercial building, headquarters of the Austrian 
Lloyds. The Piazzetta di Ricardo commemo- 
rates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion 
here. Beautiful drives on the St. Andrea Corso, 
to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico ; 



296 S. EUROPE. Salzburg. 

and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke, 
Ohelisco, and the Grotta Gigante. 

Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian 
and Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, 
Cattaro, Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and 
Greek ports, and Constantinople ; also to Venice. 
Rly. to Venice. 

The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc. 

This region is full of beauty and picturesque- 
ness. The descent by steamer from Linz to 
Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (9 K. 40 h., 5 K. 20 h.) ; 
ascent, 18-20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is 
by rly. to Linz and Munich. Rly. from Vienna 
is 117 M. (3i-7 hrs. ; express fares 22 K. 60 h., 13 
K. SOh.), by Melk, with its ancient Benedictine 
monastery ; and Enns, once strongly fortified 
with the ransom paid by England for Richard 
Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the great Augu»- 
tinian Abbey of 8t. Florian; to 

Linz (Erzherzog Carl; GoUlner Adler), the 
capital of Upper Austria (70,000 inhab.), a 
pretty town, with a museum, castle and Capu- 
chin ch. 78 miles S. W. (express in 3 hrs., fare 
15 K. 60 h., 9 K. 50 h.) is 

Salzburg (Hotel de VEurope; Mirahell; Au- 
triche; Nelhock; Munchnerhof), one of the most 
beautiful towns in Germany, with an Italian 
beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and 
marble fagades, and environs of far-famed pic- 
turesqueness ; 40,000 inhab. The Palace, Cathe- 
dral, and Government buildings are in the old 
quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, his 
house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; 
also the Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and 



S. EUROPE. IscHL. 297 

the Benedictine Abbey with the cellar where 
Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the 
Museum, the Franciscan Church, the impos- 
ing Fortress of Ho1ien-Salzl)urg, and the High 
and woody Monchsderg; 250 stone steps lead to 
the monastery on the Capiizijier'berg. The house 
of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of 
Miralyell, Prince Schwartzenberg's chateau of 
Aigen, and the imperial villa of HeWrunn, are 
near by. 

Railway (66 M., 2^-5 hrs. ; express fare 13 K. 
10 h., 8 K.) to Bad Gastein {StrauMnger : Ga- 
steiner Hof; Badeschloss; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; 
Weismayr; Germania), whose warm springs at- 
tract thousands of nervous, gouty, and debili- 
tated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in 
high waterfalls. 

The Salzkammergut, or "Austrian Switzer- 
land," in w^hich the Government has great salt- 
mines, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg 
and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Ger- 
many, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, 
and far-viewing mts. Railway (42 M., 2i hrs. ; 
fare 8 K. 50 h. ) from Salzburg to the fashionable 
watering-place of Ischl (Kaiset'in Elizabeth; 
Bauer; Post; Kaiserkrone; Austria; Victoria), 
near the centre of the. Alpine region, with splen- 
did villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud 
baths and whey baths here. Grand excursions 
in every direction. From Vienna to Ischl (rail- 
way in 6 hrs., fare 34 K. 50 h., 21 K. 10 h.) to 
Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls), a 
quiet little summer-resort on the Traun See, the 
most beautiful of German lakes. Here one may 
break the railway journey, if desired, for an 
hour's sail (9 miles) by steamer, amid grand lake 



298 S. EUROPE. Munich. 

and mt. scenery, to E'bensee, a small town with 
extensive salt works ; thence to Ischl. 

Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a 
picturesque mt. region. 

Munich and the Tyrol. 

Munich {Bayrischer Hof; Rnssischer Hof; 
Rheinischer Hof; Regina-Palast ; Vier Jahres- 
zeiten; Continental; Englischer Hof; Wagner; 
Europdischer Hof; Deut seller Kaiser; Griin- 
wald; Park), the capital of Bavaria (560,000 
inhab.), is on the Isar river, on a broad, lofty, 
and barren plain. The climate is variable, and 
almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished 
rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2-4 
weeks. The Royal Palace (adm. 10.45 daily), an 
imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magni- 
ficent frescos from the Odyssey and the Nie- 
belungenlied, and from the lives of Charlemagne, 
Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, in the 
Throne-Room, Schwanthaler's grand statues of 
12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- 
Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal 
Chapel (open 9.30-11, 2-4; also the Treasury 
(Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9-11, 1 mark), with the 
Bavarian regalia, the great blue diamond, and 
the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), and 
of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni- 
gunda (1010), and the Reiche Kapelle (Mon. and 
Wed., 9-11, 2 marks) containing rich ecclesias- 
tical objects. The Festsaalbau, with noble por- 
tico and statues, fronts on the Hofgarten, around 
which run richly frescoed Arcades, containing 
the Ethnographical Museum and the Art Union 
The Hof-Theatre, adorned with many fine stat- 
ues, is the largest in Germany. 



S. EUROPE. Murs'iCH. 299 

To the east of the palace is the Bavarian 
Military Museum (9.30-12.30, 8-5, ex. Sat. ; Mon., 
Wed, and Thurs., 1 mark, Tues. and Fri. free), 
with elaborately ornamented cannon in front. 
The Bavarian National Museum (9-4, ex. Mon. ; 
Sun. and Wed. free, other days 1 mark), in the 
Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great 
historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval 
Christian art, and modern art; textiles, armor, 
ceramics ; old MSS. and specimens of early print- 
ing. 

The Ludwigs-Strasse runs from the Hall of 
Generals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch 
erected by Ludwig I. to the Bavarian army, with 
statutes and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze 
Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and 
near this street are the Odeon Concert-hall ; the 
Theatine Church, with the royal tombs ; the 
equestrian statue of Ludwig I. ; the War Office ; 
the Royal Library (8-1, 3-8 daily; closed Sun. 
and Sat. afternoon), — a Florentine building with 
fine statues and an imposing stairway, 1,000,- 
000 vols., 50,000 MSS., and literary curiosities,— 
the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- 
books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest 
Niebelungenlied MS., etc. ; the LudKigskirclie, a 
splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius's 
Last Judgment and other frescos ; and a great 
square, with statues, bounded by ' the Priests' 
Seminary, the Max-Joseph School, and the Uni- 
versity (6,400 students). 

Beyond the Gate of Victory (see above) is the 
Academy of Art, with figures of Castor and Pol- 
lux at the entrance. From the Max-Joseph Platz 
(on which are the Theatre, Royal Palace, Post 



300 S. EUROPE. Munich. 

Office and Max- Joseph's Statue) the handsome 
Maximilian-Strasse, 1 M. long, runs to the Isar, 
by the Vier Jahreszeiten Hotel, the Government 
buildings, a long square with statues, (one of the 
Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the old Na- 
tional Museum, to the handsome Maximilianeum 
civil-service school, adorned with frescos and 
statuary. The German Museum (9-7, except 
Tues., 20 pf., with guide, 1 to 3 persons, 6 marks), 
housed in the old National Museum building and 
the Heavy Cavalry Barracks, contains a most 
interesting collection of objects illustrating the 
history of technical industries — mining, tele- 
graphy, railroading, aviation, printing, spinning, 
watchmaking, photography, radiology, acoustics, 
heating, etc. A permanent home will be made 
near the cavalry barracks on an island in the 
Isar River. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) 
is 118 ft. high inside, and has towers 357 ft. 
high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monu- 
ments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. Mich- 
ael's Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen's 
monument to Engene Beauharnais, viceroy of 
Italy. The AllerheUigenkirclie is a magnificent 
Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and fres- 
cos on gold ground. St. Boniface, an imitation 
of a 5th-century basilica, is a very beautiful 4- 
aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 
monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, 
gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs, and many fres- 
cos by Hess. The statue of Maximilian I. was 
designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured 
Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediaeval Wit- 
telsbacJi Palace. 

The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits 
College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, 



S. EUROPE. Munich. 301 

coins, casts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller, 
Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; 
the Marian. Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 
ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bava- 
rians who died in the Russian war; the ancient 
and imposing Isar and Neuhauser Gates ; the 
great bronze-foundry, with collection of models 
(daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's 
works ; the great beer-gardens and breweries (es- 
pecially the Hofbrauhaus on a street leading 
from the Maximilian-Strasse) ; and the splendid 
arcaded cemetery. 

The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 
9-4) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned 
with 24 statues of famous artists, and with a 
long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes 
from the history of mediaeval art. The Museum 
contains 1,100 paintings, including fine works of 
Raphael, C^orreggio, Titian, Holbein, Diirer, and 
Rubens. On the ground floor, 300,(X)0 engrav- 
ings, 9,(X)0 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and 
Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mark, illustrated 4* 
marks). The New Pinakothek (open free Sun., 
Tues., Thurs., and Sat, 9-4, Mon., Wed., Fri., 1 
mark 9-2), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's de- 
signs, contains 900 modern paintings (mostly of 
the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. 
The Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and Fri., 9-2, 
other days and hours, 1 mark, is a handsome Ionic 
building, with 12 richly frescoed vaulted halls, 
enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern 
sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thor- 
waldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the Cor- 
inthian Ecrhihition Building, where new Munich 
pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; 
and N. W. is the famous Stained-Olass Institn- 



802 S. EUROPE. Ober-Ammergau. 

tion. The Propylaea Gate in the Konigz-Platz 
is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acro- 
polis at Athens, built in 1862, and adorned with 
sculptures. To the west of this gate is the 
Scliack Gallery (10-2, Sun., 11-1, closed Thurs., 
Mon. 1 mark, other days free), containing ex- 
cellent collection of the works of modern Ger- 
man authors. 

The English Garden, laid out by Count Rum- 
ford, begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N. 
four miles. You can drive through it to the Ob- 
servatory, 1* M. A little over a mile outside 
the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric colon- 
nade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. 
Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria, 56 ft. 
high. Ascend into its head, whence there is a 
fine view. The royal chateau and deer-park 
Nymphenburg and the Porcelain factory are 3 M. 
W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M. ; 
rly. in 1 hr.) 12^x3 M. in area, has fine mt. 
views, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several 
chateaux. 

Operas at Hof und National-Theatre (prices 
low). Sun., Mon., Thurs. and Fri., except in 
July (open, as usual in Germany, at 6.80 or 7). 
Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael's, 
the Court church. 

Ober-Ammergau may be reached comfortably 
from Munich by way of Murnau, passing the 
ancient abbey of Ettal and up the Ammerthal. 
This is a pleasant summer-journey among Ba- 
varian mts. and lakes, and into the country of 
the Passion Play. See local guides. 

Through the Tyrol to Italy. — From Salzburg 
to Innsbruck one must pass through Bavaria, 
change cars, and submit to the examination of 



S. EUROPE. Innsbruck. .303 

baggage. The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kuf- 
stein {Drei Koniger ; Egger; Post), an ancient 
fortress commanding the Tyrolese frontier; and 
up the beautiful valley of the Inn ; by busy and 
picturesque old Schwaz, among rich iron and 
copper mines; and Hall, whose ch. has a picture 
by Diirer. 

From Vienna to Innsbruck by express in 12 
hrs. (58 K., 37 K.). 

Innsbruck (Hotel cle VEurope; Tirol; Kayser; 
Krekl; Hahshiirger), the capital of the Tyrol 
54,000 inh.), is beautifully situated in the midst 
of mts., 6-8,000 ft. high, whose peaks seem to 
overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge 
which gives name to the town, Hofer's Tyrolese 
riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's Bavarians in 
the War of Independence (1809). The body of 
Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms 
against the French for 14 years, and was shot 
by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver 
Chapel of Innsbruck's Franciscan Ch.. under a 
splendid monument. In the same ch. is the 
monument (1513-83) of the Emperor Maximilian 
I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcophagus, 
and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 
24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which 
the sacristan uncovers and explains). Queen 
Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in 
this ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by 
Maria Theresa; the Golden Roof; the Univer- 
sity; the Triumphant Arch; the interesting 
Museum Ferdinancleum ; the Relief Map of the 
Ty^rol, made of stones, at the Normal School ; the 
ancient Capuchin Monastery ; the wealthy Ahhey 
of WiUen; and the fine old castle of Ambras 



304 S. EUROPE. Teent. 

(13th century), now a museum (daily ex. Mon. 
9-12, 2-5, 40 h.. Sun. and holidays free). 

From Innsbruck to Verona, by express in 4 
hrs. (fare 40 K. 65 h.) 

The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses 
the Brenner Pass, 4,495 ft. high, the water-shed 
between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the 
fortress of Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. 
From Sterzing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal 
are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Brixen, 
an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. 
and cloisters; Bozen {Hotel Victoria; Kaiser- 
krone; Bristol), frequented by invalids^ and in 
one of the finest Tyrolese glens. Railway thence 
(20 M. ; 3 K. 40 h. ; round trip, 5 K. 60 h.) to 
Meran (Palast; Bristol; Savoy; Grand; Kaiser- 
hof; Tiroler), a winter resort, 1045 ft. eleva- 
tion, with dry climate and many sunny days ; 
and also in summer a grape-cure station. There 
are many delightful walks and some beautiful 
views here, etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent {Im- 
perial; Europa), once an Etruscan town, known 
to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old tow- 
ers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a grand 13th- 
century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria 
Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent 
held its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the 
Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region 
familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala. 

Stoitzerland may be reached directly from 
Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across 
Lake Constance to Romanshorn, and rly. to Zu- 
rich, We recommended the tourist, however, 
to go on from Munich to Augsburg and Stutt- 
gart, with a detour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, 



S. EUROPE. Ulm.— Stuttgart. 305 

etc. ; and from Nuremberg or Wiirzburg to Heid- 
elberg. 

Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg. 

Rly, in 1^-2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg 
(Kaiserhof ; Drei Kronen; Drei Mohren, a very 
ancient hotel, in which Charles V. was enter- 
tained), once a free imperial town of vast wealth, 
and the centre of trade between Germany and 
the Levant, now has 100,000 inhab. There re- 
main many picturesque old houses, frescoed out- 
side; the ancient Palace in which the Augsburg 
Confession was given; the venerable chs. of St. 
Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616-20), 
with its Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathe- 
dral (995), with handsome cloisters; and the 
frescoed Fuggerhaus, the home of the richest mer- 
chants of 16th-century Europe. See also the 
fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the 
gallery of Suabian pictures. It is 2-3 hrs. to 

Ulm (Miinster; Bahnlwf; Russischer Hof; 
Goklener Lowe; Baumstark), a fortress of Wiirt- 
emberg (55,000 inh.), on the Danube. The 
Gothic Cathedral (1377) has immense organ, 
finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. 
high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower 
(528 ft. high). Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 
hrs. Rly. from Ulm across Wtirtemberg (2}-4 
hrs.) to 

Stuttgart {Marquardt ; Victc/ria; Royal; Sil- 
her; Dierlamm) capital of Wtirtemberg (260,000 
inhab.), beautifully situated among the hills and 
vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-Ameri- 
can colony. The Konigsbau (Royal Palace) has 
an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Op- 



306 S. EUROPE. Nuremberg. 

posite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the new Pal- 
ace (174&-1807), containing very fine sculptures 
(open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and 
the Old Palace (1553-70) ; also the Stiftskirche 
(1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wurt- 
emberg; Thorwaldsen's statue of Schiller; and 
various national buildings. The Royal Library 
(open daily, except Sat. and Sun., 11-12, 3-4, 20 
pf.) contains 500,000 vols., 3,800 MSS., and a 
collection of national antiquities ; and the 
Museum of Art (open 10-1, 2-4, Sun.,Tues., Wed., 
Fri., free; other days and hours, 50 pf.) has a 
collection of pictures and statuary. The K6- 
nigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief 
streets. There are small but interesting 
museums, and good schools. The Museum of 
Bad Taste, where all sorts of monstrosities in 
furniture, house decorations, jewelry, etc., are 
shown, is well worth a visit. Charming views 
from the Hasenberg, Uhlandshohe, and Schillers- 
hohe. Visit Stadt-Gartefi. The Anlagen park, 
decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to 
Cannstadt (BahnJiof), on the Neckar, with wann 
saline and chalybeate springs, much frequented 
by invalids. It is now united in one city with 
Stuttgart. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, 
and other villas on the heights ; also the Kursaal 
and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligrath is 
here. There are several other notable excur- 
sions to be made from Stuttgart. 

From Augsburg or from Stuttgart, via Crails- 
heim and Anshach, go to 

Nuremberg {^Wurtemhergerhof ; Grand; Wit- 
telshacli; Victaria; Deutscher Kaiser), a delighl- 
ful old town 300,000 inhabitants), famous for its 
quaint mediaeval houses, oriel windows, and toy 



S EUROPE. Nuremberg. 307 

factories, and the centre of trade between North 
and South Germany. At one time there flour- 
ished here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Krafft, the 
carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albrecht 
Diirer, and the great master himself ; and Haas 
Sachs, the cobbler-poet. The latter two are 
buried in St. John's Cemetery; their houses are 
religiously kept ; Ranch's statue of Dtirer stands 
in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs's monu- 
ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall 
which encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of 
masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by 
Unger. Take a walk around these walls, and 
also note the singular old bridges over the 
Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at St. Rochiis, 
and his house is preserved. The finest ch. is 
St. Laiorence, a red-sandstone structure (1287- 
1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-win- 
dow, Krafft's wonderful ciborium, 66 ft. high, 
and Veit Stoss's wood carvings. See fountains 
outside. In the Goose Market is the ancient 
bronze fountain-figure of the Little Goose Man. 
The Liebfrauenkirche has splendid fagade, and 
rich old glass and works of art inside. On one 
wall is the clock from which issue every day at 
noon figures representing the seven Electors sur- 
rounding Emperor Charles IV. 

Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385-96); sur- 
rounded with statues of heroes. aS^^. Sebaldus, 
a 13th-century Gothic basilica, contains rare old 
paintings, and the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, 
"the most exquisite gem of German art," whose 
multitude of statues and carvings were made by 
Vischer and his sons (1506-19). Opposite is St. 
Maurice, a Gothic chapel restored. St. Epidius 
(1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The 



308 S. EUROPE. Ratisbon. 

Germanic Museum (daily, 10-1, 2-4, 1 mark ; Sun. 
10-2, free), in an old Carthusian convent (beau- 
tiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and 
many mediaeval relics and pictures. In the old 
Dominican convent is the Toicn Lihrary (open 
daily, 9-12, 3-5), with 100,000 vols, and 2,000 
MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock 
to the N., built in 1024, and enlarged by Bar- 
barossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now 
partially restored. It is rich in ponderous tow- 
ers, quaint chapels, and antique halls. In main 
tower (adm. 20 pf.) is a torture chamber, the 
chief instrument in which is an "Iron Virgin." 
Beautiful view from here over town and coun- 
trj\ The Rathhaiis contains many pictures. See 
also the new law-courts and the Schone Brun- 

Ratisbon {Maximilian; Griiner Kranz; Na- 
tional; KarmelitenJjrdu), called in German Reg- 
en sbiirg, a very ancient free town, where the 
Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to 1808, is 
now Bavarian. There are many mediseval 
houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, 
and with towers of defence (especially in Am- 
bassadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a 
rich fagade and porch, lofty towers, and a very 
symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high ; also, fine monu- 
ments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, 
and cloisters. The 12th-century Benedictine Ch. 
of St. James has strange old sculptures ; and the 
Benedictine Monastery of St. Emmeran, founded 
in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, has since 
1812 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn and 
Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains 
many implements of torture. 

Seven miles distant (motor-bus, carriage, or 



S. EUROPE. Walhalla.— Baireuth. 309 

tramway), on a hill over the Danube, is the 
Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) 
by King Ludwig I. as a Temple of Fame (open 9- 
12.30, 2-7 in summer, free.) It resembles the 
Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite 
blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and 
adorned- in the pediments with Schwanthaler's 
sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- 
ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The in- 
terior hall, 180x50 ft., decorated with friezes, con- 
tains 6 Victory statues by Ranch, and 101 busts 
of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian For- 
est and Alps. 

Kelheim {Klosterhrdu; Rosengarten) up the 
Danube, has the huge circular Hall of Liberation, 
built by King Ludwig I., 1842-63, to commemo- 
rate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with, mar- 
ble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara 
marble ; while outside are 18 colossal statues. 

Wiirzburg {Kronprinz von Bayern; Bahnhof; 
Riissischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, a 
Cathedral (1189-1240), the Neumtinster Ch. 
(with tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), 
the handsome Mariencapelle, and a university. 
Rly. to Baireuth, by 

Bamberg (Bam'berger Hof), a hill-town, with 
a splendid 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, 
rich in monuments and relics. The Royal Li- 
brary contains 4,500 MSS. and 300.000 volumes. 
In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against 
Prussia. The rly. runs around the Franconian 
Switzerland to 

Baireuth (Rcichsadler; Post; Goldener 
Anker), the seat of Wagner's great theatre, and 
of an old opera house. Jean Paul Richter's 
house, statue, and tomb are here. See Wagner's 



310 S. EUROPE. Heidelberg. 

house and grave, the Palaces, the War Monument 
of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of the Ere- 
mitagc and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- 
cursions into the Fichtelgebirge. 

From Wiirzburg it is 5-7 hrs. to 

Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe; Grand; Lang ; 
Victoria; Frinz Carl; Schloss; Bcllevue), re- 
nowned for its history, its learned University, and 
its beautiful situation, where the mountainous 
Neckar valley enters the great Rhine plain. The 
University (founded 1386) has valuable muse- 
ums, and a library of 400,000 vols. The build- 
ings are homely. The Castle, 330 ft. above the 
Neckar, was founded in 1195 and added to by 
subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the 
French Gen. M61ac, forced to retreat thence, 
burnefl and blew up the castle; and the destruc- 
tion was completed by lightning in 1764. It is 
the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid 
Renaissance Otto Heuirichs building (1556) ; 
Friedrichs building (1601), rich in statues, and 
containing the great Tun (49,000 gallons) ; and 
other palaces, towers, and gardens. From the 
Konigsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by 
road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar val- 
leys, the Black Forest, Taunus, and Odenwald, 
and out to Strassburg Cathedral. 

Spires, Worms, Baden, Strassburg. 

It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley to 

Mannheim {Deiitscher Hof; Pfdlzer Hof; 

Park), a town of 200,000 inhab., on the Rhine, 

very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great 

palace and picture-gallery and several statues.. 



S. EUROPE. Dabmstadt. 311 

Fine rly.-bridge across the Rhine, to Ludwigs- 
haven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is 

Spires, German, Speyer (Rheinischer Hof; 
Wittelshacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian 
Palatinate (20,000 inhab.). The vast and im- 
posing Romanesque Cathedral (open 10-11, 2-6, 
fee for adm. to choir and crypt, 50 pf.) was 
founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. Bernhard 
preached the Crusade in it. 9 German emperors 
and 3 empresses were buried here. See new fa- 
gade and Emperor's Hall ; magnificent modern 
frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwan- 
thaler. A handsome Memorial Church has re- 
cently been erected here to commemorate the 
protests uttered against the decree of the diet 
of Speyer in 1529, w^hence came the designation 
"Protestant." 

Worms {Alter Kaiser; Hartmann; Kalserhof; 
Bahnhofs-Hotel), f hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, suc- 
cessively capital of Burgundian and Franconian 
kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a quiet Hes- 
sian town. The splendid Romanesque Cathedral 
(1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately 
interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred 
events sung of in the Niebelungenlied ; . and on 
one side is the Renaissance Heylshof, on the site 
of the Episcopal palace where Luther defended 
his doctrines before Charles V. and the Diet of 
Worms (1521). Luther's Monument (built 1859- 
68) consists of his colossal statue, around and 
below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Pro- 
testant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a 
grand work. 

Darmstadt {Trauhc; Britannia), the hand- 
some capital of Hesse (83.000 inhab.). has in its 
Palace a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble 



312 S. EUROPE. Carlsruhe. 

gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the 
palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer 
Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk.). The Museum 
(Tues., Thurs., Sat, 1 mk., Wed. Sun., holi- 
aays free) contains pictures of the Dutch and 
German schools, collections of enamels, carving 
in ivory, etc. 

From Heidelberg, 2 hrs. to 

Carlsruhe {Gerniania; Victoria; Grilner Hof ; 
Hotel Grosse), the capital of Baden (140,000 
inhab.), with handsome modern buildings, 
squares, and monuments. The streets radiate 
like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace and 
park. The Romanesque Hall of Art (Sun., 
Wed., Fri., 11-1, 2-4) contains about 700 pictures, 
and other collections. From handsome rly. stat. 
1 hr. to 

Baden-Baden (Victoria; Regina; Bellevtce; 
Park; Messmer; Terminus; Paris; Rdmerl)ad), 
in a glen amid the foothills of the Black Forest. 
40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in 
fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate 
and beautiful environs, and to drink the mineral 
waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Conver- 
sation-House', and Bath-House. The lofty New 
Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer 
home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the 
town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices 
at Baden generally high. Excursions thence into 
the Black Forest. Rly. S. to Kehl, where the 
Rhine is crossed to 

Strassburg (Maison Rouge; Hotel Christoph; 
Ville de Paris; Pfeiffer), the capital of Alsace- 
Lorraine (170,000 inh.), terribly bombarded in 
the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 
1015-1439, has magnificent fagade by Erwin von 



S. EUROPE. Strassbubg.— Freiburg. 313 

Steinbacli (1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (as- 
cent, li mk.), whence an extensive view is 
gained, even to the Jura Mts. The interior, 323 
ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century 
stained windows, slender and richly carved pil- 
lars, and Erwin's tomb and pillar, is impressive. 
The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. 
transept. The bombardment of 1870, which de- 
stroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, 
etc., spared the Cathedral. The new Univer' 
sity, now specially favored by Germany, is at 
the Fischer Gate. The new Library already 
has 800,000 vols. In St. Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) 
is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, 
which it took 20 years to make. In the Place 
Gutenberg is a statue of Gutenberg. The New 
Temple has been rebuilt magnificently. Many 
statues on the squares. The Municipal Museum 
of Art, containing a picture gallery and a collec- 
tion of Alsatian antiquities, occupies the old 
Episcopal Palace. The Emperor's Palace, a re- 
naissance building, is open daily, 10-6, 25 pf. 
Strassburg is an important strategic point, and 
vast fortifications have been erected by the Ger- 
mans. 

From Strassburg go to Basle along the Black 
Forest. 

Freiburg {Zdhrmger; Victoria; Europe) is a 
pretty forest-town of 74,000 inhab., and the capi- 
tal of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in 
many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical 
red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a re- 
markable tower, 397 ft. high ; a rich portal, with 
statuary; and an interior (342 ft. x 102 ft. and 
85 ft. high) lighted from five stained windows, 
and containing many old monuments, paintings, 



314 S. EUROPE. Freiburg. 

etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12; fee at choir, 
50 pf. ; to tower, 20 pf.). The Kaufhaus, on the 
S., is a handsome 15th-century building. The 
new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von 
Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams 
of pure water in the streets, and the pretty 
pebble pavements. Climb the SchJossherg. Grand 
view over Biack Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland. 
From Freiburg to Basle, 2 hrs. 



MAP OF 

SWITZERIAND 

to ar rrtTTip aTiy 

Complete Pocket Guide 
to Europe 

Ecdlyvcys—. TostRoads 

English Miles 




Loniiitude Elst A of Gfi 



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WURTIp^BERC 



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SWITZERLAND. Basle. 315 



SWITZERLAND. 

FOR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. 
Swiss money is in francs, like French. 
The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, 
July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and ex- 
cursion tickets on all Swiss rlys. Pensions 
(large summer boarding-houses) at all chief re- 
sorts, $.80-42.00 a day. 

Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance. 

Basle {Trois Rois; SchweizerTiof ; Victoria; 
Elder; Bauer; Central), a town of 135,000 inhab., 
on Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There 
are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks 
and promenades. The Cathedral, built by 
Henry II. in 1010-19, and restored after destruc- 
tions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing 
Gothic building of red sandstone, now Pro- 
testant (Wed., 2-4, free; other times 25 c.) An- 
cient statuary on fagades ; 2 lofty towers, built 
in 1500. In rich and beautiful interior see the 
roodloft (1381) stained windows; Chapel of St. 
Nicholas; font (1465) pulpit (1486); tombs of 
Erasmus and of Empress Anna ; sculptures on 
N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters 
1362-1487), leading to the Pfal::; terrace 

The Museum (i f r. ; Sun. and Wed. free), has 
many historic and scientific curiosities, and the 



316 SWITZERLAND. Schaffhausen. 

largest Swiss picture-gallery, including many 
choice Holbeins (The Passion, etc.) and works 
of modern Swiss and Germans. The Histori- 
cal Museum (Sun. and Wed. 2-4, free; other 
days, except Mon., 10-12.30 and 2-4, ^ fr.) 
has many objects relating to Swiss history 
and also fragments of the 15th-century fresco 
of the Dance of Death. The University 
Library (reading room open 9-12.30 and 2.30- 
7) contains 250,000 volumes and 4,000 MSS. 
The Mission House, for education of mis- 
sionaries, is one of the powerful local thelogi- 
cal influences, and has an interesting museum 
(open daily). See the Toim Hall (1508) ; the 
Spahlen Gate (1400) ; the quaint fountains; St. 
Elizabeth's Church, with view from tower; and 
the Strassburg Monimient erected in 1895 in 
memory of the aid given to the women and chil- 
dren of Strassburg following the siege of 1870. 

Basle to Ducerne, direct, 55i M. ; fares, 9 fr. 
40 c, 6 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 40 c. It is better, how- 
ever, to go via the Falls of the Rhine and Lake 
Constance, by rly. up the Rhine. From Basle it 
is 59 M. (9^ fr., 6 fr. 30 c, 4 fr. 5 c.) to 

Schaifhausen (Miiller; Riesen; Rheinischer 
Hot), a picturesque town, with quaint, old fres- 
coed houses; a wall with 6 gates, and old tow- 
ers; a massive castle (1564) ; and a Romanesque 
Cathedral (1101). The bell inscribed Vivos voco, 
mortuos plango, fulgura frango, cast in 1486, is 
in room near cloisters, having been replaced by 
a new one cast in 1898. The Falls of the Rhine 
may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c, or 
tram). They are near Neuhausen stat iSchwei- 
zerhof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). 
Here the Rhine, 380-400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft. 



SWITZERLAND. Constance. 317 

in rapids, whirlpools, and 3 falls, over limestone 
ledges. It is the largest fall in Europe, and 
should be seen by moonlight, or under its morn- 
ing or late-afternoon rainbows. You may ascend 
the rock which divides the falls (3 fr.) ; or view 
them from Laufen castle (1 fr.), the best point, 
where the Fischetz platform should be visited. 
The falls are illuminated summer evenings by 
colored lights, for which a small charge is made 
in the hotel bill. 

Constance {Insel; Hecht; Halm; See), a de- 
cadent town of 25,000 inhab. The Cathedral 
(1502) has notable stained glass, bas-reliefs, 
cloisters, choir-stalls, and the stone on which 
John Huss is reported to have stood when sen- 
tenced. W. of the town is a stone marking where 
Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned alive 
(1415-16). In the frescoed Kaufhaiis (1^ fr.) 
the Council of Constance met (1414-18). See 
Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., the Ros- 
garten Museum of natural history and an- 
tiquities ( Sun. 10.30-12 and Wed. 2-5 free, other 
days i fr.), and former Dominican monastery, 
on an island, now converted into the Insel Ho- 
tel, with Romanesque cloisters. 

Ziirich (Hotel Baur an Lac; Bellevue; Na- 
tional; St. Gotthard; Slmplon), the largest city 
in Switzerland on the swift green river Lim- 
mat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Ziirich. 
Remarkable view (especially by moonlight) 
from bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, 
and distant Alps. Zurich is famous for learned 
schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of po- 
litical exiles. See the Romanesque Cathedral 
(12th century), with fine cloisters and statue of 
Charlemagne; Toicn Hall; the handsome Quai- 



318 SWITZERLAND. Lake Constance. 

Briicke (1885) ; See-Quai on the Lake, with 
promenade, the JSohe Promenade, with fine view ; 
LWrary, with rare MSS. ; Polytechnic School, 
splendid view from terrace; Kunsthaus, with 
Picture Gallery on second floor (10 or 1.30-5, ^ 
fr. Sun. and Wed. free) ; St. Augustine's Ch.; 
St. Peter's Ch., where Lavater preached 23 
years ; Arsenal, with Tell's bow. Zwinglius's 
battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with busts 
of de Candolle and other botanists. 

In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle be- . 
tween the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss 
National Museum (open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4 
or 5; free in afternoon, 1 fr. in morning). 
This contains a miscellaneous collection of ob- 
jects illustrating Swiss history, art, and indus- 
trial progress ; the collection of stained glass is 
particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. 
of the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; con- 
cert here every evening. 

Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in 
Latin Laciis Brigantinus) is very pretty in sum-- 
mer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss 
lakes. It is 42x8 M. in area, and 156^ M. 
around ; very deep ; with green water, abounding 
in trout ; flat, or undulating shores ; and distant 
views of the Alps of Vorarlberg and Appenzell. 
In 4 centuries it has frozen over but 15 times. 
It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria, Wiirt- 
emberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense 
traffic betu^een the lake-ports. 

The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, G M. S. W. of 
Zurich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in 
some places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; re- 
turn tickets, 5 fr., 3 fr.). The view includes 
Ziirich and its lake, the Limmat Valley, the 



SWITZERLAND. Lake of Zurich. 319 

Alps from the Sentis to the Junfrau, the Righi, 
Pilatus, the Juras, Vosges, and Black-Forest 
peaks. Magnificent views from road up. 

The Spliigen Pass. 

Ziirich (or Rohrschach) is a good point from 
which to visit the Splugen Pass. Very pleasant 
trip to its summit, although it is not the best 
route into Italy. Go by steamer (be careful to 
start from the right pier ; 2-2^ hrs. ; fares, 2 
fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Zii- 
rich, 25* X 2^ M. in area, with transparent blu- 
ish-green water reflecting the chain of happy 
shore- villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz 
and Glarus, to Rapperschwyl (Hotel du Lac; 
Schwan), which has the Lindenhof, 'Capuchin 
monastery, deer-park, and ancient castle, con- 
taining the Polish National Museum. Rly. from 
Zurich to Rapperschwyl, 22* M. ; fares, 4 fr. 70 
c, 2 fr. 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares, 12 fr. 30 
c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich from 
Rapperschwyl to ScTimerikon ; ascends the Linth 
valley; runs along the shore of the magnificent 
Lake of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper 
Rhine valley ; and runs S., through grand scen- 
ery, to 

Ragatz (Quellenhof and Ragatz, both united 
with the Casino; ScJitveizerhof ; Tamina; Bris- 
tol) favorite summer-resort at the mouth of the 
wonderful Tamina gorge, 2* M. up which are the 
hot saline baths of Pfdfcrs, amid very impres- 
sive rocky scenery, and cliffs GOO to 700 ft. high. 
A cable tramcar runs to the springs every * hr., 
round trip 1 fr. 30 c. These waters have been 
prized for 800 yeare. They are conducted to the 



320 SWITZERLAND. Coire.— Thusis. 

baths at Ragatz. Tlie philosopher Schelling is 
buried at Ragatz. 

The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th 
century Roman tower of Mayenfeld, and many 
pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to 

Coire (Steinbock; LuTcmanier; Drei Konige), 
the capital of the Canton of the Orisons (12,000 
inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and 
Roman towers, and nestling under the Mitten- 
berg. The Cathedral (12th century) contains a 
fine High Altar of carved wood, dating from 
1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The Epis- 
copal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded 
in 4th century), (^rand views from the Rosen- 
hiigel and other hills. 

The Spliigen Pass is reached twice daily by 
rly. from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 fr. 60 
c, 4 fr. 20 c. ), thence by diligence (4 hrs, ; 16 
M. ; fr. 65 c. ; coupe, 7 fr. 90 c). Thusis (Via 
Mala; Post; Adler) is a centre of grand excur- 
sons. Many tourists walk from here up through 
the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between cal- 
careous cliffs 1,600 feet high, with the Rhine 
roaring heavily below. Thousands of lives have 
been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this 
"Bad Way." The safe new road, with its tun- 
nels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone 
dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high; here 
the scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a 
cannon. 

The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams 
open out above ; and th© road passes Zillis, with 
its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch vil- 
lage; traverses the wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. 
long, by the Rhine cascades ; comes into view 
of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello peaks; and 



SWITZERLAND. The Engadtne. 321 

reaches Spliigen {Hotel Bodenhaus) , where the 
diligences all stop for dinner. 

Diligences twice daily from Spliigen to Chia- 
renna (10 fr., coup^" 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to 
Colico (3 fr., 2i fr., 11 fr.). It is about 7 M. 
from Spliigen to the top of the pass 6,945 ft. 
high, the Italian frontier line, with Surettahor- 
ner (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schneeliorn (10,- 
748 ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) 
on the other. The road descends by leagues of 
zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to 
the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna 
{Conradi; National), with its ruined castle and 
fine old ch. ; thence rly. down a mountain-gir- 
dled valley by Riva to Colico, on Lake Como. 

By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily 
to Mesocco (10 fr. 25), thence by electric ry. 
to Bellinzona (5f.5.) The road ascends the deso- 
late Rheinwald valley 8-9 M. to the top of the 
pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and 
glaciers ; and thence descends by long zig- 
zags, to San Bernardino, Mesocco, Cama, Rov- 
credo and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, 
rly.amid very grand scenery. From Bellinzona; 
14 M. to Locarno (| hr. ; 2 fr. 30 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 
1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake Como and 
Milan. 

The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent val- 
ley, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. 
wide, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps 
and glaciers. It is divided into the Upper En- 
gadine and the Lower Engadina; the former ex- 
tends 24 M. from the Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, 
a bridge crossing a small brook emptying into 
the Inn River; the latter, about 33 M. long, ex- 
tends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck on the 



322 SWITZERLAND. St. Moritz. 

Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near 
St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by 
English and Americans, and for those who need 
a cool, bracing air it is "a ^yonderful health re- 
sort, being particularly adapted to the outdoor 
treatment of consumption. 

From Coire the Albula railway (59^ M. ; 4 hrs. ; 
23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque 
mountain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and 
through 41 tunnels, one of them 4f M. in length, 
to 

St. Moritz (Kulm; Belvedere; Palace; Grand; 
Schiceizerhof; Savoy; Waldhaus), the highest 
settlement in the valley (6,000 ft), a village of 
2,000 inhabitants. Here is buried the founder 
of the Children's Aid Society of New York, Mr. 
Charles Loring Brace. There are grand moun- 
tain views from several points in the village. 
Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20 c.) 
are the 

Baths of St. Moritz (Neues Stahlhad; Vic- 
tcyria; Kurhaus; Du Lac; Bellcvue; Engadlner- 
hof) famous for chalybeate springs, impregnated 
with carbonic acid and alkaline salts. Alps and 
glaciers surround the place, and the air is in- 
vigorating to invalids. 

Pontresina {Roseg ; Weisses Kreuz; Lan- 
guard; Engadiner Hof; Palace), 7 M. from St. 
Moritz, is the starting-point for excursions in the 
Bernina chain. The season is short, prices high, 
and society good. 

The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,057 ft. high, 
is crossed by electric railway from Pontresina to 
Tirano (3* hr. ; 13 fr. 90, 12 fr. 70) ; then rly. 
to Colico, on Lake Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 17 
fr. 40). 



SWITZERLAND. Lucerne. 323 

Lucerne, The Rigi, the St. Gothard Route. 

Rly. from Basle (3i brs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 
fr, 60 e., 4 fr. 70 c.) ; or from Ziiricb. by Zug 
(6^ fr., 4 fr. 55 c, 3i fr.) ; or from Berne (11 fr., 
7i fi\, 5 fr. 30 c.) ; to 

Lucerne (on rigbt bank, Schiceizerhof ; Luzer^ 
nerliof; 'National; Sican and Rigi; cle VEurope, 
Tivoli; Montana; on left bank, Victoria; clu Lac; 
St. Gotthard; Bristol; Sauuage; Engel), beau- 
tifully situated at tbe outlet of tbe most lovely 
lake in Switzerland, between tbe Pilatus and 
Rigi, and facing tbe Alps of Uri and Engelberg. 
Tbe Town Hall bas ancient carvings ; and in tbe 
Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, stained 
glass. Tborwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a statue 
of a dying lion 28 ft. long, cut in tbe face of a 
cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of tbe 
Swiss Guard, wbo died in defence of tbe Tuil- 
eries in 1792. Capell Bridge, built 1303, over 
river Reuss, bas 154 old paintings on its roof, 
and ends at St. Peter's Chapel (12tb century). 
Tbe Water Toicer, according to tradition, was 
once a ligbt-bouse (lucerne), and gave name to 
tbe town. It now contains tbe arcbives. Tbe 
MiiJilen Bridge is ornamented witb 30 singular 
pictures of tbe Dance of Deatb ; tbe Kapell 
Bridge witb historical pictures and episodes in 
tbe lives of tbe two patron saints of tbe town, 
Sts. Mauritius and Leodegar, See also Museum 
and Library (90,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine 
animals (1 fr.) ; tbe Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and 
the Jesuit ch. Tbe ScMveizerhof and tbe Na- 
tional Quays are beautiful promenades with 
many trees, between the palatial hotels and the 
lake. 



324 SWITZERLAND. The Rigi. 

The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, 
the chief peak, the Kuhn, being 5,905 ft. high 
(4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly sur- 
rounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lo- 
werz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt. rly., like 
that on Mt. Washington, and has many hotels, 
among which are the Rigi-Kiilm; Rigi-Staffel ; 
Rigi-KaltTjad; Sonne.) Engage rooms in ad-, 
vance in July or August ; for then hundreds come 
up here to spend the night and see the sunrise. 
Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 2i hrs. 
from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to Vitz- 
nau, and mt. rly. thence (4^ M. ; 7 fr.). Circu- 
lar ticket, good 3 days, from Ziirich by Zug to 
the Rigi-Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to 
Lucerne, and back to Ziirich, costs 22 fr. 40 c, 
19f fr., 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a 
line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Ber- 
nese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, etc. ; else- 
where, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts., Black 
Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 
lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg, commanding a very 
noble view, is reached by branch rly. 

From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. : 2 fr. 20 
c, 1 fr. 10 c.) to Fliielen, up the superb Lake of 
Lucerne (Vierivaklstatter-See, or Lake of the 
Four Forest Cantons), the grandest in Europe, 
1,433 ft. high, 25 M. long, and -] M. wide. It 
forms an irregular cross, between vast mts. 
From the summer hotels at the numerous vil- 
lages — Beckenried. Gersau, Brunnen, etc.— fine 
mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond See- 
lisberg are the sacred springs of the Riitii, on 
whose meadow Fiirst, Erni, and Stauffacher 
founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is 
Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the 



SWITZERLAND. Altoef. 325 

ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler's 
boat. Marvellous scenery thence to the head of 
the lake. 

Superb views are had from several points near 
the city. The finest is from the Sonnen'berg (20 
min. by electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 
3 fr.) There is a golf course here near the ho- 
tel. A fine view of the mountains, the lake, 
and the town is also had from Giitsch, an eleva- 
tion to the west, reached by tram in 15 min. (re- 
turn ticket 90 c. ) . Another point where there is 
a good view is the Drei Linden, 20 min. by car- 
riage along a good road. 

Fluelen (Adler; Kreuz; Tell; Mooshad) is the 
port of Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Schliis- 
sel; Loive). Uri's capital in a mountain-walled 
valley, and the reputed scene of TelFs shooting 
the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. 
Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, 
near Btirglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. 
Nine M. beyoad Altorf is Amsteg {Stern; Kreuz ; 
Hirsch), where the Pass begins. This was the 
chief route over the Alps until 1800. The road 
was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander 
than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. 
runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 
9 M. long, built 1872-82, at a cost of over $10,- 
000,000. 

Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow 
Reuss valley, with the huge Bristenstock on the 
1. ; over the lofty Pfaffenspriing bridge; by Was- 
sen {Hotel des Alpes) and Wattingen, near 
Rohr'bacli fall and the Teufehtein; Geschcnen, 
at the mouth of the tunnel ; up steep ascents, and 
over the DcviVs Bridge, where French, Aus- 
trians, and Russians fought in 1799; through 



326 SWITZERLAND. Rhone Glacier. 

the Timer Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley ; and 
up to Andermatt {Bellevue; St. Gotthard ; 
Grand; Monopole), among high and arid mts. 
crowned with snow. See chapel, and mineral 
collections. Nine M. distant in the summit of the 
St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. high), whence road 
descends steeply by the Hospice to Airolo and 
Biasca, whence rly. to Milan. 

It is better to return from the top of the Pass, 
spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the 

Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken. 

From Andermatt diligence run in 5-6 hrs. (21 
M. ; 8* fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hespen- 
thal {Meyerhof; Loice), 2* M. out; and by a 
zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful 
scenery, to the top of the Furca Pass {Hotel dc 
la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; past the grand and 
lofty Galenstock and Furkahorn ; and thence to 
the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of ice, 10,- 
450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy peaks, 
and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. Long- 
fellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- 
ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. 
You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; 
10^ fr. ; coupe. 12 fr. 75 c.) whence rly. to Visp, 
en route to Zermatt. It is better to pass the 
night at the Hotel du Glacier du Rlione : and at 
morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the steep grassy 
Maiemcand ; up over the Grimsel Pass (7.103 ft. 
high) ; by the Lake of the Dead, in which the 
soldiers killed in the battles between the French 
and Austrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried ; 
down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), 
in the rocky mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near 



SWITZERLAND. Meiringen.— Brienz. 327 

the Agassizhorn and the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 
hrs. from the Unter-Aar Glacier, where Prof. 
Agassiz abode in 1841 (excursion to top of Little 
Sidelhoru, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4 f r. ) ; down the Aar 
ravine to the Handeck Falls (1^ fr.) ; where the 
icy river precipitates itself 250 ft, in a deep 
rocky gorge; by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn 
meadows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads 
to 

Meiringen {Sauvage; Meiringenhof; Cou- 
roune; de VOurs) is beautifully situated in the 
Hasli valley near the Reichenbach Falls. It was 
almost totally destroyed by fire in October, 1891. 
but has been rebuilt. From behind the Chalet 
I'Ami you can descend into the canon of the 
Aar. It is 5| hrs. hence to Handeck Falls 
(horse up and back, 15 fr.). 

The Briinig Pass is one of the most frequented. 
Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be as- 
cended) by steamer (IJ hrs.), and thence by 
rail (10 fr.) to Brienz, via Meiringen. You 
pass the pretty hamlet of 8arnen, in a rich val- 
ley between high mts. ; Sachseln, with a saint's 
relics in its ch. ; over the Briinig Pass, 3,395 ft. 
high {Hotel BrihiigJcuhn) ; and then downward, 
with magnificent mt. views, to the Aar, where 
you meet the valley road. We advise the tourist 
to go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gotthard, 
and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- 
ingen. You may go thence to the top of the 
Briinig in a morning. 

Brienz (Bar; Weisses Kreuz), on the moun- 
tain-walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are em- 
ployed here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x21- 
M., and the deepest in Switzerland. It is tra- 
versed by the whitish-green waters of the Aar. 



328 SWITZERLAND. Ixteelaken. 

The Giessbach is a series of 7 beautiful cascades, 
falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant 
herbage and stately trees, and illuniinated at 
night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from 
the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the 
hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). 
By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz ; thence by 
■ footpath in 20 min. Steamer from Briena, 7 
times daily (2 fr., 1 fr.), to InterlaJcen. 

The Bernese Oberland. 

Interlaken (Victoria; Metropole; Jungfrau; 
fles Alpes; Belvidere; Jungfrauhlick; Soidw; 
Cerf; Oherlmider; Bellevue; Stadhaus; Na- 
tional; Park; Savoy) in the beautiful glen "be- 
tween the lakes" of Brienz and Thun, is the main 
rendezvous of tourists during the high season 
(July 15 to Oct. 1), and the best point for trips 
in any part of the Bernese Oberland. People 
remaining 2-3 weeks in this great town of ho- 
tels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the 
pensions at 5-6 fr. See the magnificent Hohe- 
weg promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the 
Kiirsaah with concerts twice daily ; the old 
wooden village of Unterseen; the ruined castles 
of Unsprimnen and Weissenau; and the pre- 
cipitous Harder mt., where many fatal accidents 
have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are 
crowded with people of fashion; and parties, 
balls, and receptions continually occur. 

Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are 
printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), 
and are adhered to by drivers. Local guide 
books (in English) describe routes and local- 
ities. Grindlev/ald (Bar; Schonegg; Adler; Ah 



SWITZERLAND. Lauterbeunnen. 329 

penruhe) is reached by railway or private con- 
veyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in a 
valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Metten- 
berg, and Biger. 

Lauterbrunnen (SteinhocTc; StauMach) is 
71 M. from Interlaken, in a narrow rock- 
girt glen, close to the famous Staubbach 
(dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft 
high. Farther up the glen are the grand 
SchmadriMch Fall and the far-viewing Stein- 
berg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is 
gained by climbing (2f hrs.) to Miirren {Grand 
Hotel des Alpes; Miirren; Jung f ran; Eiger), a 
hamlet 5,347 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which 
fronts on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. 
The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can 
now be made by cable and electric rly. (return 
tickets, 6 fr.). Large English colony here, July- 
September, with church. Grand views of Jung- 
frau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion 
thence to the SchmgelJiorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide 
necessary; return, 3 hrs.). 

Prom Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the 
"Wengernalp; by the Hotel de la Jungfrau, 
whence is the finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 
ft. high; over the Little Scheidegg {Hotel Belle- 
vue), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views; and 
down to Grindelwald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.) ; 
or one can go (less desirable) by rly. 

Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7^ hrs. 
walk, or horseback ride), by the grand ReicJien- 
lyach Fall; the Baths of Rosenlaui {Kiirhaus), 
near the Rosenlaui Glacier; over the Great 
Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft. high ; and down by the 
Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of 
Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and from the low 



330 SWITZERLAND. LakeofThun. 

Grind elalp. Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen or 
Interlaken. 

The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from In- 
terlaken (Interlaken to Thun, 4-5 times daily, 
in li hr. ; 4 fr. 10 c), 12x2^ M. in area, and 
1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its 
banl^s, back of which rise vast mts. As the 
steamer leaves Diirlingen. fine retrospect of the 
Monch, Eiger. and Schreckhorn. 

The Gemini. — From Spiez (Spiezerhof, lake 
baths; Schonegg), road into the Frutigthal (2^ 
hrs. ; also from Thun) and to Kandersteg {Vic- 
toria). Ry. to Frutigen. l-horse carriage, 
Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 
18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle path 
leads over the Gerami pass (7,553 ft. high), amid 
magnificent scenery, and down to the Baths of 
Leuk (23i M. ; guide, 7 f r. ; horse, 20 fr. : horse 
to top of pass, 15 fr.) The steamer touches at 
Spiez, Ohcrhofen. etc., and backs down the Aar 
to Scherzligen close to Thun (Hotel de Thun; 
Belleviic; Beau Rivage ; Freienlwf). a prettily 
situated village, with quaint street-architecture; 
a castle built in 1182 ; the Federal Military 
School ; and numerous fashionable summer ho- 
tels. Rly. to Berne. 1 hr. (3 fr. 35 c, 2 fr. 35 c, 
1 fr. 70 c.) 

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva. 

Berne (Bernerhof and Belle vue, both with fine 
views of the Bernese Alps; Schweizerliof : de la 
Poste, Bar, Metropolc. Cigogne), the capital of 
Switzerland (80,000 inhab.), on a sandstone pen- 
insula high over the Aar, has pleasant arcaded 
streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and 



SWITZERLAND. Bern. 331 

is a favorable place to rest after journeying im 
the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1598). 
with quaint carvings and famous organ. From 
the Cathedral-Terrace, one may see the en- 
tire Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Finster-Aar- 
horn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beau- 
tiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpenglow ; 
beautiful views are also to be had from the 
Kleine Schanze, Grosse Schanze, Kursaal 
Schanzli, and De Gurten, and the Enge near 
Berne. See the statues of Adrian von Bul^en- 
Jyerg, of Rudolph von Erlach, a victorious general 
of the Bernese in the battle of Laupen in 1339, 
and of Berthold von Zdhrmgen, the founder of 
Berne in 1191; the Monument to the Interna- 
tional Postal Union; the Kirchenfeld and Korn- 
haus 'bridges; the numerous fountains, espe- 
cially the Ogre fountain; the Bear-Pit, with 
bears, maintained at the cost of the muni- 
cipality: Arsena?, and military curiosities ; Clock- 
Toicer, built in 1191, with quaint automata ; 
Corn-Hall, over great wine cellars ; and the 
Rathhaus built in 1406. The Federal Buildings, 
Bundeshaus, open 9-11.30, 1.30-4. free) are three 
noble Florentine edifices (1857, 1892, and 1901). 
The houses of the national legislature meet here. 
From roof of older building there is a famous 
view of the Alps and city. Visit Historical 
Museum (9-12, 2-4, ^ fr., Tues. and Sat. free) ; 
Art Museum (9-12, 1-5, * fr.. Sun. and Tues. 
free), mostly modern paintings; National His- 
torjj Museum (hours vary. adm. | fr. : Sun.. Tues.. 
and Sat. free) ; Alpine Mu.^eum (9-12, 1.30-5, f 
fr. Sun. free). From Berne by ry. in li hr.. 
(fares 3^ fr., 1 fr. 85 c.) to 



332 SWITZERBAND. Freiberg.— Lausanne. 

Freiburg {Hotel Suisse; Terminus), founded 
(like Berne) by Berthold von Zabringen in 1175, 
and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a 
nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic 
Church of St. Nicholas (built 1283), in which 
is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have 
the richest tone in the world (concert 1.30 and 8 
p. m. summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16-century 
Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stair- 
way to the lower town ; and the Suspension 
Bridge, 800 ft. long and 168 ft. abore the river. 

The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one 
of the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take 
seat on 1. side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its 
picturesque shores. Exquisite view after emerg- 
ing from the tunnel beyond Chexhres (the stat. 
for Vevay). 

Lausanne (Richetnant; Beau Sejour; Cecil; 
Beau Site; Alexandra; de la Paix; Gihbon, 
where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with 
its lovely views over the lake, has become a 
favorite summer-resort and place of residence 
(64,000 inhab.). See Gothic Cathedral (Pro- 
testant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and others 
held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in 
Protestantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps 
from the market-place ; and the plain symmetri- 
cal interior is 300 feet long. Organ recitals (1 
fr.) are given here Mon. and Thurs. afternoons. 
The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council- 
Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two 
museums. From the Signal, half an hour walk 
out, the best view is gained. 

Continue on this route, by the lovely villages 
of Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to 

Geneva (right bank, G-rand Hotel de la Paix; 



bWITZERLAND. Geneva. 333 

des Bergnes; Bean Rivage; de Russie; Riche- 
mont; Bristol; de Bourgogne; left bank, 2Ictro- 
pole; du Lac; de VEiirope; du Pare; de VEcu), 
a city of 125,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at 
the foot of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into 
two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone. 
The favorite promenade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge, 
crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island, 
on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, 
lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face 
the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont 
Blanc from the Qual du Mont-Blanc and the pier 
beyond; here also is the vast Brunswick Monu- 
ment. The Cathedral (Protestant), "the St. 
Peter's of the North," is a plain 13th-century 
building, containing several old monuments. 
Organ recitals at 8.15 Mon., Wed., and Sat. in 
summer (adm. 1 fr.). Here Calvin preached. 
His house is. close by ; and his grave is in Plain- 
Palais cemetery. Rousseau's birthplace was No. 
40 Grande Rue. See Miisee d'Art et d'Histoire, 
containing the art collections formerly in the 
Musee Rath and the antiquities formerly in the 
Miisee Fol ; inquire regarding hours of adm.,. 
which vary for the separate collections. See also 
Florentine Hotel de Ville, with inclined planes 
instead of stairs; Natiotial Monument, bronze 
group by the lake; the University (1868-72), 
with large library and MSS., and famous natural 
history collections; Musee Ariana (10-4. 1 fr., 
free Thurs. and Sun.) in the environs with the 
adjacent Botanical Garden. 

Excursions. — To Ferney, 4* M. N. W. (hourly 
electric tram over a route rich in views), where 
Voltaire founded a town, built factories, a chat- 
eau, and a ch. (inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ; 



334 SWITZERLAND. Coppet.— Nyon. 

to the imposing Rothschild villa, at Pregny; to 
the SaUve, 4 M. S. E., a limestone mt. 4,278 ft. 
high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc 
chain, the Juras, and the Lake of Geneva ; to 
Les Voirons, another far-viewing mt. ; to the 
villas where dwelt Voltaire, Bj^ron, Lola Montez, 
and the Empress Josephine ; to the French 
stronghold of Foi't de V Eel use; and to the Perte 
du Rhone, where, at low water, the river van- 
ishes in a deep canon. 

The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of 
the Romans, and Lae Lemmi of the French, is 
the largest Swiss lake, being about 50x9 M. (225 
sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It 
is in the form of a half-moon. The water is 
deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never 
freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, 
strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire and 
Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised its 
magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the 
shores, but have little commerce on the water. 
Capital steamboats ply here. 

The S. coast boat runs in 4^-5 hrs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) 
by Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Eviar. (Ho- 
tel d'Evian; Splendide; Royal; de Paris), a 
beautiful and fashionable French summer-re- 
sort, with fine views of Lausanne; to Bouveret, 
at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny). 

The better route is along the N. shore, 4^ hrs. 
(7^ fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a 
French town; Coppet {Du Lac) whose castle 
was long time the home and is now the burial- 
place of Necker, the famous finance-minister, and 
his daughter, Madame de Stael ; Nyon {Hotel des 
Alpes; National), a lovely village, with massive 
12th century castles, and a splendid view of 



SWITZERLAND. Vevey.— Neufchatel. 335 

Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of La Harpe, to 
whom an obelisk has been raised on an adjacent 
island; Morges {Hotel clii Mont Blanc), with a 
castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Bur- 
gundy ; Ouchy (Hotel Beau Bivage; clii Fare; 
Royal), whence rl. in 6 m. (50 c, 25 c.) to 
Lausanne; Corsier, close to the imposing and 
far-reaching Ch^and Hotel cle Vevey, in gardens 
of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevey ( Gh'and H6- 
tel de Vevey; du Pont; du Lac; Mooser; dit 
Chateau; des Alpes), a sheltered nook with 
semi-tropical climate, much visited by invalids 
and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rous- 
seau's Noiivelle Heloise; Clarens, with many 
villas and pensions, and natural beauties ex- 
tolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Montreux 
(Loriiis: Montreux Palace; Suisse), a shelter 
for consumptives ; to Villeneuve, at the end of 
the lake (ry; to Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk 
thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; 
entrance, 50 c), whose dungeons and their illus- 
trious prisoner have been immortalized by By- 
ron. See Rocher de Naye, a beautiful mountain 
place above Territet, between Chillon and Mon- 
treux, at the E. end of the Lake of Geneva. 

l^euchatel (Bellevue; des Alpes; du Lac; So- 
leil; Vaisseau), 2 hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, 
stands on an amphitheatrical slope of the Jura, 
sloping down to the lake, and is famous for 
watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it 
nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, 
museums. Library (150,000 vols.), College, Pic- 
ture-Gallery (10-12.30, 1.30-4, i fr., Sun. and 
Thurs. free) of fine modern Swiss paintings, an- 
cient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz 
was once a professor here. The Lake of Neu- 



336 SWITZERLAND. St. Maurice. 

chatel, 24x5 M. in area, lies at the foot of the 
Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At 
its S. end is Yverdon {Hotel de Londres), where 
Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805-25). 
Steamboats run from Neuchatel to Estavayer, 
and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, famous in 
Roman and Burgundian history. To the N., 
1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Ber- 
nese town of 8,000 inhab., near Chasseral mt. 
The Lake of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the 
Peterinsel, where Rousseau took refuge when 
driven from Geneva (in 1765). 

Chamonix and Mont Blanc. i 

From Geneva to Chamonix by rail — steam to 
Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The 
journey takes only a few hours. France is en- 
tered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. 
Fare 12 fr. 15; 7 fr. 20. One can also go by 
steamer to Villeneuve, thence by rail to Martigny 
— a pleasant way. Ascending the Rhone Valley 
from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand 
Hotel d' Aigle), a pleasant summer-resort; and 
Bex {Grand Hotel des Salines: de Bex), whence 
route to Sion, across the Col de Che^■ille. Beau- 
tiful views of the Dent du Midi, while nearing 
St. Maurice {Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). 
This is a very old town with a 4th century ab- 
bey, enshrining rare curiosities ; a stalactite 
grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Beyond 
Evionnaz stat. see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) 
on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz 
{Hotel des Gorges; des A //)e&'), which is also very 
near the celebrated Gorge du Trient. Martigny 
{Hotel Clerc; de Mt. Blanc; St. Bernard) 



SWITZERLAND. Chamottnix. 337 

is starting point of the routes over the Simplon 
(to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard 
(to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamonix. 
You can visit Chamonix ; ascend to the top of 
the St. Bernard : return to Martigny ; and go 
thence over the Simplon. 

The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamonix, 
8-9 hrs. ; omnibus 16 fr. fee 1 fr., carriage 40 
fr. fee, 3-5 fr. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc 
group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balme {Hotel 
Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between 
Swiss Yalais and French Savoy, with amazing 
prospect of mts. 

Chamonix {Coiittet et du Pare; C achat et du 
Mont Blanc; de Paris; Royal et de Saussure; 
Savoy; Belvedere; Beau-Site), in Arve valley, 
3,445 ft. high, at foot of Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 
visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres 
for Alpine tourists. Rooms ^should be secured 
in advance. The whole valley is worthy of 
study, and has scores of points of interest. 
Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) 
may be obtained at cnief guide's office. Ifi a day 
you may ascend the Montanvert (easy bridle- 
path, 2i hrs., cog-wheel rly. in 55 min. 12 fr. 50 ; 
8 fr. 25), where Tyndall studied glacier move- 
ment ; cross the wonderful Mer de Glace to the 
rocky cliffs of the Cliapeau (path in the ice, 1^ 
hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to Les 
Praz; climb thence to La Fleo^re (path in 2^ 
hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence mag- 
nificent view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, 
Aiguille Yert, Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to 
Chamonix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may 
visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is 
among the rocks on the Glacier de TaUfrc, where 



338 SWITZERLAND. Mont Blanc. 

Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brevent. 
one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 8,284 ft. high, com- 
manding the best view of Mont Blanc, may be 
climbed by path in 4 hrs. 

Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,- 
781 ft.), on the boundary between France and 
Italy, was first ascended in 1786. Many parties 
now asecend yearly (3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, 
for guides, etc.). Many valuable lives have 
been lost here, but in fine weather and with 
due caution there is little danger. First day's 
climb to stone huts on Grands Mulets (10,007 
ft. ) ; second, to summit and back ; third, from 
Grands Mulets to Chamonix. 

The Tete-Noire affords a good route from 
Chamonix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can 
now go by electric tram to Argent iere; across 
the Col cles Montets; near the Poyaz and Bar- 
herine Cascades; through Valorcine village and 
Le Cliatelard ; through the rocky Tetc-Xoire 
pass ; and down through Trient to Martigny. 

The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes. — Zermatt. 

Martigny to the Hospice 9-12 hrs., a very in- 
teresting journey. Start at morn. (2-horse 
carriage, 40 fr. and gratuity) ; or electric rly. to 
Orsieres (12 M., 1 hr., 4 fr. 60, 3 fr.), thence 
diligence (16 M., 8 hrs., 6 fr. 50) to breakfast, 
and return to Martigny after noon. In winter 
diligence to Bourg St. Pierre only. The road 
ascends the Dranse valley to Orsieres (Hotel 
des Alpcs) ; climbs steeply 5 M- to Liddes (St. 
Bernard), whence mule and guide to Hospice, 
by Bourg St. Fierie (Dejeuner de Xapoleon) and 
Cantine de Proz; 7 M. distant, through the De- 



SWITZERLAND. St. Bernard. 339 

file de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. 
Bernard Hospice, 8,120 ft. above the sea, occu- 
pied since 962 by French Augustinian monks, 
who give free hospitality to all travellers. 20,- 
000 peasants are fed here every year ; and in 
summer many tourists come. No charge is made 
for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money 
in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very 
rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- 
visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's 
monument to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great 
library ; the Morgue ; and the noble dogs. The 
pass has been crossed by vast armies of Ro- 
mans, Lombards, Franks, and Germans ; and in 
1799 heavy fighting occurred here between the 
^ustrians and Napoleon's troops. 

It is 6 hrs. hence to Aosta. in Italy. 
Zermatt {Victoria; Mont-Ceruin; Schiceitzer- 
liof; Beau Site; Goniergrat), is approached from 
Martingy by railway, passing through Yispach. 
The traveller will find this a characteristic Al- 
pine route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky 
peaks, with vast mountains in advance. The 
village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), 
continuously inhabited, and is in the very heart 
of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and 
overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and 
other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of 
several famous men who lost their lives on these 
mts. The Riff elberg (with hotel) is 3 hrs. dis- 
tant, by bridle-path ; and 1^ hr. beyond is the 
rocky crest of Gornergrat, 10,290 ft. high, with 
superb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids 
(10.132 ft.), on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn 
(13,085 ft.), on the S. ; the craggy Matterhorn 
(14,705 ft), on the W. ; the Dent Blanche, Ga- 



340 SWITZERLAND. The Simplon. 

belborn, Morning, the Mischabel and the Alla- 
leinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry. now 
completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner 
Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the 
Mer de Glace ; the Fimlelen Glacier; and to the 
Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The 
m. Th6odule Pass leads to Aosta, Monte Rosa 
(15,217 ft.) offers a safe, but fatiguing climb 
(up and back, 12-14 hrs.). The fatal Matter- 
horn is ascended by several parties yearly (a 
severe 2-days' trip). 

The Simplon.— Rly. Martigny to Brieg in 2^ 
hrs. (8 fr. 20, 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 10), by Saxon-les- 
Bains, with iodated waters, good for skin dis- 
eases ; beautiful Sion (Hotel de la Paste; SuL<ise; 
Terminus) with old castles, GrOthic cathedral, 2 
fine old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; medieval Sierra 
(Bellevue), with the chateaux of the Valais 
nobles ; LeuJi:, a few miles from the Baths 
of Leuk, French Loeche (Hotel des Alpes; Belle- 
vue De France), and at the foot of the Gemmi 
Pass; and Visp (Hotel de la Paste), thence to 
Brieg (Hotel d'Angleterre; Victoria; Couronne) . 
About a mile from here the rly. enters the Sim- 
plon tunnel, 12J miles long, completed in 1906, 
emerging at Nolle and then passing through 
many tunnels and across deep gorges to Dome 
d'Ossolo. Diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 
9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 11 fr. 80 c. ; two-horse 
carriage, 40 fr.), to Domo d'Ossolo. Napoleon 
built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,- 
600,000 for a military route into Italy. There 
are numerous houses of refuge where the road 
nears the glaciers. The crest of the pass is 6,- 
594 ft. high, in an open valley among glaciers. 
Beyond, near Monte Leone, is the Hospice, whose 



SWITZERLAND. The Simplon. 341 

monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnifi- 
cent mt.-scenery on upper reaches of pass. The 
road descends 5* M. to Simplon (Poste), and 
through the Gon'do Ravine. Half a mile beyond 
the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes 
down, by several villages, through wild and pic- 
turesque gorges, by the Crevola Gallery, and 
over the lofty Doverie Bridge, to Domo d'Os- 
sola. (See page 344.) 



J 



i 



ITALY. Mt. Cexis Tuxel. 343 



ITALY. 

THE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and 
centesiml, which correspndo to francs and 
centimes. The paper money consists of notes of 
5, 10 and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits ; also 
of taking large bank notes in one city which may 
not be good in another. See Chapter on Travel, 
for general observations on Italy. Many com- 
plaints have been made of thefts from baggage 
on the Italian railways. It is well, therefore, 
not to carry valuable jewelry or money in 
trunks. 

Routes Into Italy. 

1. Paris to Turin, by Mt. Cenis,496f M. Route 
leads through Fontainebleau. Tonnerre, Mont- 
bard (Buffon's home). Dijon. Macon, Culoz, 
Chambery. and Modane (frontier stat. ; change 
cars). The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was 
built 1861-71, at a cost of S15,000,COO. Trains 
for Italy run through it in 45 min. ; trains for 
France, in 25 min. 

2. Paris to Genoa, hy Marseilles and Nice, 
790^ M. Rly. from Genoa via Alessandria, to 
Turin: or from l^avi)na. W. of Genoa, to Turin. 

8. Geneva to Milan, by the Sim]>lon. see p. 340. 

4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see 

p. 323), through Fltielen. Airolo, and Bellinzcma. 



344 ITALY. Domo d'Ossola. 

and thence rly. by Como. Or rly. through from 
Lucerne to Milan. 

5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chia- 
venna and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and 
rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to 
Bellinzona, whence rly. Or by Julier and Ber- 
nina Passes, Coire to Samaden, Tirano, and 
Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to 
Milan. 

6. BasJe to Milan, by the Stelvio. Rly. to 
Colico; steamer and rly. to Milan. 

7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 
304. 

8. Vienna to Venice, by the Semmering, all rly., 
by Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scen- 
ery. Or rly. from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer 
thence to Venice. 



The Tour of the Italian Lakes. 

Domo d'Ossola (Hotel Terminus; de la Ville) 
is a pretty southern village, with a charming 
view from the Calvary, I hr. distant. Railway 
to Novara (55 M.) passing the ruined castle of 
Vogogna; Ornavasso, with a castle of the Vis- 
conti, and the quarries whence Milan Cathedral 
was hewn ; Gravellona ; through the valley of the 
Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of 
Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beau- 
tiful views, to Gozzano ; through the valley of the 
Agogna to Novara, whence Milan can be reached 
by rly. in IJ hr. Diligence from Gravellona to 
Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore (6 M.) ; to Stresa 
(7^ M.). It is wise to make a tour of the lakes 
(1-2 days) before going to Milan. 



ITALY. Lake Maggiore. 345 

Lake Maggiore, 37x3 M. in area, and of vast 
depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and 
vineyards on the S., and the great mts. on the 
N. There are marble and granite quarries on 
its shores, and rich mines. Arona {San Got- 
tardo; Simplon), on the S., is an old town, with 
rar<^ paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper 
and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. Charles 
Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal- Arch- 
bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head 
will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it inside). 
Steamer from Arona to Locarno calls at Stresa 
(Hotel des lies Borromees; Belleviie) with its 
fine monastery and cypress-trees ; and Baveno 
(Grand Hotel Bellevue; Bean Rlvage; BeUevue; 
Siniiylon). The shores are lined with villas; 
and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, 
St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borromean 
Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter's 
description). Isola Bella (Hotel dii Dauphin) 
has the great palace and park of the Borromeo 
family (open daily; 1 1.), rising over 10 terraces 
of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains. Isola 
Madre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces 
laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, 
and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 
5 1. first hr., 1 1. others. Opposite is Cannero. 
among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' 
castles off-shore. Lovely villages appear on 
either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Lo- 
carno (Beau Rivage; Locarno; Reiser; du Pare; 
Metropole), in the Swiss Canton of Ticino, 
to which the upper part of the lake belongs. 
See ch., with good pictures ; Cantonal buildings ; 
and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, vis- 
ited by myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Bel- 



346 ITALY. Lake Lugano. 

linzona, whence diligence over the Splugen. Re 
turn by boat to 

Luino (Hotel dii Simplon; Post; Vittoria), a 
favorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace 
and Garibaldi's statue. The Ch. of San Pietro 
has fresco by Luini. Steam tramway (1 hr.) to 
Ponte Trem, thence steamboat (50 min.) to 
Lugano {Hotel clii Pare; Grand; Splendide; 
Bellevue; Metropole; St. Gothard; Berna; Bris- 
tol; Beau Regard), a Swiss cantonal capital, 
inhabited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and 
rich villas. See 8. Loretii^o Ch.; Sta. Maria, 
with Luini*s frescos ; William Tell's statue ; and 
old convents and palaces. Excursion to Mt. S. 
Salvador (2,982 ft. high) in 2 hrs. (guide and 
horse, 7 1.). View of Alps. 

Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs 
among the mts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss 
on one side, Italian on the other, in a cli- 
mate of perpetual spring, and amid very lovely 
scenery. The adjacent peaks overlook the Lom- 
bard plain, down to Milan. Steamer from Lu- 
gano, by Osteno, near a remarkable grotto, to 
Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitheatre of 
hills ; or S. to Capolago. whence railway to 
Como. Steam tramway (about 9 M. ) from Por- 
lezza, by Piano and Croce. and through a rich 
country, with Lake Como below^ and the Alps in 
sight from the Spliigen to the Orther Spitz, to 
Menaggio {Menaggio. Vittoria. Corona) , on Lake 
Como. This is a good point for excursions ; and 
on the hill is the Villa Vigoni, with fine sculp- 
tures. 

Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, 
is shaped like the letter Y. and is 32 M. long, 2-3 
M. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the love- 



ITALY. Lake Como. 347 

liest lakes in the world, and its natural charms 
of mts., vineyards, and forests are heightened by 
the white Italian hamlets and the splendid villas 
of Milanese families. Cross to Bellaggio {Grande 
Bretagne; Genazzini; Bellaggio; Villa Serltel- 
loni; Splendide; Florence; du Lac), a favorite 
Anglo-American resort. The Villa Melzi (Sun., 
Thurs., Sat., 1 lira) has splendid sculptures (by 
Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden. 
From Villa Serl)elloni, befet view on the lake. 
Across the lake is Cadennabbia (Bellevue; Belle 
lie; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Carlotta 
(fee 11.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and 
Thorwaldsen. . Steamer from Bellaggio to Coliro 
{Croce d'Oro), whence rly. to Chiavenna and 
over the Spltigen, or to Tirano and over the Stel- 
vio, to Switzerland. From Colico one can take 
steamer through the lake, noting castles of Musso 
and many beautiful hamlets, to Como {Hotel 
Volta; Italia; Metropole; Plinius), a place of 
35,000 inhab., with statues of its eminent natives, 
the elder and the younger Pliny, and Volta, the 
electrician. See marble Lombard-Gothic Cathe- 
dral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guido, Ver- 
onese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring; 
Ch. of Crocefisso, richly adorned ; basilica of K. 
Abhondio. 1 M. out; ancient Porta della Torre: 
and handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steam- 
ers run from Bellaggio down the picturesque 
Lake of Lecco. an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the 
foot of the high Resegone peaks (rly. to Milan). 
The Lake of Orta, 9x1 ^ M. in area, is charm- 
ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Om- 
nibus (2^1.) from Arona to Orta {^^. Giulio ; 
Orta; Belvedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a 
promontory, near the Sacro Monte, a height 



348 ITALY. Milan. 

dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte 
Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15xl§ M. in area, 
winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries 
and figs and gardens of roses and camellias. 
Railway from Brescia (15 M.) to Iseo (Hotel 
Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Saniwo and 
Lovere. — The great Lake of Garda, 37x10 xvl. in 
area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue waters, 
abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is 
traversed by steamboats, running from Desen- 
zano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near 
the battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Ver- 
ona railway, to Riva (Hotel Lido), a beautiful 
village at the N. end. 

The North-Italian Cities. 

Milan (Hotel de la Ville; Cavour; Palace; 
M^tropole; Milan; Roma; Europa; Manin; de 
France) is a beautiful and enterprising city (590,- 
000 inhab. ) , 9 M. around, in the centre of the rich 
Lombard plain. It was founded 400 B.C. ; a cap- 
ital in the 3d-century ; sacked by Attila in 452 ; 
a Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne ; 
destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162 ; re- 
built by the Lombard League ; governed by the . 
Visconti and Sforza families, 1312-1545 ; con- 
quered by Francis I., in 1515 ; annexed by Charles 
V. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of 
Italy, 1805-14 ; an Austrian garrison, 1814-59 ; 
and since then Italian. Manzoni was born here : 
also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied here. 

The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only 
to St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was 
built 1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double 
aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pil- 



ITALY. Milan. 349 

lars, each 12 ft. in diameter, witli niches crowded 
with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, 
and 155 ft. high. It contains 6,000 statues, a 
pavement of marble mosaic, vast granite mono- 
liths, superb stained windows, many tombs of 
magnates, San Carlo Borromeo's wooden crucifix 
and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of 
saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble 
roof (entered from r. transept, 5 a.m. till dusk, 
25 c), with ninety-eight Gothic turrets, hundreds 
of pinnacles, and over two thousand life-size 
marble statues some by Canova, should be 
carefully studied. Ascend (at early morn) to the 
upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 
360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apen- 
nines, and Alps (Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, 
Rosa, Matterhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, 
Spliigen, Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, 
with telescope. 

Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor-Em- 
manuel Gallery, the finest arcade in the world ; 
built in 1865-7 at a cost of $17600,000; 960 ft. 
long, 48 wide, 94 high, surrounded by handsome 
shops ; richly frescoed ; and auorned with statues 
of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other 
famous Italians. The octagon under the dome 
(180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at night, when 
it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent 
Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's mon- 
ument (1872), the massive Municipal Palace 
(1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 
3,600 sittings (1 1. to see building; famous ballets 
here, in season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of 
Sati Fedele (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit 
college (1675), is a great palace built around a 
quadrangle adorned with statues ; it contains 



350 ITALY. Milan. 

a library of 300,000 vols, and a celebrated gal- 
lery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1.; free on Sunday) of 
400 paintings and sculptures (get catalogue). 

Tbe Piazza de'Armi, N.W. of Milan, bas tbe 
Arena built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 
spectators ; tbe Castle of tbe Sforzas, built 1358 ; 
and tbe great triumpbal marble Arch, ending tbe 
Simplon route, founded by Napoleon (1804) to 
record bis victories, an^ finished by Austria 
(1830), with reliefs showing tbe victories over 
France. Grand statues on summit. Tbe Corso 
Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business street, 
and contains »S'. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the 
Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Pi- 
azza dei Mercanti. with Exchange and 13th-cen- 
tury palace of the Podesta ; Piazza Beccaria, 
with statue of Beccaria ; and the Roman. Gari- 
baldi, and Tosa Gates. St. Ambrogio, founded 
by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a Romanes- 
que cb., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- 
tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9tb-century mosaics, 
Stilicho's sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of 
Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christi- 
anity ; Ambrose closed tbe gates against the Em- 
peror Theodosius ; and the Lombard and German 
sovereigns received the Iron Crown. In the re- 
fectory (1 1.), near the rich old abbey-ch. of »Sf. 
Maria delle Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo 
da Vinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See 
the 4th-century octagonal *S'. Lorenzo, and its 
colonnade ; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable 
paintings, sculptures, and atrium; ^S". Maurizio, 
with Luini's frescos. The Ambrosian Library 
(open 10-3, i fr.), founded (1609) by Cardinal 
Borromeo, bas 175,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many 
literary curiosities and several hundred paint- 



ITALY. La Certosa. — Pavia. 351 

iugs. The Civic Museum (* fr.) has large nat- 
ural-history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, 
restored 1893, contains the Municipal Art and 
Archaeological Museum (adm. 1 fr., Thu. 4 fr., 
Sun. 20 c). See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), 
a vast hospital with 9 courts ; Military Hospital: 
Manzoni's house ; palaces of Borromeo, Litta. 
Omoneni, Trivulzio, and Ciani families ; Ceme- 
teri/, with cremation-temple; Piihlic Park, where 
Exhibition of 1906 was held; Archlti shop's Pal- 
ace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565) ; 
and Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napo- 
leonic frescos. 

La Certosa (1 hr. by rly.), in a fertile and 
populous plain, was one of the most sumptuous 
monasteries in the world, and belonged to the 
Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Yis- 
conti ; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 
1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, 
mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded 
with precious things. The rich Renaissance fa- 
gade (1473) is in colored marbles, with delicate 
carvings. Grand cloisters, with slender marble 
pillars and monks' houses. 

Pavia {Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Be) is a 
little way S. See unfinished Cathedral fagade 
and dome built 1S98 ; Promenade, along Ticino 
River; Uuirersity, the oldest in Europe; old Ro- 
manesque Ch. of St. Miehele. with Giottesque 
frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri : towers on 
the walls; Castle, built 1630; and the Ch. of 
San Pietro in del d'Oro, containing the tomb of 
St. Augustine. 

Alessandria (Rly. ReHauraut : Europa ; Lon- 
dra), a huge fortress (36,000 inhab.), whose ap- 



352 ITALY. Turin. 

proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel 
built, 1728, by Victor Amadeo II. 

Turin (De la Ville, de Turin, d'Europe, Fio- 
rina, Central, de France, Roma e Rocca Cavour) 
is a prosperous city of 360,000 inb., on the plain 
of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was de- 
stroyed by Hannibal (218 b.c.) and Alaric ; was 
a Roman colony ; a bishoprie under Charle- 
magne ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of 
Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Philadel- 
phian regularity, and surrounded by umbrage- 
ous promenades, on site of old walls. The Pal- 
azzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally 
situated ; and once the Senate-house of Italy. 
Across the Piazza Castello is the Royal Palace, 
a ponderous old brick building (Sun., Tues,, 
Thurs., Sat. 10-12, 2-4) , richly furnished, and with 
fine statuary, library (60,000 vols.), and armory 
with Roman, French and Austrian standards, 
Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The 
handsome and busy Via di Po, with arcades, 
runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the 
Duke of Genoa is connected with that of the 
King. The Royal Gardens open 11-5 Sundays 
and holidays (music at 1). In the Accademia 
dtUe Scienze) (daily 9-4, 1 1.; Sun. 1-3, free), 
are collections in natural history, sculptures, 
Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., 
and a gallery of 600 pictures, many of them of 
great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains 
the Cappella del S. Sudario, a high-domed 
round chapel of brown marble, where the sov- 
ereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. 
contains a revered image of the Virgin. Tlie 
palaces and arcades of the Piazza dello Statuto 
were erected by an English companj^ and sur- 



ITALY. Bergamo. 353 

round a memorial of the Fr§jus Tunnel. There 
are many fine statues and groups in the squares, 
honoring Italian notables. The University, a 
vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 students, and 
a library of 200,000 volumes. See Oivic Museum 
of Fine Arts (daily, ex. Mon., 10-4, Wed. and 
Fri., 1 1., other days free) ; Museum of Indus- 
trial Arts; House of Tasso; house where 
Cavour died; Royal Theatre; Ch. of Gran 
Madre di Dio; Monmihents of Cavour, Vic- 
tor Emanuel, and PMlWert; the great Carig- 
nano Palace; the favorite PuUic Garden, with 
chateau of II Valentino; handsome granite 
bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., 
richly decorated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Walden- 
sian Temple; Capuchin Monastery and the curi- 
ous Mole Antonelliana. The Cemetery, 1^ M. 
N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo 
d'Azeglio, Gioberti, etc. La Superga, on a hill 
E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), 
is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs 
of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the Wal- 
denses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turbin. 

From Turin you may go to Milan by Novara 
(Sempione; Italia), a large Piedmontese mar- 
ket-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 
1100. The ancient church has columns of an 
older pagan temple. 

Turin to Venice, 257 M. Take morning train. 
Fine scenery and interesting cities. Bergamo 
{Modcrne; Italia) is a prosperous fortified 
provincial and episcopal capital (48.000 inhab.). 
Aristocratic and governmental Old Tov:n on hill, 
with Castle above it ; commercial yew Toicn be- 
low. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, 
splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace, and 



354 ITALY. Brescia. — Verona. 

quaint old Gothic Broletto palace. See very in- 
teresting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore (1173), 
containing tomb of Domzetti ; Accademia Car- 
rara, with over 20O ancient paintings ; statue of 
Torquato Tasso; vast buildings, with 600 shops, 
for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions 
to Vols Brembana and Serviana, and Lake of 
Iseo. 

Brescia (Alhergo d'ltalia; Gamhero; Brescia) 
makes famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 in- 
hab.) ; was a Gaulish town; a Roman colony; 
Milan's rival in the 16th century ; sacked by 
Gaston de Foix in 1512 ; a Venetian garrison. 
1517-1797; bombarded by Austrians in 1849. 
Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, sur- 
rounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. 
The Cathedral (built 1604-1825) is of marble, 
with vast dome. Near by is La Rotonda, the 
old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome 
and crypt. See chs. of *S'. Afra, S. Clemente, 
and ;S^. Tslazzaro e Celso, rich in pictures; Pina- 
coteca Martinengo (10-3, week days 1 1., Sun. 
free) with notable sculptures and paintings ; 
Museo Patrio (10-3 daily), Roman relics, in a 
temple built by Vespasian, a.d. 72 ; 15th century 
Municipal Btiilding, richly carved ; Mediaeval 
Museum in two old churches. Lake of Garda, 
see page 301. 

The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 
by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains 
bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; 
runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with 
lovely views; through the fortress of Peschiera; 
to thriving 

Verona (Colomha d'Oro; Gran Hotel di Lon- 
dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plai^ 



ITALY. Verona. 355 

(78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; 
then a Roman fortress; capital of the Gothic 
empire ; one of Charlemagne's chief towns ; a 
republic ; capital of the Scaligers ; Venetian ap- 
panage for 300 years ; Austrian garrison ( 1797- 
1866) ; and Italian city. There are 5 bridges 
over the rapid Adige. Verona is surrounded 
with formidable bastioned walls and detached 
castles, built by Austria and lately strength- 
ened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful 
memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and 
Carlovingians ; chs. of rare interest ; and vener- 
able palaces. The. Cathedral is a stately 14th- 
century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble 
columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is the 
old 12th-century Baptistery ; also, Bishoifs Pal- 
ace, with colossal statue in courtyard, and li- 
brary. The Piazza delle Erbe, or vegetable and 
fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, 
once the forum of the Republic, surrounded with 
frescoed palaces, and containing a tall marble 
pillar where stands a copy of the lion of Venice, 
the quaint Trihuna (or judgment-seat), the 
Municipal Toicer (330 ft. high), and fountain 
with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei 
Signori, with imposing Laio Courts (1183), pic- 
turesque court ; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Con- 
siglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Corne- 
lius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, all natives 
of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Nesfr the Ch. 
of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and 
splendid Gothic Tombs of the 8caliger family, 
who ruled Verona 1262-1389. S. Anastasia 
(1261) is an interesting Gothic church, with 
noble interior. The Arena, on one side the 
Piazza Vittorio Emamiele (formerly Br{i), is a 



356 ITALY. Verona. 

well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre, built by 
Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth 
and houses in the Aliddle Ages. The 72 arcades 
are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 feet 
around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can 
accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de 
Borsari, a triumphal arch built by the Emporor 
Gallienus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See 
also two arches of Roman bridge; an arch near 
old citadel; and the Arch of the Lions. 

S. Zenone, in N.-W, quarter, founded by Pepin 
(who was buried there), is one of the finest of 
mediaeval churches with rich marble fagade; 
very curious sculptures of Wheel of Fortune, etc. ; 
portal (1178) resting on red-marble lions; doors 
with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose interior, with 
alternate pillars and columns; tomb and statue" 
of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century cloisters. 
Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is 
Sammicheli's beautiful Capella del PeUegrini. 
Sammicheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate 
(end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an ar- 
senal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so- 
called Tomh of Juliet is a red marble sarcop- 
hagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. 
Fermo Maggiore, rich 14th-century Gothic ch. 
with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua, fa- 
cade by Sammicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte 
(1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Lavezzola Pompei, 
with hun^-eds of fine old Veronese paintings, 
Roman antiques, etc. Glustl Garden (50 c), 
with cypresses 500 years old, and commanding 
views of the Alps and Apennines; Cemetery, sur- 
rounded by Doric colonnade and the great Cas- 
tello 8. Pietro. 
Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and 



ITALY. Mantua. — Piacenza. 357 

thence down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 in- 
hab.), where Dante lived in exile. 

From Yerona, you can visit Mantua and- Mo- 
dena, passing Yillafranca, where peace was made 
between France and Austria in 1859. Mantua 
(Aquila cVOro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress 
' (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here 
Virgil (born 3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna 
and Giulio Romano were born. See S. Andrea 
(1472), a vast ch. with many monuments and 
frescso ; Museo Civico in the Palazzo degli 
Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Palace 
(1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Ro- 
mano ;* Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of 
sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from 
square) ; and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace out- 
side the Porta Pusterla, erected by Romano, and 
adorned with his greatest frescos. 

From Milan to Mantua by Cremona (Capello 
ed Italia), on the Po (36,000 inhab.), succes- 
sively Gaulish, Roman. Gothic, Lombard, Aus- 
trian, and Italian, famous for its violins, 
and now a dull towm of wide streets and decay- 
ing palaces. See pictures in Puhlic and Royal 
Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard Cathe- 
dral, with rich fagade and interior crowded with 
frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, 
with arcades to Cathedral ; and nobles' palaces. 

Piacenza (San Marco) may be reached hence 
by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan. This town 
(35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, 
B. c. 219. See 13th-century Palazzo Municipale, 
with fine arcades, and equestrian statues of the 
Farnese princes ; 12th-century Romanesque 
Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino and Caracci ; 
8. Francesco (1278), and Romagnosi's statue; 



358 ITALY. Vicenza. — Padua. 

S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael painted 
his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo 
Farnese, built by Vignola in 1558; Citadel 
(1547) ; and 8. Antonino, quaint vestibule. 

Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to 
Venice direct, passing through Vicenza {Tre 
Garofani; Roma), a busy town of 44,000 inhab., * 
surrounded with walls and moats, and richly 
adorned with buildings designed by the great 
Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518-80), among 
which are Casa del DiavoJo; Palazzo Prefettizio, 
Teatro Olimpico (^ 1.), etc. Also Basilica, or 
Palazzo del Gonsiglio, grand open arcades around 
town-hall ; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano 
palaces ; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is 
Civic Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, 
etc. See Palazzo della Ragione, very rich Gothic, 
in the Basilica Palladiana; Great Tower (1446) ; 
palaces around Piazza de' Signori; quaint old 
bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; dull Gothic Cathe- 
dral; S. Corona, with priceless pictures'; 8. Lo- 
renzo. On Mt. Berico, pilgrimage-ch. of Ma- 
donna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade 
of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. long). 1^ M. out is 
Villa Rotonda, Palladio's work, surrounded by 
Ionic colonnades. 

Padua {Stella d'Oro; Croce d'Oro), a univer- 
sity town between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,- 
(XX) inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embow- 
ered in gardens. From a distance its domes and 
towers and old bastioned walls and bastions 
present a noble appearance; but within it ap- 
pears almost deserted. Its foundation is at- 
tributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and 
in the Augustan age it was the chief city of 
North Italy. Alaric and Attila both sacked it; 



ITALY. Padua. 359 

and it was Venetian, 1402-1797, Ih 14th cen- 
tur5% Padua had more artists than any city 
(Giotto, etc.). The University, founded in 
1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18- 
20,000 students. Galileo was a professor ; Dante, 
Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still 
famous, and occupies a handsome old palace, 
with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a 
long line of statues (2 by Canova) of illustri- 
ous graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. II Santo, 
the vast Ch. of S. Antonio (1296-1475), 300 
ft. long and 123 ft. high, . is crowded with 
paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monu- 
ments (Bembo, Contarini), and has large clois- 
ters. Tame calls it an Italian-Gothic building, 
decorated with Byzantine cupolas, in which 
round domes, noble Greek tov^'ers, little columns 
surmounted by ogival arcades, a fagade bor- 
rowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied 
from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of sev- 
eral centuries and countries. In front, see Dona- 
tello's equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, 
a Venetian general ; and on the S., Scuola del 
Santo, a hall with famous frescos by Titian. 
/S*. Giustina (1549). a stately ch., often destroyed 
and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- 
stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in 
Europe) ; and huge old monastery (now a hos- 
pital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with 
very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morn- 
ing, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani Ch. (1276- 
1300), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed 
by Mantegna ; and Scuola del Carmine, a bap- 
tistery with Titian's frescos. See Cathedral bap- 
tistery (1260), frescoed in 1380; 11th-century 
Pallazzo della Ragione. with imniense hall, 



360 ITALY. Venice. 

largest known single roof, and 400 frescos ; 
Palazzo del Podestd and campanile; and Civic 
Museum, many paintings. Quiet old Padua may 
well be the object of a day's excursion from 
Venice. 

Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The 
last station is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the 
Lagoon on a vast viaduct, 2 M. long, on 222 
arches (built 1841-45; cost $1,000,000). The pas- 
sage by night seems a flight between sea and 



Venice. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Pa- 
lazzo Dandolo ; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani ; 
Britannia; Grand Canal; Reg'ina; Bellevue; 
Moderne.) Restaurants. — Bauer: Gamhrinus; 
Savoy; Vapore. Cafes. — Fl^rian : Quadri; Or- 
ientale, all on or near Piazza of Rt. Mark. Gon- 
dolas (one rower) for 1-2 persons, 1 1. per trip, 
or per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from 
steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each 
piece. Hotels to call a gondola, cry out Poppe. 
Numerous small steamboats (vaparetti) ply regu- 
larly on the canals, answering to the street-cars 
in other cities ; fare, 5 c. and 10 c. 

Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, 
with 150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 
157,000 inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce 
is increasing), and manufactures of books, mir- 
rors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one fac- 
tory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7 M. around, 
divided by the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 
M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The Lagoon is a 
shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected with the 



ITALY. Venice. 361 

Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and 
narro\Y sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- 
warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit 
the largest vessels. The tide rises and falls 
about Venice. A small canal is called 7'io; a 
street, calle or lista; a square, campo; small 
square, campiello; blind alley, co/te; quay, fonda- 
mento, or riva. An adequate view of Venice 
requires 8-10 days ; the chief sights may be vis- 
ited in 4 days. For sight-seeing, the city may 
be cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of 
Grand Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and 
W. ; S. Giorgio and Giudecca ; remoter islands. 

The islands were first colonized by fugitives 
from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. 
In 697 the first doge was chosen ; and in 819 the 
present site of Venice became a capital. Dur- 
ing the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and 
conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic 
and Levant. For 300 years its power was vast, 
and Venice was Europe's chief port. In 1508 its 
star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite de- 
cadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, 
which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 
1866 it became Italian. 

The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 
ft. long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray 
trachyte and white Istrian marble, surrounded 
by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark's 
Ch., and the picturesque centre of Venetian life, 
especially at evening, when the bands play, and 
the cafes are crowded by thousands. Flocks of 
fat pigeons have been fed here by the city at 2 
p. M. daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 
3 sides are the Procuratic Vecchie (N. side), 
built 15th century for home of the Procurators 



362 ITALY. Venice. 

(who ranked next to the Doge), and now used 
for business; Procuratie Nuove (1584), on S. 
side, now the Royal Palace; and isiuova Fah- 
hrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and 
the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), 
now connected with Royal Palace (hand- 
some rooms; fee, 11.). The palace arcades are 
occupied by cafes and hric-d-hrac shops. The 
vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating from the 
beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet in 
height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, 
but a new campanile has been built, the first 
stone having been laid on St. Mark's day (April 
25), 1903. Only one of the five bells escaped de- 
struction, but the other four were cast again 
at the expense of Pope Pius X., who was 
Patriach of Venice when the campanile fell. The 
pretty Loggetta of Sansovino was destroyed 
when the campanile fell, but it, too, has been 
restored. The Clock-Toicer (1496), across the 
Piazza, at entrance of Merceria, Venice's chief 
business street, has a huge bell, on which two 
bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty 
cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to bear 
the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, 
kingdoms tributary to Venice. 

The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side 
of the Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian 
Byzantine architecture, built in 976-1071, in 
form of Greek cross, with 5 domes, 500 marble 
columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the 
portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman 
workmanship, brought from Constantinople by 
Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797. as 
war trophies ; and returned in 1815. Below and 
all around, and in the great entrance hall, and 



ITALY. Venice. 363 

inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vesti- 
bule ; also, 3 red slabs commemorating the re- 
concilatioo of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander 
III (1177) ; and the ix>rphyry sarcophagus of 
Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). 
The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, in- 
crusted with precious stones, at once splendid 
and sombre, sparkling and mysterious" — is 2.58x 
210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th- 
centufy marble pavement, colored-marble pul- 
pits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ 
and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze statues of 
the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See 
high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over 
tomb of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, 
with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which be- 
longed to Solomon's Temple ; Treasury, with 
Doge Morosini's sword, St. Mark's throne, a bit 
of St. John's skull, piece of True Cross, etc. ; 
Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt, 
with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font 
and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen 
Chapel, with magnificent tomb, altar, and statu- 
uary ; Sansovino's bronze door, leading to Sa- 
cristy ; etc. 

The Piazzetta is a small square, running from 
S. Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite 
columns, brought from Syria in 1120, and sup- 
porting statues of St. Theodore and the "Winged 
Lion of St. Mark. On one side is the finely 
sculptured LWrej-ia Tecchia, built by Sansovino 
in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace. The 
great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which 
Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the 
old Mint, back of which is the Roi/al Garden. 
Opposite is the Doges' Palace, with fagade 246 



364 ITALY. Venice. 

ft. long, and fagade of 234 ft. toward the sea. 
It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and 
re-erected. Most of present palace dates from 
1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental 
designs, and Venetian-Gothic arches, combine 
very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 
71 above, in the rich Loggia, with quaint capi- 
tals. Ascend Sansovino's Giants' Staircase, be- 
tween colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, 
where the doges w^ere crowned; and observe 
beautiful court,* with statues, cisterns, and part 
of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, the Sansovino's 
Golden Staircase; Hall of Great Council, 165x 
84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old 
historical pictures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" 
Sala del Scrutlnio, 39 doges' portraits, and many 
paintings ; Library, with famous MSS. ; Archw- 
ological Museum, 5 rooms of ancient marble sculp- 
tures; Sala della Bussola; Hall of Council of 
Ten; and many others, crowded with paintings, 
and rich in historical associations. Obliging 
guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc. 

The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is con- 
nected with the busy quay of the Riva dei 
Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of 
Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the 
Prison (1512^7), and made famous by Byron 
(Ruskin blames his "ignorant sentimentalism"). 
You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons where 
state-prisoners were deprived of light and (al- 
most) of air ; and see where the political execu- 
tions occurred, and bodies were given to the 
gondoliers. In the Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 
1104, were built the fleets of the Crusaders, 
16,000 men were once employed here (now 2,- 
000). At portal are 4 marble lions, brought 



I ITALY. Venice. 365 

from Greece in 1697, once of which is said to 
have stood on Marathon. See military museum, 
Bucentaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, 
Attila's helmet, etc. , 

Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of 
Grand Canal. People help you ashore at 
landings, and expect a penny. The great 
Italian-Gothic Ch. of Santi Giovaimi e Paolo is 
the Venetian Pantheon, filled with imposing 
mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors 
(see those of Mocenigo, Bragadino, the Valiers, 
Vendramin, and Giustiniani ) , and valuable old 
pictures and statues. In S. transept is a window 
of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Venice. 
The ch. was founded in 1240; and the funerals 
of the doges always took place here. On adja- 
cent square, see ancient equestrian statue of 
Colleoni, a Venetian general. Close by is the 
richly carved Scuola di 8. Marco (1485), once 
headquarters of a charitable society, now part 
of a vast hospital. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a 
Romanesque ch., with paintings by Bellini, the 
doges used to go in solemn procession at be- 
ginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where Luther once 
said Mass, is 14th-century Gothic, with many 
statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, 
in S. Maria del Orto (1481), splendid Tinto- 
rettos ; 8. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; 
S. Maria del Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Re- 
naissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vault- 
ing; Gli Scalzi (1649), magnificent ch. of Car- 
melites, overladen with decorations of the De- 
cadence; 8. Francesco della Tigna (1534), rich 
carvings and chapels of nobles ; 8. Pietro di Cas- 
tello, Venice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with 
a fine campanile. A second trip may include 



366 ITALY. Venice. 

the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal. S. 
Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome 
is conspicuous in pictures of Venice, a sumptu- 
ous ch., with many statues and paintings, ad- 
joining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library 
and pictures) ; 8. Sehastiano (1506), with tomb 
(see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and sev- 
eral of his paintings, and organ designed by 
him; 8. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paint- 
ings; 8. G-iovanni Elemosinario (1527), near 
Rialto; 8. Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. 
The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. 
(1250), contains many famous works of art, 
costly modern monument of gray marble to 
Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) 
and of several doges and generals. In monastery 
adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 docu- 
ments, some dating from 883. 8. Rocco (1490, 
rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is 
the splendid Renaissance 8ci(ola di 8. Rocco 
(1415^1550), crowded with pictures by Tinto- 
retto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful 
fagade, staircase, and great halls. This council- 
hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo 
Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers. 

The Grand Canal should be traversed by gon- 
dola, between its lines of famous palaces. On 
the 1., see Dogana (Custom-House), with statue 
of Fortuna on tower; r., Palazzo Giustiniani 
(Hotel Europa) and Emo-Trdves (with Canova's 
Hector and Ajax ; fee, 11.). On the 1., Patri- 
archal Seminary and S. Maria della Salute. 
Thence the canal passes between palaces Tie- 
polo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Ferro, Fini- 
Wimpffen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Bar- 
baro, on the r., and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da 



ITALY. Venice. 367 

Mula, and Zichy-Esterhazy, on the 1., and then 
between Count Chambord's splendid Palazzo Ca- 
valli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Anga- 
rini (1.) and under an iron bridge. Close to this, 
on 1., is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (daily, 
9-3, 1 1. ; Sun. free), with TOO fine pictures, mainly 
by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, Giorgione, 
Palma, etc., with some modern works, and many 
drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old 
monastic halls. This is one of the great sights 
of Venice. Beyond (1.), see Palazzi Contarini, 
Rezzonico, Gkistiniani, Foscari (here the canal 
bends), Balhi, Pisani, etc., and on r.. Palazzi 
G7'assi, Moro-Lin, Contarini, and Moceniigo, the 
latter a triple palace, in which Byron wrote 
parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where now 
is an art-collection. Farther on (r.), see Pa- 
lazzi Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani (Corte 
d'Appello), Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century 
Loredan (once home of King of Cyprus), Dan- 
dolo (Gothic), Bembo, and Manin (now Na- 
tional Bank). Then, half-way through the 
canal, comes the famous 

Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch 
(1588-91), covered with shops, and running 
from the fruit-market to the fish-market. Be- 
low (1.), see Renaissance Palazzo de' Camer- 
lenghi (1525), opposite ponderous Fondaco de' 
Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for a 
German warehouse. Beyond Rialto. Pescheria 
(fish-market), on 1.; Palazzi Michieli and Sa- 
gredo, on r. ; Palazzo Corner della Evgina (now 
pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro's 
home (1.). Nearly opposite is the Ca d'Oro, 
Ruskin's favorite, and a very noble palace. The 
Palazzi Fontana and Grimani are beyond (r.) ; 



368 ITALY. S. Lazzaro. 

also, Palazzo Pesaro (1,), whose rich halls are 
open daily (1 1.). Nearly opposite each other, 
see Palazzo Vendramin Calerghi, the magnifi- 
cent modern palace of Count de Chambord (open 
daily, 11.), and the Fondaco de' Turchi, once 
headquarters of Turkish mer'chants. Here see 
Correr Museum, or Museo Civico (9-3, 1 1., Sun. 
free) with antiquities, MSS., and paintings about 
Venetian history. At the Palazzo Labia the Ca- 
nareggio diverges to the r. Bej^ond iron bridge 
and rly. stat., the Grand Canal enters the La- 
goon, by the island of 8. Chiara. Near the stat. 
are the famous Papadopoli and Botanical gar- 
decca, with Palladio's Redentore ch. (Francis- 
000 people, Goldoni, Rossini, Marionette, and 
Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, in the Campo 
del Mori ; and Titian's house, in the Sanciano. 
Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giu- 
deca, with Palladio's Redentore ch. (Francis- 
can) ; and 8. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great 
Benedictine monastery, cruciform ch. by Palla- 
dio, full of art-treasures, and campanile which 
gives superb view. Rather shabby Puhlic Gar- 
dens, S. E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island 
jf S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery. 
Excursions. — To the Lido (^ hr. by gondola; 
steamer in 12 min.), the beach on the Adriatic, 
with fine baths and summer-hotels. — To Mala- 
mocco, at S. end of Lido; and Chioggia, 30 M. S. 
an ancient lagoon- town (27,000 inhab.) — To the 
Cemetery, on 2 islands to the N., with S. Michele 
ch. (1466). Funeral processions of gondolas 
very interesting. — To Murano (4,000 inhab.), Ih 
M. N., with famous glass and mosaic factories, 
museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent 
Cathedral (1111), and ch. of 8. Pietro e Paolo 



ITALY. Fekraba. 369 

(1509), a noble and simple basilica. The Mu- 
rano school of art preceded that of Venice. — 
To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 brs. by gondola), 
once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, 
but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathedral, fa- 
mous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- 
tery (1008) ; and ;S'. Fosca, a strange 12th-cen- 
tury Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades. 

Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma. 

It is 101 M. from Venice through venerable 
Padua; Rovigo (Corona Ferrea), with its vast 
palace and picture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to 
"'ologna. Ferrara (Europa; Stella cVOro; Pel- 
ieynno), in a plain near the Po, has fallen from 
Its ancient glory, as shown by its many wide 
empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the 
golden era of the House of Este (1300-1600) it 
was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto 
and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic 
Cathedral (1135), imposing fagade. many pic- 
tures, and handsome campanile (1550) ; 8. Bene- 
detto, with painting of Paradise, in which 
Ariosto had his portrait introduced : S. Fran- 
cesco, several domes ; S. Maria in Vado, very 
ancient; >S'. Paolo; monuments to Ariosto and 
Savonarola ; houses of Ariosto and Guarini ; 
University, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. 
of Pastor Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and 
Orlando Furioso), museum, and tomb of Ariosto; 
St. Anna's Hospital, where Tasso was impris- 
oned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, 
Lamartine, and Goethe; and Palazzo de' Dia- 
manti (1493-1567), with the Civic Picture-Gal- 
lery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with an- 



370 ITALY. Bologna. 

cient paintings. The Castle is a huge old square 
fortress, iu the centre of Ferrara, with 4 tow- 
ers, deep moats, and frescoed halls. Is the 
scene of Byron's tragic Parisina. 

Bologna {Hotel Brun ; Stella d'ltalia; Grand 
Hotel d'ltalie; Pellcgrino), capital of Romagna 
(135,000 inh.) stands on a rich plain near the 
Apennines, and is surrounded by brick wall, 3 
to 4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan 
town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Car- 
thage ; occupied by Rome, b. c. 190 ; then Greek, 
Lombard, Frank ; a free town under Charle- 
magne; anti-imperial (Guelph) ; annexed to 
States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 
1859. Its splendid Roman temples, theatres, and 
baths were swept away by the barbarians. It 
was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; 
and the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, 
Guido Reni. and Guercino (see houses of last 
two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of 
Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan- 
Gothic ch. (half finished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. 
wide, with manj^ rich chapels, mural paintings, 
and sculptures. Fagade has many sculptures 
(made 1394-1525) of biblical subjects. Michael 
Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in 
pieces by the i>eople (1511). Charles V. was 
crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico 
contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with 
sculptures by Michael Angelo ; and tombs of 
Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The Univer- 
sity is in Palazzo Cellesi, with 1,400 students; 
library of 150,000 vols, (open 9-3), once conducted 
by Mezzofanti ; large museums of geology, an- 
tiquities, etc. It dates from 1119, and once had 
10,000 students, and several female professors. 



ITALY. Bologna. 371 

The Academy of Fine Arts (open week days, 
9-3. 1 1., Sun. 11-3, free), is one of the most 
famous in Italy, and has Raphael's St. Cecilia. 
The Museo Civico is in the Pahizzo Galvani (9- 

4, 1 fr., Sun. and holidays free). 

See, in *S^. Bartholomeo. horrible portrayal of 
martyrdom of St. Bartholome\Y ; S. Cecilia 
(1481), frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. 
Catherine Vigri ; S. ^tefano, a group of 7 chs., 
with rare old Celestine cloister; *S'. Giovanni in 
Monte (a. d. 433), precious paintings; *S'. Vitale 
(a. d. 428), lately restored; and other very no- 
table and ancient chs. Also, Palazzo Publico 
(1290). ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bra- 
mante's staircase; Palazzo del Podestd (1201), 
where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was im- 
prisoned many years ; Opiotcca, museum of 
weapons; leaning towers of AsiiicUi (1109; 272 
ft. high: grand view of mts.) and Garisenda 
(1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno); Archi- 
ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4). 
museum of antiquities, Galvani's anatomical 
lecture-room ; Palazzo Bentivoglio, lOth century, 
on site of old Castle; Palazzo Fata, and Col- 
legio di ^pagna (1364), frescos by Caracci ; Log- 
gia de' Mcrcanti (1294), venerable Gothic ex- 
change; Piazza Vittorio Emanuelc, and 8. Do- 
men ico; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and im- 
posing; Palazzo Zampicri, with great picture- 
gallery (I 1.); and many other palaces; also 
statues of Victor Emmanuel II.. Galvani, and 
Minghetti. 

La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, 
with views of Bologna and the Ai)ennines. f M. 

5. is *S'. Michele in lio.sco, orthopedic institute, 
formerly convent founded bj- St. Basil in 4th 



372 ITALY. Modena. 

century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and 
the Caracci left noble paintings. 2^ M. S. W. 
is the Madonna di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on 
strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 
M. long (635 arches; 100 years in building), and 
viewing Appennines and Adriatic. It contains 
portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke, 
brought from Constantinople in 1160. On the 
way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian mon- 
astery (1335), whose cloisters now contain very 
interesting Campo Santo (cemtery), with rich 
monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a 
colossal lion commemorating the martyrs for 
liberty. 

If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence 
N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make 
a side-trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) 
and Parma (54 M.). 

Modena {Alhergo Reale), an ancient ducal 
capital (28,000 inhab.), was once an important 
Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b. 
c. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. 
A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on 
which are promenades. See Cathedra] (1099- 
1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose- 
window, monumental tombs, and lofty colon- 
naded crypt ; renowned Campanile, called La 
Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, encased 
in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from 
the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a 
poem about it, has a statue near by) ; /S. Michele, 
in which Muratori is buried ; Begarelli's Pieta, 
which Michael Angelo praised; Public Gardens; 
and ramparts, with views of Apennines. The 
vast and magnificent Palazzo Reale (formerly 
Ducal Palace) has noble fagade on Piazza Reale, 



ITALY. Parma. 373 

and a courtyard surrounded by colonnades. See 
Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS. (14th-cen- 
tury edition of Dante) ; cabinets of medals and 
gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures 
(open 9-3), many of which are copies, a fact 
v.-hicb the catalogue omits to state. 

Parma {Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), 
founded by the Etruscans ; became Roman, 
B. c. 183 ; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, 
of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold ; seat of 
the Farnese princes, 1545-1731 ; and capital of 
Duchy from 1815 until 1859. when it fell to 
Italy (46,000 inhab.). The Roman Via Emilia 
cuts through its centre; and dreary, silent 
streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- 
rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a 
strong citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13th 
century), with notable crypt, rich monuments, 
and Correggio's vast and world-renowned fresco 
of The Assumption; Baptistry (119*3-1270), 
octagonal marble ch., with colonnades, quaint 
carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni Evangelista 
(1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome 
and cloisters; Madonna della Steccata (1521), 
fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of 
S. Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lu- 
nettes and Diana ; Farnese Theatre (50 c.) ; 8tra- 
dome. promenade near citadel ; and PuNic Gar- 
den, with an old Farnese chateau, richly fres- 
coed. The Ducal Palace {Farnese). founded 
1597, has Museum of Antiquities and Picture- 
Gallenj (open 10-4; 1 1., Sun. free), with many 
famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, in- 
cluding Correggio's Scala and Scodella Madon- 
nas and St. Jerome (II Gioruo). The Library 
has 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Pic- 



374 ITALY. Reggio.— Ravenna. 

turesque old road from Parma to La Spezia, on 
Gulf of Genoa. 

Reggio {Posta), between Parma and Modena, 
(20,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, the- 
atre, and cathedral, fine chs.. and Ariosto's birth- 
place, is 9 M. from Correggio, the great artist's 
birthplace, and 4 hrs. drive from ruins of Ca- 
nossa, where Henry IV. of Germany made his 
act of submission to Pope Gregory VII. (1077). 

Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto. 

From Bologna it is 52^ M. to Ravenna (Roma; 
Spada cVOro; Byron), a Thessalian colony, once 
capital of Roman empire ; captured by Odoacer 
and Theodoric ; capital of the Gothic kings, 493- 
552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs, or 
governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by 
Lombards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it 
to the Pope ; Venetian garrison, 1440-1509 : and 
attached to States of the Church, 1509-1860. It 
is now a dreamy town of G2.000 inhab., very 
rich in early Christian art : and 5 M. from the 
Adriatic, of which it was once a chief port. 
Dante's Tomb (1482). a dome-covered structure, 
with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 
1865. in ch. of *S^. Francesco) of the poet, who 
died here, in exile and under excommunication, 
in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and 
wrote several great poems there. See site of 
the house where Dante lived ; in Piazza Vittoria 
Emanitele, tall columns with statues, erected by 
the Venetians in 1494, and colonnade of old ba- 
silica ; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century ch., with 
Sth-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-century 
tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by 



ITALY. Ravexna. 375 

Guido ; 4th-ceutury octagonal Baptistry, with 
otli-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ. 
etc.) ; ArcJiiepiscopal Palace. 5th-centiiry chapel, 
^.j.OOO parchments in archives ; *S'. ApoUinare, 
built in 500 by Theodoric for the Arians, and 
given by Justinian to the Catholics, with round 
campanile. 24 columns from Constantinople, and 
many 6th-century mosaics ; *S'. V it ale. consecrated 
in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, 
at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pil- 
lars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of 
Justinian's time, Greek and Roman reliefs, and 
a dome of earthen vases bound together: Maii- 
soleum. of Galla Placidia, built 440 by Empress 
Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform ch.. with 
mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Con- 
stantius III. (the only Roman emperors whose 
tombs remain undisturbed) ; Acadcnnj of Fine 
Arts (9-2. 50 c), pictures by Ravennese masters, 
vases, bronzes; Museo Sazionale (9-3. free) and 
Lil)rary (open 10-2) of 50,0(X) vols., and many 
rare MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, which 
has frescoed refectory ; S. Niccolo (760), now- 
deserted; ^. Giovanni Euangelista (444). near 
rly. Stat.. 24 antique columns, and frescos by 
Giotto: remains of Palace of Theodoric: and 
many other old chs. and great palaces. 

Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theo- 
doric the Great (530), a ponderous structure 
(now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian 
stone 36 ft. in diameter. S. Maria in Porta 
Fttori. 2^ M. out, is an open-roofed basilica . 
(1096). S. ApoUinare in Classe (a. d. 534), 3 
M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipol- 
line columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a 
noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Ra- 



376 ITALY. Rimini. — Ancona. 

venna, from St. Apollinaris (martyred a. d. 74) 
to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, the fa- 
mous and venerable pine-forest, known to the 
Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, 
etc., and covering many leagues ; it is now nearly 
ruined. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M. 

The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola; 
Castel Bolognese; Faenza {Corona), a walled 
town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel and 
potteries (whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 in- 
hab.), at foot of Apennines, with fine cathedral 
and castles ; Cesena with handsome palaces and 
rare library ; Rimini (Leon d'Oro; Aquila d'Oro), 
a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and summer resort on 
the Adriatic, with magnificent classical cathe- 
dral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman tri- 
umphal arch and bridge, and house of Fran- 
cesca da Rimini (carriage thence, 15 M., to San 
Marino, capital of Republic of same name, the 
oldest government in Europe). The rly. follows 
the Adriatic to Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, 
where there ate fine chs., a rich library, and 
the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a bril- 
liant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the 
Amadis. Distant 21 M. is Urbino (Italia), a 
town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded by sombre mts. 
Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, grand Re- 
naissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art. 

Ancona (La Pace; Vitto?'ia) is built on an 
amphitheatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and 
has 36,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental 
cathedral (columns from the Temple of Venus), 
colossal statue of Cavour, handsome palaces, and 
(on the Mola) triumphal arch reared by the 
Roman Senate, a. d. 112, to Trajan, and another 
in honor of Pope Clement XII. 



ITALY. Brixdisi. 377 

11-14 hrs. distant by riy. is Brindisi {Inter- 
national; Gentrale; Enropa; tolerable), once an 
important Roman naval station, and now the 
chief point of departure for the East Indies, 
on the mail-route from England to India. It is 
visited by steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, 
and Levantine ports (3 days to Alexandria). 
Here the Appian Way ended ; and here Virgil 
died. 

52f M. hence by rly. to Otranto, a port on the 
heel of the Italian boot (72 M.) from Bari to 
Taranto (Aquila D'Oro; Europa), with richly 
decorated Cathedral and strong castle. There is 
a museum of antiquities which may be visited 
with interest if time permits. 

Ancona to Roine by rly., 183 M. Few tourists 
will go S. of Ravenna on this coast. 

Bologna to Florence, 82 M., by remarkably 
picturesque rly. across the Apennines, with many 
very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and via- 
ducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (su- 
perb views). Pistoja (Gloho) is an ancient 
town of 13,000 inhabitants, at foot of Apennines, 
rich iu 13tli and 14th-century sculptures, and a 
favorite sunnner-resort for Florentines. Pistols 
are named from this town. Catiline was de- 
feated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century 
Cathedral, monuments, choir-stalls, and silver 
altar; Campanile, once a fortified tower; Italian- 
Gothic •Baptistery, of black and white marble: 
8. Andrea, splendid pulpit (121)8-1301) and 
carved nrchitrave; several other rich chs. and 
massive old palaces; and suburban Villa Puc- 
cini, in beautiful gardens. 

Pistoja to Pisa, 40^ il/.; to Florejiee. 21 1 M. 



378 ITALY. Florence. 

Florence. 

Hotels; Grand; Florence; and Wafihinytoit : 
\eir York; Italic; de la Vlllc; Palace; du Nord; 
Metropole; d'Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria; 
Alliance; Anglo-American; Minerva; Baglioni; 
Albion; Bristol; Grande Brctagne. There are 
also many excellent pensions where those mak- 
iHi? a long stay can live cheaply and well. Fur- 
nished apartments may also he had reasonahly. 
mc;ils being prepared at home, sent in from one 
of the trattorie, or taken in tlie restaurants. 

Florentia was founded by the Romans, before 
Christ; ravaged by the barbarians; rose to great 
conunercial importance by 1100; suffered from 
centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars : 
ruled by tlie Medici family, 1434-1 Tii7; by dukes 
of the house of Lorraine, 1731^1800; and was 
capital of Italy, 1804-70. Since 1870 it has 
fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, 
but is a favorite winter-resort, although the cli- 
mate is not very good, by reason of its vast art- 
treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of liv- 
ing. It stands on a narrow plain, partly sur- 
rounded by the Aj^ennines and their foot-hills, 
and cut in two by the river Arno, which is nearly 
dry in summer. There are 200,000 inhab. 

There is a summer school here (Aug. 1 — Sept. 
15), open to foreigners, with courses in Italian 
language and literature, Florentine history, fine 
arts, etc. ; in addition to the lectures, visits are 
made to the monuments and galleries of Flor- 
ence and excursions to the environs. Fee for the 
lectures with right to participate in the excur- 
sions, 45 1. ; members of the classes have free 
admission to the nmseums and galleries. 



ITALY. Florence. 379 

The Piazza della Signoria, tbe central square, 
forum of the Republic, aud present business- 
centre, is adorned by bronze equestrian statue of 
Cusmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, 
erected in 15G4-75, on site of Savonarola's mar- 
tyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (built 
1298), once capitol of Republic and palace of 
Cosmo I., and now town-hall, — a tall, massive, 
and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Ban- 
dinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the 
courtyard, with Michelozzi's dainty arabesques. 

. V^asari's fountain, Verocchio's statue of a boy. 
The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, 
at Savonarola's order. Italian Parliament sat 
here, 18G5-70. Vasari and others made many 
of the frescos ; and two very famous cartoons 
were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this 
hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by 
town-council; Hall of the Lilies, with rich mar- 
ble work ; and Medici apartments. Campanile 
built by Arnolfo de Cambio, 308 ft. high (430 
stei)s), gives a grand view. Its bell was the 
lallying-sound in the civil wars. In front is the 
Loggia dei Lanzi, a very graceful arcade built 
in 187(> for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a 
tribune whence the people were harangued; and 
now containing celebrated statues, — Benvenuto 
Cellini's "Perseus," Donatello's "Judith,"' Gio- 
vamii da Bologna's "Hercules," etc. Alongside 
Palazzo Vecchio, see Palazzo iJpuccionc, 
planned by Raphael ; oi)posite which is new Pal- 
azzo Fenzi, in Early Florentine style. Between 
Vecchio and Loggia, enter Portico dcf/li L'ffizi, 
built by Vasari, 15r>0-74, with marble statues 
of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, 

now Post-0 fficc; on 1., to the world-renowned 



380 ITALY. Florence. 

Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adm. 1 1., Sundays 
free; catalogues, 3^ 1.), the vast art-collections 
made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See 
'Niohe Halh antique statues of Niobe and ber 
children ; hall of portraits of painters, made by 
themselves; Tribima, with Venus de Medici, 
Wrestlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paint- 
ings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, and 
vases ; vast collections of Flemish, German, 
Dutch, and Yenetinn pictures; and masterpieces 
of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. The Ya- 
tional Lihrary (open 10-4) has 480,000 vols., 18,- 
000 MSS., rare books, and the great Tuscan 
archives. 

The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the 
Arno. was begun in 1440, on Brunelleschi's plans, 
for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 
1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and 
had Yasari join it to the Palazzo Yecchio by a 
corridor 1,800 ft. long (now filled with rare 
drawings by Italian masters). The Pitti is oc- 
casionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 
ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 
ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (Gal- 
leria Palatum, open 10-4, 1 1., Sun., free)^ of 500 
fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent saloons, richly 
frescoed and adorned with tables and cabinets 
of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. 
Here are some of the best works of Raphael, 
Titian, etc. The Boboli Garden (open free 
Thurs. and Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was 
laid out in 1500. and its hill-terraces connnand 
noble views of Florence (especially from Belve- 
dere). See ampitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Nep- 
tune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), etc. 
Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu- 



ITALY. Floeence. 381 

seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, 
and one of his fingers ; also rare botanical col- 
lections. 

The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1.; 
Suns, free) contains schools of design, painting, 
architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., 
and a noble collection of old religious pictures 
showing the development of Tuscan art. The 
lower halls contain modern paintings. The court 
is decorated with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. 
In second court is Michael Angelo's celebrateil 
statue of David. Florentine Mosaic-factory in 
same building (museum open daily). Close by. 
in cloisters of the ^caizo, fine frescos by An- 
drea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 
1570. In same square is Ch. of 8. Marco (1290). 
with many pictures and statues, and tombs of 
Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door 
is the famous old Dominican Monastery of S. 
Marco, now occupied by a museum (open 10-4, 
1 1.; free Sun.; guide-book. 1^ 1.) of choice 
works of old masters, great number of frescos by 
Fra Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refec- 
tory. See cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico. Fra 
Bartolommeo. St. Antoninus, and Politian were 
monks here. The Accadeniia dclJa Cra.sca, 
founded in 1582 to preserve the purity of the 
Italian language, is established here. 

The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. : Sun. 
free) has a hall of mediiTeval bronzes, with Gio- 
vanni da Bologna's celebrated "Mercury," Dona- 
tello's "David," "St. George," and 8 other works : 
Carrand collection of paintings ; a collection of 
weapons ; statuary by Angelo, Baudinelli, etc. ; 
ancient furniture ; faience ; celebrated frescos by 
Giotto, in old chapel ; rich terra-cottas ; stained 



382 ITALY. Florence, 

glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del Podesta. or 
II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief 
magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed bv 
the populace. The curfew was sounded from 
the campanile. The prisons and torture-rooms 
were here. See picturesque court. 

The Cathedral of *S7o. JlJaria del Fiore (so 
called from the lily in the arms of Florence), 
one of the grandest Gothic chs. of Europe, was 
built 1294-1474. by Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi and 
Orcagna, on site of older ch. of S. Reparata, and 
is 556^ ft. long, and 342 ft. wide (at transepts), 
with walls of beautiful white and colored mar- 
bles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful porch 
on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of 
lions, and over the door statues by Donatello and 
Jacoix) della Querela. The interior is impres- 
sive, but simple, with huge pillars flanking the 
lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and 
stained windows. See Jacoix) della Quercia's 
"Madonna," Uccello's frescos, Gaddi's mosaics, 
Angelo's "Entombment;" bronze doors, by Luca 
della Robbia ; statues, portraits, and tombs of 
many celebrated Florentines. It is a perfect 
treasure-house of art. The stained glass was de- 
signed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at 
Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made bv Bru- 
nelleschi (1421-36) is higher than that "^of St. 
Peter's, and may be ascended (463 steps; 57 
more to the Cross; fee, 11.). Interesting de- 
tails, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel 
laid foundations of new main fagade in 1860. In 
this ch. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the dag- 
gers of the Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to 
become Catholic; and Fretlerick II. of Germany 
knighted many of his fierce captains. In the 



ITALY. Florence. 383 

Opera del Duomo is the Cathedral Museum (10- 
3. 50c., Sun., free). 

The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most mar- 
vellous bell-to\yer in the world, is Giotto's 
noblest work (1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 
4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly 
decorated, with delicate tracery around windows 
and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Dona- 
tello. and other masters. The tower is built of 
variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 1 1. Noble view 
of Florence and Apennines ( 414 steps ) . Alongside 
is the famous ch. of the 2Ii$cricordia, whose 
cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets. 
and opposite is the Canonry, with statues of 
Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. See Sas.so di Dante, 
near by, a stone on which Dante used to sit. 

The Baptistry of S. Giovanni (6th Century), 
opposite the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble 
ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it 
was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's 
celebrated bronze doors (1408-52), with 10 Old- 
Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ 
and early Church history. Michael Angelo de- 
clared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise 
(see also George Eliot's Romola). At the sides 
are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 
1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. 
John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside 
are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental- 
granite columns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. 
S. Annunziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sar- 
to's best works, sumptuous chapels, and clois- 
ters. iS. Croce, built (1294-1442) by Arnolfo and 
Vasari, is an imposing cruciform basilica, with 
modern fa(;ade of black and white marbles 
(1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and re- 



384 ITALY. Florence. 

fectory (many paintings). In this vast old Flo- 
rentine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Mi- 
chael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, 
Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Foscolo, and other great 
men; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. 
Rare treasures of art, including many frescos 
by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of 
Dante. 8. Lorenzo^ consecrated by St. Ambrose 
in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from 
Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo's plans, is a 
sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall 
Corinthian columns, and containing tomb of 
Cosmo, "Father of his People;" and sculptures 
by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and 
Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy are Angelo's 
Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs 
of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), 
erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for 
their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, 
lined with precious marbles, mosaics, and fres- 
cos. Adjacent, see Laurentian Library (open 9- 
3; ^-11.), founded 1444 by Cosmo, in building 
planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols, 
and 8,000 MSS., many of them rare, by Dante, 
Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and of Virgil, 
^schylus, etc. 

S. Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful 
ch. of black and white marbles, with arcades, 
and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See 
Ghirlandajo's famous frescos, in choir; Brunel- 
leschi's crucifix, in Gondi Chapel; Cimabue's 
Madonna, borne in triumph by the Florentines 
from the studio to the ch.; Orcagna's frescos, in 
Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister; vast Giot- 
tesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great 
Cloisters, the largest in Florence. See, also, in 



ITALY. Florence. 385 

S. Maria Maddalena, fresco by Perugino; La 
Badia, with ancient tombs and tall tower; Or 
San Michele, built in i.284 by Arnolf o for a corn- 
hall and made a Gothic eh. in 1337-55, with 
many statues by the great masters, and altar by 
Orcagna (1359); S. Trinitd (1250); Carmine 
(1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's famous 
frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, Angelo, 
and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 
70,000 vols.; Riccardian library, containing old- 
est MS. in existence (Pliny); houses of Ben- 
venuto Cellini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, 
Amerigo Vespucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guic- 
ciardini, Andrea del Sarto; the great hospitals, 
decorated by the masters (especially Foundling 
Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy Mercato Nu- 
ovo; and interesting great Egyptian and Etrus- 
can Museum (open 9-3; 11.), in refectory of old 
Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, imple- 
ments, etc., and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" 
and house of Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4, 50c.; 
Mon., Thurs., free), with museum of works and 
relics of Angelo. 

There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly 
by illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi 
(Rucellai), which was sacked by the people in 
1527; AJtoviti, with marble portraits of famous 
Florentines; Corsini, very elegant, with large 
picture-gallery (open Tues., Thurs.. and Sat., 
50c.) ; Strozzi, 3 vast fagades, a very perfect and 
imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open); 
Riccardi (1434), original and stately home of 
the Medici (see chapel and courts) ; FontehounL 
where Alfieri died; Spini, now municipal offices; 
Manelli (1565); Panciatichi, with picture-gal- 



386 ITALY. Florence. 

lery; and Torrigiano, with large gallery (open 
daily) and famous gardens. 

The Arno is bordered by the handsome old 
quays of the Lung Arno, on both sides, and 
crossed by the picturesque Ponte Vecchio 
(1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. 
Trinitd, built 1252; Ponte alia Carraja (1218), 
often restored: Ponte alle Grazie (1235); and 
2 suspension-bridges. The Via del CalzajuoH. 
from cathedral to Uffizi. and Yia Tornabiioni are 
the busiest streets. There are many picturesque 
squares, adorned with statues and fountains. 

Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park ex- 
tending 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, 
has favorite rambles and drives (military music, 
zoological garden, etc.) — Along the Viale dei 
Colle to Piazza Michael Angelo, a beautiful es- 
planade (dedicated 1875), with monument and 
bronze copies of Angelo's works. S. Miniato is 
a beautiful ch. on far-viewing hill on E., in 
Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with rich 
facade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open 
roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement 
(1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charming 
view of Florence. — Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of 
Florence, commands a famous view over city 
and mts. — The Poggio Imperiale, once a ducal 
villa, now a nuns' school, is outside and above 
the Porta Romana. reached by fine avenue of 
trees. Near by is the tower which was Galileo's 
observatory; also, villa where he lived, 1631-42, 
and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, 
Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La 
Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a vast and 
fortress-like Cartnusian monastery, built 1341, 
from Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monu- 



ITALY. Fiesole.^Arezzo. 387 

ments, etc., in ch. cloisters, and chapter-house 
(11.). — Monte Oliveto, 1 M. from Porta S. Fre- 
diano, is a monastery (1334), whence grand 
views. — Villa San Donate (Demidoff), open 
Mon. and Fri. (51.).— Villa Careggi, 2. to 3 M. 
N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. 
Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio a Cajano, 
royal villa. 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa della Petraia. 
another royal residence. — Pratolino, former for- 
est-palace of Medici. 

Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Florence, beyond convent 
where Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, 
and retains part of vast walls. See also Cathe- 
dral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Francis- 
can convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient thea- 
tre (50c.) ; splendid abbey; and fascinating 
views of Val d'Arno. 

Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apen- 
nines, may be visited in a day. Vast abbey, 
founded 1050, now a school of forestry. One 
hour's climb hence to top of P7-atomagno, 5,323 
ft. high, with noble view to Mediterranean. 
Excursion also to very picturesque Casentino 
region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and 
Alvernia. 

Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, Foligno, Siena, 

From Florence we would recommend you to 
go to Rome by the shortest route, through Arez- 
zo, Orvieto, and Orte (195^ M.). 

Beautiful mt. scenery on the long ascent to 

Arezzo {Yittoria; Ingliilterra) , an ancient 

Etruscan city which became an ally of Rome. 

B. c. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and 

other famous men were born. It now has 18,000 



388 ITALY. Perugia. 

inhab. See Italiau-Gothic Cathedral (1177), 
with many pictures, tombs, etc. 8. Maria della 
Pieve. remarkable fagade; S. Francesco, inter- 
esting frescos; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, an- 
tiques; Abbey of S. Flora; old palaces, chs., and 
statues.* Cortona {Nazionale), another Etrus- 
can town, has Cathedral Museum, vast Etruscan 
walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs 
near Lake Thrasymene and the lovely Val di 
Chiana. Orvieto {.Belle Arti; del Duomo; Pal- 
ace) stands on a lofty volcanic rock; and has a 
magnificent Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and 
white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded 
with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by 
Luca Signorelli and Fra Angelico. The route 
hence to Rome leads by Monte Rotondo and 
Mentana, where Garibaldi was defeated in 1867. 

A longer rly. route to Rome leads from Cor- 
tona along Lake Thrasymene (oO x 8 M. in area; 
near by Hannibal annihilated the Roman army, 
B. c. 217). to 

Perugia {Palace; Brufani; Grande Bretagne; 
Belle Arti), once Etruscan, now capital of Um- 
bria (19,000 inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 mon- 
asteries. See great 15th-century Cathedral ; S. 
Pietro de' Casinense, 18 antique columns, choir- 
stalls designed by Raphael; S. 8evero, with 
Raphael's first fresco; S. Domenico, tomb of 
Pope Benedict XL; Santa Maria Xuova with a 
number of frescos; University (50c.), founded 
1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, 
antiquities, etc.; Arch of Augustus, an ancient 
city-gate; Perugino's house; Etruscan cemetery; 
and collections in several palaces. Superb views 
over Tiber valley and Apennines. Assisi {Leone; 
Subasio), perched on a high hill, was the birth- 



ITALY. Siena. 389 

place of St. Francis, and has vast Franciscan 
monastery (fee, 50c.), and its wonderful Gothic 
double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, 
and other treasures. Foligno has 6 interesting 
chs. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe 
earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rom& passes 
Trevi. Spoleto, and Terni (beautiful falls here). 

A still longer route is from Florence to Siena 
(59 M.), passing GertaJdo. where Boccaccio 
died; and Poggihonsi, whence carriages to San 
Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting 
chs., and many works of art. 

Siena (Aquila Neva; Royal; Continental) . 
city of 25,000 inhab., celebrated for ancient 
school of devotional art, for pretty women, heal- 
thy climate, and purity of language. Sieges 
and wars innumerable have distressed it. See 
vast and superb 13th-century Cathedral, of red, 
white, and black marbles, abounding in sculp- 
tures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, 
etc.; Library (1495), frescos by Pinturicchio 
and Raphael; notable Campanile, Baptistry, 
and Pellegrinajo hospital; S. Domenico, S. Fran- 
cesco, S. Bernardino, and other chs.; Oratory 
of St. Catherine of Siena; Institute of Fine Arts 
(open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, in- 
cluding Sodoma's "Descent from the Cross;" 
Palazzo Puhlico (1293-1309), with many stately 
and richly furnished halls; Campanile, which 
Leonardo da Vinci admired; handsome Palazzo 
del Governo (1469), with 30,000 parchments, 
some dating from 814; Loggia di S. Paolo 
(1417); other palaces of noble period of archi- 
tecture; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda : La 
Lizza, the promenade; the University; the 
Opera del Duomo, now Cathedral Museum. Ex- 



390 ITALY. Rome. 

ciirsions to UOsscrvanza monastery and Belcaro 
castle. 

Rome. 

Hotels. — Quirinal; Regina: Grand; Royal: 
Enropa; Excelsior: Michel: de Riissie; Majes- 
tic: Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; BertolinVs Splen- 
did; Mctropole; Britannia; Angleterre; Italic; 
Hassler (German); Anglo-Americain ; Marini; 
Campidoglio ; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Mi- 
lano; National. There are also many good pen- 
sions suitable for a long stay. 

Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and 
palaces obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, 
or from appointed officials. Get Baedeker's 
Central Italy, compact and practical; Hare"s 
Walks in Rome; Murray's Rome is good read- 
ing, but bulky; Hachette's Rome et ses Envi- 
rons is good. 

Old travelers advise that mornings at Rome 
be given to the churches and palaces, and after- 
noons to the classic ruins and fragments of the 
Imperial city. 

A visit to Rome is the most interesting experi- 
ence in the course of a European tour. No 
adequate idea of the city can be gained in less 
than 10 or 12 days. If the traveler can give it 
but 7 or 8 days, he should devote the time 
equally between the classic remains and the 
great churches and modern institutions. 

Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to 
Romulus and Remus, b. c. 753. It is probably 
much older. King Tarquin was expelled, b. c. 
509; the republic lasted 480 years, conquering 
the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc. 



ITALY. Rome. 391 

B. c. 390 the Gauis took Rome. Then came wars 
with Carthage (b. c. 264-241, 219-202, and 149- 
146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), 
Spain (B. c. 197-178). Greece (b. c. 214-205. 200- 
197. 172-168, and 146). Pergamus (129), Prov- 
ence (118), and Gaul (58-50). b. c. 29, Augus- 
tus Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garri- 
soned the vast empire. Constantine (324-337 
A. D.) made Christianity the State religion, but 
removed the capital of the empire to Constanti- 
nople. Rome was sacked by Alaric, 410, then by 
Genseric, and finally by Odoacer (476). who ani- 
hilated the Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the 
Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440- 
461) and Gregory the Great (590-604) founded 
the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin 
(755) and Charlemagne (800). 

Rome, "the Eternal City," the capital of Italy 
(520,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15^ M. 
from its mouth, and near the centre of the 
broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs 
for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Vatican 
and Janiculan Hills on the r., and on the 1. the 
circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esqui- 
line, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding 
the Palatine and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 
are the famous "Seven Hills"). The space with- 
in the walls is about the same as in Aurelian's 
time, but 2/3 of it is in gardens and ruins. As 
in the Augustan age, it is divided into 14 Rioni, 
or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. 
Many of the streets are narrow and unattract- 
ive; but the Corso, Via Babuino. Ripetta, and 
a few others are filled with splendid shops and 
animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the 
Tiber. The river often overflowed its banks 



392 ITALY. Rome.— Aqueducts. 

and made lakes of the lower squares before em- 
bankments were built. 

The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, 
and 55 ft. high, and about IbOO years old, though 
restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There 
are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On 
N. is Porta del Popolo, built in 1561 by Vignola; 
next is Pinciana, closed in 1808, then Salara 
(closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric en- 
tered Rome; Pia, built from Angelo's designs in 
1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870; 
Nomenta, closed since 1564; Tiburtina, long ago 
sealed up; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over 
the Tivoli road; tne rly. gate; Porta Maggiore, 
part of Claudian Aqueduct (a. d. 52), made a 
gate by Aurelian, and a fortress by the Colon- 
nas, and commanding the Palestrina road; S. 
Giovanni, built in 1574, over Albano road; Asi- 
naria (now closed), where Belisarius marched 
into Rome; Metronia, closed; Latina (closed 
1808), over Via Latina, to Capua; S. Sebastiano, 
with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way; 
S. Paolo, at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. 
On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to 
river; 8. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed 
by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their 
artillery; Cavalleggieri. close to St. Peter's, 
where the army of the Constable de Bourbon en- 
tered in 1527. and the French were repulsed in 
1849; Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to 
Monte Mario; and Castello (closed). 

The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman 
architecture and bold conception, with their 
vast arcades running for leagues over the Cam- 
pagna. The Aqva Marcia. built b. c. 146 and 
restored in 1869, brings the purest of water 



ITALY. Rome. — Piazza del Popolo. 393 

from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. The Aqua 
Claudia (a. d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58^ 
M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 
35 M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for 
his baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the 
Campagna, and breaks out in the Fountain of 
Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus V., 
in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Rome 
is thus copiously supplied. 

The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of 
Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, 
and Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyp- 
tian obelisk (set up here in 1589), fountains, 
and statues. S. i\laria del Popolo (1099), on 
haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates' 
tombs, rich paintings, and a beautiful chapel by 
Raphael. Two other high-domed chs. front on 
the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the favorite 
Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill 
(once Lucullus's gardens), with grand views. 
The Yilla Medici (1540) is now seat of French 
art-academy and collections (open 9-2. 2-5. Wed. 
and Sat. free). The Villa Borghese, outside 
Porta del Popolo, has lovely gardens, with Ra- 
phael's villa, and a casino devoted to sculptures 
(including Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and 
paintings. 

The Piazza di Spagna contains Bernini's Bar- 
caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Im- 
maculate Conception (with 5 statutes) : the Pal- 
ace of Spain (Spanish embassy) : and College of 
Propaganda Fide (1662). The famous Spanish 
Staircase ascends hence to SS. Trinita de Monti 
(1495), a stately ch. with many paintings and 
charming music (by nuns). At foot of Spanish 
stairs, on left, is the house in which Keats 



394 ITALY. Rome.— The Corso. 

passed the last 4 months of his life, and in 
which he died on the night of February 23-24, 
1821. A commemorative tablet is placed on the 
house on a level with the apartment occupied 
by Keats and his friend and devoted nurse, the 
painter Joseph Severn, who is buried beside him 
in the Protestant cemetery. This house is now 
owned by the Keats-Shelley Memorial Associa- 
tion, and was pinchased by a fund contributed 
by English and Americans. The rooms of the 
Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi- 
tional funds furnished by Americans and are 
devoted in large part to a library of the works, 
portraits, and other memorials of Keats and 
Shelley (open daily, 50c.). One of the rooms, 
furnished by members of the New York Stock 
Exchange, is dedicated to the memory of the 
late Edmund Clarence Stedman. 

The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via 
tlaminia. Leaving Piazzo del Popolo, it passes 
Palazzo Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by 
Michael Angelo; Goethe's house (No. 20); great 
Hospital of Incurables (founded 1338); Palazzo 
Ruspoli (1586); S. Lorenzo in Lucina (in Pi- 
azza to r.), with tomb of N. Poussin; Palazzo 
Fiano ; Palazzo TeocloU; S. Silvestro in Capite 
(built 757-67), and English Gh. (1874) in side- 
street; old Palace of Knights of Malta: Palazzo 
Torlonia: and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val- 
uable art-collections and library. Here opens 
the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column 
of Marcus Aurelins^ 95 ft. high, adorned with 
spiral reliefs of Aurelius's wars on the Danube. 
On one side see palace with fine Ionic columns 
from Etruscan Veil, beyond which is Piazzo di 
Monte Cittorio. with Italian Parliament House, 



ITALY. Rome. — Palazzo Doria. 395 

in palace built by Bernini. In front, note obe- 
lisk, brou-ght by Augustus from Egypt. Other 
two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by the 
Palazzi Piombino and Ferajuoli. Farther down 
the Corso on little square, is very handsome 
Palazzo Sciarra-Colonna, with a fine picture- 
gallery. Farther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, 
see ch. of S. MarceUo (a. d. 499), with ancient 
paintings and Consalvi's tomb. Next comes 
(on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open 
Tues. and Fri., M.), with large arcaded court- 
yard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues 
in each room), including works of Raphael, 
Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo 
Salviati, back of which is Colonna Palace. Be- 
yond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the 
mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza cU Venezia. 
at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing 
castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455). which 
Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian em- 
bassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous 
for its works of art; S. Marco (a. d. 325; rebuilt 
in 833), with mosaics and paintings; popular 
and gorgeous Jesuit Ch. of Gesu (1568-77), 
lined with costly marble, with columns of lapis 
lazuli and gilded bronze, many statues, and 
tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent is the 
former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's cell, etc. 

At the end of the Corso on the N. slope of 
lh& Lapitol is the Monument of Victor Em- 
manuel II., after the design by Sacconi, which 
was 25 years in building (1885-1911) and cost 
over $5,000,000. 

The Tomb of Augustus (50c.), where Augus- 
tus. Marcellus (see Virgil), and other emperors 
and princes were buried, afterwards became a 



396 ITALY. Rome. — Quirinal Palace. 

fortress of the Colonnas, and a ring for bull- 
fights, and is now but partly preserved, near 
the Ripetta, or harbor for barges and steamers. 
The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and 
splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The pic- 
ture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of 
the Villa Borghese, outside of the Porta del 
Popolo (daily 10-4, adm. 11.; Sun. 10-1, free). 
In this wonderful collection see especially Dom- 
enichino's Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and 
Profane Love, Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, 
and Caesar Borgia, and Correggio's Danae. 

The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and 
healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of 
the Popes until 1870, since which the King of 
Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned 
here in 1809 by Napoleon; and here he died in 
1823. See frescos in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, 
a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine; Audience 
Hall; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck, etc.; and 
apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., 
and King Francis II. of Naples. In front is 
Piazza di Monte Cavallo, with obelisk, great 
granite fountain, and two famous colossal mar- 
ble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths 
of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands ConsuJtd 
Palace, now Government offices; Palazza Ros- 
pigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed., 9-3), full 
of priceless pictures, including Guido's Aurora; 
8. Silvestro Ch., with Domenichino's frescos; 
mediaeval Milizie and Conti towers. 

Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit 
vaults containing 4,000 desiccated bodies of Ca- 
puchin Monks, many in robes, others used in 
ghastly decorations. In rear of monastery is 
Villa Ludovisi, along city wall, with Juno Ludo- 



ITALY. Rome. — S. Makia Maggiore. 397 

visi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., in its embowered 
casino. Across Piazza Bar'berini (see Ber- 
nini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid 
Palazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, an- 
tique sculptures and Picture-Gallery (daily, 10- 
5, 11.), containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so- 
called Guido's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great 
hall, see Pietro da Cortona's fresco, "The Tri- 
umph of Glory." The library was added to the 
Vatican Library in 1902. 

On Piazza di SS. ApostoU, see ch. (555; re- 
stored 1872) with monuments by Canova; Val- 
entino, Odescalchi, and Ruffo Palaces; and 
Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and 
gardens, antiques. Gobelins, and several halls 
filled with fine old pictures (Tues., Thurs., Sat., 
10-3, 11.; names of pictures on frames). 

The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were 
once the largest in Rome, 6,000 ft. around, with 
3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by 
enslaved Christians. One of the great vaulted 
halls was made into Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, 
by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 350 ft. long 
and 96 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) 
of Oriental granite. Houdon's statue of St. 
Bruno. Domenichino's wonderful frescos, and 
tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. 
Other halls of the Baths are now military store- 
houses, etc.; as also is the Carthusian Monas- 
tery^ one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, 
and 'was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the 
Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat. 

The Patriarchal Basilica of S- Maria Maggiore 
is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned 
with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. 
high, with bronze statue of Madonna. First ch. 



398 ITALY. Rome. — S. Prasbede. 

here built by Pope Liberius (.in 352), on ground 
indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August. 
The present nave (297 x 57 ft.) built in 432-40, 
with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of 
Juno), and 5th-century mosaics on architrave, 
walls, and arch. Impressive facade, with 5 por- 
tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interest- 
ing old mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry 
sarcophagus containing St. Matthew's remains, 
with canopy on 4 porphyry columns; Borghese 
Chapel, with altar of lapis lazuli and agate, and 
Madonna painted by St. Luke, Chapel (with 10 
porphyry columns) containing manger-cradle of 
Christ; tombs of 6 popes; sumptuous Sixtine 
Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from 
America was given to the Pope by Ferdinand 
and Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. 
Like St. Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich 
in gems and mosaics, should be visited several 
times. 

Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where 
domestic animals are blessed on third week in 
Jan.; Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a. d. 262); 
S. E'liseMo, frescoed by Raphael Mengs; tower 
of Aqua Claudia; S. Prassede (882; restored in 
1450 and 1869), wUh 9th-century mosaics, col- 
umn at which Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. 
Praxedis and Pudentiana. and Chapel of Garden 
of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; S. Piiclen- 
ziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th- 
century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried be- 
neath); S. Martina ai Monti (500), a basilica 
with 42 antique columns, and frescos by Pous- 
sin; and S. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by 
Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter's chains, 
with 20 antique Doric columns, fine bronze 



ITALY. Rome.— Paxtheon. 399 

doors, and Michael Augelo's famous statue of 
Moses. 

The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old 
Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's 
son-in-law, Agrippa, b. c. 27; burnt under Titus 
and Trajan; restored by Septinaus Severus and 
Caracalla; consecrated by Boniface IV., in 609, 
as Ch. of -S. Maria ad Martyres ; deformed by 
its 2 companiles, by Bernini; stripped of its 
bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius 
IX. Great excavations are now in progress, re- 
vealing Roman works and buildings. The vast 
round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once 
covered with marble. The portico (now below, 
hut once above, the square) has 16 huge mono- 
lithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, 
with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Stat- 
ues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. 
The circular interior is very impressive; and is 
lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre 
of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled 
dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was 
ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded 
bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople 
in 6.55; and all the other bronzes were used in 
making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy 
in St. Peter's. The 7 niches in which statues of 
the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Ra- 
phael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardi- 
nal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, 
Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Pe- 
rino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King 
Victor Emmanuel of Italy. 

The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of 
the Pantheon, was built in 12S5 on site of Temple 
of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Fra 



400 ITALY. Rome. — Paxazzo Farnese. 

Angelico, Urban VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and 
Clement VII; Michael Angelo's Christ and many 
choice works of art. Adjacent Government 
building was headquarters of Dominican Order, 
in which Galileo retracted his statement about 
the earth's motion. Great library here, 120,000 
vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio 
(1626), and Collegio Romano, in which is fa- 
mous Kircherian Museum of archeology (10-4 
daily, 11; Sun., 10-1, free). 

S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has Lombs of 
Pius II. and III., and Donienichino's celebrated 
Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, de- 
signed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Co- 
lonne (1536) with statue of Discus-thrower; 
great Palazzo Braschi; Pasquino statue; ruins 
of Pompey's TheaU'e ; Chiesa Nuova (1605), 
with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great 
library; Palazzo della Cancelleria. very elegant, 
designed by Bramante; busy Piazza di Campo 
dei Fiori; vast Palazzo Farnese (Mon., Wed., 
Fri., 10-3, 11.), built by Sangallo and Michael 
Angelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the French 
Government, and splendidly frescoed by Annibale 
Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); 
Palazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with statues 
and reliefs (Mon., Wed., Sat., 10-3, 50c.); and 
many other famous chs. and palaces. 

The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting 
fountains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, 
Ornani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces; S. Maria 
delV Anima (1514), German national ch., with 
mausoleum of Adrian VI.; and the Spanish na- 
tional ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1484), 
containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Fine clois- 
ter (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483; re- 



ITALY. Rome.— Saxt' Axgelo. 401 

stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's 
mother, and Raphael's famous Propliet Isaiah 
(1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza 
S. ApoUinare. see ch. (1552) with Perugino's 
Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and hand- 
some Palazzo Altemps. S- Luigi de' Francesi 
(1589), on square with Patrlzi, Madama, and 
Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable paint- 
ings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, 
founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a 
library (Alessandria) of 9,000 vols. S. of 
the Gesu, see many palaces and chs.; the Tor- 
toise {Tartariighe) Fountain (1585); Palazzo 
Costaguti (1590). with Albano's and Guercino's 
frescos; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many stat- 
ues in court; Palazzo Cenci. where Beatrice 
Cenci lived; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, 
once the quarter of the Jews; Colonnade of Oc- 
tavia, built by Augustus in honor of his sister; 
Theatre of Marcellus (b. c. 13), 12 hugh arches 
only remaining; and palaces of the Orsini and 
Savelli. 

From, the Bridge of iSt. Angelo to the Vatican. 
— The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by 
Hadrian (a. d. 136) and named Pons JJlius. 10 
colossal angel-statues by Bernini (1688) adorn 
its parapets. At the end rises vast round parapets 
Sant' Angelo (10-4, 11.; Sun., free), built by 
Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue 
on summit), where the Antonines and other 
emperors and their families were buried. Later, 
it was a fortress, which repelled dreadful 
sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down 
its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, 
where Beatrice Cenci. Benvenuto Cellini, Cag- 
liostro. Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., 



402 ITALY. Rome. — St. Peter. 

were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb 
chambers, inclined planes, cells, papal suite 
(where Clement VII. took refuge when Bour- 
bon's troops sacked Rome), and grand view 
from top, on which see bronze angel, commemo- 
rating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel 
Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after 
which the plague ceased to devastate Rome 
(hence name of castle). The castle contains a 
"Museum of the Genius of Italy," the exhibits 
being chiefly in the departments of war and en- 
gineering. A covered way runs hence to the 
Vatican. Near by is enormous Santo Spirito 
Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and found- 
lings (open 2-4), accommodating nearly 5,000 
persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads by several chs. 
and palaces (Giraud^ liicciardi, etc.), and the 
Piazza Rusticucci, where Raphael died, to the 
magnificent St. Peter's Square {Piazza di S. 
Pietro), 1110 x 840 ft. in area, surrounded by 
imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 
1G67, and composed of 284 columns and 90 pilas- 
ters, each 41* ft. high. On the roofs are 126 
colossal statues of saints. In center of square 
(or ratner circle) stands an Obelisk brought by 
Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up 
here in 1586. At each side is a handsome foun- 
tain (46 ft. high). Entrance to St. Peter's in 
front; to the Vatican, to the r., at end of colon- 
nade. St. Peter's was built by Constantine (a. d. 
326), on site of Nero's circus, where St. Peter 
was martyred, uharlemagne and many emper- 
ors and popes were crowned there. In 1450- 
1626 the present ch. was built, having among its 
architects Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael 
Angelo (from his 72d to 79th year), Fontana, 



ITALY. Rome.— St. Peter. 403 

and Bernini. It cost over $6U, 000,000; took 176 
years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and 
covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in 
the world. Total length, 696 ft.; length of tran- 
sept, 450 ft.; length of nave, 619 ft.; width of 
nave, 88 ft. (height, i53 ft.); height of dome 
and cross, 470 fc; diameter, 141 ft. Fagade 
(finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. high, 
crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 
ly ft. high. Portico, 234 x 43 ft. (66 ft. high), 
with colossal statues of Constantine and Charle- 
magne, Giotto's mosaic of La Navicella. and 
brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior 
has 30 altars. i4d columns (mostly from ruins 
of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble pavement (see 
stones showing length of other great chs.), bril- 
liantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pil- 
lars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter 
entbroned, many colossal slatues of saints, vast 
inscriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 
ft. high made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from 
Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter 
(which is approached by marble stairs and sur- 
rounded by 112 ever-burning lamps), wooden 
throne of St. Peter, many vast and beautiful 
chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by 
great masters, and statues of Michael Angelo, 
Canova. Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria So- 
bieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Chris- 
tina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775). see 3 
chapels, many rare pictures by Giotto, etc. In 
Treasury, see candelabra by Cellini and Angelo, 
Charlemagne's dalmatic, and rare jewels. The 
Criipfs are very interesting, with many chapels, 
niosiics. cnrvings. and tombs. 137 popes were 
buried in St. Peiers. Tlie Dome (open daily, 



404 ITALY. Rome.— The Vatican. 

8-11), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the 
roof (to which, 142 steps). Look down into ch. 
from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and 
outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome 
and Campagna), whence you may climb into hall 
under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). 
Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast pro- 
portions. At its side and rear, see ancient Ger- 
man cemetery and hospice; and Palace of the 
Inquisition (now barracks). 

The Vatican, the largest palace in the world, 
adjoins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 
halls and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first 
papal palace here in 498; and Charlemagne 
dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the 
popes lived here, deserting the Lateran; and 
after 1450 the palace was enlarged by succes- 
sive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, 
etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss guards, 
designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splendid 
Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named 
for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 x 45 ft. in area 
(best light at morning). Frescos by Signorelli, 
Botticelli, etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by 
Michael Angelo (1508-11), Creation, Fall, De- 
luge. Prophets, and Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 
64 ft. wide, Angelo's terrible and incomparable 
Last Judgment. See Pauline Chapel (1540), 
with other frescos by Angelo ;^a^a Dvcale, fres- 
cos by Brill; and Sala Regia. historical frescos 
by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Bib- 
lical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beauti- 
ful stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms 
containing the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508- 
20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, 
Heliodorus, Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. 



ITALY. Rome.— LuNGABA. 405 

The Chapel of Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos 
by Fra Angelico (1447). The Picture-Gallery 
contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the 
Roman chs., and placed here when brought back 
from Paris. See Raphael's Transfiguration and 
Madonna di Foiigno, Domenichino's St. Jerome, 
and works of Leonardo, Fra Angelico, Titian, 
Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of Sculptures 
contains 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belve- 
dere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoon, Juno, Min- 
erva Medica, Mercury, Torso, Penelope, Eros, 
etc. See also porphyry sarcophagus of Empress 
Helena; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid 
ancient columns (alabaster, etc); Belvedere 
Court; SaJa delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble 
columns; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon; 
Hall of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapestry of 
Raphael (1515-16), representing Biblical scenes; 
Gregoriaii Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 
12 rooms; Egyptian Museum, 10 rooms; Library 
and Archives, 200,000 vols, and 34.000 MSS. 
(many of them very precious) ; Papal Manufac- 
tory of Mosaics, where 10,000 colors and shades 
of glass are used; and gardens of Vatican. 

Stroll down the riverside. Lungara, nearly 1 
M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are 
St. Peter's and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Pass- 
ing under Gate of the Holy Spirit, ascend to 
S. Onofrio ch. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and 
Mezzofanti. Adjacent monastery has Leonardo's 
Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. Farther down 
Lungara, see fine Palazzo Salriati (now civic 
archives); Botanical Gardens; very beautiful. 
Villa Farnesina (1506). with Raphael's famous 
frescos of Psyche and Galatea; and Palazzo 
Corsini (9-3, 11., Sun., 10-1, free), with 9 halls 



40G ITALY. Rome.— The Capitol. 

of paintings, 8 of books and iMSS.. and a garden 
of rare beauty. Enter, by Porta Settimiana. 
into Trastevere *.from Trans-Tiber), a quarter 
whose inhabitants claim to be direct descend- 
ants of the ancient Romans. See 12th-century 
basilica of 5;. Crisogono. near which mosaic- 
paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of 
old Roman (3d-century) fire department; 
Maria Trastevere, built by Calixtus I. (a. d. 
217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc.: 
St. Cecilia (a. d. 222), with mosaics, broad court, 
portico on African-marble columns, and tomb 
of St. Cecilia, whose house stood on this site. 

On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, com- 
manding a noble panoramic view of Rome and 
mts., see S. Pietro in Montoiio (1500). on site of 
St. Peter's martyrdom, with many ancient paint- 
ings; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent 
monastery, with 16 Doric columns; Acqua Paola 
a magnificent old fountain, outlet of Trajan's 
aqueduct; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near); 
and Villa Doria Pamfili, a very lovely park and 
casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill should 
not be omitted. 

Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the 
Tiber, is the Island of S. Bart.olommeo (an- 
cient bridges from both shores), with Ch. of -S. 
Bartolom.meo (built a. d. 1000), with 14 an- 
cient columns, on site of a heathen temple 
(.T]sculapius was worshipped here). The island 
also has a large monastery, and a fountain- 
adorned square. 

The Capitol is reached by asphalt stairs from 
Piazza Ara Goeli, with Egyptian lions at base, 
and marble Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or 
Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Tro- 



ITALY. Rome. — Capitoline Museum. 407 

phies of Mali us; antique statues of Constan- 
tine and Constans: and male and female wolves, 
caged. The Piazza del Cavipuloglio, planned 
by Michael Angelo and built by Paul III. (1536), 
has in its center the famous and unrivalled an- 
tique bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Au- 
relius. anciently supposed to represent Constan- 
tine. and placed before the Lateran from 1187 
to 1538. The palaces on three sides were built 
or remodelled by Angelo. The Palace of the 
Conservators (r. side; 10-3, 11.; Sun., 10-1, 
free) contains halls of busts of celebrated Ital- 
ians, Latin sculptures, Etruscan museum, great 
halls with frescos from Punic and Cimbrian 
wars, and a gallery of 200-300 paintings. In 
tlie Capitoline Museum (1. side; 10-3, 11.; Sun.. 
10-1, free) see Marforio, the colossa,! river-god, 
and sarcophagi; halls of bronzes and urns; an- 
cient marble plan of Rome; exquisitely fine 
mosaics of Doves of Pliny; 82 antique busts of 
emperors; antique statues of the philosophers 
and gods; and vast number of famous classic 
sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, 
Antinous, rosso-antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, 
and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The 
Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was 
built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. 
It is now the townhall. The campanile (1572) 
commands a fine view, and contains great bell. 
Just S. E. is the Tarpeian Rock. Streets lead 
from Capitol down into Forum. High over 
Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of 
Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of N'. Maria in Ara 
Coeli. with homely front, and interior adorned 
with 22 antique columns of assorted sizes, many 
paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St. 



408 ITALY. Rome. — Teajan's Column. 

Helena, etc. Adjacent is splendid Franciscan 
monastery (1251), with two courts, now a bar- 
rack. While hearing the monks chant in Ara 
Cceli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his 
famous history. 

The Mamertine Prison, between Ara Cceli and 
Forum, was built by the early kings of Rome, 
very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, 
Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies; and 
here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pil- 
lar to which he was chained). 

Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th- 
century Ch. of *S. Teodoi'o; temple of Janus 
Quadrifrons, built in Constantine's time; 4th- 
century basilica of 8. Giorgio in Velahro. with 
antique columns; Arcus Argentarius, built by 
merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium (cattle- 
market) to Septimius Severus; mouth of great 
sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of S. 
Maria in Cosmedin, on site and with columns of 
Kmg Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with 
handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple 
(of Vesta, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 
20) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionic tem- 
ple, now Ch. of /S. Maria Egiziaca; House of 
Rienzi (10th-century) ; and Ponte Rotto {Pom 
JEmilius) , with suspension-bridge filling place 
of arches swepc away in 1598, leading to Tras- 
tevere 

Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base 
and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a 
spiral bas-relief, '6 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on 
which are 2,500 human figures, illustrating 
events of Dacian war. Trajan was buried be- 
neath. Stairs inside to top. Close by, see re- 
mains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a. d. 111-114, 



ITALY. Rome.— The Forum. 409 

by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and 
once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, 
chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto (1507). 
Near by are fragments of Forum of Augustus, 
of which a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 
columns of Temple of Mars Ultor remain. The 
Academy of St. Luke (open 9-6) contains statu- 
ary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine 
old paintings, including veiled pictures by Tit- 
ian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by 
is an imposing fragment of Nervals Forum. 

The Palace of the Caesars consists of enor- 
mous ruins on the Palatine, the original site 
of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, 
Catiline. Cicero, Augustus, Tiberius. Vespasian, 
Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. In the early part of 
the 19th century Palatine was a hill of vine- 
yards, with convents, but the emperors of Rus- 
sia and France began excavations, which Italy 
has continued (open daily, 11.; Sun. free). 
Enter from Forum, and see Museum, with arti- 
cles found here; foundations of Caligula's pal- 
ace; parts of Tiberius's palace; handsome pri- 
vate house of Livia, with mural paintings; 
Flavian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of 
Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs 
hewn in rock; school-house; and other very 
interesting ruins. (Get local guide.) 

The Forum Romanum (daily, 11.; Sun., free) 
was a marshy space between the Capitol and 
Palatine, the baitle-ground of Sabines and Rom- 
ans, afterwards the center of their state, embel- 
lished with many splendid temples and statues, 
the scene of many famous events, and seat of 
the councils which ruled the world. After the 
fall of Rome, some of the temples became 



410 ITALY. Rome.— The Forum. 

chs. and others were torn down for building 
materials; and the troops who came to the aid 
of Hildebrand, in the 11th century, completed 
the destruction. Over this ruhbish-heaped Cam- 
po Vaccino (cow-pasture), for-tresses and houses 
arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the 
ground, but little was done until 1803. Since 
1871 extensive works have been carried on. The 
original level was 30 ft. below the present. The 
remains of the Tabularium (built b. c. 87), 
vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables 
of decrees and records, now serve as founda- 
tions for Palace of the Senator. See its ponder- 
ous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. 
The marble Arch of Septimiiis Severus is cov- 
ered with sculptures of the victories of Septi- 
mius, and his sons, Caracalla and Geta, over 
the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it 
became a mediaeval castle; was excavated in 
1803. Back of it are remains of Temple of Con- 
cord (b. c. 366. restored by Tiberius), where the 
Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached 
Catiline. The tall white columns near by per- 
tained to the Temple of Yespasian (once of Jupi- 
ter Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by 
Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the 
Schola Xantlia. the home of the official scribes, 
and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built 
A. D. 367, by an anti-Christian praefect). 8 gran- 
ite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's Tem- 
ple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by 
were the orators' tribunes [rostra), often used 
by Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra 
have beautiful reliefs. Remains of the t07nb of 
Romulus with early Latin inscriptions were un- 
earthed in 1899. The Column of Phocas was 



ITALY. Rome.— Via Sacra. 411 

erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor. 
Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 149 ft., built 
by Csesar, with parts of its many pillars remain- 
ing. 8 Parian-marble columns still stand on 
site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux 
(built B. c. 484; rebuilt a. d. 6). On E. are foun 
dations of Teynple of Caesar, where Mark An- 
thony delivered his funeral oration. The Tern 
vie of Faustina (a. d. 141), with 10 marble col 
umns, encloses the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. 
An ancient burial vault was discovered here in 
1902. Numerous vaulted passages beneath the 
pavement of the Forum were discovered during 
the excavations in 1901. Seventh century ch. 
of 8. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia. The 
Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to 
Capitol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular 
-Temple of Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo 
and Damian, with porphyry columns, bronze 
doors, 6th-century mosaics, and tombs of saints. 
The Basilica of Constantine, originally 300 
by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches re- 
maining (beautiful view from top). Back of 
ch, of 8. Francesca Romana (interesting tombs 
and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of 
Venus and Rome, designed by Hadrian, who 
would be architect as well as emperor (a. d. 135). 
The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus, small, but 
very interesting and graceful, commemorates 
the victories over the Jews, a. d. 70. It was a 
mediaeval fortress of the Frangipani. See the 
bas-reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to 
the vast building named, from Colossal statue 
of Nero, the Colosseum, Rome's chief marvel. 
It was founded by Vespasian and finished by 
Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (a. d. 



412 ITALY. Rome. — Arch of Constantine. 

80); 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain 
at its inauguration; the scene of countless fights 
of gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnifi- 
cent celebration of 1000th anniversary of Rome's 
foundation (a. d. 248); afterwards fortress of 
Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc.; in 14th and 15th 
centuries a quary, its fine masonry being used 
to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Marco, and 
other vast palaces; about 1750 redeemed, and 
consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an 
ellipse, 1/3 M. around and 156 ft. high., with 
arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be 
flooded for naval combats; 50,000 spectators 
could be accommodated. Only 1/3 of the Colos- 
seum now stands. Visit it by moonlight also. 
The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most 
beautiful in Rome, commemorates the victory 
over Maxentius (311), the Pagan emperor, and 
stands on the Triumphal Way. The best of the 
many sculptures were taken from an older 
monument of Trajan. Pius VII. unburied this 
arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of sumptu- 
ous Baths of Titus (50c.), on the Esquiline, on 
part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful 
mural paintings here, which suggested Raphael's 
frescos in Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the old- 
est ch. in Rome, is midway between the Colos- 
seum and Lateran. Upper ch. is a basilica, with 
16 antique columns, old mosaics, and rich can- 
opy. The lower ch., built before 392, and dam- 
aged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has 
been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique 
columns and 5th-century frescos (very interest- 
ing). Still farther down are remains of St. 
Clement's (4th pope) house, discovered in 1867. 
Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. 



ITALY. Rome.— ScALA Santa. 413 

Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Dio- 
cletian, — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's 
Normans, and restored in 1111; S. Stefano Ro- 
tondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built 
by Simplicius in 470, with 56 columns and many 
frescos of terrible martyrdoms; La Navicella, 
rebuilt in 817, with many columns of granite 
and porphyry, and 9th-century mosaics; 5th- 
century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist 
monastery and garden; S. Gregorio (575), 16 
antique columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a 
bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting de- 
tached chapels. 

The broad Piazza di 8. Giovanni in Laterno 
has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with ped- 
estal, 153 ft), erected at Thebes, b. c. 1560; 
brought to Rome by Constantine, a. d. 357; and 
set up here in 1587. On one side. Women's 
Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 
marble steps (brought to Rome by Empress 
Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have 
entered Pilate's palace at Jerusalem. They 
are ascended on the knees only, and lead to very 
sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside the wall 
of Rome, and overlooking the Campagna and 
mts., stands the venerable basilica of S. Gio- 
vanni in Laterano, on whose front is inscribed 
Omnium, urhis et orbis ecclesiarum mater et 
caput. This is the Pope's ch. as Bishop of Rome; 
at St. Peter's he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. 
Five ecumenical councils were held here, be- 
tween 1123 and 1512. Constantine built the 
• first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani fam- 
ily. Present ch. built 1360-1734. Fagade with 
colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constan- 
tine. Interior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, 



414 ITALY. Rome. — Lateran Palace. 

inlaid pavement, massive pillars with 24 stat- 
ues of Prophets and Apostles, bronze statue of 
Martin V., Altar of the Sacrament (with an- 
tique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old 
mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., 
magnificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with prec- 
ious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble 
and gold), Donatello's wooden statue of St. 
John the Baptist, Bernini's Pieta, and the great 
Papal altar, over which is a canopy containing 
heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th- 
century monastery court adjacent; also octag- 
onal Baptistry, in which it is said that Con- 
stantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, 
basalt, font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century 
mosaics, and 3 oratories (built in 461 and 640). 
In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes dwelt for 
a thousand years (to 1377). Present palace 
built in 1586; and in 1843 converted into vast 
and interesting museums of antique sculptures 
(Tues., Thurs., 10-3, 11.; Sat., 10-1, free) and 
Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (from 
catacombs and picture-gallery (Mon., Wed., Fri., 
10-3, 11.) filling 8 rooms, with remarkable 
Latin mosaics. 

S. Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely fields 
between Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 
4th-century basilica, founded by Empress Hel- 
ena, on earth brought from Jerusalem, with 
mosaics, frescos, tombs of saints, and the In- 
scription on the Cross. Cistercian monastery 
adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of 
(jastrensimi Amphitheatre, etc. To N. ruins of 
3d-century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica. 
once rich in statues ; and near rly.. 8. Bihi- 
ana, with antiiiue columns inside. In casino 



ROME. Baths of Caracalla. 415 

of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Laterano, rich mod- 
ern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by 
Overbeck, Sebnoor, etc. Villa Wolkojisky near by. 

The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at 
Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. 
square), with chamber 19 x 13 ft., where the 
tribune Caius Cestius was buried (b. c, 30). 
Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with 
graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart 
of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely 
Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely 
of broken pottery, crowned by a cross (grand 
view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers' grot- 
tos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium 
and quays of Marmorata; also 3 chs. on Aven- 
tine; S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica form, 
with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian 
marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican 
monastery (beautiful cloisters) ; S. Alessio^ very 
ancient, restored in 1217, with Hieronymite 
monastery adjoining; and S. Maria Aventina. 
with tombs of Knights of Malta, whose priory 
is close by. 

The Baths of Caracalla (daily, 11.), nearly 1 
M. from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina, 
a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show 
remains of their ancient vastness and magnifi- 
cence. They cover an area 1 080 ft. square, and 
could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Caracalla was 
the founder (a. d. 212). Many famous statues 
wer^ discovered here. Splendid view from roof. 
Near by, see ch. of S/S. Nereo ed Achilleo, built 
by Leo. III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, 
in basilica style; >S'. Sisto, and convent of S. 
Domenico; very ancient 8. Cesareo; and, near 
the closed Porta Latina, old chs. of -S. Giovanni, 



416 ITALY. Appian Way. 

and a Latin tomb. Beyond TomJ) of the Scipios 
(50c.) and Columbaria, the street passes the 
mutilated Ai'ch of Drusus (b. c. 8), and enters 
the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. 

The Appian Way (called Regina Viarum) was 
begun B. c. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to 
Capua, and afterwards to Brindisi, forming 
main route to S. Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By 
order of Pius IX. it was excavated as far as 
Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly., to Albano. Beau- 
tiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, 
and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., 
a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus, 
a handsome little building or Hadrian's era; the 
Grotto of Egeria; a red-brick 2d-century tomb, 
or temple, now the ch. of S. Urbano (with fres- 
cos of A. D. 1011); and the tombs of the Via 
Latina. On Via Appia are Catacombs of S. Ca- 
lixtus (11.), with tombs of St. Cecilia and 
many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 
7th-century Byzantine paintings. Catacombs of 
Domitilla and 8. Praetextatus near by. A quar- 
ter of a mile beyond is very ancient S. Sebas- 
tiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs 
(11.). Farther on see remains of Circus of 
Maxentius. built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats 
for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands the 
famous Tomb of Caecilia Metella, round, 65 ft. 
in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now 
vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the 
Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, 
and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. 
Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged 
arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. Six 
M, out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb; and it 
is 8 M. thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone 



ITALY. The Campagna. 417 

is Tomh of Seneca (so called), near site of Sen- 
eca's house, and also near ruins of beautiful 
little Temple of Jupiter, where many Christians 
suffered martrydom. Three tumuli, 1 M. be- 
yond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii 
and Curiati. At 9th milestone are ponderous 
brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gal- 
lineus. 

Outside the Porta Pia at the end of the Via 
Venti Settembre is the Campo Militare, or 
parade ground, and alongside this the large 
PoUclinico, or city dispensary. 

Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a 
great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between 
the sea and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ra- 
vines and low steep hills. Pools of water col- 
lect here in winter, and stagnate in summer, 
forming breeding places for the mosquitos which 
transmit the terrible malaria which makes 
Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tour- 
ist should see Italy in her fair summer attire; 
and an August sojourn may be made at Rome 
with entire safety, by taking due precautions. 
Moreover the Campagna is being draiuetl. and 
is yearly growing less - unhealthful. Trolley 
cars now run from Rome to Frascati, Albano, 
and Genzano. 

The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lo- 
renzo fuori le Mura, f M. beyond Poi-ta di S. Lo- 
renzo, on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by 
Constantine; rebuilt in 578; remodelled in 1216; 
and restored in 1864-70. See bronze statue of 
St. Lawrence, in square; facade with frescos of 
founders; 10th-century mosaic pavement; 22 
antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open 
roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Cor'nth- 



418 ITALY. S. Paolo fuori le Mura. 

ian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble col- 
umns, in presbytery; silver shrine with remains 
of St. Lawrence; beautiful 13th-century cloister 
adjacent. Great cemetery near. In vestibule 
Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese 
fuori le Mura, beyond the Patrizi and Torlonia 
villas, I5 M. outs' de Porta Pia, was built by Con- 
stantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and restored in 
625 and 1856. Beyond the court, 45 marble steps 
lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 
16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle 
(with porphyry columns) over alabaster statue 
of St. Agnes. Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by 
Constantine as tomb of his daughter Constantia, 
with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, 
porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th 
century mosaics. 

S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 1* M. from Porta S. 
Paolo, on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on 
site of a deeply venerated church built by Con- 
stantine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently 
enriched and enlarged by emperors and popes, 
but burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated- 
in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing 
proportions, is 390 x 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. 
high (inside). Wonderfully impressive nave, 
and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon- 
granite columns, whose bases and capitals are 
of marble; long lines of mosaic portraits of all 
the popes; and stained-glass windows. See ala- 
baster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt; ma- 
lachite altars, given by tne Czar; 5th century 
mosaics; splendid altar canopy (1285); and rich 
chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secular- 
ized) Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding 
orange-grove. Two M, hence is 8. Sebastiano 



ITALY. Monte Mario. 419 

(p. 416); and out on Via Ardeatina (1^-2 M.) 
are abbey and three chs. (393-1599) of Tr© 
Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded. 

The handsome Ponte Molle, H M. (dull road) 
from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on 
site of Milvian Bridge, built b. c. 109, where 
Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by 
Constantine (a. d. 312). Two M. out is Aqua 
Acetosa, a famous old mineral-spring, beyond 
the once sumptuous villa which Vignola built 
for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are 
the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the 
Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin. 

Monte Mario, li M. from Porta Angelica, is a 
bold hill (road to top), 476 ft. high, command- 
ing superb view of Rome, the Campagna, the 
mts., and the sea. There are several villas here, 
among which see Yilla Mellini, famed for its 
prospect, and Villa Wladama, designed by Ra- 
phael, and owned in turn by Clement VII, the 
Parnese family, and the King of Naples. See 
loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano. 

±he Via Nomeiitana leads from Porta Pia, 2 
M., from which it crosses the Anio by an an- 
cient bridge. IJ M. beyond is the famous Mons 
Sacer; and the road is prolonged to the battle- 
field of Mentana (1867). 

The Via Praenestina leads rrom Porta Mag- . 
giore to (2 M.) the Torre del Schiavi, a favorite 
resort of artists. It is a large group of very 
obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of 
Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a ch. and 
a castle. Three M. from Porta Maggiore, on 
Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum 
of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). 

The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from 



420 ITALY. Alba NO. 

Porta Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, 
with scanty remains of temple and hall of an- 
cient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres 
Arvales, founded by the foster-brothers of Rom- 
ulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, 
see well-preserved Catacombs of 8. Generosa; 
also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La Mag- 
liana, once frescoed by Raphael. 

The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate 
to (2i M.) the ancient stone bridge over the 
Anio, destroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, 
and blown up in 1867. On far-viewing height 
close by stood Antemnae, a town destroyed by 
Romulus; and 4 M. beyond, near Castle Giubileo 
(built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), are the scanty 
, ruins of Fidenae. 

Albano (Hotel de la Poste, or de V Europe; 
Ristorante Salustri) is 18 miles from Rome by 
rly. across Campagna, crossing lines of aque- 
ducts and Via Latina. Climb of J hr. (2^ M.) 
from Stat, to Albano (omnibus, ^1.). You can 
drive hither over Appia7i Way. At Albano were 
Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great Albanum, the 
vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the 
mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many 
Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open 
to visitors). The high situation of Albano 
(1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite 
summer-resort. Beyond the Villa Barherini is 
the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still 
the property of the Pope. Beautiful view from 
Capuchin Monastery . Good roads on upper and 
lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct 
crater, shaded with trees, and one of the loveli- 
est of Italian lakes. The Romans (b. c. 397) 
cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock. 



I 



ITALY. Frascati. 421 

and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. 
Alba Lofiga was near by. A magnificent arcaded 
stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. long and 192 ft. high 
'f (built 1846-63), crosses the glen from Albano 
: to ancient Ariccia (Laiirenti) , a town and pal- 
\ ace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead 
I through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a 
! village near reputed camp or Hannibal. The 
' Via Triumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo 
(3,130 ft. high; very broad view), where are 
remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, 
the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passion- 
ist monastery founded here in 1783). This 
region is described by Virgil in last books of 
/Eneid, where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes 
the Latin and Roman armies. Beautiful scen- 
ery toward Genzano (Pizzotto) , 3 M. from Al- 
bano whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake 
of Nemi, 2^ M. around, and 300 ft. deep, in an 
extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake, which 
was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple 
of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had 
a splendid vessel afloat. 

Frascati {Frascati; di Londra; Tusculum) , 15 
M. by ry. from Rome, is on a foot-hill of the Al- 
ban Mts., in a very healthy climate. It has many 
fine old 16th century villas, among which see 
Aldotrandini, with fine fountains and oak 
groves; Falconieri (1550), with many pictures 
and pretty gardens; Rufjinella, now owned by 
Prince Lancelotti; Mondragone, now a Jesuit's 
school; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. 
A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, found- 
ed by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of 
Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out 
valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed 



422 ITALY. Tivoli. 

by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman am- 
phitheatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, 
reservoir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel 
(2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view. Three 
M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotto Ferrata, 
a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), 
with famous frescos by Domenichino. Hence a 
guide will lead in 1^ hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and 
Monte Cavo. Four and a half M. distant is Ma- 
rino, and old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., cap- 
tured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. 
Good pictures in the three chs. Three M. hence 
is rly. stat., 35 min. from Rome. Pleasant road 
also to Castel Gandolfo and Albano. 

Tivoli (Regina: SibiJIa; Sirena) is 25 M. from 
Rome. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 
centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camil- 
lus, B. c. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Pro- 
pertius, and Catullus; and here Zenobia passed 
her captivity. Augustus, Hadrian, and other em- 
perors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a 
huddled town of 15,000 inhab. One M. out is Had- 
rian's Villa (adm. 1 1., Sun. free), once the finest 
in the world, with many imposing buildings, co- 
vering several square miles. It was destroyed by 
Totila's Goths, and only the most fragmentary 
ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian 
Temple of the Sybil (probably dedicated to Her- 
cules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple ad- 
jacent (now ch. of 8. Giorgio) command a fine 
view of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Nep- 
tune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 330 ft. 
high; the smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many 
other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman 
ruins; also, Villa Braschi, overlooking Campag- 
na, and Villa d' Este (1549), with very lovely 



ITALY. OsTiA. 423 

gardens and ancient frescos. Many charming ex- 
cursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gen- 
naro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by 
bridle path. It is 1* M. from Tivoli to Valley of 
Licenza, site of Horace's Sabine farm. Twenty 
three M, (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco 
(La Pernice; Aniene) , a mediaeval castle- 
crowned town, built on remains of Nero's villa, 
and with very famous monastries of S. Scolas- 
tica and 8. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters 
on site where St. Benedict lived. 

Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome, 12 from Fras- 
cati, 4i from Valmontone stat., was the ancient 
Praeneste; conquered by Camillus (b. c. 380); 
headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman sum- 
mer-resort (see Horace) ; scene of terrible wars 
between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; 
and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. 
See Cyclopean walls, immense but shapeless 
Roman ruins, Barberini Palace, Colonna fortress 
(13-22), and vast view over Campagna. 

Bracciano (Piva) , 24 M. from Rome, has a 
wonderful old Gothic castle of lava, which Sir 
Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by 
the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. 
Fine view from tower. Adjacent lake is 20 M. 
around; abounds in eels. 

Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near the mouth of the 
Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has 
scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly de- 
feated here about a. d. 850. See S. Aurea Epis- 
copal Palace, and tombs, temples and baths of 
adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. 
Two M. hence is very interesting Casth: Fusano. 
a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1* M. from 
the sea, in a great pine-forest. 



424 ITALY. Rome to Naples. 

There are many other deeply interesting ex- 
cursions near Rome . See Hare's Days Near 
Rome, Baedeker's Central Italy, Murray, Hach- 
ette, or Cook. 

Naples, Bala, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. 

Express trains, Rome to Naples, 5* hrs. ordi- 
nary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). Some travel- 
lers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by rly., 
and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely 
view entering the Bay of Naples. 

Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence, and 
Rome, in 53 hrs. 

Naples is a convenient point of departure for 
Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequent- 
ly for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Palermo, Gre- 
noa, Leghorn, and Marseilles. 

A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M.; 5-6 hrs.) from 
Naples across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggie, on 
the Adriatic, connecting there with rly. to Brin- 
disi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. 
Italy. By this route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna. 

The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, 
an ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with 
fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4^ M. from Anagni, 
a famous old papal town; Ferentino stat., 
3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician 
hill-town, with castle, cathedral and huge poly- 
gonal walls; Frosinone stat, 2^ M. from beauti- 
fully situated hill-town of Frosinone, and 9 or 
10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclo- 
pean walls; Geprano stat., 2* M. from Ceprano, 
and the stat. for Falls of the Liris and the Cice- 
ro's Villa; Aquino, birthplace of Emperor Pes- 
cennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas; 
Cassino (or S. Germano) , a busy town, with Ro- 
man amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and tombs (a 



ITALY. Naples. 425 

climb of 1^ hr. leads to the world-renowned and 
magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte 
Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless 
views) ; Teano, with great castle and Roman re- 
mains; Capua a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad 
plain of Campania Felice, with noble basilica, 
fortress, triumphal arch, ancient chs.; and S 
Maria^ on site of ancient Capua, with amphi- 
theatre for 100,000 persons, and other Roman 
ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and 
populous plain of the Terra di Lavwo, to 
Naples. 

Naples is a city of 550,000 inhab., with little 
of architectural of antiquarian interest, but 
blest with a superb situation, mild climate, and 
beautiful environs. It is built on the amphithe- 
atrical slopes of hills, sheltering it from the N. 
wind, and nearly bisected by the abrupt ridge 
of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view includes a 
semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the 
bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and 
crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its 
old name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1* M. from Pa- 
lazzo Reale, near the harbor. The vast and inte- 
resting. 

Hotels: BertoUni's; Parkers; Bristol; Excel- 
sior; Macpherson's; Eden; Savoy; Santa Lucia; 
Metropole; Yictoria; du Vesuve; Grayid ; des 
£itrangers; Splendid; Crrandc BrctiKjnc : de 
Londres. 

Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving 
at Naples, by excise oflBcers, but formaMties are 
slight. 

Conveyances. — One-horse cab, SO c. to 1 1. 
10 c; Two-horse cab, 1 I. 50 c. to 1 1. 80 c; bag- 
gage 20c. apiece. Small boats from steamship 



426 ITALl. Naples. 

to shore, 1 1. each person, 1* with usual baggage. 
Pay no attention to extortionate demands, with 
which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beg- 
gars and people who offer their services. 

National Museum (open daily, 10-4, 11.; chil- 
dren, ^1.; no fees allowed; free, Sunday, 9-1), is 
in old Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied 
by University, 1615-1780. There is a good hand- 
book. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from 
Pompeii, etc.;. epigraphic collection; long range 
of rooms with Egyptian and Etruscan antiqui- 
ties; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, 
including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, Mercury, 
Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca; 18,000 small 
bronze objects from Pompeii, etc.; immense col- 
lections of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumtean 
antiquities, numismatic objects ; many marble 
and bronze statues, including. Farnese Bull (res- 
tored by Michael Angelo). Farnese Hercules, 
Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean Flora, Nile, 
Farnese Juno, ^Eschines, Balbus; famous mo- 
saics of Battle of Issus and Triifmph of Bacchus; 
great collection of papyri MSS., from Hercula- 
neum; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; 
and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from 
Pompeii. The Picture Gallery has 800 paintings, 
Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, Roman, Vene- 
tian, German, and Flemish, including several by 
Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library 
has 400.000 vols., 8,000 MM'S., and many val- 
uable autographs. 

The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, 
is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posi- 
lippo ridges and the harbor, with pretty parks. 
(Villa Xazionale. music Sun., Tues., and 
Thurs. afternoon and evening) along waterside. 



ITALY. Naples. 427 

t: In the park are the buildings of the Zoological 
••* Station, among them the celebrated Aquarium. 
i On E. projecting into the sea, is the black and 
] gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often beseiged 
j and now a prison. Thence Strada 8. Lucia leads 
I to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. 
j Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one 
i may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column 
! of the martyrs for liberty and the Miranda Pa- 
\ lace, to the center of the city. 

The Palazzo Reale (Sun. and Thurs., 11-4, 
50 c.) was built m 1600, by order of Phillip III. 
of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. It is 554 ft. 
long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and 
many fine old paintings and carvings, and view 
of harbor from garden. Opposite, across hand- 
some Piazza del Plehiscito. is S. Francesco di 
Paola. a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 30 
marble Corinthian columns supporting dome, 
altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli,_ and 
many modern pictures. Near by see Palace of 
Prince of Salerno (official residence). Foreste- 
ria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of 
the Bourbons, Charles III., and Ferdinand I. 
Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo 
(1737), one of the largest in the world. See 
public scribes in arcades; and statues of Horse- 
Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- 
tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, 
and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the 
home 01 the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and 
the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal 
Arch (1470), armory, and ch. of /S. Scbastiano 
with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal 
(1577); Porto JMilitare, with Italian iron-clads; 
busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor; and 



428 ITALY. Naples. 

Molo, a long breakwater, witn battery and light- 
house (ascend this, for view). Across the 
square before the Castle stands the handsome 
Municipal Palace. 

S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splen- 
did mausoleum of Spanish Viceroy Don Pedro 
de Toledo. Near by is beautiful fountain, erect- 
ed in 1695 by Duke of Medina Cell; also, Incoro- 
nata ch. (1352), with interesting Giottesque 
frescos; and Palazzo Fo-ndi, with picture-gallery. 

The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery 
(1411) on Yia di Roma, is now a market. Here 
Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable 
old tombs and pictures. In the rear, see 8. 
Maria la Nuova (1268; restored in 1596), with 
famous frescos and tombs; and Post-Office, in 
beautiful old Palazzo Gravina (1500). Farther 
along Yia di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now 
a bank), with richly frescoed hall; and Palazzo 
Angri (1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. 
Strada S. Trinitd leads to r. towards Gesit Nu- 
ova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is 
refectory of 8. Chiara, with Giottesque frescos) ; 
S. Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of Bour- 
bons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise 
(1343), pulpit on four lions, and Madonna by 
Giotto; lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), 
on a square between palaces, and containing 27 
princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, altar 
of Florentine mosaic, tombs of the Aragonese 
sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, 
banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of 
Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and 
many pictures; cell and lecture-room of Thomas 
Aquinas (1272); Chapel of 8. Severo (1590), 
crowded with decoration, and containing re- 



ITALY. Naples. 429 

markable sculptures of Man in the Net and 
Christ in Winding-Sheet; 88. Angela e Nilo (13- 
85); University (1224), in old Jesuit College, 
with 5 faculties, and very good library (open 
9-3): S. Severino e Sosio, with notable tombs 
and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (ad- 
jacent Benedictine monastery has priceless ar- 
chives of Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning 
A. D. 703); Palazzo Santangelo (1466), with pic- 
ture-gallery; Castello Capuano (1231), once 
home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 
1540) of Spanish and present law-courts; and 
Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece 
of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from 
the Gate, was built 1272-13±4, on site of Temple 
of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and 
tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs 
of 2 popes, 2 kings of Hungary, etc. Adjacent is 
8. Restituta, a basilica with uorinthian columns, 
and baptistry attributed to Constantine (a. d. 
333); also, magnificent Chapel of 8t. Januarius 
(1608), rich in gold and silver, precious stones, 
and other adornments, and enshrining the blood 
of the saint. A mile and a half beyond the Ca- 
puan Gate are the great cemeteries, the Neio, 
with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 cha- 
pels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the 
burial of the poor; and the Protestant, with 
many English and American graves. 

Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see 8. 
Annunziata (1757); Porta Xolana; the huge 
Castello del Carmine (1484). now a barrack and 
prison; 8. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and 
noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mer- 
cato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), 
with three fountains; Carynine Gate, with two 



430 ITALY. Naples. 

massive towers; and a very extensive quarter, 
with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crow- 
ded with picturesque Neapolitans, macaroni-ped- 
dlers, story tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a 
■Garbotiara (1344), N. of Cathedral, has splendid 
mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther 
N. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-House. 
Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see S. Fi- 
lippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. Paolo 
Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many 
ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), 
with many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch 
and Boccaccio have been here); the Grothic S. 
Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adja- 
cent, now a school of music, where Bellini was 
taught, and Mercadante was director. 

Opposite Museum stands Ginnasio Vittorio 
Emanuele (1757), with 26 statues, and a statue 
of Dante in front. From 8th-century ch. of S. 
Gennaro, enter the Catacombs (fee, 11.), exca- 
vated by ancient Christians, and much broader 
and higher than those at Rome. Myriads of 
dead have been buried here. Farther out is 
Capodimonte Palace (Thurs. and Sun., 10_4, per- 
mission obtained gratis at the Palazzo Reale on 
Wed. and Sat., 11-12), built for the Bourbon 
Mngs (1738-1839), witt'h long lines of state-rooms, 
many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, 
and lovely views. fM. distant is the Observa- 
tory, on far-viewing crest of Capodimonte. 

Castel Sant' Elmo (1243), 876 ft. above the 
bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It 
is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military 
prison) overlooking the city and sea. Close by 
is old Carthusian monastery of S. Martino (10 
-4, 11.; Sun., 9-1, free); built in 1325. See 



ITALY. Excursions from Naples. 431 

museum of majolica, ivories, etc.; very beauti- 
ful cloisters, surrounded by white-marble col- 
umns, and adorned with statues; and magnifi- 
cent ch., lined with choice marbles and mosaics, 
and adorned with ^£amous paintings. Exquisite 
views from this monastery. 

Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja 
and Villa Nazionale with their statues, temples, 
and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the 
shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea-views, 
and by numerous villas, and the insulated 17th 
century Palace of Do7ina Anna (now in ruins). 
Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is 
the great mausoleum of the poet Sannazaro. 
The road W. from the Chiaja leads through 
Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel in the 
rock, i M. long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut 
through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. 
Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil 
(^1.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. 
Petrarch and King Robert visited this spot, and 
planted laurel. Near by was Virgil's villa, 
where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgics. 
Road through tunnel leads to grotto of 
Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky 
ridge by Nerva (b. c. 37), and repaired by 
Honorius (a. d. 400). It is 2/3 M. long, and 
higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near 
by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- 
lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on 
islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visi- 
ted Brutus (B. c. 44) after he had killed Caesar; 
and afterwards of Queen Johanna II. 's villa 
(15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; 
now drained) is J M. from Fuorigrotta (where 
see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.) ; and near by are 



432 ITALY. Excursions from Naples. 

singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas; also, 
Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, whose 
effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M. 
from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site 
of Greek colony conquered ,by Rome, and later 
chief port of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. 
Here Sylla died; Hadrian was buried; St. Paul 
sojourned 7 days; and Cicero had a villa. See 
remnants of Temples of Serapis (formerly very 
splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), 
and the Nymphs; many Roman tombs; Piscina 
Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery 
(1580) ; Roman quay, now called Bridge of Cali- 
gula; Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi; and 
Amphitheatre (5oc.), seating 30,000, where 
Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King 
of Armenia, and St. Januarius was exposed to 
the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a low crater 
with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many 
fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava 
in 1198); and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill 
(now vineyards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. 
lies Lake Lucrinus, whence the Romans ob- 
tained their best oysters, and the Neapolitans 
get choice fish. Lake Avernus, a picturesque 
crater-pond, 1^ ivl. around, amid chestnuts and 
orange groves, was held to be the entrance to 
the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a 
harbor by cutting a canal to the bay. The fabled 
entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent 
Grotto oj the Sibyl (11.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. 
The Grotta della Pace, I M. long, leads from W. 
shore towards Cumae, cutting through interven- 
ing ridge. 

An excursion should be made to Camaldoli 
(carriage, 6 to 10 1., or on donkey back, 3 to 5 1.) 



ITALY. Baia. 433 

a suppressed monastery where is a superb view 
of sea and land. Ladies are not admitted to the 
monastery but they can obtain a nearby equally 
good view from a garden in the neighborhood. 
Fee for monastery 50c., for garden near, 20c. 

The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, 
containing hot springs, in whose waters eggs 
may be cooked. 

Baia (Vittoria) was the most magnificent of 
summer-resorts in the time of Cicero, Augus-tus, 
and Hadrian, and was praised by Horace. The 
Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys 
built a castle and light-house on the site. Here 
are massive ruins of temples of Venus. Diana, 
and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, Nero, and 
Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and 
other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape 
Miseno, near site of great Roman naval station 
of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 
1 M. from Baia is Lake of Fusaro, 1^ M. N. of 
which are ruins of great Cumas, which was 
founded by Greeks (b. c. 1050), and had pro- 
found influence in Italy, founding Naples, giving 
the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tar- 
quins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- 
quered by the Samnites and Romans. The 
Goths restored it, but the Moslems destroyed 
the town; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans 
annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near by see 
Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views; 
half-buried Amphitheatre; fragments of old 
temples; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, 
64 ft. high. 

Pozzuoli, Baia, Cuma?, etc., may be seen in one 
day by carriage 25 1.; l-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). 



434 ITALY. Mount Vestjv'ius. 

Take guide from Naples (51.) to escape local 
annoyances. 

Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 
30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campa- 
nia, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut 
valleys. In a. d. 79 it had a terrible volcanic 
eruption (described by Pliny and Tacitus), 
since which 60 or more have occurred, entailing 
vast losses of life and the annihilation of many 
villages and cities. Enormous losses were 
caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd 
which watched its beginning, 20 persons were 
swept away and destroyed by the outbursting 
lava. The cable road now obviates much of the 
labor formerly necessary in ascent, though the 
last part of it was destroyed in the eruption of 
1906. Beautiful view from Observatory; and 
from summit you can see a vast area of sea and 
land. Excursion from Naples to summit and re- 
turn, by Cook's Vesuvius Railway, 15 1.; guide 
(necessary) to summit, 2 1, 50 c., exclusive of 
fees of official guide at summit. 

Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later 
a town of Roman villas, was buried by an erup- 
tion of Vesuvius, a. d. 79, and discovered in 
1719, when a well was being dug. Since then, 
excavations have shown that 40-90 ft. beneath 
the present town of Resina is a large and splen- 
did ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, 
papyri, etc., are adorning the museums. It was 
richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply 
buried, and under a more impenetrable cove- 
ring. Little has yet been excavated, but that 
little should be seen (2 1. for guide and torch). 
The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are 



ITALY. Pompeii. 435 

very interesting; the theatre, though immense 
in size, is too dark to be wc seen. 

Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede; Pompeii) is 
nearly 1 hr. from Naples by rly. passing through 
Portici (12,000 inhab.) ; Resina, near La Favori- 
ta, royal chateau, and at foot of Vesuvius; and 
Torre del Greco, swept by 4 streams of lava 
within 300 years. Beautiful views of bay and 
volcano. Read about Pompeii before going 
there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins 
(3 1.; guide furnished; no gratuity; stay as 
long as you like). Pompeii was a Greek com- 
mercial city (B.C. 400-500). which was subju- 
gated by Rome; and became a favorite resort of 
her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). 
It was overthrown by earthquake, a. d. 63 ; re- 
built immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. 
of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2.000 citizens lost 
their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748, 
and are still going on. The walls are Ih M. 
around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. 
wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with 
stepping-stones and fountains at corners. The 
concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; 
the other stories were burnt. The shops, ta- 
verns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very inte- 
resting. Note Temple of Tenus; Forum, where 
main streets converged, with Temple of Jupiter, 
Prison, Basilica, Triumphal Arch, Public Gra- 
nary^ Temple of Mercury, beautiful Chalcidicum, 
Tuicn Hall, Temple of Augustas. See House of 
Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; Triangular 
Fi>rum: the two theatres; barracks of the sol- 
<liers: House of Sculptor, Stahiw Gate, Temple 
of Isis: House of Holconius; vast amphitheatre, 
which seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Ther- 



436 ITALY. Caserta. 

inw, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Mar- 
cus Lucretius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand 
Duke of Tusca7iy,.ot Figured Capitals, of Black 
Walls; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths; House 
of the Vettii; House of the Faun; House op 
Anchor; of Tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it 
in Last Days of Pompeii) ; Fuller's Shop; Great 
and Little Fountains; House of Pansa, of Laby- 
rinth, of Castor and Pollux, of Centaur, of Mele- 
ager, Adonis, Apollo; Academy of music; Bake- 
house; Soapshop; Barber's Shop; Custom 
House; Street of Tombs; and Villa of Diomedes 
(where several bodies were found), beyond 
Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities 
in the museums, especially casts of the bodies 
found in the ruins. You may ride hence on 
horseback (1^ hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesu- 
vius; whence climb (Ihr. on foot) to summit 
(guide and horse, 10 1.). 

Caserta (Vittoria) , about 20 M. from Naples, 
on rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace 
(1752), 834 ft. long and wide, and 134 ft. high, 
with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cas- 
cades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apart- 
ments. See chapel, highly enriched with lapis 
lazuli and gold; and theatre, with 16 antique 
Corinthian columns of African marble. 

No one should leave Naples without having 
visited Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Rly. in 
1 hr, along shore of bay, to Castellamare (Hotel 
Weiss; Quisisana; Stabia) , a famous Neapoli- 
tan summer-resort and Italian naval station 
(33,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of 
Stabiae, and with 13th-century castle, royal cha- 
teau of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. 
Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide 



ITALY. SOREEXTO.— Capri. 437 

and donkey, 5 1.). Here also are famous sul- 
phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent 
road (7| M.; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. 
and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Meta, and a 
delicious paradise of orange and olive groves, 
to Sorrento (Gran Bretagna; Tasso; Vittoria; 
Cocumella; Royal), an ancient seaport on Bay 
of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and 
delightfully cool summer-climate (it faces N.). 
Tasso was born here in 1544. Quaint villages, 
ancient chs., natural curiosities, villas and con- 
vents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and 
points, make this region very charming. Steam- 
boats leave Naples (S. Lucia) daily, for Sor- 
rento, Capri, and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to 
Capri, two hours (bad trip in rough weather). 
Capri (Excelsior; Qiiisisana; Continental; 
Royal; Grotto Bleue) , the "Island of Goats," is 
4^ M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, 
and far-viewing mts., 2,000 ft. high. There are 
4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral fishers. 
Augustus and Tiberius built many villas and 
palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly forti- 
jBed by the English; but Murat captured it five 
years later. On E. see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, 
and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto cli Tiberio, 
whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims 
to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See 
Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village 
of Anacapri. with Barbarossa's castle; and 
Monte Salaro, with superb view. The most cele- 
brated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 
80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by 
beautiful azure sea- water, and lighted and en- 
tered only by a low and narrow aperture, where 
the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 2)1. for 



438 ITALY. Salerno.— Pesto. 

2 persons; 1^ 1. for each additional). The White, 
Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also 
visited by boat. 

Iscriii is a fertile island 15 m. around, with 
25.000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, 
with delightful summer climate, castle of Al- 
fonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamic- 
ciola (damaged in 1883 by earthquake), and 
grand view from top of quiescent volcano of 
Epomeo, Ischia has been ravaged by Romans, 
Saracens. Pisans, Neapolitans, and French; and 
was the home of Vittoria Colonna and Maria 
of Aragon. Boat from Naples in 2 hrs. Procida 
is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, 
with 14.000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri 
and Ischia, by Greeks. 

Salerno (Hotel d'Arigleterre) is a picturesque 
old provincial capital (27,000 inhab), 33^ M. 
from Naples, fronting on a magnificent bay, 
with fine quay, lA M. long; irregular mediaeval 
streets, ancient Lombard Castle, and delight- 
fully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many 
antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and 
tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, 
Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was 
very celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfel- 
low's Golden Legend). 

Pesto, or Psestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by rail- 
way over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, 
B. c. 600. and destroyed by Saracens, is a collec- 
tion of the finest Greek ruins in existence (out 
of Athens), including Temple of Neptune, 189 
by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns; Temple 
of Ceres. 105 by 45 ft., with 34 fluted columns; 
and Basilica, 111 by 80 ft, with 60 columns; 
well-preserved travertine town walls 3 M. 



ITALY. Amalfi. 439 

around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, Street 
of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., 
Sun. free. 

Amalfi (Cappuccini; Luna; Santa Caterina), 
a lovely village (7,000 inhab.), where a great 
mt.-gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, was once 
a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling G-e- 
noa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of 
Naples in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 
11th-century Cathedral, with campanile and 
cloisters, rich mosaics and Byzantine bronze 
doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. A landslide 
in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient Ca- 
pucin monastery and two hotels. A climb of 
an hour and a half leads to Ravello {Belvedere; 
del Toro), with magnificent 11th-century ca- 
thedral and Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian 
IV. and Robert the Wise lived), both in rich 
Saracenic architecture, and other notable chs. 
Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, by boat 
and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from 
Salerno by carriage over one of the noblest 
roads in the world, through 6 villages, amid 
vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by 
Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers. 

Majori {Beau Site Hotel; Torre), near Amalfi, 
is a charming spot. 

Sicily. 
This beautiful island may be conveniently 
visited from Naples, whence steamships run, 
several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina, 
passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. 
Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 
26 hrs. (436 M.) rly. ride from Naples through 
Salerno; Eholi; Gosenza; (Alaric's grave), 



440 ITALY. Messina. 

with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo; lofty Monteleone, 
with 10,000 inhab.; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. 
are seen; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons 
were killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near 
Homer's Scylla) ; to Reggio, once a beautiful 
city of 35,000 souls, but totally destroyed, with 
the loss of 20,000 of its inhabitants, in the earth- 
quake of December 28, 1908. 

French steamers run from Marseilles to Pa- 
lermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to 
Palermo in 33 hrs. Steamers run round Si- 
cily weekly, from Palermo, touching at chief 
ports. 

Messina, formerly the chief commercial town 
of Sicily, with 150,000 inhab. had a magnificent 
situation on an amphitheatrical slope, over a . 
secure and well-fortified harbor. It was founded 
by the Greeks, b. c. 732; conquered by Samos, 
Athens (b. c. 427), Carthage (396 and 270), 
Mamertines, Rome, Saracens, Normans, English 
(Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French, and Ital- 
ians; often ravagea by fire, plague, and earth- 
quake. These evil days had left it but few an- 
tiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26 
antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs, and sar- 
cophagi; and in front was the splendid Montor- 
soli Fountain (1647-51). In the early morning 
of Dec. 28, 1908, Messina was again visited by 
an earthquake, the severest in its long history of 
disasters, which threw down or ruined nearly 
every building in the city, killing, according to 
the most trustworthy estimates, 100,000 persons, 
or two-thirds of the entire population. The 
towns on both sides of the Strait of Messina, 
estimated to number at least 60, were at the 
same time more or less completely destroyed 



ITALY. Catania. 441 

within a space of twelve seconds, 165,000 per- 
sons being killed. 

Ry. hence to Giardini which is the station for 
Toarmina; {International; CasteUo a Mare; 
Timeo), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre 
(whence famous view), acropolis and castle, 
and ducal palace; across lava fields of Mtna.. 
Aci Reale and Aci CasteUo on the way to Cata- 
nia are the scene of the adventures of Polyphe- 
mus, Acis, and Galatea, sung by Theocritus. 

Catania (Bretagne; Bristol; Centrale; Euro- 
pa), handsomest and most cultured city in Si- 
cily (147,000 inhab.), by the seaside, at foot of 
.^tna. and rich in palaces and villas, embow- 
ered in groves of orange. It was founded by 
Greeks, b. c. 730; and conquered by Athens, 
Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Sara- 
cens, Germans, and Spaniards, See Cathedral 
(1091) w^ith tombs of six Aragonese sover- 
eigns, and of St. Agatha; S. Carcere, with 
relics; cloisters and gardens, museum, library 
of suppressed Benedictine Monastery of S. 
NicoJa, than which there was but one more 
splendid in the world (all its monks were 
of noble blood) ; underground remains of 
Roman Theatre and OdeuTu (fee 2 1.); Roman 
Baths and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tomlts; Uni- 
versity (1444), 500 students; and public gar- 
dens of Villa Bellini, with Italian statues. 
There is a monument to Bellini in the Piazza 
Stesicoro. 

Mount iEtna (10,742 ft. high) may be ascend- 
ed hence, by carriage (2* hrs.), to Nicolosi 
(20-25 1. there and back); whence 8 hrs. by 
lodge of Casa Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1.; 
mule, 81.); return from top to Catania, 8_9 hrs. 



442 ITALY. Syracuse. 

It is best to sleep at Casa Inglese (at base of 
cone of crater), and reacb summit before sun- 
rise. Tbere bave been over 80 recorded erup- 
tions, one of wbicb (1693) destroyed 80,000 
lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view in- 
cludes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calab- 
ria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania 
(54 M. to 

Syracuse, once the most important city in 
the Greek world, now a quiet modern port (31,- 
000 inhab.), with very charming environs, a 
noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and 
beautiful women who wear picturesque cos- 
tumes. It was founded by Corinthians, b. c. 
734; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans; 
repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army 
(B.C. 414-13), with terrible losses; beat off fre- 
quent attacks from Carthage; entertained ^^s- 
chylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc.; and was defen- 
ded by Archimides against the Romans (b. c. 
214-12) , but fell and was very nearly annihilated. 
Paul and Marcian preached here. It has since 
been ravaged by Franks, Bj^zantines, Normans, 
and Spaniards; and has never recovered from 
the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabi- 
tants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- 
dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with re- 
markable font and leading pillars; Museum 
(open 9-3, 11., Sun. free) with fine Greek Ve- 
nus, and other antiquities, and Palazzo Bellomo; 
Fountain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mytho- 
logy, and still surrounded by papyrus plants; 
ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle; and Montalto 
Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty re- 
mains of ancient Syracuse: Amphitheatre; La- 
tomiw, or quarries, once worked by slaves; 



ITALY. Palermo. 443 

grotto called Ear of Dionysius; Greek Theatre 
(480-406 B.C.); Fountain of Gyane, amid grow- 
ing papyri; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olym- 
pius; etc. 

Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs. 

Palermo {Savoy; Villa Igiea; Excelsior Pa- 
lace; Milano; Centrale), the capital of Sicily 
(315,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated be- 
tween Mt. Pellegrino and Cape Zaffaranta, fa- 
cing the sea, and has mild winters and intt'iise- 
ly hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, 
strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, 
captured by Rome, and governed in succession 
by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, 
French, and English. On the beautiful Marina 
and La Flora promenades the Sicilian people 
of fashion congregate. The Quattro Canti, a 
small square, contains many statues and co- 
lumns. The Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and 
imposing ch., wdth tombs of the Sicilian 
k^"ngs, and of Emperor Frederick 11. ; immense 
silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Ro- 
salina; many statues and carved choir stalls; 
and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. 
La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious 
old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a 
tall campanile. See also /S. Cataldo (1161), a 
Sicilian-Norman ch.; S. Giovanni degli Fremiti, 
in form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters; 
gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' cli.; Norman S. 
Francesco d' Assisi; and >S. Domenico (1640), 
which can hold 12,000 persons. The Museum 
open 10-3; 11. Sun. free) contains many Sici- 
lian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian 
antiquities, and a picture-gallery, mainly com- 
posed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The 



444 ITALY. Monreale. 

Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apart- 
ments added by King Roger. Robert Guiscard, 
Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also 
is magnificent Cappella Palatina (1132), the 
finest castle-chapel in the world, a basilica with 
Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, 
mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscrip- 
tions. Superb view from Observatory. The 
great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) 
are covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows 
of Archiepiscopal Palace; large Municipal Pa- 
lace; University; National Library (open 9-2); 
spacious and arcaded Paterno Palace; Palace of 
the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the m- 
q\xi^it\OTi ',Ganzia Monastery; rich Botariical 
Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch for 
Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at 
Tunis. 

Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond the palace of the 
Due d'Aumale, the elegant old Saracenic palace 
of Cubola, the CapucJwi Monastery, where Paler- 
mitan patricians are kept embalmed, and rich, 
gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town which 
has risen around the Cathedral, founded by Wil- 
liam II. in 1170. This is 333 x 132 ft. in area, 
with superb entrance; bronze doors (1186); 
Saracenic arches; cloisters supported on 216 
columns; and over 60,000 square ft. of magni- 
ficent mosaics, scriptural and historical. Mon- 
reale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands 
famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is ven- 
erable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, 
with library, museum, and views. The celebrat- 
ed Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. 
See shrine and grotto of St. Rosalia, and im- 
mense sea-view. La Favorita is a splendid royal 



ITALY. GiRGENTi. 445 

villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. 
Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, a large 
suppressed monastery, with favorite view of 
Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and cha- 
teaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the 
environs. 

From Palermo it is 96 M, by rly. to 

Girgenti {des Temples; Hotel Belvedere), 
chief town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). 
On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas (Agri- 
gentum), which Pindar called "the most beau- 
tiful city of mortals." It was founded by Cre- 
tans; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth; was 
destroyed by Carthage, and became a Roman 
colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of 
Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), Hercules 
(38 columns). Concord (34 columns), Zeus 
(37 huge columns), and others, and walls, 
gates, cloacae, catacombs, tombs, etc., in great 
numbers. 

Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Monaco. 

Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had 
best return N. by sea. Steamships leave Naples 
twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Ge- 
noa, and Marseilles. 

Civita Vecchia {Trajano; Italia) is the forti- 
fied sea port of Rome (12,000 inhab.) founded 
by Trajan, and destroyed by Saracens (in 828). 
Fortress built after plans by Michael Angelo. 
Rly across Maremma to Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 
504 M., in 2 hrs. Time of voyage from Naples, 
12^14 hrs. • 

A voyage of 12 hrs., leads hence to Leghorn 
[Hdtel d'Angleterre; Campari: Giappone; Pal- 
ace), one of the chief Mediterranean ports 
(100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built and mod- 



440 ITALY. Pisa. 

em. It was founded by the Medici family, as 
a refuge for the oppressed. See English Cemetery, 
with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of three 
Tuscan Grand Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on 
Monte Nero; piers and quays, with busy and 
chattering crowds, and handsome squares and 
Corso. 

Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. 

Pisa {Hotel Vittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel 
Minerve et Villa; G-rand Hotel de Londres) 
is a quiet and beautiful town (30,000 inhab.) 
near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from 
Florence. It was conquered by Rome, b. c. 180; 
adorned with temples by Augustus and Had- 
rian: became a rival of Venice and Genoa in 
Middle Ages; defeated the Saracens in many 
naval battles; became anti-Papal, and was de- 
feated by Genoa; and in 1406 became subject 
to Florence, It is very hot in summer, but the 
mildness of its winters attracts many Northern 
visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It 
is surrounded by picturesque walls; and has 3 
bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and 
near which you may see, on N. side, many pal- 
aces and chs., including 13th-century S. Michele; 
University (1493), with Renaissance court 
(statue of Galileo) and valuable library; Alia, 
Giornata. Vitelli and Royal Palaces; 8. Nicolo 
(1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- 
dinand I. in front; and Guelphic fortress, near 
Ponte a Mare. On S. side, 12th-century 8. Paolo, 
with handsome old fa(;ade; Benedictine monas- 
tery; Gambacorti Palace, now custom-house; 
S. Maria della Spina (1230), a beautiful marble 
Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of 
Thorns; round S. Sepolcro; and the Fortress. 



ITALY. Pisa. 447 

Back from the river, on N. see S. Francesco 
(1300), with campanile; Botanical Garden and 
Natural-History Museum; S. Sisto (1089); and 
Piazza dei Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. 
Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri. with statues, 
and S. Stefano (1565), ch. of Knights of St. 
Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable 
paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Pa- 
lazzo Lanfranclii. S. Caterina (1253) has in- 
teresting pictures, and stands in a pleasant 
square, near the old Roman baths and the Lucca 
Gate. 

In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a won- 
derful group of mediaeval buildings, nearly sur- 
rounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 
311x106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, 
was founded in 1063, ''to commemorate defeat of 
Moslems at Palermo, and consecrated by Pope 
Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan- 
Gothic architecture, of white and colored 
marbles, with remarkable fa(;ade of columns and 
arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cima- 
bue's mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns 
(trophies of Pisan conquests), a splendidly gild- 
ed ceiling, bronze doors designed by John 
of Bologna, 12 altars designed by Michael 
Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccoio Pisano, altars 
enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare 
pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which 
Galileo got the idea of the pendulum. 

In front is the finest Baptistry in the world. 
It is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. 
high); in Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Go- 
thic styles; of marble; and surrounded with an- 
cient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7 



448 ITALY. LuccA. 

columns, with 6 reliefs by Niccolo Pisano, and 
handsome font. 

The leaning Tower (1174_1350), or Campanile, 
behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, 
surrounded by colonnades, and containing 7 
bells. It is 14 ft. out of the perpendicular. 
Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the 
coast, Elba, and Corsica; adm. 30c. 

The Campo Santo (open daily; 11.) is an en- 
closure filled with scores of shiploads ol 
sacred earth from Mt. Calvary, and consecrated 
to the burial of great men. The cloistered hall 
which surrounds it was built 1278-83, by John 
of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145 ft. broad, 
with 62 beautiful windows opening on the ver- 
dant court within. The walls are decorated with 
wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos of 
early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, 
some of which are attributed to Giotto and Or- 
cagna. There are many splendid monuments in 
these corridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Greg- 
ory XIII., Catalan!, etc.; and sculptures by 
Mino da Plesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Rob- 
bia, Dupre, and Thorwaldsen. 

Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of 
Baths of Gomho, near which Shelley was 
drowned. To Certosa, a Carthusian monas- 
tery, 6 M. out, on the Sisan Mts. To Basilica 
of 8. Pietro in Grado (a. d. lOOO), 3 M. out, 
where St. Peter landed in Italy. 

Lucca {Universo; Corona; Croce di Malta), 
a beautiful old walled city (45,000 inhab.), 
on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A 
splendid Roman municipium. it afterwards be- 
came Gothic, Lombard, Prankish, ducal, re- 
publican, P''san and Tuscan; and was home of 



ITALY. Genoa. 449 

Dante, and principality of Napoleon's sister. 
See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060- 
70), very rich in art; Tth-century Basilica of 
S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare 
old pictures; chs. of 8. Giovanni, 8. Romano, 8. 
Francesco, and 8. Michele, and old palaces; and 
walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of 
Lucca (Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; New 
York; Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 6 M. N. 
among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sul- 
phureted ferruginous springs. This has been a 
famous health resort for centuries. 

Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102i M. Sea-passage, 
Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between 
Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beau- 
tiful town of 23,000 inhab. (mostly sculptors 
and majrble-workers), embowered in groves of 
chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 
2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 
men are employed. La Specia (Croce di Malta; 
Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly 
fortified and well equipped (66,000 inhab.) and 
was commended by Strabo as one of the vastest 
and best ports in the world. Many visitors come 
in summer for the sea-baths; and in winter, for 
the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Porto Venere 
(li hrs.). The rly. goes on, by 8est'ri Levante 
and Lavagna, along shore of Mediterranean, with 
charming views, and through many tunnels. 

Genoa (Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Con- 
tinental; De Londres; Metropole), called by 
its citizens La Superba, has 211,000 inhab., and 
is Italy's chief commercial town. It was found- 
ed by Ligurians; became Roman; enriched it- 
self in Crusades; conquered great Levantine 
domains; fought many wars with Venice, Pisa, 



450 ITALY. Genoa. 

and the Moslems; was torn for centuries by 
Guelph-Ghibelline c^vil wars; maintained itself 
as a republic from 10th century to 19th; was 
annexed to France "'n 1800; and in 1816 became 
Sardinian. It has more imposing marble pal- 
aces than any other city; but the stii|ets are 
narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast 
hemicycle of buildings, ranged along the hills 
like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold wooded 
heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the 
city; and an outer line 20 M. long, with towers 
and intrenchments traverses the hills beyond. 
The Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with 
light-houses; and separated from the town by 
a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and 
sailors take their ease. At end near the chief 
hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft. long 
and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasent view of har- 
bor. Near by is a handsome 16th-century 
Exchange with statue of Cavour. The Custora 
House contains many statues of Genoese worth- 
ies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, 
and Riviera from dome of 8. Maria di Carig- 
nano, on high hill to S. E. 

The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands 
of black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian 
columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, 
many statues, and the Holy Grail. Near by, on 
Piazza Niiova. see white-marble town-hall, with 
statues (once Ducal Palace); and 16th-century 
Jesuit's ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pictures by 
Guido and Rubens. Near by are <Sf. Matteo 
(1278). with many sculptures and inscriptions 
of Doria family; Academy of Fine Arts, with 
pictures and statuary; 12th-century Gothic ch. 
of S. Stefano, with famous picture by Giulio 



ITALY. Genoa. 451 

Romano; and Pallavicini and Spinola Palaces 
The modern Via BalM and Yia Nuova are streets 
of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful 
courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th- 
century Municipio, with mosaic portraits of 
Columbus and Marco Polo (and letters of for- 
mer) in council hall; Brignole-Sale (Palazzo 
Rossa) with 8 rooms full of old paintings; Pa- 
lazzo Bianco, with Junctum, sculptures and me- 
morials of Columbus; Adorno (1500), with 
valuable pictures. Most of the Genoese palaces 
were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil 
of Michael Angelo. The cruciform Capuchin ch. 
of S. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red- 
marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. 
Hence the Yia BalM, a broad modern street of 
palaces, leads to rly. stat., passing handsome old 
Palazzo Durazzo; University (1622) with mu- 
seums, library (60,000 vols.), and ' the finest 
courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Palazzo Balbi, 
with handsome interior and court: and Royal 
Palace (open daily), with richly furnished 
halls, throne-room, and many pictures. In 
square by rly. stat., see fine monument to 
Columbus (1862), with several allegorical stat- 
ues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Doria 
Princes, presented to Andrea Doria, "The 
Father of his Country," in 1522, with splendid 
frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and statues 

Excursions from Genoa.— Villa Pallavicini 
(open 10-3 p.m.; fee 1-2 1.), with luxuriant 
park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos 
kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat., 7^ Al •' 
I hr. by rly.). Campo Santo, 1* M. out, new and 
interesting. 

The famous Corniche road leads along the 



452 ITALY. Savona. — San Remo. 

Rivera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128^ 
M.) through some of the finest coast and hill 
scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa 
to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly every day. 

Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M.). 
The journey should be by day, as the route fol- 
lows the Mediterranean coast through a succes- 
sion of beautiful and historic towns and vil- 
lages. Take seat on r. as far as Savona; beyond 
which the best views are on the 1. The line tra- 
verses many tunnels, through rocky promon- 
tories. 

Savona (Pension Suisse) is an ancient city 
(30,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused 
to be filled up, after conquering the town. Six- 
tus IV. and Julius II. were born here. See 
Cathedral (1604); S. Domenico, with triptych 
by Diirer; colossal statue of Virgin on tower by 
harbor. Rly. hence to Turin. 

San Remo (Royal; West-End; Midi; Paradis; 
Savoy; d'Europe; Bellevue; Mediterranee; Vic- 
toria; Central; de Nice), town of 20,000 inhab., 
on hill-slopes covered with vineyards and groves 
of orange, lemon, olive, pomegranate and palm 
trees. The climate is very mild, and attracts 
many English, American, German and Russian 
families in winter. The town is a densely popu- 
lated group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, 
with picturesque labyrinths of deep and narrow 
lanes. See very ancient Cathedral; lovely view 
from Assumption ch.; ruined Borea Palace; and 
hermitage of S. Romolo. 

Bordighera (Royal; Angst; du Cap Ampeglio ; 
Belvedere; Hesperia — usually closed in sum- 
mer) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- 
trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque 



ITALY. BOEDIGHERA. 453 

streets and houses. It was once the capital of a 
republic. Ruffini laid the scene of his Dr. An- 
tonio hereabouts. Climate is exceptionally soft 
in winter, with bracing quality, and is delight- 
ful in spring and fall. Many Americans come 
here. See Villa of Garnier, architect of Paris 
Opera-House; and palm-garden of Moreno. Vin- 
timiglia {Maison Doree; Suisse) is the frontier- 
town, where baggage is examined and travelers 
change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put 
back on train. 



454 FRANCE. Mentone.-Monte Carlo. 



SOUTHERN FRANCE. 

AJ-ENTONE {Royal; Westminster: des Cole 
^^^ mes; Balmoral; National; cle Malte Tu 
rm: Isles Britanniques; <r Orient; clTussie du 
Louvre; Winter Palace; Cap Martin Alex an- 
dra; Beau Rivage; Santa Maria; Siiste des 
Deux Mondes; the two last named are open the 

T^ZIf' '^^ ^^^^^'^ ^^^ ^l««^d in summer) 
The old town keeps its feudal aspect with nar 

trouS,:r'B?au"t^,'T''P'^ "'"^ '™^ "^ ^ronciial 
irouDies. Beautiful excursions in vicinity Cor- 
mche road hence to Nice (18 J M • 3 4 hrs ) 
through most exquisite coast scenerV ' 

• r. S''^'^*"'''' ^Riviera Palace: 'uHronnJp- 

ch.ef ,r ,'" ""; P"°"PaIity of Monaco, the 
chief attraction of which is its gaming esfah 
lishment, located in the Casino HeTfre Ifso 
a concert hall, theatre, and magnificent garden, 
^e^h^r-^tonS^. "' '^^'''°"^^'- ^^rTSZ'T. 

principality, under French protection, stands on 



FRANCE. Nice. 455 

a bold rock nearly surrounded by the sea. The 
ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily, 2-5 
p. M., small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good 
frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, 
and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild 
winter climate, and sea bathing in summer. Be- 
tween Monaco and Nice is Villafranca, winter 
headquarters of American navy in European 
waters. 

Nice {Grand Hotel des lies Britanniques ; 
Metropole; Albion: de Nice; des Anglais; 
Grande Bretagne; Riviera Palace; Winter Pal- 
ace; Excelsior; Alhamttra; Terminus; Deux 
Maudes; the last two are open in summer, all 
or most of the others are then closed), a hand- 
some and well built city (135,000 inhab.), with 
an Italian aspect, is the chief of the fashionable 
winter-resorts on the Mediterranean coast, and 
has an extremely soft and agreeable climate, 
and lovely environs. England and Germany, 
Russia and America, send many invalids here. 
The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull 
summers. It was originally a Greek colony; 
then Provencal, Savoyard, Sardinian, and 
French. Massena was born in house No. 21 
Quai St. Jean Baptiste; Garibaldi, at No. 4 Rue 
Cassini. Pagnanini died at No. 14 Rue de la 
Prefecture; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. 
The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais ex- 
tends along the bay for 1* M., bordered by beau- 
tiful villas and public establishments. See Place 
Massena, with bronze statue of Massena; Jardin 
Publique, with palm groves and good band- 
music; Place des PJiociens, and antique Greek 
fountain; remains of Castle, on hill of palm and 
orange groves, with magnificent view over sea 



456 FRANCE. Cannes. 

and mts.; old and new Hdtels de Ville; Palace 
of Prefecture; ancient Lascaris Palace; Natural- 
History Museum; Public Library; and Marble 
Gross. Many charming excursions to Villa- 
franca, Montboron, Chateau Neuf, St. Pons, 
Cimies^ etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of who-m 
speak English). It is 6 hrs. hence, by express, 
to Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are 
now in operation on the coast in the neighbor- 
hood of Nice and Monte Carlo. 

Cannes (Hotel Splendide; Bellevue; des Pal- 
miers; Bristol; Continental; du Pare; Gallia; 
Beau 8c jour) is one of the most popular and 
attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, shel- 
tered from the winds, and frequented by people 
whose lungs are delicate. The English and Rus- 
sians monopolize it, and the latter have many 
handsome villas in vicinity. Magnificent sea 
views, including the lies de Lerins, where, on 
He S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron Mask 
was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine 
escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat. ruins of one 
of the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near 
Cannes is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast 
town, surrounded by walls and defended by a 
fort; and Golfe Jouan, where Napoleon landed 
from Elba. 

The Marseilles rly. goes on to Frejus, with 
ruins of Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded 
Gate, and aqueduct (25 M. long). From La Pau- 
line Stat, branch rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health 
resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets 
off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon {Grand 
Hotel; du Nord; Victoria; de la Paix) is the 
chief French naval station (100,000 inhab.) on 
the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor, 



FRANCE. Marseilles. 457 

sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended in 1707; 
but Bonaparte wrested it from an English gar- 
rison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; 
Maritime Museum; Puget's statue of Renown; 
prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot 
of prisoners sentenced to transportation; Hotel 
de Ville, with sculptures, and in front a statue 
of Genius of Navigation; ancient Cathedral, 
with sculptures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, 
and noble view from Batterie du Salut. It is 
41^ M. hence to 

Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles; de Bordeaux; 
du Louvre et de la Paix; Terminus) , the fore- 
most maritime city (503,000 inhab.) of France, 
w'hich has a long and narrow inner harbor, with 
large modern docks outside. It was founded by 
Greeks or Phoenicians, b. c. 600, under the name 
of Massilia; defeated the Carthaginians; estab- 
lished many, colonies along the coast; was con- 
que^-ed by Caesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, 
and Spaniards; and in 1481 was annexed to 
France. Here were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, 
and Mery. The Marseilles call their La Canne- 
biere and the Rue Noailles, the finest streets in 
the world. This line of streets runs N.W. from 
ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with 
the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, 
with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian 
(Greek) navigators; the Place Roy ale ; across 
the shady Cours de VAthenee (statue of intrepid 
Bishop Belsunce), which leads to TriumpJial 
Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, 
and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, which 
runs under various names 2^ M. to the N. E.; 
and out to Zoological Garden, near which is the 
handsome Palais de Longchamps (open 10-4), 



458 FRANCE. Arles. 

where an Ionic colonnade joins the Natural- 
History Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., 2-4) 
to the Musee des Beaux-Arts (open daily ex. 
Mon. and Fri., 9-12, 2-4). 

See immense Docks; Canal, which cost $12,- 
000,000; Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep 
and far-viewing hill; splendid new Byzantine 
Cathedral, old Cathedral, on ruins of Temple of 
Diana; palatial Hotel de la Prefecture; Palais 
de Justice; Transporter Bridge. 

In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road, the 
Prado, and Chateau Borely. The Chateau D'lf, 
built by Francis I. on an island in the harbor, 
was made famous by Dumas's Monte Crista. 

Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery 
Freres, Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make 
Marseilles their chief port, and run to Messina, 
Athens, Constantinople, to Syra, Smyrna, Con- 
stantinople, Odessa, — returning by Athens and 
Naples; to Salonica; to Naples and Alexandria; 
to Port Said, Jaffa, Bey rout, and Syrian Coast; 
to Trebizond; to Madras and Calcutta; to Suez, 
Aden, Singapore, Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yoko- 
hama (fortnightly) ; to Algiers; to Barcelona; 
to Nice. Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Yecchia. Naples, 
and New York. 

From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter 
Spain by way of Barcelona (see page 405). 
Aries, Nimes. Avignon, and Lyons. 

The route leads through vineyards and olive- 
groves, among which are ancient villages, to 
Aries {Grand Hotel du Forum; du Xord-Pi7ius) , 
a venerable Roman town (26,000 inhab.) near 
the Camargue. or delta of the Rhone. The 
Roman Amphitheatre (b. c. 43) is 1,500 ft. 
around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine 



FRANCE. NiMES. 459 

arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been 
a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Franks, 
some of whose towers are still standing. The 
remains of the Roman Theatre are very inter- 
esting. See also famous Roman cemetery of 
Champs Ely sees (mentioned by Dante) ; col- 
umns in Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and 
of Constantine's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Al- 
pine granite, set up here in 1676; Museum (in 
old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues and an- 
tiquities; 7th-century Cathedral, with fine por- 
tal and interesting cloisters; viaduct with 32 
arches; and (2^ M. N. E.) imposing ruins of 
fortress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. 
The women of Aries are celebrated for beauty. 
Nimes (Hotel du Luxembourg : du Midi; 
Ma7iiuet), the birthplace of Guizct and Nicot 
(whence nicotine), has 80,000 inhab. It was 
once a sacred spot in a Druidical forest : con- 
quered by Rome, b. c. 121; and at time of Refor- 
mation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other 
French town has such noble Roman remains. 
The well-preserved Amphitheatre (b. c. 140) has 
35 rows of seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. 
around and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress 
by Visigoths and Saracens; and afterwards con- 
tained a large village. The Maison Carree is a 
Roman temple, 88 x 42 ft. in area, with 30 ex- 
quisite Corinthian columns. Founded probably 
by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch. 
and then a town-hall, and is now a Museum. 
with antique mosaics and sculptures, and sev- 
eral score of modern paintings. The Capitol 
at Richmond, Va., was modelled on plan of Mai- 
son Carree. See also ancient Temple of Diana 
(or Nymphaeum), and Roman Baths, below 



460 FRANCE. Tarascon. — Avignon. 

the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount 
Cavalier, adorned with promenades; 2 of the 
Roman town-gates; Fountain; and Boulevards. 

Tarascon {Hotel des Empereurs; du Petit 
Louvre), the city of the troubadours, and of 
King Rene of Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has not- 
able Castle, Ch. of 8. Marthe, Chapel of 8. Ga- 
briel, and Rue des Arcades. 

Avignon {Hotel de V Europe ; du Luxembourg) 
is a handsome city (38,000 inhab.) on the 
Rhone, with. an imposing and well-preserved wall 
(1349-68) of hugh masonry, and many gates. 
On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, stands 
the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 
popes; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison- 
tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs 
have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), 
a hugh and fortress-like pile, 100 ft. high, with 
frowning towers and a chapel frescoed by Mem- 
mi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, etc. Splen- 
did view of Rhone and city from adjacent pub- 
lic gardens. The golden age of Avignon was 
during 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with 
all the Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a 
guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in 
its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the 
Grande Place, with handsome Theatre and Ho- 
tel de Ville. See also Calvet Museum (1 fr.), 
with Roman antiquities, library, and picture- 
gallery; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain; 
Monument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century 
Hotel Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. 

Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to V Ile-sur- 
Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the 
fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont 
du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest 



FRANCE. Lyojs-s. 461 

Roman works in existence. It is an aqueduct 
of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Val- 
ley, built probably by Agrippa. 

Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange 
{Hotel de la Paste et des Princes), a Roman Col- 
ony, and afterwards capital of principality 
(until 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,- 
000 sittings) and Triuinphal Arch. Near Piei'- 
relatte are many Roman remains. Montelimart 
has famous mineral springs. Livron is famous 
for its defence by the Huguenots against 
Henri III. in 1574. Valence (Hotel de la Croix 
d' Or) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), 
with Roman ruins; Cathedral with tomb of 
Pius IV.; Museum; and Maison des Tetes. 
Vienna (Hotel du Nord; de la Poste) , "a little 
French Manchester" (25,000 inhab.), on the 
Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus, with 
16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of 
S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral, etc. 

).yons (Grand Hotel; Xouvel Hotel; de 
riiurope: Terminus) , the second city and chief 
manufacturing place of France (450,000 inhab.), 
is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and 
is of vast importance, commercially and strate- 
gically. The Perrache is the quarter between 
and reclaimed from the 2 rivers; and containing 
handsome rly. stat.. Arsenal, Barracks, Custom 
House, and Ch. of St. Blandine. See 13th-cen- 
tury Cathedral, with fagade by Philibert De- 
lorme; and noble tower; Museum (open 9-11, 
1-4), with Roman antiquities and statues, 
library, and large picture-gallery (see Peru- 
gino's Ascension) ; Grand Theatre; noble view 
from pilgrimage-ch. of Notre Dame de Four- 
viere, on heights; Hdtel de Ville (1647), near 



462 FRANCE. Besancon. 

scene of massacre of 1794; Civic Library, 180,- 
000 vols.; Palace of Commerce, with industrial 
museum; Hotel Dieu; great tobacco factories; 
new Bellecour Theatre; 10th-century ch. of Ab- 
bey of Ainay, on site of Caligula's school of rhe- 
toric; handsome TSte d'Or park; Ch. of S. Jean, 
of 12th century; and Place Bellecour. There are 
16 bridges over the rivers; and the adjecent 
heights are covered with great forts. 

Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4^ hrs., and to 
Besan(;on Besangon (Hotel de Paris) is one of 
the strongest fortresses in France (48,000 
inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal 
Palace, Granvelle Palace (1834), Roman Arch, 
and Library (120,000 vols). 

Express trains, Lyons to Paris 9-10 hrs., 
by Macon, Chalons-sur-Sa6ne„ Dijon, etc. 

Montpellier, Cette, and Perpignon, see pages 
404. Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 494. 

Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angou- 
Idme, Poitiers, Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 
498, etc. 



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SPAIN. RouxD Teip. 463 



A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN. 

The tourist who can give ten days for a visit 
to the most important po'nts in Spain will 
never have occasion to regret it. He will find 
it among the most interesting and instructive 
of his journeys in Europe. From Marseilles 
we recommend you to go directly to Barcelona, 
from there to Valencia, and thence via La 
Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this 
point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, 
from Cordova to Grenada, from Grenada to 
Malaga, all this by rail: then from Malaga by 
steamer to Gibraltar; from Gibraltar to Cadiz, 
from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Al- 
cazar de San Juan: from thence to Madrid, 
taking on the way the ancient city of Toledo; 
and from Madrid N. to France by Avila, Val- 
ladolid, Burgos, and Irun; thence to Bordeaux 
and Paris. That does not include several points 
of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, 
AMcante, Salamanca, etc.; but it gives a capi- 
tal iaea of the chief beauties o^ Spain. Even 
to those who feel that they cannot spend the 
time to go S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and 
Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the 
route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., be- 
ing satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot 
see the whole. 

Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass 



464 SPAIN. . Barcelona. 

througli Montpellier (Riche; Metropole; Grand; 
du Midi). Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 
by Urban V.; a school of medicine with fine 
entrance flanked with a colossal bronze statue 
representing Barthez and La Peyronnic; a lib- 
rary of 50,000 vols., a good museum (open 
daily except Mon., 9-12, 1.30-4; Sun., 11-4) ; and 
many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and 
promenades (see especially the Peyroyi). Cette, 
one of the most industrious and dirtiest cities of 
Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, 
for its museum of natural history, and its bo- 
tanical garden, Narbonjie, and Perpignan 
{Grand Hotel) an old French town with a 
Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached 
at Cerbcre, in the midst of a wildly beautiful 
country; baggage inspection not severe. The 
only point of special importance through which 
you pass on your way to Barcelna is 

Gerona {Fonda Italiana) , a large town di- 
vided into two sections, upper and lower, by 
the river Oiia. Noble view here of the Pyrenees 
and the distant mountains. The porch of the 
Cathedral is reached by a monumental stair- 
case of 86 steps. The interior forms one single 
nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense 
pillars, formed of little columns almost detached 
from each other. Many interesting tombs here. 
The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. 
The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Churches of 
San Pedro de los Galligans and San Feliu are 
worth seeing. The Capucin Convent contains 
fi small Arabic monument of wonderfully intri- 
cate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to 

Barcelona (Gran Hotel; Colon; Inglaterra; 
Falcon; del Oriente; Continental; Cuatro Na- 



SPAIN. Bakcelona. 465 

Clones), one of the most enterprising as well 
as one of the most beautiful cities (500,000 
inhab.) in Southern Europe. It is the residence 
of a Captain General of the civil governor of 
the province of Catalonia. The climate is tem- 
perate both in summer and w'nter. The new 
part of the city, notably in the Gracia quarter,, 
will remind Americans of the more beautiful 
sections of Boston and of Washington. The 
Ramdla is the principal promenade of the city,, 
and at noon and m the evening is thronged with 
all classes of the population. It runs from the 
Plaza de la Paz {Columhus Monument) to the 
Plaza de Cataluna, and from here stretches out. 
the beautiful Gracia avenue, which unites the 
city to a suburb of the same name. The Uni- 
versity with its library of 150,000 volumes is on. 
the Plaza de la Universidad, a short distance 
N. W. from the Cataluna Plaza. Among other 
squares are the Real, with interesting shops ; the 
Medina Cell, with statue of Marquet; del Rey^ 
with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the 
Archives; de la Constitucion, with the Casa Con- 
sistorial and the Casa de la Diputacion; de Pal- 
acio, with fine marble fountain. From the latter 
a short avenue leads to the Parque de la Ciiida- 
dela, in which are the Palace, the Pantheon, 
and an unimportant Museo de Reproducciones. 
The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the- 
world, is built after the model of La Scala, at 
Milan. The Lonja, or Exchange, is of monu- 
mental aspect. The Casa de la Diputacion, on 
the palace of the Constitution, was built in the 
l&th-century ; fine portal. On the side fronting 
, on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade 
of the chapel of St. George, Gothic in style. 



466 SPAIN. Barcelona. 

The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paint- 
ings; among others a number of the best works 
of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Gonsistorial, 
a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or court- 
yard, is much admired. The Custom House, 
Casa Aduana. is near the old royal palace. The 
Archives of the Crown of Aragon in the Plaza 
del Rey is a superb historical collection dating 
back for ten centuries. The Cathedral dates 
from the first centuries of the Church. It is 
dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first building was 
erected by Raymond Berenguer I. in 1058, but 
only part of that remains. The interior has 
three vast naves, ogival in style. The chief 
altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- 
tured columns: at the top is a Christ upon the 
Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel 
in which are said to repose the remains of S. 
Eulalia: beautiful stained glass windows here. 
The side door on the r. leads into the cloister, 
which is marvellously decorated in the style 
of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the 
doors of the chapels: also the tomb of the dwarf 
buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There 
are numerous other chs, of interest. Among the 
most striking is 8. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic 
edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some 
good paintings by Villodomat, some by the Ca- 
racci, and works of Ribers and other masters. 
The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of Santa 
Agneda, is interesting. The Museo Estruch con- 
tains an interesting collection of weapons. On 
an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, '. 
which can contain a garrison of about 10,000. 
Barcelonetta is a little suburb chiefly inhabited 
by fishermen and workmen in the marine es- 



SPAIN. The Balearic Islands. 467 

tablishments. Gracia 's a favorite residence of 
the wealthier people of Barcelona. 

An excursion should be made to the Immense 
rocky mass of Monserrat, which rises in the 
midst of the Caialonian plain, to the height of 
about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a 
distance of 31 M. from Barcelona. It may be 
reached from the stat. of Martorell, on the Tar- 
ragona line, or much more easily from Mo- 
nistrol, on the Saragossa ry., from which a car- 
riage rd. and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery 
on summit of the mt. Of the old monastery 
founded in 880 nothing is left but a few walls 
and one or two towers in Byzantine style, 
dating from the 15th century. The present mon- 
astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 
stories high, without special character. The ch. 
is beautified with a portico, rich with statues 
and columns. The renown of the \irgin of 
Monserrat is too well known to need mention 
here. From the top of the mt. there is a 
splendid view of immense extent over the hills 
of Aragon, the Pj^renees, the Mediterranean 
shore, and in very clear weather as far as the 
Balearic Islands. There are several grottos 
filled with stalactites in the Monserrat mass. 

The Balearic Islands. —There is regular com- 
munication between Barcelona and Palma, the 
capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the 
chief town of the province which to-day bears 
the name of Baleares, and which comprises the 
islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several 
others. Palma (Oran Hotel) is a pretty town 
with narrow streets, in the midst of a delightful 
country. Tliere are a few fine buildings tn it. 
See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426, 



4G8 SPAIN. Saragossa. 

finished 22 years later; the Citadel, built at the 
close of the 16th century: the Palace of the 
Captain General: the Cathedral, founded 1230, 
finished 1601. An excursion to Miramer, the 
estate of an Austrian archduke, is interest- 
ing. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the 
Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that 
house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, 
went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name 
of King Martin, wtien that island belonged to 
the crown of Aragon. In the island of 
Minorca, Port Mahon (Hotel Bustamente) is the 
principal town, much frequented by navigators 
of all nations. The English were there for a 
long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. 

From Barcelona those who have time may 
find it interesting to visit Saragossa. 

Saragossa {Fonda de Eiiropa; Las Cuatro 
Naciones) existed in the time of the Romans. 
Augustus Caesar founded a military colony 
there, to whidh he gave the name of Caesarea 
Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The 
ry. stats, are some distance outside the town, 
which has a population of 92,000, and is sit- 
uated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned 
for its obstinate resistance to the army of Na- 
poleon during the memorable siege of 1808, 
and still shows marks of bullets on its walls, 
the Gate of Nuestra Senora del Carmen is a 
noble memorial of the siege. From the stone 
bridge which unites the town with the suburb 
of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and 
the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object 
of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish 
Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was 
built here about tTie year 40 of the Christian era 



SPAIN. Saragossa. 469 

by the orders of the Virgin herself, who brought 
to it the pillar and the statue so much venerated 
to-day. Even when the mausoleums were in- 
jured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar 
were preserved. The first stone of the present 
ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather 
naked and cold. There are, however, some beau- 
tiful marble columns upholding the sculptured 
vault. In the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo at- 
tributed to Titian. The Gh. of San Salvador, or 
the Seo, that is, the Episcopal seat, is consid- 
ered, however, as more important than the first 
mentioned one. It is sumptuously ornamented, 
and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has 
an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here 
representing the history of the Saviour, of the 
adoration of the Magi, the Ascension, etc.; also 
several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of 
the celebrated sculptor Tudelilla, and the cha- 
pels are very rich. The subterranean ch. of 
Santa Engracia, where repose the remains of 
many Christian martyrs, who were slain by the 
soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. 
was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. 
The other chs. are too numerous to mention. 
The Casa Mivnicipal, the Lonja, or Exchange, 
with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 
beautiful columns in four rows; the Ch. of San 
Pahlo ; the Aljaferia, which was a palace of 
pleasure for the Arab Kings; the Bull Ring; a 
great number of beautiful private residences; 
the University, which has a library of 25,000 
vols.; some convents and hospitals; and the sub- 
urb of Santa Engracia, may all be readily 
seen in the course of half a day. From the 
little hills in the neighborhood there are very 



470 SPAIN. Tarragona. 

pretty views. On the way from Barcelona to 
Saragossa you pass througJi 

Lerida {Fo7ida Suiza; De Espana). From here 
there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral 
is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic re- 
mains, mixed with various Arabic styles; pic- 
turesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral 
built under Charles III., is a fine Corinthian 
edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great 
number of chapels and many fine altars. 

The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the 
limits which we had assigned for a brief jour- 
ney through Spain. We recommend the tourist 
to go through Tarragona along the coast to 
Valencia. You leave Barcelona very early in the 
morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in 
the evening. Take your provisions with you 
from the hotel. The journey affords a fine 
series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. 
After leaving Tarragona you pass through re- 
markably wild scenery along the base of rocky 
mts.. and then descend into the delicious land- 
scape in the neighborhood of Valencia, filled 
with groves of oranges and lemons, and with a 
great variety of semi-tropi-cal shrubs. 

Tarragona (Paris; Europa) is a very old 
town of about 30,000 inhab., once the centre of 
the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are 
the sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The 
Paseo de Santa Clara is built over the remains 
of the Roman Walls. Very ancient gates here. 
Some of the modern residences are built with 
the debris of temples and of Roman palaces. 
The Place of the Constitution is on the site of 
an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is Gothic 
in style; interior vast, aspect majestic, orna- 



SPAIN. Valencia. 471 

ments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in old 
Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and 
statues; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are the 
remains of Don Jaime I., King of Aragon, and 
his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place 
of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified 
city on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). 
Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little im- 
portance. Shortly hefore reaching Valencia you 
pass Murviedro, near which are the ruins of the 
celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If 
you go to to these ruins, visit them at midday. 
Valencia {Gran Hotel; Espana; Paris) is the 
chief town (160,000 inhab.) of the province of 
the same name, the residence of a captain gen- 
eral and of the archbishop. It is beautifully sit- 
uated in the midst of a great number of groves 
and gardens. About 2^ M. distant is its port, 
called El Grao. which is accessible for large 
steamships. Valencia may be seen in short 
time. The first impression of it is not imposing, 
but the beauties of its natural situation and its 
architecture grow upon one. The principal 
squares are those oi the Constitution, where is 
the city hah; that of S. Francisco; that of S. 
Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth 
spending an hour or two in when the peasantry 
from the neighboring mts. are there; the cele- 
brated Exchange and the Silk Hall. The Audi- 
encia is a fine building of the 16th century. 
The principal halls are ornamented with good 
portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- 
nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The 
Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower 
is called El Miguelcie. from the name of the big 
bell wh'ch was baptized in the name of S. 



472 SPAIN. Alicante. 

Michael. From the platform of the tower, 
splendid v^'ew of the sea and the coast. The 
interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported 
bj- square pillars with Corinth'an capitals. 
High mass in this eh. is a splendid spectacle. 
Visit the Sala Capitular, immense quantity of 
relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. 
The Ch. of 8. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its 
tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del 
Hospital is the tomb of one of the Empresses of 
Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is 
occupied by the civil government. Very fine 
hospitals here. The UniversHy buildings are 
not remarkable. In the Church of Corpus 
Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. An in- 
visible mechanism wmds up his canvas and 
opens 4 great curtains showing a superb cru- 
cifix, which is much venerated by the Valeur 
cians. The Provincial Museum is in the old 
convent del Carmen (9-4, ^ fr.. Sun 10-2 free) ; 
it contains numerous old pictures, though few 
of great merit. The Theatre is large, but with- 
out character. The Bull Ring is immense. The 
principal promenades are the Almeda, the Bota- 
nical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks by 
the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory, 
3500 women are occupied. The Valencian wo- 
men are renowned for their beauty. From Va- 
lencia you may go to Alicante via La Encina. 
Alicante {Reina Victoria; Fonda de Bossio) 
is a fine seaport (40,000 inhab.). The town has 
no remarkable architectural features. The 
streets are large and well paved. The Alameda 
de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked 
with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 
2 chs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. 



SPAIN. Albacete. 473 

Clara, or of the Holy Face, as it is called, pos- 
sesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief 
with which S. Veronica wiped the sweat from 
the brow of the Saviour. The Citadel of S. Bar- 
bara is supposed to he impregnable. You may 
also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This 
last mentioned town is beautifully situated on a 
mt.-chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- 
vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the 
walls of an old fortress. A French writer says 
that the rly. here seems to be the alley through 
a region of gardens. Returning form Alicante 
to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar 
de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way 
you pass. 

Albacete (Fonda Francisquillo) , renowned for 
its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the 
merchandise are always offered by peddlers to 
passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S. 
Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to 
Portugal branch off from the main line from 
Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which 
the Order of the Knights of St. John made its 
headquarters. Decent refreshment-room here. 
Attend carefully to your baggage. From the 
Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is 
one of the most interesting in Spain, and de- 
cends into Andalusia. At Manzanares the line 
to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You 
pass through Val de Penas, whence you get a 
good view of the Sierra Morena. Between the 
Alcazar and the Val de Penas lies much of the 
country described in Do7i Quixote. Many in- 
teresting points on the line. Notice Almuradieh 
and Vilches. near which is the great plain where 
in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great 



474 SPAIN. Cordova. 

Mussulman hordes under the command of Ma- 
homed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine 
bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there 
is little of importance to be seen except the 
large ch. in what is known as. the Plateresque 
style of architecture. 

Cordova (Fonda de Espana; Suiza; Simon) 
is an old town of 55,000 inhab., situated in a 
delicious plain on the r. bank of the Guadal- 
quivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra 
Morena. Cordova has sumptuous museum of 
antiquities: a great collection of edifices of all 
epochs; and is divided into two parts by one 
long street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal 
artery for the commerce of the city. The walls 
which still surround it are flanked with towers, 
octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the 
work of successive generations of Saracen and 
Christian architects. The Plaza de la Consti- 
tution is surrounded by fine buildings. The 
old stone bridge over the stream is attributed 
to Octavius Augustus. The principal objects of 
interest are the old Alcazar, and the garden 
of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. For per- 
mission to enter address the porter. The new 
Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Pal- 
ace is built of very rich materials but not in re- 
markably good taste: fine gardens and good li- 
brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the 
bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Tri- 
unfo, a handsome marble monument, surmoun- 
ted with a column which bears a gilded bronze 
statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the 
houses in the city are ornamented with in- 
scriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 



SPAIN. Cordova. 475 

trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the 
rly. station. 

The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly 
one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. 
It was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and 
completed finally in 990. The exterior is rather 
gloomy; the courtyard within, remarkably 
beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with 
fountains in the centre, and is planted with 
orange and cypress trees. The interior of the 
Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as 
a "marble grove." The roof is supported by a 
vast number of slender pillars, beautifully 
wrought with Corinthian capitals and shafts of 
various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, 
etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta 
del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of 
Oranges. The Milirah, or the Holy of Holies, is 
very curious. The Mosque was converted into a 
Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the Cole- 
giata de San Hipolito are two urns containing 
the ashes of King Alfonso XL and his father, 
Ferdinand IV.; also the tomb of the celebra- 
ted chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. 
of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth 
seeing. The Convent of S. Pa'blo has beautiful 
cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many 
other convents are rich in works of art. .Just 
outside town is the sanctuary of Our Lady of 
la Fuen Santa; great public festival here on the 
8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the 
Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. 
From Cordova to Granada the distance is 153^ 
^I. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one 
of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. 
Here the Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, 
was born. At BobadiUa a branch line to the r. 



476 SPAIN. Granada. 

goes to Malaga (refreshment room here) 
Antequera is an old fortress, said to have beer 
built in Roman times. Notice the colossa 
bronze angel on the cupola of the eh. of Sar 
Sebastian; also the Arch of Hercules, a Romac 
ruin. 

Granada (Washington Irving and Roma, near 
Alhambra; Alameda, Victoria, and Nuevo Ori 
ente. in the town), a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is 
world famous, and we shall only briefly indi- 
cate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the 
other curiosities of the town in a short time. 
Granada is grouped on the slopes of 3 hills. 
The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so 
called because of their color, are on the first 
and the last of these hills. The Alhambra, 
which is a city in itself, covers the second and 
the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, sep- 
arated from the others by a deep ravine filled 
with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs 
the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is di- 
vided into 4 large sections. The modern city 
occupies the part of the valley between the hills 
of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice 
the Plaza del Triunfo, at the end of which is the 
Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble 
column, with statue of the Virgin, and also a 
monument to Mariana Pineda a martyr to the 
cause of freedom. Here also are the Royal Hos- 
pital and the Convent of the Merced. On the 
Plaza Nueva, reached by the Zacatin, is the 
fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of 
Santa Ana. Here is a University, with rich 
library and a rather inferior collection of pic- 
tures. The Cathedral, to be seen from 8 a. m. to 
noon and 3 to 5 p. m., has a fine front orna- 



SPAIN. Graxada. 477 

mented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior 
has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, 
formed of columns grouped together. The 
Door of the Pardon is very fine. The 
Capilla del Pilar is filled with beautiful marbles. 
See the group of "Charity" in the Sala Cap- 
itular, the work of Torn'giani, the Florentine 
artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. 
The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly 
decorated in Spain. The Royal CJiapel was built 
to receive the remains of Ferdinand and Isa- 
bella, and here are their tombs. The two royal 
statues lie on the sarcophagus: two lions re- 
pose at their feet. Here are the crown and the 
sceptre of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. 
In a second mausoleum near by are the remains 
of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and Phillip 
her husband. The tower of the Cathedral is 
unfinished. 

The Alhambra is o^en daily from 8 to 12 a. m. 
and 1.30 to 5 p. m. Leaving the Plaza Nueva 
you scale the Cuesta de los Gomeres. At the top 
of this street you find the Puerta de las Grana- 
das, a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles V., 
where formerly stood an ancient Arabic gate. 
Beyond this lie the groves and the gardens 
which surround the Alhambra. We will simply 
enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de 
Cai'los v., ornamented with statues; the Puerta 
de Juicio, or Door of Judgment, the Plaza de los 
Algiheo, or Place of the Cisterns; the Puerta 
de Vino; the Palace of Cliarles Y., a fine Renais- 
sance structure, but unfinished. The centre is 
occupied by a circular patio or court, sur- 
rounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 
Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a mar- 



478 SPAIN. Granada. 

vellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 
400 ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 inte- 
rior courts. The principal fagade, which was 
to the N., was demolished to* make room for the 
Palace of Charles V. Its main entrance opened 
on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can enter 
it to-day only through a small corridor behind 
the N. facade of the Imperial palace. The Hall 
of the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mi- 
rador, or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio 
de la Mezquita, the Hall of the Baths, the Patio 
de las Rajas, the Court of Lions, the most pre- 
cious specimen of Arabesque architecture in 
Spain, with 128 white marble columns in the 
galleries surrounding it, with a floor of white 
marble, a noble fountain, and 12 great sculp- 
tured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal, of the 
Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall 
of the Al)encerrages, should be carefully stu- 
died. In the hall of the Two Sisters is the 
famous Alhambra Vase, the finest known ex- 
ample of Hispano-Moresque faience. The Royal 
Chapel, which is rarely open, contains a great 
variety of artistic treasures. From the platform 
of the Tower of the Vela there is an admirable 
view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old 
bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. 
of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of 
the Carceles, of Los Siete Suelos, del Agua, de 
las Infayitas and many others, should be care- 
fully inspected. To visit the Generalife you 
leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the 
hill by a route which crosses the ravine of 
Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot 
of the hills of a neighboring mt. The Gen- 
eralife was the pleasure house of the Alhambra. 



SPAIN. Malaga. 479 

But little remains of it except a few arcades 
and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the 
few halls which are still covered with a roof, 
there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings 
of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. 
"From the Tower of the Generalife," says a 
French writer, "you fancy that you can touch 
the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid is the 
air through which you} see that mountain 
chain." There are a gi-eat many beautiful ex- 
cursions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, 
but to enjoy them one must remain in the vi- 
cinity at least a week. The gypsy encampments 
in the country-side are very interesting, but 
the prudent traveller will scarcely care to ven- 
ture among them without a stout escort, and a 
pocketful of small change, for they are impor- 
tunate beggars. From Granada the distance to 
Malaga by rail is 119 M. 

Malaga {Regma, on the Alameda; Colon; 
Ville Camera; Belvedere), with 135,000 inhab., 
may be easily seen in half a day. The exqui- 
site climate and the beautiful situation of the 
town are its chief attractions. The Episcopal 
Palace, the City Hall, the new Custom House. 
the Theatre, which can contain 2,000 spectators, 
the vast Bull Ring, which holds 10,000, are not 
architecturally remarkable. The Alcazaba is 
an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic 
occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal 
of the Moors. The castle of Gibralfaro is on a 
hill to the E. of the city. The highest tower 
is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and 
near 100 ft. high. Good view from this tower. 
The most beautiful promenade in this town is 
the Alameda; many pretty fountains and stat- 



480 SPAIN. Gibraltar. 

ues here. The Cathedral, which would be rich 
in any other country, is not remarkable for 
Spain. All through this country grow wheat, 
oats, olives, all kinds of fruit': orange, lemon, 
and fig trees are abundant. Try and time your 
visit to Granada so as to connect with the 
steamer going to Gibraltar. 

Gibraltar {Bristol; Grand; Continental) is a 
city situated on a slope on the W. part of the 
famous rock and facing the bay. It has about 
28,000 inhab. exclusive of the English garrison 
of 6,000 men. Main Street is the principal 
artery of the town. A narrow road connects the 
mainland with the rock, and this is guarded by 
batteries. From top to bottom the mt. is full of 
excavations, and out of every one looks the 
mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished 
tower, called O'Hara's or St. George's. It was in- 
tended to be sufficiently high to enable the sen- 
tinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the 
movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, 
sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles 
of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip 
v., presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- 
cations of which were then in ruins and occu- 
pied by a garrison of 80 men. The town was 
taken, and although in the name of the arch- 
duke, England thought it proper to keep it. 
Various attempts to take it back were made in 
1727, 1779, and 1782, but without success. The 
fortifications can be visited with special permis- 
sion, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. 
There is also a good club to which strangers 
may be presented. Excursions may be made 
from Gibraltar to several interesting points on 
the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. 



SPAIN. Cadiz. 481 

Opposite Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras 
(Hotel Reina Christina), the occasional scene 
of international conferences. It is a typically 
Spanish town situated on a beautiful bay and 
commanding a fine view of the rock and fortifi- 
cations of Gibraltar. 

Cadiz (Hotel Continental; Fonda de Francia; 
Fonda de Cadiz) is one of the most charming of 
Spanish towns (64,000 inhab.). It is on a penin- 
sula, which extends into the ocean, and is gen- 
erally considered the most agreeable town in 
Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its posi- 
tion is well calculated for defence. Notice the 
Fort of S. Catalina; also the Fort of S. Sebas- 
tian. From the Torre de la Vigia, in the centre 
of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadiz 
and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are 
white, and their terraces and balconies are very 
picturesque. The Casas Consistorialeb occupy 
fine buildings on the Plaza de Isabel Segunda. 
The Alameda is a fine promenade on one of the 
ramparts N. E. of the city. The Park Genoves 
is a fine pleasure ground with sea view. There 
are many colleges and seminaries, as well as an 
Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. 
The new Cathedral, which is at the south end of 
the town, is not a very successful piece of archi- 
tecture. A great profusion of marbles has 
been used in its decoration, but the general 
effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treas- 
ury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathe- 
dral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of 
the Convent of S. Catalina are some pictures by 
Murillo. Steam communication between Cadiz 
and Portugal. England, Holland, the French and 
German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent. 



482 SPAIN. Seville. 

You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steam- 
boat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 hrs.; fares, 15p.; 
breakfast on board from 2 to 3 p. The journey 
is pretty, but most travellers will probably pre- 
fer the rail route, about 82| M.; passing through 
Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty tov^n, enriched 
by commerce in wine and other products of its 
generous soil. Here see curious monastery, mu- 
seum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. 
S. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian mon- 
astery. 

Seville (Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Ingla- 
terra; de Oriente), with 143,000 inhabitants, re- 
quires a comparatively long visit. We will not 
attempt to describe it in detail, but will simply 
indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its 
ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets 
are narrow and crooked, and nearly all the 
houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, 
separated from the street by vestibules paved 
with white and black marble, and closed by 
doors of iron gratings beautifully worked by 
skilful artisans. The Plaza S. Fernando is a 
vast square which in the morning is inundated 
with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, 
and surrounded on three sides by hotels and 
boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Pal- 
ace of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Genova, 
at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the 

Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its fa- 
mous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. 
Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and ■ 
majesty of the Catholic religion so well seen as 
here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab 
architecture, was the minaret of the old mosque 
of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville 



SPAIN. Seville. 483 

after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was 
built during the 12th century by the Arab El 
Ghebir, who was the inventor of algebra. The 
tower is 350 ft. high. In 1568 it was capped 
with a belfry, which in its turn is surrounded 
by an enormous statue of Faith, which despite 
its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. 
The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, fln- 
ished 1519, but owing to weakness of construc- 
tion and damage by earthquake has undergone 
several restorations. The most striking entrance 
is the Puerta del Perdon. which was probably 
in the old times the entrance to a minaret. It 
opens on the Orange Court, from which you pass 
under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by 
the so-called Lizard Door. Notice especially the 
Chief Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the 
Tomb of Fernando Golumhus, the Capilla Real, 
which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and 
the tomb of Alfonso the Wise; also a portrait of 
Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the 
Baptistry. Observe the noted picture represent- 
ing St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of 
its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, 
and has now been restored. In the upper sac- 
risty there- are also several paintings by the 
same artist. In the sacristy of Los Calices is a 
St. Dorothea by Murillo, an "Ecce Homo" by 
Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya. In 
the Sacristia Mayor is the vast and magnificent 
custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arte. 
It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned 
with a statue of St. John and covered with a 
most prodigious number of ornaments and stat- 
ues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- 
stant succession of curious spectacles, religious 



484 SPAIN. Seville. 

in character. From the top of the Giralda Tower, 
which is reached by an inclined plane, up which 
it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, 
good view of the town, the river winding 
through the plains, and the hills beyond. Leav- 
ing the Cathedral by the Giralda Door, you 
reach the square on which is the Archbishop's 
Palace. Thence go around the Cathedral to the 
Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- 
memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the 
middle of this square is the Lonja, where is 
precious collection of documents relative to the 
discovery and conquest of America. This is 
called the Indian archives. Not far away is 

The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at 
Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most 
beautiful Moorish monument in Spain. It was 
connected with the great walls that ran round 
Seville in the time of the Arabs. In the Alcazar 
were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, 
Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XL, father of Don 
Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very 
civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable 
pay, will give you full description of the beau- 
ties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you 
through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by 
the Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit Se- 
ville. The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. 

The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an 
edifice built at the beginning of the 16th cen- 
tury, by the first Marquis of Tarifa. Tradition 
says he had brought back from a journey made 
to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of earth from 
the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was 
sufficient to form the layer on which were laid 
the foundaitions of the present palace, built on 



SPAIN. Seville. 485 

the plans of the dwelling of Pilate at Jerusalem. 
There are a great number of curious and inter- 
esting palaces and private houses to be seen in 
Seville. The Casa de los Taveros, w^here the tri- 
bunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will at- 
tract the traveller's attention. The guides pro- 
cure admission for you to the patios of the rich- 
est houses, where you can get an idea of the 
luxury and beauty of these southern Spani -h 
residences. The Gh. of S. Martino has some 
good pictures. The Hospital of La Caridad, or 
the Charity, near the Golden Tower, which 
stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, con- 
tains several of Murillo's best paintings. The 
provincial museum is also quite rich in works of 
Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Mu- 
rillo was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Pal- 
ace of Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of 
Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. 
Its gardens now form the Parque Maria Luisa. 
Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is 
deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadal- 
quivir are lined with warehouses, and the traffic 
is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our 
plan for a short Spanish journey, we recom- 
mend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you 
have not stopped at Cordova on your way dow^n, 
but have gone directly through from the Alca- 
zar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there 
on your return journey. Time from Seville to 
Cordova, nearly 4 hrs. From Cordova to Madrid 
it is 274^ M. ; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs. 
The express trains are somewhat faster and 
more expensive. In the late summer and au- 
tumn months there is an express train, 3 times 
a week each way, between Madrid and Seville. 



486 SPAIN. Madrid. 

Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is 
the station of GastilHjo. where you may branch 
off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. 
It is better to go to Madrid first ; then to make 
the Toledo visit a round-trip excursion of one 
day. A little beyond Castillijo is 

Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet, at the Cafe 
Casino. This is one of the summer residences 
of the Spanish court. Here is a palace, beauti- 
fully situated, commanding an immense view; 
but there is little that is architecturally striking 
in the building. The gardens are quite remark- 
able. The river Tagus flows through the domain. 

Madrid iG-ran Hotel de la Paz; de Roma; de 
Paris; Ingles; Guatro Naziones; Peninsular; 
Oriente), with 510,000 inhab., is the capital of 
Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains 
the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said 
of Madrid that it v/as a "capital with malice 
aforethought," by which he alluded to its situa- 
tion in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in 
winter by the murderous winds from the mts. 
We recommend the tourist to devote his chief 
attention to the museum; then, if his time per- 
mits, to include the other edifices and collections 
of Madrid. 

The Museo del Prado contains vast and abso- 
lutely unrivalled collection of the works of the 
old masters, but they are not very well ar- 
ranged. Two immense galleries are consecrated 
to Spanish painters, and others contain the dif- 
ferent Italian, French, Flemish, and Dutch 
schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum 
can be formed from the statement that it con- 
tains 46 pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 
by Ribera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by 



SPAIN. Madrid. 487 

Rubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by 
Luca Giordano, 22 by Van Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 
16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by G-uido Reni, 43 by 
Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Vero- 
nese. About half-way down the principal gal- 
lery a door opens into an oval hall called the 
Salon de la Reyna Isadel. Here are grouped to- 
gether the chefs d'oeuvre of the museum. The 
guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited 
with great care may be had at the booksellers', 
or at the museum. 

In the Real Academia de Bellas Artes there 
is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large 
rooms; Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran 
are well represented. The Museo de Arte Mo- 
derno contains modern Spanish paintings and 
sculptures. There are several interesting pri- 
vate collections in Madrid. The couriers at the 
hotels will indicate them to you. 

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated 
in the W. part of the town. Among the 30 rooms 
on the 1st floor, the largest and finest is the 
Hall of the AmJ)assado7-s. The vault was paint- 
ed by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of 
the Spanish monarchs. The walls are draped 
with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- 
mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of 
the throne, which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze 
lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the 1. that 
of Justice. The chapel is extremely rich, but 
not very handsome. The library, the theatre, 
the magnificent collection of Flemish tapestries, 
should be seen. On the S. of the square of the 
Palacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Ar- 
mor), which contains an extremely interesting 
collection. Here are, among many relics of fa- 



488 SPAIN. Madrid. 

mous dead, the sword of the Cid Campeador, 
that of the Great Captain, Gonzalvo of Cordova, 
and that of Don Juan of Austria; also the hel- 
met of Francis I. The Military Museum of Ar- 
tillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. 
At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip 
IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a compilete 
review of the progress made in artillery from 
the 12th to the 17th century. Here also are 
many flags carried during the Spanish conquest 
of America. The naval museum, the cabinet of 
natural history, the botanical garden, the 
library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid 
has several important libraries, most noticeable 
among which are those of the University and of 
the legislative bodies. 

The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of 
Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very 
remarkable. Its interior is very richly orna- 
mented with fine paintings: that of the Senate 
occupies the old ch. of an Augustinian convent. 
In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the 
Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. 
The other public buildings and the Palaces are 
rather cold and formal in structure. The effect 
of the architecture of Madrid is not pleasing, 
compared with the wonderful richness of deco- 
ration to which the eye has become accustomed 
in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mayor the 
equestrian statue of Philip III.; and in the 
Plaza cle Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In the 
Plaza cle las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. 
None of the churches is particularly striking; 
the Cathedral de Nuestra Sefiora de la Almu- 
dena is on the site of the old Armory. The Ch. 
of the Atocha, a modern Romanesque structure, 



SPAIN. Madrid. 489 

contains the tombs of General Castanos, of 
Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. In the 
old church the marriages of the royal family 
were celebrated, and the troops took the oath of 
allegiance. The cemeteries of the neighborhood 
of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which 
the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. 
The Plaza de Toros, or the Bull Ring of Madrid, 
is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a 
structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, 
and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. Every 
seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, 
which are usually given every Sunday from 
April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. 
Be careful in choosing your place to note that 
it is on the shady side {om'bra) . This is very 
important in Spain. The comic opera and some 
of the minor theatres should be visited. The 
prado is a large boulevard which runs round a 
great part of the city, from the old Atocha gate 
to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum 
is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings 
is a magnificent display of Spanish beauty; 
commemorative monument here to the second of 
May, one of the episodes of the French occupa- 
tion of 1808. There are numerous other fine 
promenades within the city. The Puerta de 
Alcala, an arch of triumph to commemorate 
the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be 
seen on the w^ay to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de 
Toledo was built to celebrate the return of Fer- 
dinand VII. from his captivity. The Plaza de 
Madrid is quite fine. There are several bridges 
over the little river Monzanares, which oddly 
enough is for the greater part of the year with- 
out any water in its channel. The Pwerta del 



490 SPAIN. Madrid. 

Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of the city. 
About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank of the 
Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. 
Excursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 
31* M. from Madrid: five trains daily; fares, 6 
p. 15, 4 p. 60. The Escurial is called by the 
Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. 
Philip II. built it in 1685 to commemorate the 
taking of St. Quentin, and to accomplish a vow 
which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast build- 
ing has 15 principal entrances, and more than 
1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, 
and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The 
ch., the Capilla Mayor, filled with royal monu- 
ments, the sacristy, a vast vaulted hall with a 
marble altar ornamented with bronze, the choir, 
and the pantheon or vault, where the kings of 
S:pain are buried, are the principal things to 
see. You reach the pantheon by a magnificent 
staircase of granite and marble. The urn con- 
taining the remains of Charles V. was opened 
in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect 
preservation. The Library of books and the MS. 
Library will attract the attention of scholars. 
The main entrance to the palace is in the middle 
of the N. fagade. See the Hall of Battles, cov- 
ered with frescos representing Spanish con- 
quests; and the apartments in which Philip IL 
lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., 
called the Casa del Principe, is a charming little 
museum of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. 
See the King's Seat, where Philip II. came to sit 
when presiding over the work of the palace. 
The royal abode of La Granja is on the route 
from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are 



SPAIN. Toledo. 491 

said to be even more splendid than those of the 
palace at Madrid. 

There are two routes from Madrid to the an- 
cient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads 
through the royal residence town of Aranjuez; 
the other is a little more direct ; fares about the 
same by both lines. 

Toledo (Hotel Castilla; Fonda de Lino; Im- 
perial) is one of the most remarkable towns 
in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the valley at the 
foot of the hill, near the fine old Alcantara 
Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the 
train to the top of the hill. On the way up ob- 
serve the fine view in the valley, where old To- 
ledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was 
situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 
20,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve 
around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara 
and the >Sf. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the 
city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the 
rocks; great gates flanked with Moorish towers: 
old Puerta Visagra. which dates from the Arabic 
domination; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the 
interior of the city, a chef d'oeiivre of Arabic 
architecture, are all impressive. The principal 
square is the bid Zocodover. to-day called the 
Place of the Constitution. The principal objects 
of interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar, the 
celebrated Ch. and Convent of 8. Juan de los 
Reyes, and a military college. The Cathedral 
was begun in 1227, and finished 2^ centuries 
later. Its architecture is pure Gothic; exterior 
of great majesty. The principal W. front has 
3 doors, called those of the Escribanos, the Per- 
don, and the Torre. Door of the Pardon is the 
largest and richest. To the r. of the facade is 



492 * SPAIN. Yalladolid. 

the tower: on the 1. the Mozarabic chapel. The 
tower is nearly 300 ft. high, and the great bell 
in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of 
the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce 
a detailed description of them here. Observe 
particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich 
chapels, the Capilla Mayor, the wonderful effect 
of the vast range of stained-glass windows, espe- 
cially when the sun is shining through them in 
the morning, the Coro, and the beautiful GrOthic 
portal of the 8ala Capitular. The Tornbs of the 
Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Car- 
dinal de Albornoz are very imposing. 

The Gh. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is 
ornamented with a great number of chains hung 
on the walls outside, memorials of captivities 
among Moslems. The cloisters, recently re- 
stored, are among the most beautiful in the 
world. The stone sculptures here are of extraor- 
dinary delicacy and finish. The provincial mu- 
seum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. 
8. Maria la Blanca is a curious memorial of the 
Jewish epoch. The Military College contains 
about 600 cadets, who study their profession 
here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar 
is a superb edifice which crosses the highest 
point of the hill on which the city is built. Ait 
the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The 
courtyard is formed of .82 arcades. It has been 
three times burned and three times restored. 
In the court is a group commemorating the con- 
quest of Tunis by Charles V. See the Paseo de 
las Rosas; the Paseo de Madrid. 

Valladolid (Hotel Espafiol; Francia; Moder- 
no) is the next place of interest; although from 
the junction of Medina del Campo you can go 



SPAIN. Burgos. 493 

by branch lines to the old university town of 
Salamanca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town 
of 65,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see 
University, Cathedral, Santa Maria la Antigua, 
San Pablo, Golegio de San Gregorio, Museum, 
Columbus Monument, House of Cervantes, Royal 
Palace. The University Library has a collection 
of Bibles. See Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los 
Cuchillos" in the church of Las Angustias, and 
house where Columbus died in 1506. The Mu- 
seum of Valladolid, which is located in the Gole- 
gio de Santa Cruz, contains sculptures in wood 
and examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, 
Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure 
of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, or 
tabernacle, in silver. 

Burgos {Hotel de Paris; Fonda del Xor-te; 
Universal) , with 32,000 inhab., may be seen in 
a short time. Notice the Bronze Statue of 
Charles III.; the celebrated Casa del Cordon; 
the Casa de Miranda, covered with sculptures; 
the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine 
alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, 
gardens, and fountains; the Cathedral, one of 
the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 
2 clock-towers are of Grothic architecture. The 
principal fagades towards the W. is a marvel of 
stone lacework. The interior is magnificent, 
and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, 
sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc. Observe the Tomb 
of the Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Este- 
ban is a very fine Ceria. Notice the Triumphal 
Arch raised by Philip II. to Fernando Gonzales; 
also the house of the Cid, or the monument 
erected in 1784 on the ruins of that house. In 
the City Hall are the remains of the Great Cap- 



494 FRANCE. Biarritz.— Bayonne. 

tain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured 
wooden coffin. The Arch of 8. Maria is very 
handsome. Many fine excursions in the vicinity 
of Burgos. 

The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and 
8an Sebastian (the pretty watering-place fre- 
quented in late years by English and Ameri- 
cans) all deserve attention; but the tourist will 
hardly find time to stop at any of them. The 
frontier of France is reached at Irun. There is 
little of importance to see in Irun: memorials 
of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. 
Hendaye is the first French station. A little 
beyond it is 8. Jean de Luz. The old town of 
Fontarabia may be reached from Irun. 

Next comes Biarritz (Grand Hotel; Victoria; 
d'Angleterre; des Princes; Chateau des Falai- 
ses; Pavilion Hetiri-Quatre; good Casino here; 
omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of 
the most popular seaside resorts on the S. coast 
of France. It was a favorite resort of the 
Empress Eugenie. 

Bayonne, 23 f M. from Irun {Grand Hotel; 
de Paris; 8t. Etienne) , with 27,000 inhab., is at 
the confluence of the Adour and the Nive. Fine 
stained glass windows in the Cathedral, 15th 
century. The Place Grammont contains the 
Theatre, the Mairie, and the Custom House. 
Good view of the sea from the citadel. The 
bayonet was invented here, whence its name. 



PORTUGAL. Lisbon. 495 



PORTUGAL. 

WE have thought it probable that the vaca- 
tion tourists would not be likely to push 
their journey as far as Lisbon, but we give a 
short paragraph concerning the journey to Por- 
tugal. Madrid to Badajos, 371* M. From Bada- 
jos to Lisbon it is 174 M.; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains 
a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that 
of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary 
unit, is about i centime, or 2+ mills: each franc 
is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, 
or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish 
peseta is 184 reis. On the way from Badajos 
to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where 
there are many curious remains of the Moorish 
architecture of the Middle Ages. 

Lisbon ( Avenida Palace; Grand Hotel Cen- 
tral, situated on the Bay; Continental; Ingla- 
terra; Durand) , with 360,000 inhab., is on the r. 
bank of the river Tagus, built in an amphi- 
theatre on numerous hills. The general view 
of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail 
is magnificent. The finest streets are those of 
the Duro do Praca Augusta, the Chiado, and 
Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Praca do 
Commercio. has the largest and most remark- 
able public buildings in the city. It is also 
called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the mid- 
dle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue of 



49G PORTUGAL. Coimbra. 

Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous 
buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the 
Post Office, the Ministries, etc. On the middle 
of the N. side, magnificent Triumphal Arch. 
The Cathedral, Chs. of ;Sf. Antonio, of ;Sf, Roque, 
of the Carmelites, and many convents have rich 
collections of art treasures. The Royal Palace, 
or Pago das Necessidades, faces a small square 
of the same name. See Botanical Gardens, re- 
ported the finest in the world. Observe beauti- 
ful aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. 
The Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, 
National Museum of Pine Arts, and the San 
Carlos and Dona Maria Segunda Theatres should 
be seen. There are but few remains of old Lis- 
bon, which was destroyed by the great earth- 
quake. The inclined plane rlys. are convenient; 
fine views on many of them. The Belem pos- 
sesses a great many fine gardens. The old Belem 
Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Al- 
mada Mafra. a vast convent ch. and the Palace of 
antra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are 
the principal suburban points for excursions. 
From Lisbon there is weekly steam communi- 
cation with South America, with the East, and 
with England. A journey may be made to 
Oporto, taking Coimbra on the way. Fares to 
Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r.; time, 11^ 
hrs.; distance, 158i M. 

Coimbra {Avenida; Mondegro) is on the r. 
bank of the Mondego and has a .mst delicious 
climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and 
has numerous manufacturers of faience. The 
Romans made it one of their most important 
military posts. To-day the remains of the old 
walls are still to be seen. University, with 900 



PORTUGAL. Oporto. 497 

studens, here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, 
and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the 
Twelve Apostles is remarkable. Visit Quinta 
das Lagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, 
where lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens. 

Oporto {Hotel Fra7icfort; Grande Hotel do 
Porto; Hdtel de Paris; Universal) , with 175,000 
inhab., is the second city of Portugal. It is 
built on two hills, and the valleys which extend 
between these are filled with charming villas 
and country-houses. The effect of the Quintas, 
or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, 
or La Se, is not especially striking. The town 
is divided into 3 quarters, the oldest of which, 
San Martinlio, has but little of importance. The 
Royal Hospital, the Ch. Bos Glerigos (with its 
high tower), the elegant theatre, the great bar- 
racks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady 
of Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro 
IV. is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of 
S. Francisco; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the 
Exchange, the Crystal Palace (Sunday concerts, 
adm. 100 reis), and the Museum, merit brief 
attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial 
town. From Lisbon to Evora it is 72 M; fares 
2,440 r., 1,940 r., 1,390 r. 

Evora {Hotel Eborense) is a highly fortified 
city of 20,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful 
fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. 
Many Roman antiquities here. From Lisbon a 
rly. runs to Faro, 1691 M. 

Faro {Madaleina; Central), on the S. coast 
of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 inhab., 
with a good cathedral; fine military hospital, 
large and well-built streets, and an excellent 
port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, 
is a small group of islands. 



498 FRANCE. Pau.— Cauterets. 

From Bayonne it is 65f M. to 

Pau (Hotel Gaisson; du Palais; de France; 
de la Poste), with 35,000 inhab., is one of the 
most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, 
and is a favorite winter resort because of its 
delicious climate. Life is rather expensive at 
Pau, but there are a great number of strangers 
there yearly; an abundance of beautifully fur- 
nished apartments are to be had. The town is 
div'ded into 2 parts by the little brooklet called 
the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The 
Castle of Henri IV. (open daily, 11-4), near 
Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flem- 
ish tapestries made by order of Francis I., in the 
great Hall of the States. The Ch. of S. Martin, 
modern; the Palace of Justice; the Museum 
(open Thurs. and Sun., from 12 to 4, free, and 
every day for a small fee); the Place Royale, 
with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be 
seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. by rly. 
to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux Bonnes 
(Hotel des Princes; de France; Continental) 
and Eaux-Chaudes. The former town receives 
between 6,000 and 10,000 invalids and tourists 
annually; vast bathing establishments here, 
also casino, concert halls, theatre, reading 
rooms, etc. The thermal establishment at Eaux- 
Chaudes (Hotel Baudot; de France) is one of 
the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters 
are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- 
tism, and skin diseases. 

Cauterets (Hotel Continental ; Regina; d'An- 
gleterre ; de la Paix) may be reached via Pau 
and Tarbes. There are 24 springs here and 9 
bathing establishments; about 20.000 tourists 
visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions 



FRANCE. Bordeaux. 499 

in the neighborhood. Going N., after leaving 
Bayonne, the first place of importance is 

Bordeaux {Hotel de Ffance; Gohineau; des 
Princes et de la Paix) , with 256,000 inhab., a 
beautiful town on the 1. bank of the Garonne. 
The city takes the form of a crescent, which it 
bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River 
here is very wide and deep, and navigable for 
nearly all classes of steamships. See the Bor- 
deaux bridge, built in 1819, from which admir- 
able view of the river, and its banks lined v/ith 
palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de 
la Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, 
is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All 
the principal hotels are in this neighborhood; 
but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux 
is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Ros- 
tral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- 
merce and Navigation. There are also marble 
statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu; 
an equestrian statue of Napoleon III., which 
stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 
1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an 
amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This 
is supposed to have been built by the Romans, 
in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre 
was consecrated in 1090; rebuilt at different 
epochs; and not long since restored. Near the 
Cathedral is the Bell Totoer of Pey-Berland, so 
called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. 
The Ch. of 8. Michel, founded 1160, belongs to 
the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell 
' tower. The ancient Ch. of S. Croix has a rich fa- 
cade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has 
numerous statues of noted Frenchmen. In the 
vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montes- 



500 FRANCE. Aecachon. — Toulouse. 

quieu. Many of the other public buildings are 
adorned with sculptures and paintings. The 
great Theatre has a fine vestibule ornamented 
with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that 
the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, 
and that the nation resolved to make peace with 
the Prussians. The Museum, founded 1803, has 
about 600 pictures of moderate merit; catalogue, 
2 fr. ; open daily ex. Mon. and Fri., 10-4, small 
fee. See Library, 200,000 vols., the Museum of 
Antiquities and the Museum of Natural His- 
tory, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of 
the Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb 
of Montesquieu. Bordeau is a very important 
commercial port: steam navigation with South 
America, Russia, Holland, England and Ireland, 
New York, and New Orleans. The public gar- 
den is a pretty promenade. The watering places 
of Bagneres de Bigorre and Bagneres de Lou- 
chon may both be conveniently reached from 
Bordeaux. 

From Bordeaux it is 34f M. to 

Arcachon (Grand H otel de Pins; Regina; Riche- 
lieu; Victoria). This is a charming seaside 
resort on the Bay of Biscay; and in the pine 
forest which stretches along the coast are a 
great number of winter villas. The Casino is 
a charming palace with Moresque cupolas and 
minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon 
annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^ M. to 

Toulouse (Hotel Tivollier; Capoul et Souville; 
■ de V Europe) ; with 150,000 inhab. This is the 
old capital of Languedoc, on the r. bank of the 
Garonne. There is but little of interest to the 
tourist here except the Cathedral of 8t. Etienne 
and the Museum (founded 1792) of antiquities, 



FRANCE. Angouleme. — Vichy. 501 

pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux to 
Paris it is 358^ M.; time, about 9 hrs. by ex- 
press. You pass through Angouleme, Poitiers, 
Tours, and Orleans. 

Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France; Nou- 
vel Hotel), on the Oharente, is an old town built 
on a rocky hill, and has a fine Gothic Cathedral, 
Theatre, a Cabinet of Natural History, and a 
good Library. 

Poitiers (Hotel du Palais; de V Europe; de 
France) is near the river Olain. Its finest 
square is the Place d'Armes. Cathedral in Gothic 
style, with very lofty halls. Interesting ch. 
of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine Notre Dame; 
many Roman antiquities here; Palace of Jus- 
tice, with room much like Westminster Hall in 
London. The English held this town 300 yrs. 
4 M. from Poitiers is the battle-field where the 
Black Prince defeated the French under John, 
in 1356. 

Orleans and Tours, see pages 197-198. 

Two of the most celebrated of French sum- 
mer-resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of 
which are easily reached from Lyons. 

Vichy (Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; de Cher- 
bourg; du Pare; des Princes; International) is 
on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley 
enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the 
most popular watering-place in France. 
Wonderful cures of gout and rheumatism are 
reported from Vichy. Bathing season begins 
May 1 and ends Oct. 7. The old town, with its 
ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. 
Most of the hotels are around or near the old 
Park, at one end of which is the bathing estab- 
lishment, and at tne other the Casino. 



502 FRANCE. Aix-les-Bains. 

Aix-les-Bains {Hotel de V Europe; Splendide; 
Beausite ; Bernascon et Regina; du Xord et 
Grande Bretugne; du Pavilion; des Ambassa- 
deurs) is a very popular watering-place in 
Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery; 9 sulphur springs 
here effect important cures. See Roman re- 
mains; Casino, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful 
excursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Ab- 
&et/ of Haute Combe, where are the tombs of 
the House of Savoy; to the Nivolet, The Revard, 
Pont de VAhhne; to Bourget; to the Cascade; 
to Gresy; to le Chdtelard; and to Annecy {Mont 
Blanc;; Yerdun; Beaurivage), a town of 15,- 
000 inhab. with a museum and extensive linen 
factories. 



DENMARK. Copenhagen. 503 

A TOUR IN THE NORTH. 

DENMARK. 

From Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), 
you may, if time permits, make a tour of great 
interest in the North. We will for the present 
content ourselves with briefly laying down some 
skeleton routes for a short journey through 
portions of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Rus- 
sia. You may begin your trip by going to the 
chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to Ger- 
man naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; 
from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5 hrs.; and 
from Korsor it is 2^ hrs. to Copenhagen. Or 
you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg 
to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 12^ hrs. 

Practical Information. — For the money in 
Denmark, Norv/ay, and Sweden, see table fol- 
lowing the preface. Steamboat schedules are 
frequently altered; remember this in making 
plans. — The best season for travelling in these 
countries is from June to mid September. — For 
a journey to the North Cape, select June or 
July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Nor- 
way should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, 
and an excellent Guide du Yoyageur, published 
in Stockholm, for detailed trips. 

Copenhagen {Phoenix; King of Denmark: d' 
Angleterre: Dagmar; Nilson; Borella) , 515,000 
inh., stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and 
is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used 



504 DENMARK. Copenhagen. 

as a promenade. The panorama of batteries, 
docks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the 
sea, is quite imposing. The E. part of the har- 
bor is protected by the Castle of Frederikshavn. 
Part of the city is built on the small Island of 
Amager, and is called Christianshavn. The 
channel between the two islands forms the port. 
Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and 
public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may be well be 
spent in inspecting the art collections. The 
royal residences are quite numerous. Amalien- 
horg, the chief house of the royal family, con- 
sists of four small palaces. That next to the 
Colonnade is the king's; the second is the For- 
eign Office; the third contains state apartments; 
the fourth pertains to the crown prince. Bronze 
Statue of Frederick V. in the square. The 
Royal Chapel faces the ruins of the Christian- 
borg Palace, burned down in 1884. The hand- 
some 3-towered Gfothic Rosenborg Castle is in 
the centre of the King's garden. There see 
Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — 
rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with 
relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Cham- 
ber of Christian IV.; the golden cups; the bed- 
room in which Christian IV. died, in 1648; 
the Marble Hall; the beautiful room called the 
Rose; and the Turret Chamber are the other 
curiosities. Observatory near this palace. Fred- 
eriksborg Palace (now a military school) is 
1 M. out, in a beautiful park. Zoological Gar- 
dens near by. In the Vor-Frue-Kirke (Ch. of 
Our Lady) are famous sculptures by Thorwald- 
sen; and in an alcove his coffin was placed 
at the funeral, while the royal family stood 
bareheaded round it. See Thorwaldsen's Bap- 



DENMARK. Copenhagen. 505 

tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — The Baptism 
of Christ and the Last Supper. The Museum 
11-3 contains a fine collection of modern Danish 
paintings and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), 
and also a number of older artists, being es- 
pecially rich in examples of the Rembrandt 
school. The Ny-GarWberg Glyptothek (10-5 
50 5; Sun. and Wed. free) contains very valu- 
able collections of ancient and modern sculp- 
ture. 

The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is the 
Thorioaldsen Museum built by subscription to 
contain casts of all his works and many originals 
(daily 11-3; on Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 
50 o.; catalogues at hotels and museum). Here 
also is the tomb of the great sculptor. In the 
Prind sens-Palais is the National Museum, con- 
taining the Danish Collection (prehistoric and 
historic) of northern antiquities, the Ethnogra- 
phic Collection; the Collection of Antiquities, 
and the Numismatic Collection. Open daily, 
except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. Visitors should see 
the Arsenal, close to the Christiansborg Palace 
(open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library (550,000 vols.) 
close by. Beautiful new equestrian statue in 
bronze opposite the palace. 

The Exchange, the Museum of Natural His- 
tory, the University. Library, the Ch. of the 
Trinity, with its famous Round Tower (built by 
Christian IV.), Count Moltke's collection of pic- 
tures (Wed., 12-2), and the pretty theatres are 
enough to keep visitors busily occupied for a 
week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlottenlund. a 
country house, inhabited in summer by some 
members of the royal family. Pretty drives 
hereabouts. Trolley to Deer Park, royal pre- 



506 DENMARK. Elsinore. 

serve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, 
and fallow deer, and to Hursholm, where once 
stood a superb palace built by Christian VI. Not 
far away is the Island of Hveen, where the as- 
tronomer Tycho Brahe resided. 

Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsi- 
nore, or Helsingor (Oresund; Jernhane), 30 M. 
from Copenhagen, easily reached by rail in 
fifty minutes. The Castle and the Cathedral are 
the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is 
a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a terrace 
among some trees is shown a mound, called 
the grave of Hamlet. Hamlet's identification 
with this spot is founded on very slight proof. 
Near Elsinor is Gurre, a famous residence of 
many Danish kings. Roeskilde was the most 
important town in Denmark, and remained a 
royal residence from the 10th to the 15th 
century. The Cathedral is the finest building 
of its kind in Denmark. On the so-called 
"King's Column'' in this cathedral are cut in the 
stone the records of the heights of many royal 
personages, including Peter the Great and Ed- 
ward VII. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, 
the chronicler, is buried. 

From Elsinore it is not far to Predensborg 
(see Park, open to the public), where the Danish 
Royal Family used to have its reunions. Car- 
riage drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of 
Frederiksborg, built by Christian IV. in 1620. 
Here is interesting historical museum (daily, 
9.30-5, 50 o.. Sun. and hisidays, 25 o). Five 
min. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf) , whence 
railway in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen. 

From Copenhagen, those persons who do not 
wish to visit Norway can go by steamer four 



DENMARK. Malmo. 507 

times daily in 1| hrs (16 M.) to Malmo 
(Kramers Hotel; Savoy), on the Swedish coast, 
and thence by rly. in sixteen hrs. (one through 
express daily; fares, 52 k. 5 o. 35 k. 65 6.) to the 
Swedish capital, Stockholm. Malmo (75,000 
inhab.) was during the Hanseatic period the 
chief commercial town on the Sound. Bothwell, 
Mary Stuart's third husband, was imprisoned 
in the ca&tle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. died 
here. On the way to Stockholm you pass 
through Lund (Grand Hotel; Jernvdgs), where 
is the finest Cathedral in Scandinavia, founded 
in the 11th century. See old University build- 
ings here; and near the Cathedral a Statue of 
Tegner, -who composed many of his poems at 
Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Lin- 
koping (Stora Hotellet) also has a noble ch., 
built 1150-1499, Notice Norrkopitig, near Stock- 
holm. 



508 NORWAY. Gothenburg. — Christiania. 



NORWAY. 

One may go from Copenhagen to Christiania 
by sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Go- 
thenburg). The fares are low, but the boats are 
small and not always clean, and the sea is very 
rough; time 36 hrs. The best way is to go by 
rail via Helsingor ('ferry 40 min.) ; time, 19 
hours. 

Gothenburg (Haglund's; Eggers; Gota KCil- 
lare; Strand) is a busy and commercial 
town of 145,000 inh., on the Gotaelf. Excellent 
harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse 
given to Gothenburg was during the continen- 
tal blockade, when it formed the depot of Eng- 
lish trade with Northern Europe The Ex- 
change, the Town Hall, the Christinakyrka, the 
Statue of Gustavus Adolphns, the Museum (open 
daily), the Slottsskog Park, with fine view, and 
the pretty garden of the Horticultural Society 
with hothouse and exotic plants near the Wall- 
graf, comprise the chief features of the town. 

Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Boulevard; 
Skandinavia) , the capital of Norway, has 230,- 
()()() inbab. Steamships from London, Holland. 
Hamburg, etc., land their passengers on the two 
quays near the Custom House (porterage from 
the steamer, 30-40 5.; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 
80 o.) Christiania is charmingly situated at the 
R end of a fjord. It was founded by (and 
named for) Christian IV in 1624. The city 
has taken on new life and greater importance 



NORWAY. Christiania. 509 

j since the establishment of Norway as an inde- 
! pendent kingdom. The University, Art Mu- 
\ seum. Observatory, and Royal Palace will 
! occupy the attention for a day. E. of the 
market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, con- 
\ secrated in 1697, restored in 1849. Near this 
; edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the 
poor classes, where economical dinners are 
cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, 
the Freemasons' Lodge, the Fortress of Aker- 
shus (many centuries old), are all within an 
easy walk of each other. The Akershus was be- 
sieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 
1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was sig- 
nally defeated a little later by the Norwegian 
naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the 
ramparts. See the Eidsvolds Plads, the pretty 
square planted with trees, E. of which is the 
Parliament Edifice. This has a handsome 
fagade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). 
The summer session ends in June. The Nation- 
al Gallery (Sun., Tues., Wed., Thurs., Fri., 
12-3, free; at other times, 4-1 k. ; contains many 
casts and over 400 pictures. The Trinity Gh., 
the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest ch. in 
Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the 
monument to Wergeland, the most famous of 
Norwegian poets, and the view from St. John's 
Hill should not be forgotten. In the University, 
founded in 1811, there are numerous collections 
of interest, especially a Viking's ship, over a 
thousand years old. It has 1,000 students, and 
a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal Palace is a 
large plain edifice, with a handsome portico, 
on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, 
the Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are 



510 NORWAY. Christiania. 

beautifully adorned. In front is an equestriar 
Statue of Charles XIV. The Historical Museum 
contains a very interesting collection of coins 
a Viking ship, etc. The Norsk Folke Museum 
in the Bygdo, a peninsular to the west of the 
city (daily, 50 o., Sunday, 25 o.) and the Art 
Industrial Museum (Tues., Wed., Fri. free, week 
days 50 o.) are the only other importamt sights 
See Oscarshall, in the Bygdo (tickets and in- 
formation free at the hotels), a castle built 
for King Oscar in 1847, with works of Swedish 
and Norwegian artists. Noble view from the 
roof. Take trolley (50 o.) to Holmenkollen- 
good restaurant and fine view. Also visit the 
Ekeberg. 

There is direct steam communication between 
Christiania and Hull, 3 days; London, 4 days- 
Havre, 4 days; Hamburg, 36 hrs.; Lubeek, 48 
hrs.; and twice a month to New York. 

Brief Excursions to Norway. 

General Notes.— On all the fjords, and along 
the coast of Norway, there are excellent steam- 
boat lines, and travel in this way is compara- 
tively cheap. The food is usually good. Beer is 
the national drink. The rigid temperance laws 
of Norway make it impossible to obtain spirits 
on the steamboats or at most of the principal 
railway restaurants. On the lakes there ' is 
usually a service 3 times a day. All Norway is 
covered with a network of excellent routes • and 
there are few more pleasant ways of travelling 
than m the post-chaise among the mountains 
and beside the fjords, if the traveller be prudent 
enough to look out for his relays of horses It 



NORWAY. Throndhjem. 511 

is only on the most frequented routes that one 
can get carriages and horses to make a long 
journey. The driver generally takes care of him- 
self and the horses for a fixed sum. Carriages 
can carry 3 or 4 persons, with baggage. The 
relay service is very well arranged, and there 
will 'be no occasion for complaint if you al- 
ways send a telegram ahead. The charges for 
the horses and carriages are by the mile, and 
are moderate. On the lakes the rowers work 
for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is 
also determined by regulation. 

Throndhjem {Britannia ; Grand; d'Angle- 
terre; Scandinavie) , the ancient Nidaros, and 
the third city in Norway, has 38,000 inhab. Here 
Norwegian kings were crowned in the Middle 
ages. Formerly the capital of the kingdom; 
and its cathedral (open daily, free, 12-1.30, 
6--7.30), the finest in the North, was once a 
great resort for pilgrims. It is built of bluish 
chlorite slate, with which the marble columns 
form an admirable contrast. In the 11th and 
12th centuries this ch. was the burial-place of 
the kings; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I., 
Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You 
may go from Christiania to Throndhjem by rail, 
but the journey is tedious, and we recommend 
the carriage route, or the steamboat voyage 
around the coast. 

From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite ex- 
cursion on the Strandefjord is the noted Fager- 
nces Hotel, a great resort for tourists. Bergen 
(Holdfs; Norge; Boulevard: Smehy) is on a 
h'lly peninsula ana isthmus, with handsome 
high mts, in the background. The town (80,000 
inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on 



512 NORWAY. Hammeesfest. 

the site of an old royal residence. Many great 
battles have been fought in its neighborhood. 
See Bergenhus, Nygaards Park, and Fishmarket 
(on Wed. and Sat., 8-10 a.m.). The Museums 
have very good collections. The best view of the 
town is from the Floifjeld, N. E. of the harbor. 
The overland route from Bergen to Molde is 
interesting for leisurely tourists. 

Another good excursion is from Christiania 
to Kongsherg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardan- 
gerfjord. and to Bergen. Still another is from 
Christiania to Vadso, along the coast. From 
Vadso. those who have time may push on to 
Hammersfest (Grand Hotel), the most northern 
city in the world. It is built along the shores 
Christiania to Vadso, along the coast. From 
Vadso, those who have time may push on to 
the neighborhood there ^'s an extensive view 
over the glaciers of Sejland and Soro. Hence 
travellers can usually see the midnight sun in 
midsummer. Those who wish to visit the North 
Cape should remember that the sole attraction 
of the journey consists in the bleakness and 
solemnity of the scenery. A steamer usually 
leaves Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving 
at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Ham- 
merfest on Saturday evening. 



SWEDEN. Stockholm. 513 



SWEDEN. 

You may go by rail direct from Christiania to 
Stockholm, in 5 hrs. to Charlottenberg on the 
Swedish frontier, thence in about 14 hrs. to 
Stockholm; ithrough express trains without 
change in 17 hrs. (fares, 43 k. 05 o., 33 k. 50 o.; 
on slow trains a little less; sleeping oars 5 k. 
and 3 k. extra). 

Stockholm (Grand Hotel; Continental; Ryd- 
herg; Kronprinsen; Kung Karl; in the old town, 
Ostergotland). Good restaurants in principal 
hotels. Good music at Blanch's Cafe, Bern's 
Salonger, and the Stromparterre every after- 
noon and evening. Population 332,000. Sea com- 
munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, 
Amsterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux, 
and Finland, by comfortable steamships and 
boats. Taximeter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 o. per 
kilometre, each additional ^ kilometre 10 o. ; 
trunk from rly. station 20 o ; fares higher after 
11 p. M. Trip to suburbs at moderate rates. 
There is an excellent electric tram-car system 
(10 5.) The capital of Sweden is situated on 
the banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into 
the Baitic Sea, and occupies two peninsulas 
and many islands, joined by handsome bridges. 
Old travellers say that Stockholm's situation is 
the most beautiful in Europe, after that of Con- 
stantinople. The city is divided into six parts: 
the Staden, or city, formed by the islands of 
Stadsholmen, Riddarholmen, and Helgeands- 
holmen, the narrowest and least agreeable 



514 SWEDEN. Stockholm. 

part of Stockholm, but the most animated, 
and the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the N. 
section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladii- 
gdrdslanclet, a quarter built in the reign of 
Queen Christina; Kungsliolmen (King's 
Island); Sodermalm, the S. faubourg; and 
^SaUsjo-oarne, coinposed of four islands. The 
oldest chroniclers give to the town the name 
which it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, 
and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores 
for the romantic legends connected with the 
origin of Stockholm. Fine views from the 
Mosebacke; from KastelJiolmen ; f/om the Ob- 
servatory; from the Toiver of Jacob's Gh.; from 
By Strom's Villa; and from the Tivoli. 

Principal Sights.— In the city (Staden) : the 
Royal Palace, — burned in 1697, rebuilt in 
1753, and restored in 1901, — one of the finest in 
Europe, and on eminence close to junction of 
lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace. 
View of the city and the innumerable bits of 
water, the majestic mountiains, forests, and 
green plains. See the N. fagade and the Gus- 
tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejons- 
hacken, a staircase ornamented with huge 
bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with 
the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze crowns, supported 
by a figure of Renown. The S., W., and E. 
facades have beautiful works cif art. The chapel, 
128 ft. long by 50 it. wide, has fine marble col- 
umns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, 
sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 
symbols, of the Evangelists, — the angel, eagle, 
lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus 
at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 
51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne 



SWEDEN. Stockholm. 515 

given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel; 
and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. 
by Bystrom. Here the king opens and closes 
the Diei in presence of the two cnambers of 
the kingdom. The interior of the palace i- 
visible all the year; small fee. See ceremonial 
halls where great festivals are held: Audience 
Chamber; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent 
candelabra, 29 ft. high; two porcelains; Red 
Room, w^here Gustavus III. slept (many marble 
statues here) ; great gallery, 162 ft. long; won- 
derful collection of sculptures; mythological 
frescos: two smaller rooms, devoted to pictures 
of battles: a second gallery and two rooms de- 
voted to allegories of Peace; Festival Hall, — 
sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly 
painted ceilings, Victoria Hall, the Hall of the 
Columns, and the present king's and queen's 
apartments:. Library very rich; Museum of 
Armour and Costumes, a good collection. 

On the great square, S. of the palace, is an 
obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the 
fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the 
war of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near 
the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the 
obelisk is the Church of St. Nicholas, .founded 
in 1260 or 1264, reconstructed 1726-43, restored 
1892; a spire 308 ft. high; interior divided into 
5 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in 
ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth 
of the Saviour; organ one of the largest in 
Sweden; immense stores of beautiful silver ves- 
sels and candelabra; remarkable funeral monu- 
ments. Opposite the palace, beyond the Slotts- 
backen, is the House of the Governor of Stock- 
Jiolm, built by Tessin, the most celebrated archi- 



516 SWEDEN. Stockholm. 

tect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the 
Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of 
Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — thf 
execution of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents 
of Christian XL, King of Denmark, who was 
seeking to extend his rule over Sweden, — took 
place. Here is the Bourse, built in 1766; fine 
halls in the first story. Near by, the German 
ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high, and the 
only chime of bells in Sweden; injured toy fire 
in 1878, but restored. Here also is the Knights' 
House (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stock- 
holm; noble staircase; walls decorated with the 
arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of 
Gustavus Vasa before this house, erected on the 
250th anniversary of the entry of that king into 
Stockholm. The courts of justice and other 
public buildings are not far away. At Skepps- 
hro, the port, are the telegraph office and the 
Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit Bank, 
is the finest modern building in the city. The 
Gothic Gh. of the Knights' Island {Riddarholms- 
KyrTca) is on Riddarholmen Island, to the 
W. of the Equestrian Palace. It belonged to a 
famous Franciscan convent founded by King 
Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. 
It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 
290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a mausoleum 
of celebrated men (local guides give descrip- 
tion). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus 
dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel 
(built 1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of 
Charles XII. Here also repose Charle=i X., 
Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. > 
open Tues. and Thurs. (also Sat. in summer), j 
12-2 p. M.; fee, 25 o. On the Riddarholm are 



SWEDEN. Stockholm. 517 

also the Royal Court of Justice, the GhamTier of 
Deputies, the Archives, and the Statue of 
Birger Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — 
380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797— to Hel- 
geandsholmen, with its pretty gardens, huge 
bazaar, and royal stables. 

In the N. section (Xorrmalm) is the Gustavus 
AdoJplius Place and statue, pedestal ornamented 
with reliefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On 
the W., Palace of the Grown Prince. Opposite 
is Royal Opera House, erected on site of theatre 
where G-ustavus III. was killed by Ankarstrom. 
E., near this square, is the Jacol)'s Gh. (1590). 
The S. portal is very rich with sculptures dating 
from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. 
To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue 
of Charles XI. To the N., the promenades called 
the King's Garden, statue of Charles XIII. 
Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the 
Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father 
of modern chemical science. E. of the Charles 
XIL Place is the Xatio7ial Museum (open daily 
except Mon., 11-3: Sun., 1-3). On the gi'ound 
floor is the Historical Museum, founded in the 
17th century, and one of the largest of its kind. 
The Hall of the Middle Ages is especially inter- 
esting. On the first floor are collections of fur- 
niture and house decorations, ceramics, and 
sculpture, the last of unusual merit. On the 
upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the 
Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, 
Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of 
painting are well represented. From the Na- 
tional Museum, an iron bridge leads to the 
Skeppshohn, an island on which are the Karl- 



518 SWEDEN. Stockholm. 

Johans Kyrka, the Naval Academy, and the 
Naval Arsenal. 

The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the 
Rodbo-Torg, or Red Shop Square. The Clara- 
Kyrka (1285; burned 1751; rebuilt 1753; re- 
stored 1893) ds very interesting. At Kungshol- 
men are many hospitals and some of the chief 
manufactories. Also the Mint, and a ch. with a 
fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal 
military school. There are many other inter- 
esting things in the city quarter (see local 
guides). The Gh. of St. John should be seen. 
In the cemetery of the latter, Von Dobeln, one 
of the heroes of the last war against the Rus- 
sians, is buried. The two principal streets of 
Stockholm are the Regents' and Queen Street, 
— in Swedish, Regeriiigsgatan and Drottning- 
gatcni. The Academy of Science, the Natural 
History Museum, the Technological Institute, 
the Mining School, and the O'bservatory are all 
in this quarter. 

In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery 
Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable 
for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library 
of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX (open 
free every weekday, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, 
or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place, with 
equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here 
also, in the Hormgatan, 43, is the house which 
Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina-Kyrlca is 
on the spot where the victims of the Battle of 
Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Sod- 
ermalm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm 
are noted for their beauty, especially during the 
wonderfully clear nights of June and July. The 
Carlberg and Drottningholm should be visited, 



SWEDEN. Upsala. 519 

and especially the Djiirgard, a beautiful park on 
an island 2 M. long. At the W. end of this 
island is the Northern Museum, a large collec- 
tion of Scandinavian curiosities. Here nearly 
every evening in summer popular dances in na- 
tional costume are given accompanied hy na- 
tional music. Xo one should fail to see them. 

Upsala {Stads-HoteUet; Svea; good restaur- 
ants), the most famous university town in Swe- 
den (25,000 inhab.), and the residence of the 
archbishop and other dignitaries. It lies on 
both banks of the Fyrisa, which is crossed by 
5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, 
and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla 
Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical 
and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythi- 
cal associations are of the greatest interest. 
Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), sit- 
uated on a picturesque height. The chief curi- 
osities are the Burial Chapel of Gustavus A^asa 
(at the back of the choir), and the tomb of 
Linuceus, the great botanist. 

N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said 
to have burst forth on the spot where the saint 
was martyred. The Ch. of the Trinity has many 
handsO'me monuments. The University was 
founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very 
striking in architecture. The library building 
is especially fine. The Library contains 330,000 
vols., and 14,000 MSS. Here is the famous tran- 
lation of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, 
dating from the second half of the 4th century. 
The House of Liniuni-s. is still shown in Upsala. 
In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the 
poet. There are 1,700 students at the University. 
Numerous charming excursions in the neighbor- 



520 SWEDEN. Gefle. 

hood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to 
Gefle by rail in 3^ hrs. (6 k. 85 o., 4 k. 60 o.). 
On the way you may see the Castle, which was 
fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where Eric XIV. 
was imprisoned during his insanity. 

We will not attempt to give other excursions 
in Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next 
to proceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. 



RUSSIA. Cronstadt. 521 



RUSSIA. 

Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from 
Stockholm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stop- 
ing at Abo, the old capital of Finland, taken 
from the Swedes in 1809 by the Russians; Hel- 
singfors, one of the strongest of naturally for- 
tified harbors; and Wyl)07'g. taken from the 
Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty 
of the hundreds of islands through which the 
steamer threads its way renders the jouniey a 
constant pleasure. The Aliland Islands are 
about 300 in number. Shortly after the steamer 
enters the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. 
Isaac's Church in St. Petersburg is distinctly 
visible. On the way up, the steamer passes 
Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval 
station. It is defended by great batteries 
hewn out of the solid rock, and has extensive 
docks. The fortifications were hegun in 1703 
by Peter the Great and have been greatly 
strengthened since. An excursion can be 
made in one day from St. Petersburg to 
Cronstadt, Oranienhaum, Petershof. StreJ7ia, and 
the Monastery of St. Sergius. Omnien'bauni is 
a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown 
from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a mag- 
nificent view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 
1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter 
the Great, contains innumerable articles of 
vertu. tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, 
portraits, especially a collection of pictures of 
feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 



522 RUSSIA. St. Peteesburgh. 

50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is 
a fountain called the Samson. There are two 
small palaces near here, of which Peter the 
Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir 
he died. The Hermitage, Alexandra, where the 
Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and Strelna, 
the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, 
are in this neighhorhood. 

St. Petersburg (Hotel cVAngJeterre; De Rus- 
sie : Demoiith's : De France; d'Europe) is the 
capital of the Russian Empire, and as the head- 
quarters of the official world and the center of 
Russian society must always possess a certain 
interest for the traveller (1,500,000 inhah.). 
The common supposition that it is not wise to 
visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a 
mistake. The Russian summer climate is ex- 
tremely soft and beautiful, and the heat is never 
•so intense as in some parts of North America, 
Of course, the social world is not so gay as in 
winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 
2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care 
about this. The city was founded by Peter the 
Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be 
called a capital with malice aforethought; for 
the energetic monarch set it down among the 
marshes through which the river Neva wanders 
towards the sea. On the islands in the chan- 
nels of the divided Neva the greater part of the 
city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, 
containing the public buildings, is on the main- 
land, on the S. bank of the Neva. St. Peters- 
burg is in many respects a magnificent city, 
although the contrasts between squalor and 
great splendor are sometimes too sharp to per- 
mit of an agreeable impression. When the town 



RUSSIA. St. Peteesburgh. 523 

was building, under Peter tlie Great, 40,000 or 
50,000 peasants were employed for years in fill- 
ing up the marshes. It was the Empress Cath- 
erine who built the splendid granite quay along 
the Neva's' 1. bank. The river has overflowed 
many times, and the inundations in the 18th 
century and in the early part of the 19th were 
very disastrous. The ordinary tourist will find 
that the difficulties concerning passports, police 
supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated. 
A passport, vised by the Russian consul in the 
American city whence you have sailed, is, how- 
ever, exacted on entering Russia, and has to 
be delivered up to the hotel proprietor for 
registration, and he hands it to you on leaving 
the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, 
the Admiralty being the principal one. From 
the Admiralty three great streets branch off. 
They are called the Yosnessensky ; the Gorok- 
hovaia, ending at the Champs de Mars; and 
the famous XevsJcy Prospect, where are the 
most elegant of the shops and many of the chs, 
and public buildings. 

The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the 
Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and 
consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church 
of St. Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter's 
at Rome, and takes its name from an image 
of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- 
cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian 
colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. 
Interior superb; shrine of chased silver, the 
gift of Cossacks who served in wars of 1813-14; 
images before wliich lamps are always kept 
burning; fiags, arms, and standards, taken in 
battle; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay 



524 RUSSIA. St. Petersburgh. 

de Tolly in front of the ch. No organ or instru- 
ment is used in the service, but great pains are 
taken to secure good voices. Remark the deep 
bass intonation. The Fortress and Cathedral of 
St. Peter and St. Paul contains in its vaults 
the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia since 
the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter 
II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of 
this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains 
the imperial Mi7it. The gilded spire is visible 
from a great distance. Hundreds of flags are 
suspended along the walls. 

The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. 
Petersburg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 
by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon 
thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly strik- 
ing from its splendid proportions. Notice the 
lavish use of polished granite, white marble, 
malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Pine view 
of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admis- 
sion by tickets procured from chief of palace 
police; fee), built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, 
stands on the r. bank of the Neva.. This is the 
imperial city residence, and this building was 
the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which 
finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. 
in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but 
the interior is richly ornamented with paint- 
ings, bronzes, marbles, and precious stones. 
Grand festival here on New Year's Day by the 
Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- 
dor's Staircase on the Neva; also the magnifi- 
cent flight of white marble steps, leading to 
the state apartments. The Throne Room is the 
finest in Europe. The White Room, St. George's 
Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallery, the Alexander 



RUSSIA. St. Petersbuegh. 525 

Hall, the Hall of Battles (in which are paint- 
ings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber^ 
the Empress's Winter Garden, and the Roman- 
off Gallery are the principal apartments. Near 
the entrance of the latter gallery is the green 
curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are 
the rules draw'n up by the Empress Catherine, 
to be enforced at her receptions at the Hermit- 
age. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown 
and scptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 
carats). See also room in which Emperor 
Nicholas died. The Hermitage (open daily ex- 
cept Fri. and holidays, 11-4), close to Winter 
Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and 
rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum con- 
tains 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them 
being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van 
Dyke, Rembrandt, and Ruysdael. There are 
also vast collections of engraved stones, and 
designs by masters. 

The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, 
the Michael and the Marl)le Palaces are not 
impressive buildings. The Russian Museum of 
Alexander III. (open daily except Mon., 10-4) 
contains good collection of modern art. The 
Admiralty is a vast edifice with fagade ^ M. 
long. Near it are the great dockyards, the head- 
quarters of the army, and the War Office. The 
Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing 
many relics of the famous monarch, is near the 
citadel. 

The Imperial Lihrary, containing 400,000 vols., 
is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries 
are those of the Academy of Science, the Her- 
mitage, and the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. 
This monastery is one of the most celebrated in 



526 RUSSIA. Moscow. 

Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in 
honor of Alexander the Great, who conquered 
the Swedes and the Livonians. The museum 
of the Academy of Science occupies a portion of 
the superb building near the Admiralty. The 
Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities 
The Romanoff Museum, that attached to the 
Mining School, that of Natural History, and the 
Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, 
kept up at the government expense, are all of 
large size. The Marien (opera and ballet) 
Alexander (Russian drama and comedy) and 
Michael (French) are the best. The monu- 
ments are nearly all good. Those most worthy 
of attention are the Equestrian Statue of Peter 
the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on 
Its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of 
Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft 
high, weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter 
Palace. The Summer Gardens, 1 M. long and i 
M. wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the 
palace in which Peter the Great occasionally 
lived. A day excursion should be made to Tsars- 
koye Selo. where the emperor resides in the 
spring and autumn. 

It is 1011 M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow 
The rly. carriages are much like those of Amer- 
ica in model. The stations are all comfortable 
refreshment saloons excellent, and fares reason- 
able. First-class express to Moscow, 24 roubles- 
second, 17 roubles. The principal town on the 
way is Tver, at the confluence of the Yvertsa 
and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity Church Here 
steamer can be taken to Nijni-Novgorod and 
thence to Astrakan. ' 

Moscow (National, Slavianski Bazaar, Chev- 



RUSSIA. Moscow. 527 

Tier, (VAngleterre) , or Holy Moscow, as the Rus- 
sians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, for- 
merly the residence of the Emperors, is situated 
on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to 
the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregu- 
larly built town in Europe, and to-day it re- 
mains original and picturesque in a striking 
degree. A good view may be had from Sparroio 
Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In the centre 
of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M. in 
circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenaAs, 
and museums. Here the Tartar architecture 
predominates. An excellent preparation for vis- 
iting the Kremlin is the perusal of Theophile 
Gautier's lively and sparkling book on a "Winter 
in Russia." The Redeemer's Gate and the Gate 
of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration 
among Russians. Visitors must uncover their 
heads on passing through the Redeemer's Gate. 
The present Kremlin Palace is modern, the old 
Kremlin having been destroyed in 1812. Most 
of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nich- 
las L the erection of the present one is due. 
The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- 
ander Nevsky, and Sts. Andreiu and Catherine, 
and the Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, 
which contains a collection of the portraits of 
the czars, and from the terrace of which Napo- 
leon I. looked down upon Moscow when he came 
there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin's 
chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Redeemer 
are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathed- 
ral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, 
founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many 
sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors 
of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the 



528 RUSSIA. NiJNi-NovGOROD. 

Archangel Michael contains many tombs of 
sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is 
where the czars are baptized; is rich with 
relics. The jewels in all Russian chs. are worth 
studying. House of the Synod, Treasury (open 
free week days ex. Sat., permit at the chamber- 
lain's office), and Arsenal will furnish plenty 
of occupation for a day. The Tower of Ivan 
Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 
ft. high contains 34 'bells, the largest of which 
weighs 64 tons. When ^11 these bells are rung 
together at Easter the effect is wonderful. 
At the foot of this tower is the vast Tsar Ko- 
lokol, or monarch of Bells. It once hung in a 
tower (burned in 1737); weighs 444,000 lbs.; 
and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value 
of the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. 
Outside the Kremlin is the Chinese town, so 
called, founded by Helena. Here are the Cathed- 
ral of St. Basil, built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the 
Romanoff Palace, the Iherian Gate and Chapel, 
the University (900 students), the great Biding 
School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in 
Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The 
pigeon being looked upon as sacred by the Rus- 
sians, thousands of these birds are to be seen 
in the streets of Moscow. S. of Moscow is a 
beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. 
The Tretyakoff Gallery of modern Russian art 
(open daily ex. Mon., 10-4, free) is worth a 
visit. 

It is 271J M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. 
Tourists pressed for time can take night train 
there, spend the day at Nijni, and return the 
next night. 

Nijni-Novgorod {de Russie; Egoroff's) a city 



RUSSIA. Odessa. 529 

of 75,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, 
held annually in July and Aug., and attended by 
200,000 people. Here the inhabitants of the bar- 
baric East come into close contact with the 
Western merchants and visitors. The town is 
at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. 
The Kreinlm is on a bank overhanging the 
Volga. The transactions at the fair amount 
annually to $80,000,000. 

From Moscow to Odessa (40 J hrs.; fare 32 r. 
1st class, 20 r. 2d class) the route passes through 
Kieff. 

Odessa {Be Londres; Be St. Petersboiirg) was 
founded in Catherine II. 's reign. It is an im- 
portant commercial port, with 250,000 inhab.; 
but there is little of interest to the traveller 
except the Cathedral, a small museum, a bronze 
statue of Richelieu, and the University. Steam- 
ers (poor) leave Odessa twice a week for the 
Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of the 
Crimean war may easily be visited. There is 
also steam communication with Constantinople. 



TABLE OF CLIMATIC HEALTH REPORTS, 
MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND 
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Times and railway fares are calculated from 
Paris. 

Aachen or Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs. from Paris, 
fare, 48 fr.). — Sulphurous alkaline waters, 
107° to 120° F. For skin diseases, rheumatism, 
chronic diseases of the nervous centres, neural- 
gias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. 

Aix-les-Bains (14i hrs.; 71 fr. 60c.).— Sul- 
phurous hot springs, 112° to 114° F.. Have a 
world-wide reputation in cases of rheumatism 
and gout; also chronic catarrh of the neck of 
the womb, amenorrhea, metritis, syphilis, 
bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pha- 
ryngitis. April to Nov., and all the year. 

Amelie-les-Bains (24^ hrs.; 120i fr.)— Sul- 
phurous sodic waters, 71° to 72° F., and winter 
station. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal affec- 
tions. All the year. 

Arcachon (10 hrs.; 78 fr. 70 c.).— Winter 
station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring 
a sedative air; for delicate, lymphatic, and 
anemic persons; nervous complaints; chest 
and lung affections; scrofula; gout. \Vinter 
season, from Nov. till June; summer, from May 
till Oct. 

Baden (27 hrs.; 152^ fr.).— Sulphurous 
waters, 82° to 95° F. For rheumatism, gout 
anemia, and scrofula (especially of a chronic 
character.) May to Oct., and all the year. 



MINERAL WATERS 581 

Baden-Baden (16 hrs.; 68 fr.) — Alkaline- 
chloride of sodium waters, 110° to 150° F. Uric 
acid diathesis, gout, and kindred complaints; 
ailments dependent on malaria, and certain 
skin diseases; chronic rheumatism; scrofula, 
syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain kidney affec- 
tions, anemia. May to Oct., and all the year. 

Bagneres-de-Bigorre (22 hrs.; 105 fr.).— 
Saline, sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical 
waters, 72° to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affec- 
tions of the respiratory organs, intestines, and 
urinary system, anemia, and female disorders. 
June to Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter sta- 
tion. 

Bagnoles (19 hrs.; 67 fr. 65 c.). — Saline, sul- 
phurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 
66 °F. For diseases of the digestive organs and 
skin, rheumatism, scrofula, chlorosis, congestion 
cf the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. 

Bareges (21^ hrs.; 113 fr.).— Alkaline-saline- 
sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, 
diseases of the bones, herpes, and syphilis. June 
15 to Sept. 15. 

Biarritz (19* hrs.; 96 fr. 80 c.).— Sea-bathing 
and winter station. For chlorosis, anemia, chest 
and lung complaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. 
Aug. to May. 

Bourbon-rArchambault (6i hrs.; 40 fr. 75 c). 
— Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F.; and 
bicarbonate ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° 
to 160° F., highly gaseous. For scrofula, rheu- 
matism, paralysis, nervous affections. 

Bourboule (La) (13^ hrs.; 60 fr.).— Effer- 
vescent saline arsenical waters (28 millgr. arse- 
nate of soda per litre), 140° F. For anemia, 
lymphatism, general debility, affections of the 



532 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, and 
intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. 

Brides-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 75 fr. 35c.). — Calcic 
and laxative waters, resembling those of Carls- 
bad. For liver troubles resulting from intemp- 
erance in food and drink, gallstones, diabetes, 
some forms of anemia, and the debility follow- 
ing prolonged residence in the tropics. 

Cannes (20* hrs.; 130 fr.).— Winter station 
of first importance; climate tonic and stimu- 
lating near the sea; sedative towards Le Cannet. 
Sea baths in spring; season Oct. to May. For 
nervous debility, anemia, phthisis, laryngitis, 
pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and 
diabetes. 

Carlsbad (32 hrs.; 137 fr.) — Alkaline aperient 
waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation,hepatic 
disorders, abdominal plethora, obesity, gout, 
gravel, etc. 

Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous 
manganese waters, 45° F.; climate station. For 
debility of the male and female sexual organs, 
sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due 
to overwork. June to Sept. 

Castellamare di Stabia (50* hrs.; 248 fr.).— 
Sea baths; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and 
sulphurous chalybeate waters. For obstructions 
of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesen- 
teric glands, biliary and vesical calculi, jaun- 
dice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, 
herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hpyo- 
chondriasis, urinary calculi, vesical catarrh, 
scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, 
leucorrhea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing. May 
to Oct.; winter season, Oct. to April. 

Cauterets (12 J hrs.; Ill fr. 90 c.).— Sulphate 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 533. 

of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of 
the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine 
affections, scrofula. 

Contrexeville (10 hrs.; ollfr.). — Effervescent 
alkaline, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. 
Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical cal- 
culi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty 
rheumatism, disorders of the urinary system, 
affections of the uterus, hepatic complaints. 
May 20 to Sept. 

Dax (15 hrs.; 90 fr. 80 c.).— Hyperthermal 
mixed sulphurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For 
articular, muscular, or rheumatic affections, 
gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. 

Dieppe (4 hrs.; 20 fr. 65c.). — Much-frequent- 
ed sea-bathing and summer resort. 

Divonne-les-Bains (15i hrs.; 81 fr.).— Cold 
water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. 
For chronic rheumatic arthritis, lumbago, pleu- 
rodynia, gout, sciatica, neuralgia, hypochon- 
dria, neuroses, gastralgia. bronchial catarrh, 
dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorr- 
hoids, paralysis, chronic affections of the spinal 
cord, scrofula, and female disorders. 

Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs.; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous 
saline anl alkaline waters, 90° F. For angina 
pectoris, larjmgitis, bronchitis, chronic catarrh, 
asthma, chronic pleuritis, anemia, lymphatism, 
and scrofula. June to Sept. 

Ems (16i hrs.; 71 fr. 15 c.). — Saline alkaline 
and saline earthy, 65° to 110° F. Used in af- 
fections of the lungs and chest, and nervous 
diseases. May to Oct. 

Enghien (20 min.; 1 fr. 35 c.). — Cold sulphu- 
rous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of 
respiratory organs, herpes, and rheumatism. 



534 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min.; 28 fr.). — A now much 
frequented resort for sea-bathing in summer. 

Evian-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 82 fr. 80c.).— Al- 
kaline waters, and climatic air station. For 
affections of the urinary and digestive organs, 
the liver and biliary apparatus. 

Geneva (14 hrs.; 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers 
from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after 
their cure. 

Gobersdorf (39 hrs.; 167* fr.).— Noted for its 
mountain-air cure, in affection of the respiratory 
organs. Anemia and chlorosis are also treated. 

Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter 
station; Oct. to June. Chest and lung com- 
plaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anemia, 
chlorosis. 

Homburg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 man.; 86 fr. 
69 c.). — ^Saline, ferruginous, and acidulous 
waters. For dyspepsia, scrofula, and anemia. 

Hyeres (20 hrs.; 117 fr.). — Winter season, 
Nov. to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For 
diseases o-f the larynx, chest, and lungs, scrofula, 
diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. 

Interlaken (18 hrs.; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic 
station in summer, visited for its beautiful en- 
virons. Whey cure. 

Ischia (50^ hrs.; 288 J fr.) — Alkaline-saline 
waters, 145° F. For uterine affections, rheuma- 
tism, diseases of the bones, ulcers, goilt, and 
paralysis. Spring and autumn. 

Ischl (2.3f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c.).— A climatic 
summer station; May to Oct. Saline and cold 
sulphurous waters; whey cure; saline, steam, 
hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths; mud, 
malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths; inhalation. 
Recommended for nervous affection. 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 535 

Karlsbad. — See Carlsbad. 

Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min.; 106 fr.).— Cold 
saline waters, strongly mineralized; tonic and 
excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and 
hemorrhoidal congestions. 

Kreuznach (131 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodura- 
ted saline waters. For scrofulous affections, 
diseases of the ears, respiratory organs, bones, 
and joints, female and skin diseases, and 
chronic affections generally. May to Oct. 

Lausanne (15* hrs.; 64 fr. 20 c.).— Climatic 
station in summer and autumn; bracing air and 
grape cure. 

Loeche-les-Bains (30 hrs.; 100 fr.). — Various 
springs; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. 
For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, 
rheumatism, chronic IJronchitis, inveterate syph- 
ilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. 

Luchon (19i hrs.; 103^ fr.).— Upwards of 
fifty different springs, ferruginous, sulphurous, 
and alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bron- 
chial and skin diseases, and chronic ulcers. June 
to Sept. 

Luxeuil (11^ hrs.; 60 fr.). — Saline ferrugi- 
nous, and magnesian waters; eleven springs, 
70° to 12.5° F. They are first excitant, then se- 
dative; and good in cases of neuralgia, rheuma- 
tism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. 

Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bord- 
eaux, or Lisbon; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). 
— Highly recommended for pulmonary com- 
plaints; climate delightful; no winter. 

Mentone (24^ hrs.; 139 fr.). — Winter station 
of first importance, and sea baths. For all 
forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic 
complaints, and debility. Winter season, No- 
vember to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. 



536 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

Monaco (24^ hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the 
favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One 
of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. 
Sea haths; May to Oct. 

Mont-Dore (11 hrs.; 64i fr,). — Bicarbonate, 
arsenical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 
107° to 115° F. For all forms of diseases of 
the respiratory tract; ophthalmia, rheumatic 
and nervous affections, disorders of uterus and 
skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. 

Naples (48 hrs.; 223 fr. 85c.).— The great va- 
riety of mineral waters and their therapeutic 
properties have rendered this delightful city 
and its environs the most frequented bathing 
station in Italy. Sea baths. 

Nauheim (20 hrs.; 90 Jr.). — Saline, carbonat- 
ed waters. Visited especially by patients with 
cardiac disease for the relief of which baths in 
effervescent water, followed by passive exer- 
cises, are employed. 

Nice (22 hrs. 134 fr. 20 c.).— Winter station 
of first importance. For chronic diseases of the 
chest, lungs, and respiratory organs; affections 
of the larynx, liver complaints, disorders of the 
spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheumatism, paral- 
ysis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June; 
sea-bathing season. May to Oct.; principal sea- 
son, Jan. to March. 

Ostend (14 hrs.; 38 fr. 40c.).— Sea baths. 
Sandy beach and bracing climate. Season, June 
1 to Oct. 1. 

Palermo (66| hrs.; 299i fr.).— Winter sta- 
tion; sea baths. Season Nov. to April; bathing 
season. May to Oct. 

Pau (17* hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of 
first importance. For chest complaints, con- 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 537 

sumption, asthma, broncliitis, rheumatism, 
neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to 
May 31. 

Pierrefonds (2 J hrs.; 12 fr.).— One cold sul- 
phate of lime spring; one ferruginous and arse- 
nical. Pulmonary catarrh. 

Plombieres (H hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs 
range from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, pa- 
ralysis, herpes, nervous debilty, hysteria. 

Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicar- 
bonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections 
of the digestive organs. 

Preste (La). (23f hrs.; 145 fr.).— Very effica- 
cious waters in diseases of the urinary organs, 
gravel. 90° to 105° P. 

Piillna. — No treatment at Piillna itself; the 
waters are exported, and considered excellent as 
preservatives and remedies against diseases of 
the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, 
liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders, 
obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gas- 
tritis. 

Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30 c). — Chalybeate 
springs of importance and much renown; effer- 
vescent saline waters, brine baths, inhalations, 
For female complaints, especially anemia, chlo- 
rosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal ca- 
tarrhs, obesity, affection of spleen and liver. 
Season, May 15 to Oct. 1. 

Recoaro (34f hrs.; 139^ fr.).— Alkaline, aci- 
dulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic 
and nervous debility, female diseases, obesity, 
anemia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, 
congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- 
orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May 
to Sept. 



538 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

Rome (49* hrs.; 201 fr. 90 c. ) .—Winter sta- 
tion of first importance. For debility and scro- 
fula in children, chronic catarrh of the bronchi, 
emphysema. The climate is sedative to the 
nerves and respiratory organs; but patients 
should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May. 

Rorschach. — Climatic station in summer; 
baths in the lake; Turkish baths; very pure and 
equable atmosphere. 

Royat (9i hrs.; 51f fr.), — Four springs: 
mixed alkaline, gaseous ferruginous and slightly 
arsenical and lithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For 
lymphatic affections, anemia, chlorosis, catar- 
rhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin diseases 
dependent on a gouty diathesis. 

St. Galmier.— Alkaline table waters, used in 
France. 

St. Moritz (34 hrs.; 130 fr. 60 c.).— Climatic 
mountain-air station. Two ferruginous springs, 
very cold and very effervescing. For phthisis. 

St. Raphael (19* hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.).— Winter 
station and sea baths; summer. May 1 to Nov. 1; 
winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, 
rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest 
and lung complaints, diabetes, rheumatism,- 
gout, emphysema, anema, and chlorosis. 

San Remo. — Winter station of first import- 
ance; latent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stoma- 
chic, and intestinal catarrh, emphysema, pharyn- 
gitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exudations, incipient 
phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease, diabetes, 
and general debility. Nov. to May. 

Saxon (18 hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c.). — Bromo-iodu- 
rated saline waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scro- 
fula, and gout. 

Scheveningen (15^ hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c.).— Very 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 539 

well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; 
beach of fine sands. 

Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.) .—Sulphurous 
waters, rich in sulphureted hydrogen and car- 
bonic acid, also in chloride of sodium and salts 
of lime, 9.5° F. For chronic skin diseases, 
eczema, . acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic 
catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, rheu- 
matism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism; May to 
Oct. 

Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min.; 81f fr.).— 
Nine springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual 
difficulties. in delicate women; general debility 
in children, women, and aged persons; gout, 
partial paralysis. May 1 to Oct. 1. 

Schwalbach (20 hrs.; 83 fr. 5c.).— Chaly- 
beate waters. For all female complaints, ane- 
mia, chlorosis, nervous affections, debility of 
muscles arid mucous membranes, especially 
catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May 
to Oct. 

Spa (8^ hrs.; 44f fr.). — Highly effervescent 
ferruginous and acidulous waters. For anemia, 
chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastral- 
gia, sterility, difficult menstruation, liver com- 
plaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous 
catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. 

Spezzia (28 hrs.; 130 fr. 40 c. j .—Winter air- 
cure and summer sea-bathing resort. 

Teplitz-Schonau (32 hrs.; 145* fr.) .—Alkali- 
saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, 
gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal 
complaints, scrofulous tumors and ulcers, frac- 
tures, ankylosis, &c. May to Nov. 

Trouville (6 hr^..; 28 fr. tSc.;. — Fashionable 



540 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS. 

and much-irequented summer station; sea baths, 
sandy beach. 

Uriage (14 2/3 hrs.; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphur- 
ous waters, 81° P. For scrofula, chronic affec- 
tions, diseases of the eyelids, granular pharyn- 
gitis, etc. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. 

Valencia. — Spanish winter resort, sea baths, 
sandy beach. 

Vals (17^ nrs.; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, 
light, medium, and strong; principally used as 
table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, 
and disorders of the spleen. 

Venice (36 hrs.; 154 fr.)— Sea^ baths and 
winter station; sedative climate, somewhat like 
that of Pau. 

Vevey (16^ hrs.; 86^ fr.) — Air-cure station 
much frequented on account of the mildness 
of its temperature. 

Vichy (8^ hrs.; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda 
alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, 
hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of 
the urinary organs, diabetes. 

Voslau (27f hrs.; 156 fr. 95c.).— A favorite 
climatic resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 
30; grape cure, Sept. to Oct. 

Wiesbaden (15 hrs.; 86 fr. 45 c). — The waters 
are excitant, resolvent reconstituent, and laxa- 
tive, 30° to 165° F. For scrofula, rheumatism, 
paralysis, and impaired digestion. 

Zurich (18 hrs.; 85 fr. 10 c). — Earthy alka- 
line waters. 



DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF TBE 
UNITED STATES 

*IN THE 

PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES 



Vienna 

Budapest 
Prague . 
Trieste . 
Carlsbad 



Brussels 

Antwerp 
Crhent . 
Liege . 



Copenhage: 



Paris 



Austria=Hungary 

. Ambassador, Richard C. Kereks 
Consul- General, Charles Denby 
Consul- General, Paul Nash. 

Consul, Joseph I. Brittain. 
R. J. Totten. 
" Will L. Lowrie. 

Belgium 

. Minister, Larz Anderson. 
Consul-General, Ethelbert Watts. 
H. W. Diederich. 
Consul, Henry A. Johnson. 
" A. Heingartner. 

Denmark 

. Minister, Maurice F. Egan. 
Consul, E. D. Winslow. 
. Vice-Consul, Victor Juhler. 

France 

. Ambassador, ^Myrox T. Herrick. 
Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard. 
Consul-General, Frank II. Mason. 



542 DIPLOMATIC & CONSULAR AGENTS 



Algiers. 


Coiisul, 


Dean B. Mason. 


Calais . 


" 


James B. Milner. 


Gran . 


Agent, 


Albert H. Elford. 


Bordeaux 


Consul, 


Alfred K. Moe. 


Boulogne 


Age7ht, 


William Whitman. 


Havre . 


C07lSUl, 


James E. Dunning 


Brest . 


Agent, 


A. Pitel. 


Cherbourg 




August Lanice. 


Cognac 


, Consul, 


Ggorge H. Jackson. 


Limoges 


" 


Eugene L. Belisle. 


Lyon . 


" 


Carl B. Hurst. 


Marseille 


. Consnl-Gen. 


Alphonse Gaulin. 


Toulon 


Agent, 


Francis M. Mansfield. 


Nantes . 


Consul, 


Louis Goldschmidt. 


Nice . 


" 


William D. Hunter. 


Rheims 


Consul, 


William Bardel. 


Rouen . 




Charles A. Holder. 


Dieppe . 


. Agent, 


W. Palmer-Samborne 



Germany 



Berlin . . Ambassador, 
' ' . Sec. of Embassy, 
' ' . Consul- General, 

Aix-la-Chapelle . Consul, 

Bremen . . " 

Brunswick . . " 

Cologne 

Dresden 

Frankfort, 

Hamburg 

Leipsic 

Mannheim 

Munich . 

Nuremberg 

Stuttgart 



Consul-General, 
Consul-General, 

Consul, 

Consul-General, 
Consult, 



J. G. A. Leishman. 
Irwin B. Laughlin. 
Alex. M. Thackara. 
Pendleton King. 
William T. Fee. 
Talbot J. Albert. 
Hiram J. Dunlap. 
T. St. John Gaffney. 
Frank D. Hill. 
Robert P. SIdnner. 
Albert R, Morawetz. 
Samuel H. Shank. 
Thomas W. Peters. 
George N. Ifft. 
Edward Higgins. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



543 



Great Britain 



London 


Ambassador, 


'• . Co7isul- General, 


Liverpool 


. Consul, 


Belfast . 




Birminghain 


" 


Kidderminste 


r . Agent, 


Bradford 


. Consul, 


Bristol 


'• 


CardifE . 


" 


Cork . 


" 


Dublin 


" 


Dundee 




Gibraltar 


- . Consul, 


Glasgow 


" 


Hull . 




Leeds . 


" 


Malta . 


" 


Manchester 


" 


Xewcastle 


" 


Xottinghara . 


" 


Plymouth 


" 


Sheffield 


'> 


Southampton 


" 



Walter H. Page. 
John L. Griffiths. 
Horace L. Washington. 
Hunter Sharp. 
Albert Halstead 
James Morton. 
Augustus E. Ingram. 
Homer M. Byington. 
Lorin A. Lathrop. 
Geo. E, Chamberlm. 
Edward L. Adams. 
E. H, Dennison. 
, Richard L. Sprague. 
John X. McCunn. 
Walter C. Haram. 
Benjamin F. Chase. 
James 0. Laing. 
Church Howe. 
George B. Kill master, 
Samuel M. Taylor. 
Joseph G. Stephens. 
Charles N. Daniels. 
Albert W. Swalm. 



Greece 

Athens . . . Minister, George H. Moses. 

" . Co7isul- General, William H. Gale. 
Patras . . . Consul, Arthur B. Cooke. 



Holland 

The Hague . . Jlinisfer, Lloyd Bryce. 
Amsterdam . . Consul, Frank W. Mahin. 
Rotterdam Cousnl- General, Soren Jjistoe. 
Flushing . . Agent, Pieter F . Auer. 



544 DIPLOMATIC & CONSULAR AGENTS 



Italy 

Rome . . Ambassador, Thomas J. O'Brien. 
" . Sec. of Embassy, Charles S. Wilson. 



Florence 


" Leo J, Keena. 


Genoa . 


Consul-General, James A. Smith. 


Leghorn 


Consul, Frank Deedmeyer. 


Milan . 


" Charles M. Caughy. 


Naples . 


" Wm. W. ILandley. 


Palermo 


" Hernando de Soto. 


Venice . 


' ' James Verner Long. 




Norway 


Christiania 


Minister, Laurits S. Swensox 




Consitl- General, Henry Bordewich. 


Bergen . 


Consul, B. M. Rasmiisen. 




Portugal 


Lisbon . 


. 3Iinister, Edwin V. Morgan. 


• « 


Consul-General, Louis H. Avrae. 


Oi)orto . 


.l^e?;/", William H.^Stuve. 




Roumania 


Bucharest 


Minister, John B. Jackson. 



'' Consul-General, Roland B. Harvey. 

Russia 

St. Petersburg Ambassador, Curtis Guild. 

" Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler. 

" . . Consul, Jacob E. Conner. 

Consul-General, John H. Snodgrass. 
Consul, 



Moscow 
Batum . 
Odessa . 
Riga 

Vladivostok 
Warsaw 



John H. Grout. 
W^illiam P. Doty. 
John F. Jewell.' 
Thomas E. Heenan. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



545 



Madrid 

Barcelona 
Alicante 
Seville . 
Malaga 
Valencia 
Cadiz . 
Jerez de la 
Teneriffe 



Agent. 
Frontera Cojisid, 



Stockholm 
Gothenburg 



Berne . 

Basle . 
Geneva . 
St. Gall 
Zurich . 



Spain 

. Minister, Henry Clay Ide. 
Consul, Charles L. Hoover. 
Consul-General, Henry H. Morgan. 
Agent, Henry W. Carey. 
Consul, Charles S Winans. 
" Edward J. Xorton. 
" Robert Frazer, Jr. 
James Sanderson. 
Percival Gassett. 
" William W. Kitchen » 

Sweden 

. . , Minister, Charles H. Graves. 
Consul-General, Ernest L. Harris. 
Consul, Stuart J. Fuller. 

Switzerland 

Minister, Hexry S, Boutell. 
Consul, George Heimrod. 
" George Gifforcl. 
" Francis B. Keene. 
'• Dominic I. Murhy. 
Consul-Geyieral, Robert E. Manseld. 

Turkey and Dominions 



Constantinople Ambassad 
' ' Sec. of Eml). 



Aleppo 

Alexandria 

Bagdad 

Beirut 

Cairo . 

Jerusalem 

Smyrna 



Consul-Gen., 
Consul, 



W. W. ROCKHILL. 

Hoffman Philip. 
Gabriel Bie RavndaL 
Jesse B. Jackson. 
" David R. Birch. 
•' Emil Sauer. 
Consul-General, W. Stanley Hollis. 
'* •' Peter Augustus Jay. 

Consul, "William Coffin. 
Consul-General, George Horton. 



A SHORT VOCABULARY 



One. 

Two. 

Three. 

Four. 

Five. 

Six. 

Seven. 

Eight. 

Nine. 

Ten. 

Eleven. 

Twelve. 

Thirteen. 

Fourteen. 

Fifteen. 

Sixteen. 

Seventeen. 

Eighteen. 

Nineteen. 

Twenty. 

Twenty-one. 

Twenty-two. 

Twenty-three, etc. 

Thirty. 

Thirty-one. 

Thirty-two, etc. 

Forty. 

Fifty. 

Sixty. 

Seventy. 



IN ENGLISH, FRENCH 



Un. 

Deux. 

Trois. 

Quatre. 

Cinq. 

Six. 

Sept. 

Huit. 

Neuf. 

Dix. 

Onze. 

Douze. 

Treize. 

Quatorze. 

Quinze. 

Seize. 

Dix-sept. 

Dix-huit. 

Dix-neuf. 

Vingt. 

Vingt et un. 

Vingt-deux, 

Vingt-trois, etc. 

Trente. 

Trenteet un. 

Trente-deux, etc. 

Quarante. 

Cinquante. 

Soixante. 

Soixante-dix. 



OF WORDS AND PHRASES 
GERMAN AND ITALIAN 



Eins. 

Zwei. 

Drei. 

Vier, 

Fiinf. 

Sechs. 

Sieben. 

Acht. 

Neun. 

Zehn. 

Elf. 

Zwolf. 

Dreizehn. 

Vierzehn. 

Fiinfzehn. 

Sechzehn. 

Siebzehn. 

Achtzebn. 

Neunzebn. 

Zwanzig. 

Einundzwanzig. 

Zweiundzwanzig. 

Dreiundzwanzig. etc. 

Dreissig. 

Einiinddreissig. 

Zweiiinddreissig, etc. 

Vierzig. 

Fiinfzig. 

Secbzig. 

Siebzig. 



Uno. 

Due. 

Tre. 

Quattro. 

Cinque. 

Sei. 

Sette. 

Otto. 

Nove. 

Dieci. 

Undici. 

Dodici. 

Tredici. 

Quattordici. 

Quindici. 

Sedici. 

Diecisette ; diciasette. 

Dieciotto ; diciotto, 

Diecinove ; diciannove. 

Venti. 

Vent' uno. 

Venti due. 

Venti tre, etc. 

Trenta. 

Trent' uno. 

Trenta due, etc. 

Quaranta. 

Cinquanta. 

Sessanta. 

Settanta. 



548 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Eighty. 
Ninety. 
A hundred. 
Two hundred, etc. 
A thousand. 
Eleven hundred. 
Twelve hundred. 
Two thousand. 
A million. 
The first. 
The second. 
The third. 
The fourth. 
The fifth. 
The sixth. 
The seventh. 
The eighth. 
The ninth. 
The tenth. 
The eleventh. 

The last. 

The last but one. 

Once. 

Twice. 

The half. 

The third. 

The fourth. 

The fifth. 

The sixth, etc. 

A river. 

A fountain. 

A waterfall. 

The gate. 

An hour. 

Half an hour. 



Quatre-vingt. 
Quatre-vingt-dix. 
Cent. 

Deux cents, etc. 
Mille. 

Onze cents. 
Douze cents. 
Deux mille, etc. 
Un million. 
Le premier. 
Le second. 
Le troisieme. 
Le quatrieme. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme. 
Le septi^me. 
Le huitieme. 
Le neuvifeme. 
Le dixieme. 
Le onzieme. 

Le dernier. 
L'avant-dernier. 
Une fois. 
Deux fois. 
La moitie. Demi. 
Le tiers. 
Le quart. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme, etc. 
Une riviere. 
Une fontaine. 
Une cascade. 
La porte. 
Une heure. 
Une demi-heure. 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 



549 



Achtzig. 
Neunzig. 
Hundert, 

Zweihundert, etc. 
Tanseiid. 
Elfhundert. 
Zwolfliundert. 
Zwei Tausend, etc. 
Eine Million. 
Der Erste. 
Der Zweite. 
Der Dritte. 
Der Vierte. 
Der Fiinfte. 
Der Sechste. 
Der Siebente. 
Der Acbte. 
Der Neunte. 
Der Zebnte. 
Der Elfte. 

Der Letzte. 

Der Vorletzte. 

Einmal. 

Zweimal. 

Die Halfte. Ha lb. 

Das Drittel. 

Das Viertel. 

Das Ftinftel. 

Das Secbstel, etc. 

Ein Fluss. 

Ein Brunneu. 

Ein Wasserfall. 

Das Tbor. 

Eine Stunde. 

Eine halbe Stunde. 



Ottanta. 

Novanta. 

Cento. 

Duecento ; dugento ; etc. 

Mille. 

Mille cento. 

Mille dugento. 

Due mila, etc. . 

Un milione. 

IL primo. 

II secondo. 

II terzo. 

II quarto. 

II quinto. 

II sesto. 

II settimo. 

L' ottavo. 

II nono. 

ILdecimo. 

L'undecimo ; decimo 

primo. 
L' ultimo. 
II penultimo. 
Una volta. 
Due volte. 
La meta. Mezzo. 
II terzo. 
II quarto. 
II quinto. 
II sesto, etc. 
Un fiume. 

Una fontana ; una f onte. 
Una cascata. 
La porto. 
Un' ora. 
Una niezz' ora. 



550 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH. 



A quarter of an hour. 

Sunday. 

Monday. 

Tuesday. 

Wednesday. 

Thursday. 

Friday. 

Saturday. 

A holiday. 

The walls of the town. 

A monument. 

The tower. 

A church. 

The cathedral, minster. 

A convent. 

A chapel. 

A palace. 

The town-hall. 

The castle. 

The theatre. 

The custom-house. 

The post-office. 

The library. 

The university. 

The exchange. 

The bank. 

A square. 

A bridge. 

A shop. 

A bookseller's shop. 

A coffee-house. 

An inn ; a hotel. 

A restaurant. 



Un quart d'heure. 

Dimanche. 

Lundi. 

Mardi. 

Mercredi. 

Jeudi. 

Vendredi. 

Samedi. 

Un jour de f§te. 

Les murs de la ville. 

Un monument. 

La tour. 

Une eglise. 

La cathedrale. 

Un convent 

Une chai^elle. 

Un palais. 

L'hotel de ville. 

Le chateau. 

Le theatre. 

La douane. 

L-e bureau des postes. 

La bibliotheque. 

L'universit^. 

La bourse. 

La banque. 

Une place. 

Un pont. 

Une boutique. 

Une librairie. 

Un cafe. 

Une auberge ; un hotel 

Un restaurant. 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 551 



Eine viertel Stunde. 
S'onntag. 
Montag. 
Dienstag. 
Mittwoch. 
Donnerstag. 
Freitag. 

Samstag; Sonnabend. 
Ein Feiertag; ein Fes- 
tag. 
Die Stadtmauern. 
Ein Denkmal. 
Der Tburm. 
Eine Kirche. 
Das Miinster ; der Dom. 
Ein Kloster. 
Eine Kapelle. 
Ein Palast. 
Das Rathhaus. 
Das Schloss. 
Das Schauspielhaus. 
Das Zollhaus. 
Die Post. 
Die Bibliothek. 

Die Universitat. 

Die Borse. 

Die Bank. 

Ein Platz. 

Eine Brticke. 

Ein Kaufladen. 

Ein Bnchladen. 

Ein Kaffebaus. 

EinGastbans; einGast- 

hof. 
Ein Speisebaus. 



Un quarto d' ora. 

Domenica. 

Lunedi. 

Martedi. 

Mercoledi. 

Giovedi. 

Yenerdi. 

Sabbato. 

Un giorno di festa. 

Le mura della citta. 

Un monumento. 

La torre. 

Una cbiesa. 

La cattedrale. 

Un convento. 

Una cappella. 

Un palazzo. 

La casa della citta. 

II eastello. 

II teatro. 

La dogana. 

L' uffizio delle poste. 

La biblioteca ; la li- 

breria. 
L' universita. 
La borsa. 
La banca. 
Una piazza, 
Un ponte. 
Una bottega. 
Una libreria. 
Un caffe. 
Un' albergo ; una lo- 

canda. 
Una trattoria. 



552 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Afurnisbed room. 

Breakfast. 

Luncheon. 

Soup. 

Roast-beef. 

-Beefsteak. 

Veal. 

Mutton. 

Pork. 

Fish. 

Eggs. h 

Cake. 

Butter. 

Cheese. 

Beer. 

Port. 

Sherry. 

Ices. 

A. railway. 

An express train. 

That is true. 

I believe so. 

It is late. 

I am fatigued. 

I am thirsty; I am 

hungry. 
It is time to set off. 
That is not true. 
I did not understand. 
Who is it? 

What are j^ou doing? 
What do you want? 
Where are you? 
Where is he? 
What is he doing? 



Une chambre garnie. 
Le dejeiiner. 
Une collation. 

La soupe. 

Du boeuf roti, rosbif 
Beef-steak. 
Du veau. 
Du mouton. 
Du pore. 
Le poisson. 
Des oeufs. 
Le gateau. 
Le beurre. 
Le f romage. 
La biere. 
Levin d'Oporto. 
•Le vin de Xeres. 
Les glaces. 
Un chemiu de fer. 
Un train de vitesse. 
C'est vrai. 
Je le crois. 
II est tard. 
Je suis fatigue. 
J'ai soif ; j'ai faim. 

II est temps de partir. 
Cela n'est pas vrai. 
Je n'avais pas comprls. 
Qui est-ce? 
Quefaites-vous? 
Que voulez-vous? 
Oil etes-vous ? 
Ouesf-il? 
Que fait-il? 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 553 



Ein moblirtes Zimmer. 

Das Friihstiick. 

Der Imbiss, das gabel- 
frtibstuck. 

Die Supi)e. 

Ocbsenbraten. 

Beefsteak, biftek. 

Kalbfleiscb. 

Hammelfleiscb. 

Schweinefleiscb. 

Der Fiscb. 

Eier. 

Der Kucben, 

Die Butter. 

Der Kiise. 

Das Bier. 

Der Portwein. 

Xereswein. 

Das Eis. 

Eine Eisenbabn. 

Ein Scbnellziig. 

Das ist wabr, 

Icb glaiibe es. 

Es ist split. 

Icb bin miide. 

Icb bin diirstig; bun- 
grig. 

Es ist Zeit abzureisen. 

Das ist uicbt wabr. 

Icb verstand nicbt. 

Wer ist es? 

Was macben Sie? 

Was wollen Sie? 

Wosind Sie? 

Wo ist er? 

Was macht er? 



Una stanza mobigliata. 
La colazione. 
Una colazione. 

La zuppa. 

Arrosto di bue, rosbif. 

La bistecca. 

Del vitello. 

Del castrate. 

Del ma j ale, 

II pesce. 

Delle uova. 

La focaccia. 

II burro, butiro. 

II formaggio. 

La birra. 

II vino d' Oporto. 

II vino di Xeres. 

I sorbetti ; i gelati. 

Una strada ferrata. 

Convoglio celere. 

E vero. 

Lo credo. 

E tardi. 

Sono stracco. 

Ho sete ; bo fame. 

fi ora di partire. 
Cio non e vero. 
Non aveva capito. 
Cbi e? 

Cbe cosa fate? 
Cbe cosa volete? 
Dove siete? 
Dov' §? 
Che cosa fa? 



554 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Where are you going? 
What do you say? 
Did you understand 

me? 
Is dinner ready? 

Is it time to go? 
Where shall we go? 

When shall we set out? 

Are there any letters 

for me? 
Come here. 
Make haste. 
Tell him to come. 

Take care. Stop. 
Not so quick. 
Speak to him. 
Do what I tell you. 

Go away. 

Bring up the carriage. 

Call (wake) me at five 

o'clock. 
Yesterday. 
To-day. 
To-morrow. 
Every day. 
What name do you give 

to that dish? 
Bring me some bread. 



Ouallez-vous? 
Quedites-vous? 
M'avez-vous compris ? 

Le diner est-il pret? 

Est-il temps de partir? 
Ou irons-nous? 

Quand parti rons-nous? 

Y a-t-il des lettres pour 

moi? 
Venez ici. 
Depechez-vous. 
Dites-lui de venir. 

Prenez garde. Arretez 

Pas si vite. 

Parlez-lui. 

Faites ce que je vous 

dis. 
Allez-vous-en. 
Faites avancer la voi- 

ture. 
Reveillez-moi a ciuq 

heures. 
Hier. 

Aujourd'hui. 
Demain. 
Tous les jours. 
Quel nom donnez-vous 

a ce mets? 
Apportez-moi du pain. 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 555 



Wohin gehen Sie? 
Was sagen Sie? 
Haben Sie verstanden? 

1st das Mittagessen 

fertig? 
1st es Zeit abzureisen? 
Wohin sollen wir ge- 
hen? 
Wann sollen wir abrei- 

sen? 
Sind Briefe fiir mich 

da? 
Kommen Sie hier. 
Beeilen Sie sich. 
Sagen Sie ihm, er 

moge kommen. 
Geben Sie Acht. Halt. 
Nicht so schnell. 
Sprechen Sie mit ihm. 
Thun Sie, was ich Ihnen 

sage. 
Gehen Sie weg. 
Lassen Sie den AVagen 

vorfahren. 
Wecken Sie mich um 

fiinf Uhr. 
Gestern. 
Heute. 
Morgen. 
Alle Tage. 
Welchen Namen geben 

Sie diesem GerichteV 
Bringen Sie mir etwas 

Brod. 



Dove andate? 
Che cosa dite? 
Mi avete capito? 

E pronto il pranzo? 

fi or a di partire? 
Dove andremo? 

Quando partiremo? 

Ci sono lettere per me? 

Venite qua. 
Spieciatevi. 
Ditegli che venga. 

Badate. Fermatevi. 

Non COS! presto. 

Parlategli. 

Fate quel che vi dico. 

Andate via. 

Fate venir avanti la 

carrozza. 
Svegliatemi alle cinque. 

leri. 

Oggi. 

Dimani. 

Ogni giorno. 

Come chiamate questa 

pietanza ? 
Portatemi del pane. 



556 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Bring me a glass of 

water. 
How much for wine? 
What is the name of it? 

At what hour shall we 
arrive at X? 

What railway is that? 

Is it more expensive? 
At what hour does the 

steamboat start? 
What is the fare? 

Have you a printed 

tariff? 
Is the road easy to 

find? 
How far is it to X? 

What is the usual 
charge by the day? 

At what hour does it 
start? 

Which is the best hotel 
at X? 

Are the charges mod- 
erate? 

Where is the station 
for X? 

Is this the train to X? 

How soon shall we be 
there? 



Apportez-moi un verre 

d'eau. 
Combien le vin? 
Comment I'appelez- 

vous ? 
A quelle heure arrive- 

rous-nous a X? 

Quel est ce chemin de 
fer? 

Est-ce plus Cher? 

A quelle heure le ba- 
teau a vapeur part-il ? 

Quel est le pwx du pas- 
sage? 

Avez-vous un tarif im- 
prime? 

Trouve-t-on facilement 
le chemin? 

Combien y a-t-il d'ici 
a X? 

Combien donne-t-on or- 
dinairement par jour ? 

A quelle heure part- 
il? 

Quel est le meilleur ho- 
tel a X? 

Y a-t-on bon march^? 

Quest I'embarcadere de 

X? 
Est-ce Ik le train pour 

X? 
Quand arri verons-nous ? 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 557 



Bringen Sie mir ein 

Glas Wasser. 
Wie viel fiir denWein? 
Wie heisst er? 

Um wie viel Uhr wer- 

den wir in X ankom- 

men? 
Welche Eisenbahn ist 

das? 
Ist es theurer? 
Um wie viel Uhr fahrt 

das DampfschifC ab? 
Wie viel betragt das 

Passagiergeld? 
Haben Sie einen ge- 

druckten Tarif? 
Ist der Weg leicht zu 

finden? , 
Wie weit ist es von 

bier nacb X? 
Was bezabt man ge- 

wohnlich fiir den 

Tag? 
Um wie viel Ubr fahrt 

er ab? 
Welches ist der beste 

Gasthof in X? 
Ist es billig dort? 

Wo ist der Bahnhof 

nach X? 
Ist dies der Zug nach X ? 

Wie bald werden wir 
dort sein? 



Recatemi un bicchier 

d'acqua. 
Quanto costa il vino? 
Come si chiama? 

A che ora arriveremo 
noi a X? 

Quale e questa strada 

f errata ? 
E pin caro? 
A che ora parte il ba- 

tello a vapore? 
Quanto costa il tras- 

porto de passeggieri? 
Avete una lista stam- 

pata? 
E la via facile a tro- 

varsi ? 
Quanto distante e X . . 

da qui? 
Quanto si spende al 

giorno di solito? 

A che ora parte? 

Qual ^ il miglior al- 

bergo in X? 
Sono i prezzi equi cola ? 

Dov' e I'imbarcatoio di 

X? 
E quello il traino perX? 

Quando arriveremo? 



558 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Stop, coachman ! we 

wish to get out. 
When must I be ready? 

I wish to see the land- 
lord of the hotel. 

Where is the water- 
closet ? , 

Bring me some fresh 
water. 

I wish to have break- 
fast (supper). 

Give me something to 
eat. 

At what hour do we 
dine? 

Show me your bill of 
fare and wine card. 

Bring me the newspa- 
per. 

Is he ready? 

Which is the way to 
the post-office? 

How much is the post- 
age? 

Send that letter to the 
post. 

Where does the banker 
live? 

I wish to see a physi- 
cian. 

What fee should I give 
him? 



Arretez, cocher ! nous 

voulons descendre. 
A quelle heure faut-il 

etre pret? 
Je desire parler au 

maitre de I'hotel. 
Oil sont les lieux 

d'aisance? 
Apportez-moi de I'eau 

fraiche 
Je desirerais dejeuner 

(souper). 

Donnez-moi quelque 
chose a manger. 

A quelle heure dinons- 
nous? 

Montrez-moi la carte. 

Apportez-moi le jour- 
nal. 

Est-il pret? 

Pourriez-vous m'indi- 
quer la poste? 

Combien pour le port? 

Faites jeter cette lettre 

a la poste. 
Ou y a-t-il un ban- 

quier? 
Je desire voir un me- 

decin. 
Combien faut-il lui 

donner? 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 



559 



Halt, Kutscher ! Wir 
wollen aussteigen. 

Wann muss ich fertig 
sein? 

Ich wiinsche denHerrn 
des Hauses zu sehen. 

Wo ist der Abtritt? 



Fermatevi, vetturino, 
vogliamo discendere. 

A Che ora debbo esser 
pronto ? 

Yorrei parlare al maes- 
tro di casa. 

Dot' e la ritirata? 



Bringen sie frisches 

Wasser. i 

Ich wtinsche das Friih- | 

stlick (das Abendes- 

sen ) . 
Geben Sie mir etwas [ 

zu essen. 
Um wie viel Uhr spei- 

sen wir zu Mittag? 
Zeigen Sie mir den 

Speisezettel, 
Bringen Sie mir die 

Zeitung. I 

Ist er bereit? 
Welches ist der Weg 

zur Post? 

Wie viel betragt das \ 

Porto? I 

Senden Sie diesen ' 

Brief zur Post. 
Wo wohnt ein Ban- 

quier? 
Ich wtinsche einen 

Arzt zu sprechen. 
Wie viel Honorar soil 

ich ihm geben? I 



Portatemi dell' acqua- 

fresca. 
Vorrei far colazione 

(cenare). 

Datemi qualche cosa 

da mangiare. 
A che ora si pranza? 

Mostratemi la lista e 

la nota dei vini. 
Portatemi la gazzetta. 

E egli air ordine? 
Potreste indicarmi il 

cammino che va alia 

posta? 
Quanto costa 11 porto? 

Fate portare questa 
lettera alia posta. 

Dove abita un ban- 
'chiere? 

Desidererei parlare con 
un medico. 

Quanto gli debbo dare? 



560 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Can I have a warm 

bath? 
Bring me some soap. 

Order a carriage for 

me. 
Make a good fire. 

How much have I to 

pay? 
Bring me my account. 

Turn to the right, left, 
straight forward. 

How much is charged 

for admission? 
^Yhat direction must I 

take? 
Can I have dinner here? 

How much? 
Have you nothing bet- 
ter? 
It is fine. 
It is very hot. 
Does it rain? 
It is cold. 
Send for a cab. 

Coachman, drive me to 
the station. 

Where is the baggage- 
room? 



Pourrais-je avoir un 

bain chaud? 
Apportez-moi du savon. 

Faites-moi venir une 

voiture. 
Faites un bon feu. 

Combien dois-je? 

Apportez - moi mon 
compte. 

Prenez a droite, a gau- 
che, marchez tout 
droit. 

Quel est le prix d'en- 
tree? 

Quelle direction faut-il 
que je prenne? 

Pourrais-je y diner? 

Combien? 
N'avez-vous rien de 

meilleur? 
II fait beau. 
II fait tres chaud. 
Pleut-il? 
II fait froid. 
Envoyez chercher un 

fiacre. 
Cocher, conduisez-moi 

a la gare. 

Ou est le bureau de 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 561 



Kami ich ein warmes 

Bad bekommen? 
Bringen Sie mir Seife. 

Bestellen Sie mir eine 

Kutsche. 
Machen Sie ein gutes 

Feuer. 
Wie viel habe ich zu 

bezatilen. 
Briugen Sie mir die 

Recbnung. 
Gehen Sie rechts, links, 

geradeaus. 

Wie hoch ist der Ein- 

trittspreis? 
Welehe Richtung muss 

icb nebmen? 
Kann icb bier zu Mit- 

tag speisen? 
Wie viel? 
Haben Sie nicht etwas 

besser? 
Es ist scbon. 
Es ist sebr heiss. 
Regnet es? 
Es ist kalt. 
Lassen Sie eine 

Droscbke bolen. 
Kutscber, fabren Sie 

micb nacb die Bahn- 

bof. 
Wo ist die Gepackan- 

nabme? 



Potrei avere un bagno 

caldo ? 
Portatemi un po' di 

sapone. 
Ordinatemi una caroz- 

za. 
Fate un buon fuoco. 

Quanto vi debbo? 

Portatemi il mio conto. 

Si Volga a destra, a 
sinistra, vada diritto, 

Quanto costa il bigliet- 

to d'ingresso? 
Qual direzione devo 

prendere? 
Potro avervi il pranzo? 

Quanto? 

Non ne avete di mig- 

liore? 
Fa bel tempo. 
Fa caldissimo. 
Piove? 
Fa freddo. 
Fate cercare un fiacre. 

Cocchiere, conducete- 
mi alia stazione. 

Dov'e I'ufficio deglief- 
feti? 



562 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Please give me two 
first-class tickets to 
X. 

Here they are. 

What do they cost? 

At what hour is supper 

ready. 
That's very dear. 
Where are our rooms? 

Are there any letters 
for Mr. N., poste re- 
stante? 

Here is my passport. 

Is breakfast ready? 

Give me a drink. 

What o'clock is it? 
What kind of weather 

is it? 
How do you do? 

Very well, I thank you. 

Have you a room to 
let? 



Deux billets de pre- 
miere classe pour X, 
s'il vous plait. 

Voila, monsieur. 

Combien ces billets? 

A quelle heure soupe- 

t-on? 
C'est bien cher. 
Ou sont nos chambres? 

Y a-t-il des lettres poste 
restante pour Mon- 
sieur N.? 

Voici mon passeport. 

Le dejeuner est-il ser- 
vi? 

Donnez-moi a boire. 

Quelle heure est-il? 
Quel temps fait-il? 

Comment vous portez- 

vous? 
Fort bien, je vous re- 

mercie. 
Auriez-vous une cham- 

bre a me louer? 



FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 563 



Ich bitte um zwei Bil- 
lete erster Klasse 
nach X. 

Hier sind sie. 

Wie Tiel kosten sie? 

Um wie viel Uhr ist das 
Abendessen fertig? 

Das ist sehr theuer. 

Wo sind unsere Zim- 
mer? 

Sind Briefe angekom- 
men fiir Herrn N.? 

Hier ist mein Pass. 

Ist das Fruhstiiek fer- 
tig? 

Geben Sie mir zu trin- 
ken. 

Wie viel Uhr ist es ? 

Wie ist das Wetter? 

Wie befinden Sie sich? 

Sehr wohl, ich danke 

Ihnen. 
Haben Sie ein Zimmer 

zu vermiethen? 



Due biglietti di prima 
classe per X, se vi 
pi ace, 

Ecco, signore. 

Quanto avete pagato 
perquesti biglietti? 

A che ora si cena? 

E carissimo. 

Dove sono le nostre ca- 

mere? 
Vi sono lettere per il 

Signor N. posta re- 

stante? 
Ecco il mio passaporto. 
£ in tavola la cola- 

zione? 
Datemi da here. 

Che ora e? 
Che tempo fa? 

Come sta? 

Benissimo, la ringrazio. 

Avrebbe una camera da 
affittare? 



TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHC CODE. 



Before maJcing use of the iDords in this Code, it 
is essential that intending users should satisfy 
themselves that the friends tvithtchom they intend 
to correspond have in their possession the same 
edition of the work as the one about to he used. 

This Code is intended as a means of reducing 
the expense of telegraphing. A single word means 
a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should be 
left with the person at home to whom telegrams 
would naturally be sent (whose name and address 
should be registered at the local telegraph-office). 
The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form 
a personal Code between two persons, who may 
agree upon certain sentences, and write them care- 
fully in their two books. This Code has been made 
up expressly for The Complete Pocket Guide. 

Almond Telegraph to . 

Almost Telegraph as soon as possible. 

Aloes Telegraph your reply. 

Aloft Telegraph and keep us well posted. 

Aloof Inform us by telegraph. 

Aloud Telegraph us what to do. 

Air Telegraph if you do not understand our 

despatch. 
Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please 

repeat. 
Akin We cannot understand the word in your 

telegram. Please repeat it. 

Alack .. The word you do not understand is . 

Alarm Your despatch received. 

Agog Answer my telegram of . 

Agony Answer immediately by telegraph. 

Aided Answer by telegraph at . 

Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply. 



566 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 

Alum Have you received our telegram of ? 

Amaze Have received your telegram of . 

Amber If you wish to communicate with me by 

telegraph, do so at , before . 

Amboy Please advise by telegraph. 

Amen Get despatch at telegraph office. 

Amical Before despatch received, we had . 

Amidst Have you sent us a despatch to-day? 

Amity If we don't telegraph you by , you may 

conclude . 

Ample If you don't telegraph us by , we shall 

Amplify What is reason of delay in reply to our 

telegram? 
Amuse 

Analogy 

Anatomy 

Ancestor 

Anchor 

Ancient 

Andiron 

Anew 

Angel 

Angry 

Animal 

Animate 

Ankle 

Annals 

Annex 

Annul 

Appeal 

Apply 

Apron 

Baby Your letter of is received. 



TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 5fi7 

Back Your letter is received. 

Bacon Send letters here until the . 

Badly Send letters to until the . 

Backstay Send letters care of . 

Badger We write you . 

Baffle We wrote you last mail. 

^ Bag Will write you at once. 

Bail Full information by to-day's mail. 

Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's mail. 

Balcony Letter was sent. 

Bald Answer by mail. 

Ballad No letter to-day; telegraph contents if im- 
portant. 

Balm Have received no letters since . 

Banjo Forward no letters after . 

Bandit We forwarded letters to on the . 

Banner Your letter of received and agreed to. 

Banquet Your letter of received and answered. 

Baron All matter to date has been forwarded. 

Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us? 

Beadle Await our letter. 

Beast We have advices which, in our opinion, may 

cause your return to . Where will a 

letter soonest reach you? 

Beauty We have written you fully on the subject. 

Beckon What is reason of delay in replying to our 

letter? 

Bed 

Beef 

Befog 

Beggar 

Betide 

Bestow 

Betray 

Biceps 

Birch 

Blast 

Behead 

Behold 

Belay 

Bench 



568 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 

Belt 

Bias 

Biped 

Birthday 

Bishop 

Bivalve 

Blackleg 

Blaze 

Cabin We shall return at once by . 

Caboose We shall return at once by the — — . 

Cadet We shall sail for home on the — — . 

Cage We sail . 

Cake When does sail? 

Calico We think it best to delay departure. 

Calm We think it best to delay departure until 

. If no further advice, shall leave on 

that day for . 

Caloric Cannot leave . 

Cameo Cannot leave until . 

Camp Cannot leave . W'ill sail by next steamer. 

Canal Have missed steamer. 

Canary Have missed steamer; will sail by next. 

Candy When does leave? 

Cane Steamer sails on . 

Cannon Sailing postponed until . 

Canopy Tickets lost; send duplicates. 

Canteen Arrived all well ; pleasant passage. Tell . 

Canvass Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Tell- — . 

Caper Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Shall 

proceed to . 

Caprice Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Shall 

proceed to . 

Capsize Arrived all well; have written. 

Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to . 

Captain Has arrived? 

Caramel He arrived on . 

Caravan He has not arrived. 

Carbon Return at once. 

Card Return as .soon as possible. 



TRAEVLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 569 
Cardinal Return at once. Important matters demand 

your presence here. 
Careworn Things look blue. Unless strong reasons to 

the contrary, should like to have you 

shorten your trip. 

Cargo You need not return. 

Carmine You need not return until . 

Catnip You must be here by the . 

Caxton Impossible to return until . 

Cement Arrange for our return. 

Central Cannot return unless . 

Chafe If agreeable, will remain . 

Chair When will you return? 

Chancel When do you expect to be here? 

Chaos We shall be with you by the ■ . 

Chapter , Secure passage by this steamer. 

Charcoal We shall come by the train leaving at . 

Chariot We shall arrive at this station by train due 

at . 

Charity 

Charm 

Cherish ., 

Cider 

Cimeter . 

Cipher 

Circuit 

Citadel 

Clack 

Coil 

Colic 

Confront 

Dabble Send cable transfer for , through . 

Dabster Send me new credit for , through . 

Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through . 



570 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 



Dagger . .. 


....£5 Darkey £55 Debility .. 


£125 


Dainty .. 


.... 10 Dashed 60 Debut 


..ISO 


Dale 


.... 15 Daub 65 Decamp ... 


..175 


Dally .... 


.... 20 Daylight .... 70 Decay .... 


..200 


Damper . 


.... 25 Daytime 75 Deceit .... 


..250 


Dance ... 


.... 30 Deacon 80 Decide .... 


..300 


Dandy . . 


.... 35 Deadeye 85 Decimal .. 


..400 


Dangling 


.... 40 Deaf 90 Declare ... 


..500 


Daring . . 


.... 45 Debased 95 




Dark 


.... 50 Debatable ...100 




Decrease ... 


..Remit at once. 




Deem 


..We have remitted. 




Deface 


..Have you forwarded remittance? 

..We cannot remit. 

..We cannot remit more than . 




Defeat 




Defection ... 




Defence .... 


..We send draft by first mail. 




Defiance 


..Will honor draft. 




Deform 






Defrayed ... 


..Will you honor my draft? 




Deftly 


..Will you honor my draft to amount of 


? 


Delve 


..Please prepay passage per . 




Demerit .... 


..Please prepay passage and telegraph 
of steamer. 


name 


Democrat ... 


..Have prepaid your passage per , sa 

on . 


iling 


Demon 


..Are without funds; send money to 




Dentist 




Dunce 






Damask 






Dastard — 






Daughter ... 






Debris 






Destiny .... 
Deck 






Denizen 




Denote 






Dense 






Depose 






Depress 






Derange .... 
Device 







TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 571 

Dilute 

Disclose 

Distress 

Divan 

Dock 

Dome 

Dowdy 

Drab 

Drama 

Drill 

Dress 

Drum 

Eagle In consequence illness of , we are de- 
tained here. Send letters here until the . 

Earth is better,and we hope to leave on the . 

East is seriously ill; will advise you again. 

Ebony .= is sick, but not dangerously. 

Echo •• is improving slowly. 

Edible is very much better; no need of your 

returning. 

Editor is no better. Would come home at once. 

Educate is in a critical condition. 

Efface is rapidly sinking. 

Effort died last night. 

Egress died yesterday. 

Elapse died to-day. 

Elaborate Please express our sympathy. 

Electric We are all well, and there is no need of 

your returning. 

Elevate Hope all are well. 

Enchant All are well. 

Elixir 

Elongate 



572 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 

Elope 

Eluded 

Empire 

Emulate 

Endow 

Engine 

Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as 

it should be, and all are well. 

Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well. 

Galaxy We propose extending tour. 

Gallant We propose extending tour to . If all 

right, telegraph. 

Game When will you be in ? 

Garden We expect to reach by . 

Garrison Will meet you at . 

Gastric We wish to know where you can be met 

between now and . 

Gazette Do as you think best. 

Gender Can you arrange? 

Genial We can arrange. 

Geyser We cannot arrange. 

Ghost Everything satisfactorily arranged. 

Gimlet We think it advisable to 

Ginger We think well of , 

Girlhood \Ve do not think well of . 

Gladden Act according to your own judgment. 

Glancing How is business? 

Glass Business is good. Everything all right. 

Gleam Anything the matter? No word from you 

by mail or wire. 

Glide Send us word at once. 

Glimmer Xothing the matter; all well. Have written. 

Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me. 

Glory Where is ? 

Glue Do you know address of ? 

Goblin Address of party is . 

Goddess Address cannot be given. 

Gondola When did you send ? 

Goodness Have you done so? 

Gotham Have you done anything? 

Gothic Keep this confidential. 



TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 573 



Gouge — 

Gout 

Govern .. 
Gown — 

Grab 

Grade .... 
Gradual .. 
Grammar 
Greedy ... 

Grief 

Grocer ... 

Growl 

Grain .... 
Guard .... 



INDEX. 



Abbeville, 185 

Abbotsford, 101 
Aberdeen, 89 
Abergele, 33 
Abo, 521 
Adelsberg, 295 
^tna. Mount, 441 
Agbadoe, 9 
Agram, 295 
Ahrweiler, 253 
Ailsa Craig, 63 
Airolo, 326 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 

248 
Aix-les-Bains, 502 
Alatri, 425 
Albacete, 473 
Albano, 420 • 
Alessandria, 351 
Algeciras, 481 
Alicante, 472 
Alloway, 62 
Alpnach, 327 
Althorp Park, 125 
Altona, 271 
Altorf, 325 
Amalfi, 439 
Ambleside, 48 
Amboise, 221 
Ambras, 303 
Amiens, 184 
Amsteg, 325 
Amsterdam, 242 
Anagni, 425 
Anago, Lake, 431 
Ancona, 376 
Andermatt, 326 
Andernach, 254 
Anglesea, 29 
Angouleme, 501 
Annan, 59 



Annesley, 118 
Antibes, 456 
Antwerp, 237 
Aosta, 339 
Appian Way, 416 
Aqua Acetosa, 419 
Aranjuez, 486 
Arbroath, 89 
Arcachon, 500 
Ardchattan, 79 
Ardrishaig, 84 
Arenfels, 254 
Arezzo, 387 
Ariccia, 421 
Aries, 458 
Arnhem, 244 
Arona, 345 
Arras, 185 
Assissi, 388 
Assmannshausen. 
261 
Athlone, 24 
Auburn, 24 
Augsburg, 305 
Automobiling, 

xxvii. 
Avernus, Lake, 432 
Avignon, 460 
Avoca, Vale of, 22 
Awe, Loch, 78 
Ayr, 61 

Bacharach, 260 
Badajos, 495 
Baden-Baden, 312 
Baggage, xiii. 
Baia, 433 
Baireuth, 309 
Bakewell, 120 
Balearic Isles, 464 
Ballater, 90 
Balmoral, 90 



Balquhidder, 78 
Bamberg, 309 
Banavie, 81 
Bangor, 30 
Bannockburn, 87 
Barbizon, 220 
Barcelona, 464 
Basle, 315 
Bassenthwaite, S5 
Bath, 174 
Battle Abbey, 171 
Baveno, 345 
Bavonne, 494 
Baziasch, 293 
Bedford, 137 
Belcaro, 390 
Belfast, 27 
Belgium, 225 
Belgrade, 293 
Bellaggio, 347 
Bellinzona, 321 
Belvoir Castle, 116 
Ben Ledi, 11 
Ben Lomond, 74 
Ben Venue, 76 
Bergamo, 353 
Bergen, 511 
Berlin, 274 
Bernardino Pass, 

321 
Berne, 330 
Bernese Oberland, 

285 
Bernina Pass, 322 
Besangon, 462 
Beverley, 111 
Biarritz, 494 
Biasca, 
Bienne, 336 
Bingen, 262 
Birkenhead, 43 



57G 



INDEX 



Birmingham, 121 

Black Forest, 312 

Blarnev Castle, 4 

Blois, 220 

Blue Grotto, 437 

Bologna, 370 

Bonn, 250 

Boppard, 259 

Bordeaux, 499 

Bordighera, 452 

Borromean Isles, 

345 

Boston, 116 

Bothwell, n 

Bougival, 217 

Boulogne, 179 

Bowness, 47 

Bozen, 304 

Bracciano, 423 

Bradford, 112 

Braemar, 90 

Bray, 22 

Bremen, 271 

Brenner Pass, 304 

Brescia, 354 

Brest, 187 

Brieg, 341 
Brienz, Zll 
Brighton, 171 
Brindisi, 111 
Bristol, 174 
Britannia Bridge, ' 
29 
Broek, 
Bruck, 295 
Bruges, 233 
Briinig Pass, 327 
Brunswick, 269 
Brussels, 229 
Bucharest, 294 
Budapest, 291 
Burgos, 493 
Bute, 84 
Buttermere, 52 
Buxton, 120 
Cadenabbia, 347 
Cadiz, 481 



Caen, 185 
Caernarvon, 32 
Calais, 179 
Caledonian Canal, 
81 
Callander, 11 
Camaldoli, 432 
Cambridge, 135 
Campagna, The, 

417 
Cannes, 456 
Cannstadt, 306 
Canossa, 374 
Canterbury, 177 
Capellen, 258 
Capri, 437 
Capua, 425 
Cardiff, 175 
Cardross, 71 
Carlisle, 57 
Carlsbad, 282 
Carlsruhe, 312 
Carrara, 449 
Caserta, 436 
Cashel, 15 
Cassel, 268 
Cassino, 425 
Castellamare, 436 
Castel Gandolfo,420 
Catania, 441 
Caub, 260 
Cauterets, 498 
Cawdor Castle, 83 
Ceprano, 425 
Certosa, La, 351, 372 
Cesena, 376 
Cette, 464 
Chalons, 223 
Chambord, 321 
Chamounix, 336,337 
Chantilly, 218 
Charleroi, 227 
Charlottenburg, 

Chartres, 187 
Chateau Thierry, 
222 



Chatham,177 
Chatillon, 220 
Chatsworth, 119 
Chaumont, 221 
Chaudfontaine,228 
Chenonceaux, 221 
Cherbourg, 186 
Chester, 35 
Chiavenna, 321 
Chillon, 335 
Chioggia, 368 
Chiselhurst, 176 
Chiswick, 171 
Christiania, 508 
Civita Vecchia, 445 
Clarens, 235 
Cloyne, S 
Coblence, 255 
Coburg, 271 
Coimbra, 496 
Coire, 320 
Colchester, 171 
Col de Balme, ZZ1 
Coleraine, 26 
Colico, 321, 347 
Cologne, 245 
Como, 346, 347 

Compiegne, 219 

Coniston Lake, 49 

Connemara, 25 

Constance, 317 

Consuls, 541 

Conway, 31 

Copenhagen, 503 

Coppet, 334 

Corra Linn, 12 

Cordova, 474 

Cork, 3 

Corniche Road, 451 

Correggio, 374 

Cortona, 388 

Coventry, 123 

Cowes, 173 

Cracow, 294 

Cremona, 357 

Cronstadt, 521 

Crystal Palace, 169 



INDEX 



577 



Culloden, 83 
Cumse, 438 
Darmstadt, 311 
Deauviile, ISO 
Delft, 240 
Denmark, 503 
Derby, 118 
Derbyshire, Teak 

of, 118 
Derwentwater, 55 
Dieppe, 180 
Dijon, 221 
Dinan, 186 
Domo d'Ossola, 344 
Douai, ?.7i 
Dover, 177 
Drachenfels, 251 
Doncaster, 114 
Dresden, 278 
Drogheda, 22 
Drontheim, 511 
Dryburgh Abbey, 

101 
Dublin, 16 
Dulwich. 1C9 
Dumbarton, 70 
Dumfries, 59 
Dunblane, 87 
Dundee, 88 
Dunkeld, 88 
Dunoon, 85 
Dunottar Castle, 88 
Durham, 103 
Diisseldorf, 245 
Eastbourne, 171 
Eaton Hall, 39 
Eaux-Bonnes, 498 
Eaux-Chaudes, 498 
Ecclefechan, 58 
Eddystone Light, 

176 
Edenhall, 57 
Edinburgh, 90 
Ehrenbreitstein, 

256 
Ehrenfels, 262 
Eisenach, 271 



Elsinore, 506 
Elstow, 137 
Eltville, 263 
Ely, 134 
Emmerich, 244 
Ems, 256 
Engadine, 321 
Enghien, 218 
England, 35 
Erfurt, 272 
Ermononville, 219 
! Escurial, 490 
1 Esthwaite, 46 
Eton, 168 
Etretat, 181 
Evora, 497 
Evreux, 185 
Exeter, 176 
Faenza, Z76 
Faro, 497 
Fecamp, 181 
Ferentino, 425 
Ferney, 333 
Ferrara, 369 
Fiesole, 387 
Florence, 378 
Fliielen, 325 
Foggia, 424 
Folkestone, 177 
Foligno, 389 
Fontainebleau, 219 
Forli, 370 
Fort Augustus, 82 
Fountains Abbey, 

106 
France, Northern, 

179 
France, Souther 

454 
Frankfort, 266 
Franzensbad, 282 
Frascati, 421 
Freiburg, 313, 332 
Frejus, 456 
Frosinone, 425 
Frutigen, 330 
Fulda, 271 



Furca Pass, 326 
Furness Abbey, 44 
Fiirstenberg, 261 
Galway, 24 
Garda, Lake of, 

348, 354 
Gastein, 297 
Gemmi Pass, 330 
Geneva, 332 
Genoa, 449 
Genzano, 421 
Germany, 245 
Gerona, 464 
Ghent, 234 
Giants' Causeway, 
26 
Gibraltar, 480 
Giessbach, 328 
Girgenti, 445 
Glamis Castle, 89 
Glasgow, 64 
Glastonbury, 175 
Glen Fruin, 71 
Corner Grat, 295 
Gotha, 271 
Gothenburg, 508 
Grange, 44 
Granada, 476 
Granville, 186 
Grasmere, 53 
Gratz, 295 
Greenock, 71 
Greenwich, 169 
Grimsel Pass, 326 
Grindelwald, 328 
Grotta Ferrara, 422 
Haarlem, 242 
Hague, The, 240 
Hal, 225 
Halle, 273 
Hamburg, 270 
Hamilton, 72 
Hammerfest, 512 
Hammerstein, 254 
Hampstead, 169 
Hampton Court, 

16S 



INDEX 



Hanover, 269 
Harrogate, 106 
Harrow, 170 
Hastings, 171 
Havre, 180 
Haworth, 112 
Heidelberg, 310 
Helensburgh, 71 
Helsingfors, 521 
Helvellyn, 51 
Herculaneum, 434 
Highgate, 169 
Highlands, Scot- 
tish, 1Z 
Holland, 239 
Holyhead, 29 
Homburg, 267 
Hotels, xxi 
Honfleur, 181 
Hull, 111 
Hyeres, 456 
Innsbruck, 303 
Interlaken, 328 
Inverary, 75 
Inverness, 83 
Inversnaid, 75 
lona, 80 
Ipswich, 137 
Ireland, 1 
Iron Gates, 293 
Irongray, 60 
Ischia, 438 
Ischi, 297 
Iseo, 34S 
Isola Bella, 345 
Italy, 343 
Jerez, 482 
Johannisberg, 263 
Jungfrau, 329 
Kandersteg, 330 
Kasan Defile, 293 
Katrine, Loch, 76 
Kelheim, 309 
Kenilworth, 124 
Keswick, 54 
Kew, 168 
Kidderminster, 122 



Killarney, 6, 8 
Kingstown, 23 
Komorn, 291 
Konigsstuhl, 258, 

310 
Konigswinter, 251 
Konigstein, 281 
Kreuznach, 262 
Laach, 254 
Laeken, 232 
Lahneck, 258 
Laibach, 295 
Lanark, 72 
Lausanne, 332 
Lauterbrunnen, 

329 
Lido, 368 
Leamington, 153 
Lecco, 347 
Leeds, 111 
Leghorn, 445 
Leipsic, 272 
Leith, 98 
Lemberg, 294 
Lerida, 470 
Lerins, Isles of, 456 
Letter of Credit, 

viii. 
Leuk, Baths of, 330 
Locarno, 345 
Leyden, 241 
Liege, 227 
Lille, 226 
Limerick, 15 
Lincoln, 115 
Linkoping, 507 
Linlithgow, 87 
Linz, 253, 296 
Lisbon, 495 
Lisieux, 185 
Liverpool, 40, xv 
Llandaff, 175 
Locarno, 345 
Lochy Loch, 82 
Lodore, 54 
Lomond, Loch, IZ 
London, 141 



Londonderry, 27 
Lorch, 261 
Louvain, 232 
Lucca, 448 
Lucerne, 323 
Lugano, 346 
Luino, 346 
Lund, 507 
Lungara, 4C5 
Lurlei, 260 
Luxembourg, 228 
Lyons, 461 
Macon, 222 
Madrid, 486 
Magdenburg, 270 
Maggiore, Lake, 

345 
Majorca, 467 
Malaga, 479 
Malahide, 22 
Malamocco, 368 
Malines, 236 
Malmaison, 217 
Malmo, 507 
Manchester, 113 
Mannheim, 310 
Mantes, 184 
Mantua, 357 
Marburg, 268 
Margate, 171 
Marino, 422 
Marksburg, 259 
Marly, 217 
Marseilles, 457 
Martigny, 336 
Matlock Bath, 120 
Matterhorn, 340 
Maybole, 62 
Mauchline, 61 
Mayence, 264 
Maynooth, 24 
Meaux, 222 
Mechlin, 236 
Meiringen, 327 
Melrose, 99 
Menaggio, 346 
Menai Bridge, 30 



INDEX 



oTd 



Mentone, 454 
Meran, 304 
Mer de Glace, 337 
Messina, 440 
Metz, 263 
Meudon, 220 
Milan, 348 
Minorca, 468 
Miramar, 295 
Modena, 372 
Monaco, 456 
Money, xv. 
Monreale, 444 
Mons, 225 
Monserrat, 467 
Mont Blanc, 338 
Monte Cenis, 343 
Monte Rosa, 340. 
Montmorency, 218 
Montpellier, 464 
Morat Lake, 336 
Moscow, 526 
Moselle River, 257 
Mouse Tower, 262 
Mt. St. Michel, 186 
Munich, 298 
Murrano, 368 
Miirren, 329 
Nairn, 83 
Namur, 227 
Nancy, 223 
Naples, 424 
Narbonne, 464 
Nemi Lake, 367 
Neuchatel, 335 
Neuwied, 254 
Newark, 116 
Newcastle, 103 
Newmarket, 137 
Nice, 455 
Niederwald, 262 
Niederwerth, 255 
Nijni-Novgorod, 

528 
Nimes, 459 
Nisidk, 431 
Xonnenwerth, 224 



■ Northampton, 138 I 

Norway, 508 I 

Norwich, 136 ' 

Nottingham, 117 ' 

Novara, 353 

Nuremberg, 306 
; Nyon, 334 
I Oban, 77,79 
! Ober-Ammergau, 
I 302 

I Oberlahnstein,258 

Oberwesel, 260 

Ocean Voyage, vii. 

Odessa, 529 

Oporto, 497 

Orange, 461 

Orleans, 220 

Orsova, 293 
i Orta, 347 
i Orvieto, 388 

Ostend, 2Z2 

Ostia, 423 
[ Otranto, 377 ! 

Oxford, 138 

Padua, 358 | 

Passtum, 438 ! 

Palermo, 443 j 

; Palestrina, 423 i 

! Palma, 467 i 

! Paris, 187 

Parma, 373 : 

Passports, viii. ! 

Patterdale, 51 

Pau, 498 

Pavia, 351 

Paysley, ^Z 

Perpignan, 464 

Perth, 87 

Perugia, 388 j 

Pesaro, 376 

Peschiera, 348, 354 

Pesth, 291 i 

Peterborough, 133 

Pfalz, 260 
j Piacenza, 357 j 

Pierrefonds, 219 
I Pillnitz, 280 I 



Potsdam, 278 
Pozzuoli, 432 
Prague, 281 
Presburg, 291 
Preston, 43 
Procida, 438 
Putney,171 
Queenstown, 2 
Ragatz, 319 
Pisa, 446 
Pistoja, 377 
Plymouth, 176 
Poitiers, 501 
Pompeii, 435 
Pontresina, 322 
Port Mahon, 468 
Portrush, 26 
Portsmouth, 172 
Portugal, 495 
Posilippo, 431 
Railways, xvii. 
Ramsgate, 171 
Rapperschwyl, 319 
Ravello, 439 
Ratisbon, 308 
Ravenna, 374 
Reggio, 374, 440 
Remagen, 253 
Renfrew, 70 
Rheims, 222 
Rheineck, 254 
Rheinfels, 259 
Rheinstein, 261 
Rhense, 259 
Rhine, 250 
Rhyl, 33 

Rhone Glacier, 326- 
Rhotesey, 84 
Richmond, 168 
Righi, The, 324 
Rimini, 376 
Ripon, 105 
Riva, 348 
Rochester, 176 
Rolandseck, 252 
Rome, 390 
Roslin, 99 



580 



INDEX 



Rothesay, 84 
Rotterdam, 239 
Roubaix, 226 
Rouen, 181 
Roveredo, 304, 357 
Rovigo, 369 
Rowardennan, 74 
Riidesheim, 263 
Rueil, 217 
Rugby, 133 
Russia, 521 
Rydal, 52 
Ryde, 174 
Saguntum, 471 
St. Albans, 170 
St. Andrews, 89 
St. Bernard Pass, 

339 
St. Cloud, 216 
St. Denis, 218 
St. Germain, 217 
St. Goar, 259 
St. Gothard Pass, 

323 
St. Malo, 186 
St. Maurice, 336 
St. Moritz, 322 
St. Petersburg, 522 
St. Quentin, 225 
St. TheodulePass, 

295 
Salerno, 438 
Salisbury, 172 
Salzburg, 296 
Salzkammergut, 

297 
San Marino, 376 
San Luzzaro, 268 
San Remo, 452 
San Sebastian, 494 
Santarem, 495 
Saragossa, 468 
Savona, 452 
Saxon Switzer- 
land, 280 
Saxon-les-Bains, 

340 



Scarborough, 110 
Sceaux, 220 
Schaffhausen, 316 
Scheveningen, 241 
Schiedam, 240 
Schonbrunn, 288 
Scotland, 59 
Sebastopol, 529 
Sedan, 223 
Semmering Pass, 

295,344 
Servia, 293 
Seville, 482 
Sevres, 216 
Sheffield, 114 , 

Sicily, 439 i 

Siena, 389 
Simplon Pass, 340 
Sion, 340 
Solfatara, 432 
Solferino, 354 
Sorrento, 437 
Southampton, 172 
Spa, 228 I 

Spain, 405 | 

Spezia, La, 449 
Spiez, 330 ■ 

Spires, 311 
Spliigen Pass, 

319-320 
Staffa, 80 
Stafford, 122 
Stahleck, 231 
Staubbach, 329 
Steamships, ix. 
Stirling, 85 
Stockholm, 513 
Stolzenfels, 258 
Stratsbourg, 312 
Stratford-on- 

Avon, 129 
Stresa, 345 
Stuttgart, 305 | 

Subiaco, 423 i 

Sweden, 513 
Switzerland, 315 
Syracuse, 442 | 



Taormina, 441 
Taranto, 377 
Tarascon, 460 
Tarbet, 74 
Tarragona, 470 
Temesvar, 294 
Teplitz, 283 
Terni, 389 
Thrasymene Lake, 

388 
Throndhjem, 511 
Thun, Lake of, 330 
Tivoli, 422 
Toledo, 491 
Torcellc, 369 
Torquay, 176 
Torre dei Schiavi, 

420 
Tortosa, 471 
Toulon, 456 
Toulouse, 500 
Tours, 221 
Traun See, 297 
Trent, 257 
Treves, 257 
Trieste, 295 
Trossachs, The, 76 
Trouville, 180 
Toul, 223 
Tunbridge Wells, 

172 
Turin, 352 
Tusculum, 421 
Tyrol, 302 
Ullswater, 51 
Ulm, 305 
Upsala, 519 
Urbino, 376 
Utrecht, 244 
Valence, 461 
Valencia, 471 
Valenciennes, 225 
Valladolid, 492 
Vallombrosa, 387 
Vaucluse, 460' 
Velletri, 425 
Venice, 360 



Vennachar, Loch, 

n 

Verona, 354 
Versailles, 213 
Vesuvius, 434 
Vevey, 235 
Via Mala, 320 
Vicenza, 358 
Vichy, 501 
Vienna, 250 
Vienne, 283 
Wales, 29 
Walhalla, The, 309 



INDEX 

Wallenstadt, 

Lake, 319 

Wartburg, 271 
Warwick, 126 
Waterford, 15 
Waterloo, 232 
Weimar, 272 
W^ells, 175 
Whitby, 111 
Wiesbaden, 268 
Wight, Isle of, 173 
Wildbad, Gastein, 
297 



581 

Wilhelmshohe, 269 
Winchester, 173 
Windermere, 47, 48 
Windsor, 167 
Worcester, 122 
Worms, 311 
Wiirzburg, 309 
York, 106 
Yverdon, 335 
Zaandam, 243 
Zermatt, 326, 339 ' 
Zurich, 317 



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